Planting A Lemon Tree

How to plant and grow lemons

Lemon trees make an excellent addition to almost every backyard and if you get the growing process right, you’re ensured a regular, plentiful crop. The good news? It’s easier than you think to grow your own lemons – great news for all the foodies out there!

Lemon tree varieties

The most common varieties grown in Australia are Eureka, Lisbon and Meyer. Eureka produces its main crop in winter with smaller crops in spring and summer. Eureka lemons have relatively few seeds and the tree is virtually thornless growing to around four metres in height.
Lisbon is thornier and produces its main crop in winter and tends to be more cold tolerant. It grows around three to four metres tall.
Meyers has a milder, less acidic flavour with a smooth, thin rind. Its main crop is produced in winter but it can crop continuously throughout the year. It’s a small tree growing to around two metres in height, making it the ideal lemon tree to grow in a pot.

How to grow a lemon tree

Climate

The preferred climate depends on the variety of lemon, however most do well in warm climates. They tolerate drought but are sensitive to frost.

Aspect

Lemon trees require a position in full sunlight that is protected from winds and frost. If you’re growing a lemon tree in a cooler climate, plant it close to a brick wall so it can utilise the radiating heat.

Soil

Lemon trees can tolerate a range of different soils but they mostly prefer slightly acidic, well-drained soil.

Planting

You can plant lemon trees at any time of year in warmer climates, as long as you water regularly. In cold regions plant in spring to protect it from late frosts.

Citrus will thrive in large pots – choose one that is 50cm in diameter or more, with plenty of drainage holes, and fill with a premium quality potting mix. It’s a great idea to stand your pot on a trolley so you can easily move the pot to a sunnier or more protected position with the changing seasons.

If you’re planting a lemon tree in the garden, start by digging a hole twice a wide and as deep as the pot your citrus comes in. Remove it from the pot and inspect the roots, untangling any that appear to be circling around or those that are tightly packed into the shape of the pot. Plant so that the original soil level in the pot is level with your garden soil. Backfill the hole with the removed crumbled soil, and work compost or well-rotted cow manure into the top 10cm of soil. Add a mulch of straw to the soil surface, but keep this away from the trunk. Water immediately after planting and from then on keep the soil slightly moist.

Water

Lemons grow best in soils that are moist but not soggy. Water your tree every seven to 10 days during the summer, providing it with 4 to 6 inches of water each month. Allow the soil around mature trees to partially dry between waterings. Overwatered lemon trees may suffer from crown and root rots, while those not watered enough frequently shed blossoms and don’t produce as much fruit.

Feeding

Citrus produce loads of fruit! All that flowering and fruiting is a big consumer of energy so make sure you feed up your lemon tree to ensure further crops. You can tell if your tree is undernourished by poor stunted growth or yellowing leaves. Feed twice a year with citrus food, once in February and again in August. Follow the directions on the packet and water the soil well both before and after applying the fertiliser.

How to prune lemon trees

Pruning lemon trees is important for growing healthier and more plentiful fruit.

It’s best to prune your lemon tree from late winter to early spring, right after harvest. Young trees should be pruned to establish a good shape, remove any sprouts or weak limbs so the plant can focus on growing a strong canopy.

When to harvest your lemons

Lemon trees generally take around two to three years to bear fruit and harvesting depends on the variety of plant. Eurekas produce fruit two to three time a year while Lisbons fruit once a year.

Lemons are ready to harvest when they have developed full colour and flavour. Harvest lemons when their peels are yellow or only a green tinge, with a slightly glossy appearance. The longer the fruit stays on the tree the sweeter it will become so some suggest picking and tasting your fruit to determine how the crop is developing.

To pick lemons, use the twist, tilt and snap method. Take the entire fruit in your hand and twist it gently, tilting and pulling away until it breaks free.

How to propagate a lemon tree

To propagate a lemon tree it’s best to take a cutting in late spring or early summer. Choose a 15 centimetre piece of a healthy young branch without fruit or flowers and at least two to three nodes at the base. Us a non-serrated, sanitised knife to cut the stem at a 90-degree angle. Wrap cuttings in a moist paper towel to prevent dehydration.

Remove bottom leaves so the cutting has only three or so leaves at the top and dust the bottom with a hormone-based rooting powder. Plant the cutting in a large, well-draining pot with seed starter mix and cover it with a large clear plastic bag to create a warm, humid environment. Use chopsticks, wire or dowel to keep the bag from resting on the cutting. Keep the soil moist.

Once roots develop, remove the plastic covering. After a few days move the cutting outside in a sheltered location. Once the roots of the plant nearly fill its pot its time to plant it in a larger pot or garden.

Pests and disease

Scale insect: Found on stems and leaves, they have a waxy brown shell. Spray these sap-sucking insects with organic eco oil.

Leaf Miner: Tiny burrowing mites causing silvery trails and twisted leaves. They attack only fresh new leaves, so spray the new growth once a fortnight with eco oil until the leaves have matured and turned a dark green colour.

Stink bugs: May appear in large numbers from October. Knock them off the branches and squish them underfoot, but wear protective goggles as then bugs can squirt a painful liquid into your eyes.

Sooty mould: A black crusty coating on the leaves indicating the presence of a sap-sucking insect lurking higher up, such as aphids, scale or mealybugs. Treat the insect above and the sooty mould will clear up by itself. The mould is not harmful, it just looks yucky.

As long as you provide their basic needs, growing lemons can be a very rewarding experience. Outdoors Lemons are more cold-sensitive than all other citrus trees. Due to this cold sensitivity, lemon trees should be planted near the south side of the home. Lemon trees need protection from frost. Growing them near the house should help with this. Lemon trees also require full sunlight for adequate growth. While lemon trees can tolerate a range of soils, including poor soil, most prefer well-drained, slightly acidic soil. Lemon trees should be set slightly higher than ground. Therefore, dig a hole somewhat shallower than the length of the root ball. Place the tree in the hole and replace soil, tamping firmly as you go. Water sufficiently and add some mulch to help retain moisture. Lemon trees require deep watering once weekly. If necessary, pruning may be done to maintain their shape and height. Indoors Lemons can make excellent houseplants and will be comfortable in a container as long it provides adequate drainage and room for growth. Heights of around 3 to 5 feet (1-1.5 m.) can be expected for a lemon tree growing indoors. They also prefer well-draining, slightly acidic soil. Keep the soil evenly moist and fertilize as needed. Lemon trees thrive within a normal temperature range of about 70 F. (21 C.) throughout the day and 55 F. (13 C.) at night. Keep in mind that they will usually go into dormancy when temperatures fall below 55 F. (13 C.) Lemon trees require lots of light; therefore, they may need to be supplemented with fluorescent grow lights during winter. Explore More Lemon trees can be placed outdoors during warm periods, which is also recommended in order to increase their chances of bearing fruit. When you grow a lemon tree indoors, bees and other insects are unable to pollinate them.

Therefore, you should place them outdoors during summer unless you want to hand pollinate. Propagating for Lemon Tree Cultivation Many lemon trees are container-grown, purchased straight from the nursery. However, they can be propagated through cuttings, air layering, and seeds. The variety usually dictates the best method used; yet, different people see different results using different methods. Therefore, it’s best to find the method that works for you. The majority find it easier to propagate lemons by rooting large cuttings. While seeds can be used, the seedlings are usually slow to bear. When choosing to grow from seeds, allow them to dry out for a week or two. Once dried, plant the seeds about an inch deep in good potting soil and cover with clear plastic wrap. Set the pot in a sunny location and wait for it to reach 6 to 12 inches (15-30 cm.) before transplanting outdoors or to another pot.

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Apple Trees Pruning

When an apple tree becomes too big for a section or is in danger of falling because of disease or age, tree pruning or tree removal may be your only option. As tree pruning and arboriculture experts, the tree trimming crews have everything you need to get the job done and offer both a one off service or ongoing maintenance programs, as required.

Tree Pruning

Whether your objective is to promote tree growth or better fruit production, or to improve your view and let more sunlight in, our tree trimming crews are qualified and experienced to do the job.

Pruning a tree in a confined residential section can require a great deal of skill. Key considerations need to be given to avoid damage to surrounding buildings, water pipes, power lines and existing vegetation.

Using modern climbing techniques, our arborists can access trouble spots in the tree canopy and remove only necessary branches, without damaging any surrounding branches. Crown reductions and pruning to improve structural integrity are part of our everyday work.

In particularly confined spaces, limbs can be lowered down in small sections using specialized roping techniques, cranes, cherry pickers and even helicopters for more complicated sites.

Hedge Trimming: The hedge trimming service caters for hedges of all heights and sizes. With the right equipment for removal of hedges, we make light work of all shapes and sizes of hedge trimming.

Green Asset Management: Managing your green assets on an ongoing basis is the smartest and most economical way to maximize tree health and vitality.

Pruning around a Power line

Trees that grow too high may stretch towards electrical cables and cause problems. Tree branches can also obstruct views. In short, tree removal is needed when these situations occur. Homeowners may be compelled to take away trees to make way for a particular construction project. You have the option to cut down unwanted trees provided you have the expertise and equipment. Otherwise, get the services of professional tree removal services. These companies will give the service you like for a minimal cost.

The process of cutting trees is a complicated task. It has to be carried out by professionals who can cut down trees without destroying any structures. The task is more dangerous if the trees stand near electrical posts and wires. Trees located near edifices and fences are not easy to remove while those located in open spaces are easier to remove. Costs depend on the tallness, thickness, form and quantity of branches.

Expert cutters know how to take care of cutting timber. These service providers do not simply cut a tree without a plan. Measurements have to be taken at the start so that the falling log does not hit any person, house, vehicle or electric post and wires. Trees should be cut at the correct angle so it goes down on the proper direction.

Stump removal is also difficult. It calls for the work of experts to avoid damages. Tree cutting services know how to operate complicated gear such as cranes, special ladders and ropes. These people also consider the safety factor and disease control aspects so you can be assured of a complete service even if you have to spend some money.

Tackling the job yourself can be very dangerous, and specialist equipment is needed to avoid electrocution. The expertise, equipment and procedures (including significant public liability insurance cover) to maintain the electrical network from any possible interruptions is essential and needed when dealing with trees (apple tree) around a power line.

A crew is employed by a number of major power networks across the country to scope and audit power networks, and to carry out line clearing.

How to Prune Apple Trees

New to pruning? Then we will cover all you need to know about how to prune apple trees, including why, when, which, with what, and how in eight easy steps.

Why to Prune Apple Trees

We prune apple trees for four main reasons.

First, to make the tree easy to maintain and harvest by controlling the height and shape.

Secondly, to maintain a healthy tree by removing dead, diseased or damaged wood.

Thirdly, to improve air circulation which reduces pests and diseases.

Fourthly, to let sunlight reach the fruits so they can grow healthy and large.

When to Prune Apple Trees

It is best to prune an apple tree when it’s still dormant, this means early spring, about two weeks after the late frost. Not only are the buds easier to see and cut, but the cuts will also heal more quickly.

If you prune in the fall, then new growth will start but will be damaged by the cold winter. If you prune in the early winter, then the open cut can be susceptible to diseases.

If you see dead, diseased, or damaged, wood, you should cut these off as soon as you notice, no matter the time in the year so that the tree isn’t damaged any further.

Which Apple Trees to Prune

Wait to do the heavy pruning in the third year of growth after planting since this will allow the tree to establish itself. If your apple tree provides a lot of shade, then it needs to be pruned.

When there is a lot of pruning to do, then space out the pruning over several seasons.

What to Prune Apple Trees With

The tools to use depends on which type of branch you are cutting. In all cases though, be sure to sterilize the tools with hot soapy water or disinfectant to prevent any damage or infection.

For small branches and twigs, use hand pruners
.
For large branches about 1” thick, use loppers. These provide good leverage.

For branches about 3” thick and more, use a saw.

How to Prune Apple Trees

Step 0: Aim for a Central Leader, Pyramidal Form

Apple trees should have a pyramidal and conical shape, with shorter branches at the top so that they can allow sunlight to reach the lower branches.

Additionally, apple trees should be pruned with a central leader form, with one central branch growing vertically from the trunk.

Step 1: Remove Any Dead, Diseased, or Damaged Limbs (3 D’s)

You know if a branch is dead if it’s brittle and breaks very easily.

You usually know if a branch is diseased if the wood is a different color than the other branches around it.

You will see a damaged branch when it has partially broken from the weight of the fruits. Additionally, when two branches have crossed and rubbed against one another this can also damage the wood.

Once you have identified the branches with the 3 D’s, then cut the wood back to the nearest bud where the wood is still healthy.

Step 2: Prune Competing Central Leader Branches

Your apple tree should have one central leading branch which grows vertically from the trunk.

If there are multiple central leading branches, then choose the healthier and stronger one and cut the rest so that the tree remains strong.

Step 3: Prune Non-Primary Scaffold Branches

Your apple tree should have 2-6 primary scaffold branches (depending on the size of the tree) which connect to the central lead branch and are evenly spaced around it.

If two scaffold branches are too close to one another, remove one.

If you look at the tree from the top, it should look like a star.

These scaffold branches should have a 45 to 50 degree angle from the trunk.

When the angle is less than this, then the branch will fall from the weight of the fruit.

When the angle is more than this, then there won’t be as much fruit on the branches.

Step 4: Prune Suckers

When shoots or branches grow near the base of the trunk prune them so that the shape is preserved. Suckers shouldn’t grow below the canopy of the tree.

Step 5: Prune Downward & Inward Growing Branches

First, identify the branches growing downward. Then prune them since they won’t be able to bear the weight of the fruit.
Also prune any branches growing inward so that they don’t rub against other branches.

Step 6: Prune the Whorls

Whorls are places where three or more small branches grow from the same location. Once you identify the whorls then choose the healthier and strongest one, and prune the rest. After all, the branch won’t be able to support all of the small branches growing in this one location.

Step 7: Prune Back All Branches

In order for the stems to become thicker and develop flowers cut all branches back by ⅓ of its original length. However, make sure to make these cuts just above a bud that faces outward in order for the tree to have a healthy shape.

Step 8: Thin the Buds

Lastly, thin out the fruiting buds so that they are 4-6” apart. This will ensure that the branch bears just enough weight from the apples.
And voila! You are done! If you have any questions, we are here to help!

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