Tree Care

Tree care is the application of arboricultural methods like pruning, trimming, and felling or thinning in built environments. Road verge, greenways, backyard and park woody vegetation are at the center of attention for the tree care industry. Landscape architecture and urban forestry also set high demands on professional tree care. High safety standards against the dangers of tree care have helped the industry evolve. Especially felling in space-limited environments poses significant risks: the vicinity of power or telephone lines, insufficient protective gear (against falling dead wood, chainsaw wounds, etc.) and narrow felling zones with endangered nearby buildings, parking cars, etc. The required equipment and experience usually transcends private means and is often considered too costly as a permanent part of the public infrastructure. In singular cases, traditional tools like handsaws may suffice, but large-scale tree care usually calls for heavy machinery like cranes, bucket trucks, harvesters, and wood chippers.

Road side trees are especially prone to abiotic stress by exhaust fumes, toxic road debris, soil compaction, and drought which makes them susceptible to fungal infections and various plant pests. When tree removal is not an option, because of road ecology considerations, the main challenge is to achieve road safety (visibility of road signs, blockage-free lanes, etc.) while maintaining tree health.

Tree Care Tips & Techniques

These comprehensive tree care tips will guide you through the process of selecting, planting, and caring for the right tree for your space.
It’s important to remember that proper tree care starts when you select a tree. And what you do to your tree in its first few years of life will affect its shape, strength, and even its lifespan. Following these steps will make sure your tree gets a good start for a healthy life.

Choosing the Right Type of Tree

Proper tree care begins with selecting the right tree and planting it in the right place. Make sure your tree will thrive — especially once fully grown — where you want to plant it. Things to consider include:

The tree’s purpose. Are you planting it for aesthetics, privacy, shade/energy reduction, windbreak, or as a street tree? Your end goal will determine the suitability of different trees.

Right Tree, Right Place

Short, flowering trees don’t clash with overhead utility lines. Large deciduous trees on the southeast, southwest, and west provide cooling shade in the summer but don’t obstruct the warming winter sunlight. An evergreen windbreak to the north blocks cold winds in winter.

Selecting a Healthy Tree

Good tree care starts with a healthy tree. Here’s what to look for to ensure your tree can provide a lifetime of benefits.

Bare-Root Seedlings

Roots should be moist and fibrous.

Deciduous seedlings should have roots about equal to stem length.

Balled and Bur lapped Trees

Root ball should be firm to the touch, especially near the trunk.

Root ball should be adequate for the tree’s size.

Container-Grown Trees

Container should not contain large, circling roots.

Pruned roots should be cut cleanly, none wider than a finger.

Soil and roots should be joined tightly.

Additional considerations when purchasing a mature tree include:

A strong, well-developed leader (or leaders in a multi-leader tree).

Bright, healthy bark.

Trunk and limbs free of insect or mechanical injury.

Branches well-distributed around trunk, considerably smaller caliper than trunk.

Ideal spacing between branches, at least 8–12” for most species.

Good trunk taper.

Wide-angle crotches for strength.

Low branches — they are temporary but help develop taper, promote trunk caliper growth, and prevent sun damage.

Planting a Tree

Planting Bare Root Trees

Planting Balled and Burlapped Trees

Planting Containerized Trees

Proper Mulching

Mulch is a newly planted tree’s best friend because it:

Insulates the soil, helping to provide a buffer from heat and cold.

Retains water to help the roots stay moist.

Keeps weeds out to avoid root competition.

Prevents soil compaction.

Reduces lawn mower damage.

Steps to Adding Mulch around Your Tree

Remove any grass within a 3-foot area (up to 10 feet for larger tree).

Pour natural mulch such as wood chips or bark pieces 2 to 4 inches deep within the circle.

Keep the mulch from touching the trunk of the tree.

Tree Watering

Tree watering is a key part of tree care, but it is difficult to recommend an exact amount due to the variety of climates. A few guidelines will help you to water your trees properly.

Watering Newly Planted Trees

For new trees, water immediately after you plant a tree. Usually 30 seconds with a steady stream of water from a garden hose w/ a diffuser nozzle per tree seedling is sufficient.

Watering Trees during First Two Years

During the first couple growing seasons, your newly planted tree is expending a lot of energy trying to get its roots established in the soil. Especially during the first few summers of your new trees life, it will have a difficult time dealing with heat and drought. You can make this easier by providing water and covering the soil with wood-chip mulch. Deep watering can help speed the root establishment. Deep water consists of keeping the soil moist to a depth that includes all the roots.

How Much Water and When

Not enough water is harmful for the tree, but too much water is bad as well. Over-watering is a common tree care mistake. Please note that moist is different than soggy, and you can judge this by feel. A damp soil that dries for a short period will allow adequate oxygen to permeate the soil.

You can check soil moisture by using a garden trowel and inserting it into the ground to a depth of 2”, and then move the blade of the trowel back and forth to create a small narrow trench. Then use your finger to touch the soil. If it is moist to the touch, then they do not need water.

Drought-Tolerant Species

If your area constantly deals with drought you will want to consider trees listed as drought-tolerant. Some drought-tolerant species include Arizona Cypress, Japanese Zelkova, White Fir, and Kentucky Coffee tree.

Moisture-Tolerant Species

On the opposite side of the spectrum if your area deals with a large amount of moisture or wet conditions, here are a few trees that will do better in wet conditions: Bald cypress, Shellbark Hickory, Red Maple, Silver Maple, Paper Birch, River Birch, and Weeping Willow.

Pruning

Proper pruning technique is important for a healthy tree. Please review our animated Tree Pruning Guide as well as videos on why pruning is necessary, the rules of pruning, and the ABCs of pruning.

When to Prune

This depends to a large extent on why you prune. Light pruning and the removal of dead wood can be done anytime. Otherwise, below are some guidelines for the different seasons.

WINTER PRUNING

Pruning during dormancy is the most common practice. It results in a vigorous burst of new growth in the spring and should be used if that is the desired effect. It is usually best to wait until the coldest part of winter has passed.

SUMMER PRUNING

To direct the growth by slowing the branches you don’t want, or to “dwarf” the development of a tree or branch, pruning should be done soon after seasonal growth is complete. Another reason to prune in the summer is for corrective purposes. Defective limbs can be seen more easily.

PRUNING FLOWERING TREES TO ENHANCE FLOWERING

For trees that bloom in spring, prune when their flowers fade. Trees and shrubs that flower in mid- to late summer should be pruned in winter or early spring.

WHEN NOT TO PRUNE: FALL

Because decay fungi spread their spores profusely in the fall and wounds seem to heal more slowly on fall on cuts, this is a good time to leave your pruning tools in storage.

Tree removal

While the perceived risk of death by falling trees (a part of the “tree risk” complex) is influenced by media and often hyped (the objective risk has been reported to be close to 1: 10.000.000, almost as low as death by lightning), singular events have encouraged a “proactive” stance so that even lightly damaged trees are likely to be removed in urban and public traffic surroundings. As a tree ages and nears the end of its safe useful life expectancy (SULE), its perceived amenity value is decreased greatly. A risk assessment normally carried out by local council’s arborist to determine the best course of action. As with all public green spaces, trees in green urban spaces and their careful conservation is sometimes in conflict with aggressive urban development even though it is often understood how urban trees contribute to livability of suburbs and cities both objectively (reduction of urban heat island effect, etc.) and subjectively.

Tree planting programs implemented by a growing number of cities, local councils and organizations is mitigating the losses and in most cases increasing the number of trees in suburbia. Programs include the planting of 2 trees for every 1 tree removed, while some councils are paying land owners to keep trees instead of removing them for farming or construction.

Standards

The voluntary industry consensus standards developed by TCIA, resulted in the ANSI A300 standard, the generally accepted industry standard for tree care practices including trees, shrubs, and other woody plants. It includes the following parts:

Pruning

Soil management

Supplemental support systems

Lightning protection systems

Management

Planting and transplanting

Integrated vegetation management

Root management standard

Tree risk assessment

Integrated pest management

Professional associations

Tree Care Industry Association

International Society of Arboriculture.

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Stump Grinding Near Me

WHAT IS STUMP GRINDING?

When providing a proposal for a tree removal, an arborists also evaluate the site for stump grinding. While having the stump ground is not always necessary, many people prefer to deal with the stump at the same time as having the tree removed. Stump grinding allows the property owner to use the area where the tree once stood for laying sod or planting a flower bed. The stump grinder also produces mulch that has many uses around the yard. Here are answers to some common questions we get about stump grinding.

HOW DEEP CAN THE STUMP GRINDER GO?

They generally grind four to six inches below grade (ground level). If deeper grinding is needed, it can be requested, although the price of stump grinding may increase. The depth to which a stump can be ground is subject to some limitations, however. The stump-grinding blade has a diameter of about 10 inches, and can only be maneuvered up and down within a specific range.
A tree that grew in shallow soil, such as over the limestone bedrock prevalent in the Dallas area, may not have six inches of grindable depth.

Other material near or around the tree may limit how deep the grinder can go. While the stump grinder is powerful, it is only designed to handle plant material, wood, and dirt. Take note of:

Fencing, concrete, brick, or rock around a stump (such as a tree ring)

Nearby trees that may have roots under the tree stump

Swimming pools, walkways, and patios that may prevent the grinder from reaching all of the root material

Lawn irrigation, sprinkler systems, tree lighting wiring, and buried hoses

We generally do not grind deep enough to risk interfering with properly-installed utility lines or buried cables, but unforeseen obstacles can be encountered that necessitate a shallower grind.

What exactly lies beneath the roots of a tree or the surrounding soil may be a mystery, even to the homeowner. While we are very careful when grinding a stump, we will not take responsible for damage to irrigation lines or other items located below ground that we are not aware of. It is important to inform your arborist of any sprinkler systems or other objects that might be in the area to be ground before the work begins.

WHAT IS LEFT AFTER A STUMP IS GROUND?

As the blade grinds the stump and surface roots, it produces a mulch made up of tree material and dirt. The mulch produced by stump grinding can take up a much greater volume than the original stump. (It can be helpful to think of the difference between a block of cheese and that same cheese after it is grated.)

Mulch from stump grinding is valuable organic material that decomposes more quickly than many other kinds of mulch, as there are generally smaller wood particles present, and more soil to help it break down. It is our standard practice to push the mulch back into the area that has been ground (“backfilling”). Even so, there is usually a large pile of mulch left above ground, often much more than the tree owner expected. Because of its composition, the mulch does settle fairly quickly, but many people prefer to use the mulch around their yards, rather than leaving it where the stump once was.

Stump grinder mulch can be used for composting or applied in flower beds. (Depending on exact composition of the mulch, it may not perform in the same way as typical hardwood mulch, and may need to be replaced sooner.) After some time, when the mulch has settled, it can be packed into the ground-out area, making the area ready to be prepped for laying sod or for planting a flower bed or other small plants. If requested, we can provide mulch bagging and/or bagged mulch haul-off as an additional service after stump grinding, but our standard practice is to leave all grinder mulch on-site.

WILL THE TREE COME BACK AFTER A STUMP IS GROUND?

Even with stump grinding, some species of tree can still send up shoots and new growth from the roots left below ground. Crape myrtles, chinaberry trees, hackberries, and Bradford pears are some common species in the area that can be very persistent in growing back. The sprouts that return after stump grinding can be trimmed or mown down and will eventually stop coming back, as the remaining roots use up their energy reserves. Commercially-available woody stem killer can be used to accelerate the dieback of the roots. White vinegar can also be used as an organic alternative to commercial root killer.

CAN I REPLANT AFTER A STUMP IS GROUND?

We are often contacted about removing a tree that the owner would like to replace. We do not recommend trying to re-plant trees in the same area where a tree was removed and the stump ground. Even with a deep grind, an extensive root system remains underground. The old root system can interfere with the new tree’s attempts to become established. Furthermore, if the old tree had a disease, that disease may still be present in the remaining root tissue, and can be transmitted to the new tree. When replanting is desired, we can discuss finding a location that is far enough from the removed tree to lessen the likelihood of interference from the old root system. If homeowners’ association or municipal restrictions require a tree to be replaced in a certain location, excavation or hand digging may be the only options.

CAN EVERY STUMP BE GROUND?

In the case of a tree becoming uprooted (because of storm damage or root rot, for example), the stump cannot be dealt with as easily. If there is a large amount of root material above ground, the stump grinder may be physically unable to reach it. Depending on the type of tree and how it grew, it may pull up a great deal of dirt, turf grass, and other underground material when it falls. What is left after grinding an uprooted stump may be more dirt than tree matter, and may not be suitable for use as mulch.

Weather is also a factor that can determine how and when stump grinding can be performed. A long period of rain can cause the soil to become waterlogged. Operating a stump grinder in heavy, wet soil can not only make a bigger mess than usual, but can damage the surrounding area due to the weight of the machine. It may be necessary to wait until the area dries out before attempting even a “standard” stump grind.

If a customer has a special circumstance, like an uprooted tree, or there are multiple stumps in one area to be ground, we always send an arborist to assess the situation before providing a quote or scheduling the stump grinder.

HOW MUCH DOES STUMP GRINDING COST?

The cost of stump grinding is dependent upon three main factors: the size of the stump, the location of the stump, and how deep the grinder needs to go. While we generally provide a stump grinding price when we give a quote for tree removal, we are also happy to evaluate any other stumps you may want to have ground.

HOW DO I MEASURE A STUMP?

The base cost for stump grinding is determined by the diameter of the stump in inches, including any above-ground roots. This measurement can be taken before or after a tree is removed. To get the right measurement, it is important to go “from dirt to dirt.” This means measuring from the stump edge or root point (where it touches the dirt) farthest from the trunk to the opposite edge or root point. It is also important to measure from different directions and to take an average measurement, as this most accurately reflects the area to be ground. The “dirt-to-dirt” measurement can be quite a bit larger than the diameter of the tree trunk, and we do see situations where the stump grinding is more costly than removing the above-ground tree.
This is a 75-inch stump, measured “dirt to dirt” at the yellow line. Measuring on the trunk is inaccurate: if this tree were measured at the red line, the result would only be 37 inches, which is not the actual area to be ground. Even after a tree is cut down, properly measuring a stump can be tricky when there is a root flare and surrounding vegetation.

CAN THE STUMP GRINDER REACH MY STUMP?

Our standard stump grinder is a machine that is seven feet long and three feet wide. At the front is a rounded blade (similar to the tip of a chainsaw) that chips away wood as it moves across the stump. The stump grinder is designed to fit through standard gates, but some older or narrow gates may not be able to accommodate it. The weight of the machine may also prevent it from reaching certain areas without damaging walkways or ground cover. While the grinding blade has some maneuverability, clearance of at least seven feet on one side of the stump is required to allow the grinder to access the area to be ground. In smaller areas with less clearance, it is possible to use our smaller stump grinder, but this can increase the time and cost of the procedure.

CAN I JUST LEAVE THE STUMP?

It is not necessary to grind or otherwise remove a stump after a tree is taken down. We have customers who request a tree not be cut all the way to ground level, and use the remaining stump as a plant stand, table base, or just a yard feature. Even if the stump is cut close to the ground, it can last several years. Preservative coatings can also be applied to prolong the life of a standing stump.

Some homeowners prefer to let a stump decompose naturally over time. Old stumps can become habitats for fungi, insects, and other creatures. As the stump breaks down, it can become rich organic material that can be added to compost or used in planting. If a stump is left unground, however, it can continue to send out new growth for years after the tree has been removed. Drilling holes in the stump and filling with Epsom salt or using commercial stump killer can accelerate stump dieback, but those chemicals can be toxic to surrounding plant life. Treating the stump with chemicals can also make the area hazardous to people and pets.

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