The Majesty Palm, also known as the Ravenea rivularis, is a tropical palm tree that is native to Madagascar. It is a popular indoor and outdoor plant due to its elegant and striking appearance. The Majesty Palm can grow up to 30 feet tall in its natural habitat, but when grown in pots, it typically reaches between 6 and 8 feet tall.
Ravenea rivularis, the majestic palm, or majesty palm, is a species of tree in the family Arecaceae. They generally grow to 10 to 12 feet tall and are often marketed in stores as a “houseplant” in a pot, in its natural state, the majesty palm may sometimes grow to 98 feet (30 meters) tall.
The palm has upward-arching leaves divided into long, thin fingers. It is native to Madagascar; however, it is believed only about 900 plants are currently alive in the wild according to an assessment conducted in 2010. The species grows in several regions of Madagascar, but because those regions are totally surrounded and separated by desert, the natural spread of the species is limited. Despite its fragility as a species in the wild, it has become a very popular houseplant due to its beautiful leaves and slow-growing nature.
Adult Ravenea Rivularis, Florida USA
Ravenea rivularis grows in somewhat isolated humid habitats that are found in the otherwise dry, hot semi-arid climate of southwest Madagascar. Often, they grow huddled along the edges of riverbanks and natural lagoons, but also grow in shallow swamps where they receive ample water and humidity year-round. Due to its love for warm, moist air which can be difficult to provide consistently in most homes, the most common problem affecting those kept as houseplants is browning leaf tips. To replicate its natural growing conditions, plants should be misted with warm water daily or kept near a humidifier. It should also be watered more frequently than average houseplants especially in the spring and summer. That being said, fast-draining soil is preferable, such as soil labeled for cacti, in a well-draining container to allow water to seep through the root system and out of the pot. Although they can also suffer from lack of sunlight, Ravenea rivularis is much more sensitive to lack of water and humidity.
Majesty palms are often sold as cheap lush tropical foliage house plants but are hard to take care of for long term survivability.
In addition to ample water, Ravenea rivularis kept as a houseplant requires specialty fertilizer for palm trees which contains more magnesium than all-purpose fertilizers. Slow-release palm fertilizer with an NPK ratio of about 8-2-12 with at least 4% magnesium is ideal. A pinch of epsom salt may also be used as an alternative source of magnesium.
The leaves of the Majesty Palm are large and feathery, reaching up to 4 feet long. They are a glossy green color and are arranged in a graceful arching pattern. The trunk of the palm is slender and smooth, with a gray-brown color. The tree produces small, insignificant flowers that are followed by small, round berries.
The Majesty Palm prefers a well-draining soil that is rich in organic matter. It prefers a warm and humid environment, making it an ideal plant for a greenhouse or a conservatory. It can also be grown outdoors in tropical and subtropical climates.
When grown indoors, the Majesty Palm prefers bright, indirect light, and should be kept away from direct sunlight. It also prefers high humidity, so regular misting or placing a tray of water near the plant can help to maintain the necessary moisture levels.
The Majesty Palm is relatively low maintenance, but it does require regular watering and fertilization. It is also important to prune off any yellow or brown leaves as they appear, to keep the plant looking healthy and tidy.
Overall, the Majesty Palm is a beautiful and striking plant that can add a touch of elegance to any indoor or outdoor space. With proper care and maintenance, it can thrive for many years and become a cherished addition to any garden or home.
What Kind of Fertilizer for a Majesty Palm?
Palms are the kind of plant that does not go unnoticed in the landscape. Majesty palm (Ravenea rivularis) is a symmetrical, feather-leaved variety introduced from the rainforests of Madagascar. It is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11, but is commonly grown as a houseplant in colder climates. Like other palms, it has exacting fertilizer requirements that are not met by generic, all-purpose fertilizers.
Nutrient Needs
Most garden centers sell fertilizer products formulated specifically for palm trees and these are perfect for majesty palms. These differ from most other fertilizers because the manufacturer includes magnesium, along with other trace elements. The ideal palm fertilizer has 8 percent nitrogen, 2 percent phosphorus, 12 percent potassium and 4 percent magnesium – these are indicated with the numbers 8-2-12-4 printed on the bag. Make sure to use slow-release fertilizers only.
Outdoor Fertilizer Application
Fertilize majesty palms planted in the ground every two months between April and September, for a total of three applications per year. Spread the fertilizer evenly over the root zone of the plant at a rate of 1.5 pounds of granular fertilizer for every 100 square feet of surface area. Spread the fertilizer on the ground in an area that corresponds to the size of the canopy, at a minimum. However, the roots of large majesty palms can extend far beyond the canopy, so spread the fertilizer to twice the size of the canopy on mature specimens.
Lawns and Palms
One challenge in growing majesty palms outdoors is the negative effects of lawn fertilizer on nearby palm trees. Lawn fertilizers have a high ratio of nitrogen to potassium that causes a nutritional imbalance in palms. Plus, they contain little or no magnesium, which is necessary for palm health. However, palm fertilizer can effectively meet the nutrient needs of lawn grass. As a general rule, use only palm fertilizer within 30 feet of the trunk of majesty palms – it will not harm grasses and other plants in the vicinity.
Potted Majesty Palms
Fertilize potted palms in a slightly different manner than plants in the ground; this holds true for the majesty palm as well. Potted palms need a higher proportion of nitrogen – use a liquid fertilizer labeled 18-6-12 for best results. The potting mix usually will supply magnesium in the form of dolomite, though the initial quantity may last only six months. You can repot majesty palm each year, or add dolomite at a rate of 1 pound per cubic foot of potting soil each year. Apply a slow-release liquid fertilizer every three months to potted palms.
It is, however, a somewhat tricky plant to grow successfully indoors, requiring humid air, lots of bright indirect light, and consistent moisture. It is often referred to by houseplant experts as a “challenging” plant.
When grown indoors, majesty palm will add about one foot of growth per year until it reaches four to six feet, then slows down dramatically. It is faster-growing as an outdoor plant where its roots are free to roam—it is occasionally used as a landscape tree in California, South Florida, and other tropical regions.
Types of Majesty Palm
There are no named cultivars of Ravenea rivularis. There are only about 20 species in the Ravenea genus, all of them considered seriously endangered. R. rivularis is the only species commonly cultivated for garden or houseplant use.
Pruning
Pruning duties are generally limited to simply removing any fronds that have turned brown or yellow. This is all that’s needed to keep the plant looking good.
Propagating Majesty Palm
Majesty palms are raised exclusively from seed, and commercial production of seeds is somewhat limited. It’s highly unlikely that home growers can get access to seeds. Propagation through stem cuttings is also not an option. However, division, or separating the offset “pups” from the mother palm, is a viable option. This method is best done when you need to repot the plant so the plant is not stressed by moving it around too much. Here are the steps for division:
Remove the plant from its pot by gently rolling it out of the container while it’s on its side. Do not yank the palm from its pot from an upright position.
Look for pups, or offshoots, from the mother plant that you can potentially separate from the root ball.
Massage the root ball with your fingers to relax and soften it so you can untangle the pups. To help separate roots, use a disinfected, sharp knife if needed. You can even trim the roots of the pups if they are too long for new pots.
Place offshoots in pots with fast-draining soil. Water the pots in a sink until it starts to drip from the bottom, but do not let the pot sit in water.
Put pots in a bright spot, like its mother plant. Fertilize the baby palms in about a month.
Potting and Repotting Majesty Palm
This palm may need to be repotted annually, but more likely every other year since it grows slowly. When repotting, be careful not to damage the root ball and use a large, heavy container to prevent the palm tree from tipping over. Pots made from clay or ceramic will help stabilize these plants, which can get top-heavy.
A standard potting mix blended with additional peat moss works well as a growing medium.
In cold-winter regions, it’s quite common to move these plants back and forth between an outdoor patio and an indoor location as the seasons shift. Make sure to get your plant indoors before freezing weather arrives.
Overwintering
During the winter, a majesty palm likes a slightly cooler temperature, 55 to 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Otherwise, winter care remains the same.
Tree Pruning Near Me
Tree Pruning Near Me
The main reasons for pruning ornamental and shade trees include safety, health, and aesthetics. In addition, pruning can be used to stimulate fruit production and increase the value of timber. Pruning for safety involves removing branches that could fall and cause injury or property damage, trimming branches that interfere with lines of sight on streets or driveways, and removing branches that grow into utility lines. Safety pruning can be largely avoided by carefully choosing species that will not grow beyond the space available to them, and have strength and form characteristics that are suited to the site.
Pruning for health involves removing diseased or insect-infested wood, thinning the crown to increase airflow and reduce some pest problems, and removing crossing and rubbing branches. Pruning can best be used to encourage trees to develop a strong structure and reduce the likelihood of damage during severe weather. Removing broken or damaged limbs encourage wound closure.
Pruning for aesthetics involves enhancing the natural form and character of trees or stimulating flower production. Pruning for form can be especially important on open grown trees that do very little self-pruning.
All woody plants shed branches in response to shading and competition. Branches that do not produce enough carbohydrates from photosynthesis to sustain themselves die and are eventually shed; the resulting wounds are sealed by wound wood (callus). Branches that are poorly attached may be broken off by wind and accumulation of snow and ice. Branches removed by such natural forces often result in large, ragged wounds that rarely seal. Pruning as a cultural practice can be used to supplement or replace these natural processes and increase the strength and longevity of plants.
Trees have many forms, but the most common types are pyramidal (excurrent) or spherical (decurrent). Trees with pyramidal crowns, e.g., most conifers, have a strong central stem and lateral branches that are more or less horizontal and do not compete with the central stem for dominance. Trees with spherical crowns, e.g., most hardwoods, have many lateral branches that may compete for dominance. To reduce the need for pruning it is best to consider a tree’s natural form. It is very difficult to impose an unnatural form on a tree without a commitment to constant maintenance.
Pollarding and topiary are extreme examples of pruning to create a desired, unnatural effect. Pollarding is the practice of pruning trees annually to remove all new growth. The following year, a profusion of new branches is produced at the ends of the branches. Topiary involves pruning trees and shrubs into geometric or animal shapes. Both pollarding and topiary are specialized applications that involve pruning to change the natural form of trees. As topiary demonstrates, given enough care and attention plants can be pruned into nearly any form. Yet just as proper pruning can enhance the form or character of plants, improper pruning can destroy it.
Pruning Approaches
Producing strong structure should be the emphasis when pruning young trees. As trees mature, the aim of pruning will shift to maintaining tree structure, form, health and appearance.
Proper pruning cuts are made at a node, the point at which one branch or twig attaches to another. In the spring of the year growth begins at buds, and twigs grow until a new node is formed. The length of a branch between nodes is called an internode.
Crown thinning – branches to be removed are shaded in blue; pruning cuts should be made at the red lines. No more than one-fourth of the living branches should be removed at one time.
The most common types of pruning are:
Crown thinning, primarily for hardwoods, is the selective removal of branches to increase light penetration and air movement throughout the crown of a tree. The intent is to maintain or develop a tree’s structure and form. To avoid unnecessary stress and prevent excessive production of epicormic sprouts, no more than one-quarter of the living crown should be removed at a time. If it is necessary to remove more, it should be done over successive years.
Types of branch unions.
Branches with strong U-shaped angles of attachment should be retained. Branches with narrow, V-shaped angles of attachment often form included bark and should be removed. Included bark forms when two branches grow at sharply acute angles to one another, producing a wedge of inward-rolled bark between them. Included bark prevents strong attachment of branches, often causing a crack at the point below where the branches meet. Codominant stems that are approximately the same size and arise from the same position often form included bark. Removing some of the lateral branches from a codominant stem can reduce its growth enough to allow the other stem to become dominant.
Lateral branches should be no more than one half to three-quarters of the diameter of the stem at the point of attachment. Avoid producing “lion’s tails,” tufts of branches and foliage at the ends of branches, caused by removing all inner lateral branches and foliage. Lion’s tails can result in sunscalding, abundant epicormic sprouts, and weak branch structure and breakage.
Crown raising is the practice of removing branches from the bottom of the crown of a tree to provide clearance for pedestrians, vehicles, buildings, lines of site, or to develop a clear stem for timber production. Also, removing lower branches on white pines can prevent blister rust. For street trees the minimum clearance is often specified by municipal ordinance. After pruning, the ratio of the living crown to total tree height should be at least two-thirds.
On young trees “temporary” branches may be retained along the stem to encourage taper and protect trees from vandalism and sun scald. Less vigorous shoots should be selected as temporary branches and should be about 10 to 15 cm apart along the stem. They should be pruned annually to slow their growth and should be removed eventually.
Crown reduction pruning is most often used when a tree has grown too large for its permitted space. This method, sometimes called drop crotch pruning, is preferred to topping because it results in a more natural appearance, increases the time before pruning is needed again, and minimizes stress.
Crown reduction pruning, a method of last resort, often results in large pruning wounds to stems that may lead to decay. This method should never be used on a tree with a pyramidal growth form. A better long term solution is to remove the tree and replace it
Crown reduction – branches to be removed are shaded in blue; pruning cuts should be made where indicated with red lines. To prevent branch dieback, cuts should be made at lateral branches that are at least one-third the diameter of the stem at their union.
Pruning Cuts
Pruning cuts should be made so that only branch tissue is removed and stem tissue is not damaged. At the point where the branch attaches to the stem, branch and stem tissues remain separate, but are contiguous. If only branch tissues are cut when pruning, the stem tissues of the tree will probably not become decayed, and the wound will seal more effectively.
1. Pruning living branches
To find the proper place to cut a branch, look for the branch collar that grows from the stem tissue at the underside of the base of the branch. On the upper surface, there is usually a branch bark ridge that runs (more or less) parallel to the branch angle, along the stem of the tree. A proper pruning cut does not damage either the branch bark ridge or the branch collar.
A proper cut begins just outside the branch bark ridge and angles down away from the stem of the tree, avoiding injury to the branch collar. Make the cut as close as possible to the stem in the branch axil, but outside the branch bark ridge, so that stem tissue is not injured and the wound can seal in the shortest time possible. If the cut is too far from the stem, leaving a branch stub, the branch tissue usually dies and wound wood forms from the stem tissue. Wound closure is delayed because the wound wood must seal over the stub that was left.
The quality of pruning cuts can be evaluated by examining pruning wounds after one growing season. A concentric ring of wound wood will form from proper pruning cuts. Flush cuts made inside the branch bark ridge or branch collar, result in pronounced development of wound wood on the sides of the pruning wounds with very little wound wood forming on the top or bottom. As described above, stub cuts result in the death of the remaining branch and wound wood forms around the base from stem tissues. When pruning small branches with hand pruners, make sure the tools are sharp enough branch collar. This cut will prevent a falling branch from tearing the stem tissue as it pulls away from the tree.
1. The second cut should be outside the first cut, all the way through the branch, leaving a short stub.
2. The stub is then cut just outside the branch bark ridge/branch collar, completing the operation.
2. Pruning dead branches
Prune dead branches in much the same way as live branches. Making the correct cut is usually easy because the branch collar and the branch bark ridge, can be distinguished from the dead branch, because they continue to grow (Fig. 6A). Make the pruning cut just outside of the ring of woundwood tissue that has formed, being careful not to cause unnecessary injury (Fig. 6C). Large dead branches should be supported with one hand or cut with the threestep method, just as live branches. Cutting large living branches with the three step method is more critical because of the greater likelihood of bark ripping.
3. Drop Crotch Cuts
A proper cut begins just above the branch bark ridge and extends through the stem parallel to the branch bark ridge. Usually, the stem being removed is too large to be supported with one hand, so the three cut method should be used.
1. With the first cut, make a notch on the side of the stem away from the branch to be retained, well above the branch crotch.
2. Begin the second cut inside the branch crotch, staying well above the branch bark ridge, and cut through the stem above the notch.
3. Cut the remaining stub just inside the branch bark ridge through the stem parallel to the branch bark ridge.
To prevent the abundant growth of epicormics sprouts on the stem below the cut, or dieback of the stem to a lower lateral branch, make the cut at a lateral branch that is at least one-third of the diameter of the stem at their union.
Clearfield is a city in Davis County, Utah, United States. The population was 31,364 at the 2020 census. The city grew rapidly during the 1940s, with the formation of Hill Air Force Base, and in the 1950s with the nationwide increase in suburb and "bedroom" community populations and has been steadily growing since then.
TruCo is a great company to work with for your commercial landscaping and snow removal needs! Rob is excellent to work with. He is very timely in providing quotes and has a lot of great feedback and suggestions to provide on what will look great, fit within your budget, and is knowledgeable on plants that will thrive with Utah's ever changing weather conditions. I have been impressed with TruCo's landscape maintenance as well as landscape projects which have had a quick turnaround time. I would highly recommend using TruCo!
I experienced excellent all around service from landscape improvement design, scheduling and professional installation completed within the timeline we discussed. Rob, the manager does an excellent job of communicating, overseeing the install crew and making sure his customers are 100% satisfied with the job. Highly recommend TruCo for all landscaping needs.
We hired TruCo to do a new install of sprinklers, sod, spigot, and bury downspouts. We even have a wifi transmitter for our control box we can access from an app on our phones! We absolutely love the professionalism and quality of their work!! Our sales rep Pete was the best to work with, we highly recommend him to anyone in the market for landscaping. It was awesome seeing the finished results and we're incredibly excited to enjoy our new space!
TruCo installed all of our plants, trees and shrubs, drip lines, and boulders. Then they installed our amazing beautiful firepit. We loved the results and they guarantee all plants and trees up to a year. They were great and easy to work with. They listened to our needs and wants and met them 100%. Our HOA sent us a letter telling us they appreciate all the work and the way our yard looks and let us know we added value to the property. Win/Win
Avoid working for this company. They will promise you things to get you in, then tell you there is no documentation about said things. Extremely unprofessional.
Update to response - please dont try to justify. PTO was promised by the hiring manager on day 1 due to the conditions. Your company refusing to honor the agreement and tell me that there is no documentation is the problem. I quit after being told that you would not honor the PTO, not before.
Tree Plants Indoor
Tree Plants Indoor
Some Types of Tree Plants to Grow Indoors
With simple care tips, these tree plants can add lush greenery to your space.
An areca tree growing indoors.
The Spruce / Alonda Baird
Perhaps because of their association with tropical environments, indoor tree plants can elicit feelings of peace and relaxation like no other houseplant can. Trees are good indoor plants if you can provide the proper conditions for them. So indoor tree plant identification is key to know what your exact species needs.
Several types of indoor tree trees, including the areca tree and parlor tree, tolerate most household environments quite well. But there are some important factors to consider about indoor tree plant care.
Indoor Tree Plant Care Tips
How you care for an indoor tree plant is similar to many other houseplants that come from the tropics. Most types of indoor tree trees like the same conditions we find comfortable: warm temperatures, average humidity, and moderate light. Some indoor tree plants can even tolerate low light, though this usually will result in weaker growth.
Trees are generally slow-growing and need minimal pruning to clean up dead and broken fronds. They’ll require a quality tree fertilizer to help maintain lush growth. And you must watch out for common houseplant pests, such as spider mites and scale.
Here are some of the easiest trees to grow indoors to add a breezy, tropical feel to your home.
Chinese Fan Tree (Livistona chinensis)
Chinese fan tree with feathery frond leaves in white ceramic pot next to houseplants.
The Spruce / Kara Riley
The star-shaped leaves of Livistona chinensis set it apart from other trees with the more classic feathery fronds. While it’s slow-growing, this tree species’ mature height can reach 15 feet or greater. So it’s worth seeking out the subglobosa dwarf cultivar if you plan on growing the tree indoors.
Chinese fan trees do well in bright light, but younger plants can tolerate shady locations. Water when the top of the soil feels dry. Choose a large pot that will accommodate the long taproot that the Chinese fan tree produces. And feed this tree once a year in the spring with a slow-release fertilizer.
Light: Bright, indirect light; tolerates some shade
Water: Moderately moist soil
Color Varieties: Emerald green foliage
Areca Tree (Dypsis lutescens)
An areca tree growing indoors.
The Spruce / Alonda Baird
Also known as the bamboo tree, the areca tree (Dypsis lutescens) is one of the easiest trees to grow indoors thanks to its tolerance for low light. It produces large, feathery green fronds that have a gentle curve.
The areca tree prefers a moderate amount of water. Plant your areca tree in fertile soil, and give it a monthly fertilizer application to maintain a lush look.
Light: Sun or shade but looks its best in bright, indirect light
Water: Moderately moist soil
Color Varieties: Yellow-green stems and light green leaves
Majesty Tree (Ravenea rivularis)
Majestic tree in wicker basket with tall dark green fronds.
The Spruce / Kara Riley
The majesty tree (Ravenea rivularis) has two positive qualities that make it an ideal tree that will grow indoors: It is very shade tolerant, and it is a slow grower. However, you must be aware of two drawbacks of this tree: It needs constant moisture and humidity, and it will outgrow an indoor space over time.
If you can keep your majesty tree in a reasonably moist area, such as the kitchen or bathroom, then you can look forward to cultivating a graceful stand of dark green fronds that will add life to an empty corner of your home.
Light: Bright, indirect light for the entire day
Water: Consistently moist soil
Color Varieties: Bright green to dark green leaves
Cascade Tree (Chamaedorea cataractarum)
Green tree foliage tree isolated.
As opposed to some tree trees that feature a central trunk, Chamaedorea cataractarum is a very full tree with clumps of fronds eventually reaching 6 feet tall. You’ll be able to separate mature clumps, giving you new plant material to propagate by division.
In its native habitat, the cascade tree thrives along streams and in wet lowlands, so you must irrigate it frequently when growing it indoors. Fortunately for indoor growth, cascade trees are understory plants, so they can tolerate limited light.
Light: Bright, indirect light; tolerates shade; avoid direct sunlight
Water: Consistently moist soil
Color Varieties: Dark green leaves
Parlor Tree (Chamaedorea elegans)
Parlor tree in gold pot with small green fronds on shelf next to décor items.
The Spruce / Krystal Slagle
As the name suggests, the parlor tree (Chamaedorea elegans) is one of the easiest trees to grow indoors. It grows in average indoor light (or even artificial light) and typical room temperatures. And it requires no pruning other than an occasional tidying of dead branches.
Parlor trees flourish in above-average humidity. Be aware they might attract spider mites if conditions are very dry.
Light: Indirect light; avoid direct sun
Water: Consistently moist soil
Color Varieties: Light green leaves
Ponytail Tree (Beaucarnea recurvata)
Ponytail tree in white pot with long wispy fronds next to gold watering can and patterned pillows.
The swollen trunk base isn’t just ornamental; it functions as a water reservoir for the plant, making it very drought tolerant. Give your ponytail tree a sunny location for optimal plant health. Moreover, it’s fine for the ponytail tree to become pot bound; in fact, this can keep growth manageable for a tabletop specimen.
Light: Full sun; tolerates bright, indirect light
Water: Moderately moist soil, will tolerate dry conditions
Color Varieties: Light green leaves
Sago Tree (Cycas revoluta)
Sago tree in white pot with shaggy pineapple-like trunk and feather-like fronds next to white watering can and window.
The Spruce / Anastasia Tretiak
If the sago tree is your first introduction to the world of indoor tree plants, you’re in for a treat. Stiff fronds grow in an upright habit from a short, shaggy trunk that resembles a pineapple. This plant (which is not a true tree but more closely related to conifers) is very slow-growing.
Choose an indoor location that receives filtered sun for four to six hours per day. The sago tree needs regular and consistent moisture, but make sure the soil surface is nearly dry between water applications.
Light: Full sun or bright, indirect light; tolerates some shade
Water: Moderately moist soil
Color Varieties: Light green leaves
The sago tree is toxic to humans and pets. So be mindful about its placement as a houseplant if you have kids or animals.
Yucca Tree (Yucca elephantipes)
Yucca tree with sharp leaves in corner of living room.
The Spruce / Krystal Slagle
Indoor tree plant identification is very important when it comes to yucca trees. Yucca aloifolia, also known as the Spanish bayonet, has razor-sharp leaves and belongs outdoors. Yucca elephantipes is the spineless yucca tree, and while its leaves do have a pointy tip, the plant is unlikely to draw blood like its spiny cousin.
You might also see the indoor yucca tree sold under the name “stick yucca.” Tough strappy green leaves emerge from an attractive trunk on the yucca tree. The plants are very drought tolerant and grow in full sun or part shade.
Light: Full sun to part shade
Water: Moderately moist soil
Color Varieties: Light green to bluish-green
Tree plant Care
Successfully growing tree plant requires carefully balancing several factors: heat, light, and fertilization. Plants that are over-fertilized and grown in warm conditions, but not given enough light, will stretch out looking for more. Plants that are given too much light without a corresponding increase in fertilizer and water will scorch. The right balance indoors likely means a bright corner, with plenty of water, and less fertilizer than you probably think.
Tree plant has a reputation for being somewhat of a temperamental plant. Although tree plants are understory plants in their natural habitat, indoors it’s a good idea to provide as much light as possible. Plants that are stretching and bleached should be moved into a brighter spot for a few weeks, but don’t expose them to full sunlight.
Soil
These trees are acid-loving plants that do best with a pH level as low as 5.0, so don’t worry about a peat-based mixture acidifying and hurting your tree plant. A standard potting mix, with some extra peat mixed in, is an ideal growing medium for tree plants1. These trees need good drainage to prevent water-logged roots.
Water
Keep the potting media evenly moist, but not waterlogged. Don’t let the plant’s soil get too dry between watering or you’ll start to lose lower leaves.
Temperature and Humidity
This plant will grow fairly well in temperatures between 65 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. It prefers high humidity but can survive in ordinary household humidity levels. In colder climates where winter air can get very dry; running a humidifier can make the plants happier. Misting the plant daily will also ensure it gets the humidity it craves. Low humidity levels can encourage insect pests.
American Fork is a city in north-central Utah County, Utah, United States, at the foot of Mount Timpanogos in the Wasatch Range, north from Utah Lake. This city is thirty-two miles southeast of Salt Lake City. It is part of the Provo–Orem Metropolitan Statistical Area. The population was 33,337 in 2020. The city has grown rapidly since the 1970s.
TruCo is a great company to work with for your commercial landscaping and snow removal needs! Rob is excellent to work with. He is very timely in providing quotes and has a lot of great feedback and suggestions to provide on what will look great, fit within your budget, and is knowledgeable on plants that will thrive with Utah's ever changing weather conditions. I have been impressed with TruCo's landscape maintenance as well as landscape projects which have had a quick turnaround time. I would highly recommend using TruCo!
I experienced excellent all around service from landscape improvement design, scheduling and professional installation completed within the timeline we discussed. Rob, the manager does an excellent job of communicating, overseeing the install crew and making sure his customers are 100% satisfied with the job. Highly recommend TruCo for all landscaping needs.
We hired TruCo to do a new install of sprinklers, sod, spigot, and bury downspouts. We even have a wifi transmitter for our control box we can access from an app on our phones! We absolutely love the professionalism and quality of their work!! Our sales rep Pete was the best to work with, we highly recommend him to anyone in the market for landscaping. It was awesome seeing the finished results and we're incredibly excited to enjoy our new space!
TruCo installed all of our plants, trees and shrubs, drip lines, and boulders. Then they installed our amazing beautiful firepit. We loved the results and they guarantee all plants and trees up to a year. They were great and easy to work with. They listened to our needs and wants and met them 100%. Our HOA sent us a letter telling us they appreciate all the work and the way our yard looks and let us know we added value to the property. Win/Win
Avoid working for this company. They will promise you things to get you in, then tell you there is no documentation about said things. Extremely unprofessional.
Update to response - please dont try to justify. PTO was promised by the hiring manager on day 1 due to the conditions. Your company refusing to honor the agreement and tell me that there is no documentation is the problem. I quit after being told that you would not honor the PTO, not before.
Service Berry Bush
Service Berry Bush
What Is a Service berry Bush?
Service berry bushes (Amelanchier spp.), also called June berry or shad bush, are large deciduous ornamental bushes or small trees that vary in size and form depending on the species. Service berry varieties, which are native to North America, are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture zones 2 through 9. Gardeners plant them as border shrubs or specimen plants, or use them to attract wildlife. Servce berry bushes offer year-round ornamental appeal, as well as yielding an edible and flavorful berry that works well in jellies and pies.
Service berry Tree Identification
Most types of service berry bushes are multi-trunked. Their bark color varies from tan to pale gray; some varieties also have dark lines on their branches and trunks, and most have reddish-brown twigs that grow in a zigzag pattern.
The leaves vary In shape from oval to oblong depending upon the species, with finely serrated margins. Young servce berry leaves are purple or greenish-gray, but mature to medium or dark green. Native servce berry offers an attractive fall foliage display when its leaves change to orange, yellow or red, and the silvery bark adds to winter interest.
Flowers and Berries
Servce berry is one of the earliest bushes to produce flowers each year. Early in the spring, hairy, silvery flower buds emerge before the leaves. These buds remain closed for two to three weeks before opening into clusters of showy white blossoms. The petals usually only last between one day and one week, quickly falling from the tree as the foliage begins to appear.
Heavy clusters of small, round, green berries replace the blossoms. The green gives way to red, blue, purple or black as the fruits mature. Servce berry fruits vary in size between ¼ and 3/8 inches in diameter depending on the shrub variety.
Servce berry Varieties and Cultivars
Amelanchier alnifolia ‘Regent’ or regent servce berry is an early-flowering shrub that grows best in zones 2 through 7. Also called alder-leaved servce berry, it usually reaches heights of 4 to 6 feet with an approximately equal spread and yields rich purple berries, advises Missouri Botanical Garden. Amelanchier canadensis or shadblow servce berry shrub size is between 6 and 10 feet high and it produces sweet black berries.
This species is available in a number of cultivars including ‘Spring Glory,’ ‘Rainbow Pillar’ and ‘Tradition.’ Amelanchier arborea, or common servce berry, is a small tree or tall shrub that reaches heights of 15 to 25 feet, advises Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center Native Plant Database. Sometimes called the downy servce berry, a coating of soft hair covers its emerging leaves.
Cultivation and Potential Issues
Servce berry shrubs or trees grow best in partial shade. These hardy plants can tolerate a wide range of growing conditions, but they thrive in nutrient-rich, well-drained, moist acidic soil, with regular amounts of water. Serviceberries do not do well in soggy or poorly drained soil. They benefit from an occasional pruning after they have bloomed to remove dead or dying branches.
Several diseases such as fire blight and leaf spot occasionally infect servce berry plantings. Borer insects sometimes burrow into the wood and create tunnels below the bark, weakening the internal structure and killing limbs or entire plants. Heavy infestations of sap-feeding pests such as aphids and spider mites can speckle, yellow or distort the foliage.
Amelanchier arborea
Amelanchier arborea (downy servce berry or common servce berry), is native to eastern North America from the Gulf Coast north to Thunder Bay in Ontario and Lake St. John in Quebec, and west to Texas and Minnesota.
Other common names are “shadberries” (as their blossoming coincides with the shad runs in New England), “Juneberries” (because the berries usually set on in June), and “Service” or “Sarvice” berries because their blooms mean that the muddy back roads into the “coves and hollers” of Appalachia will soon be passable for circuit-riding preachers and the communities will be able to have Sunday services again. (Some say, more morbidly, that it means the ground is soft enough to dig, which means that those who died over winter can be buried and have services said over them.)
Amelanchier arborea is generally 5–12 m (16–39 ft) tall. Occasionally, it can grow up to 20 metres (66 ft) tall and reach into the overstory. The trunk can be up to 15 cm (6 in) in diameter (rarely to 40 cm or 16 in). The bark is smooth and gray.
The buds are slender with a pointed tip, and usually more than two scales visible. The leaves are ovate or elliptical, 4–8 cm (1+1⁄2–3+1⁄4 in), rarely 10 cm (4 in), long and 2.5–4 cm (1–1+5⁄8 in) wide, with pointed tips and finely serrated margins. A characteristic useful for identification is that the young leaves emerge downy on the underside. The fall color is variable, from orange-yellow to pinkish or reddish.
Flower details
It has perfect flowers that are 15–25 mm (5⁄8–1 in) in diameter, with 5 petals, emerging during bud break in early spring. The petals are white. Flowers are produced on pendulous racemes 3–5 cm (1+1⁄4–2 in) long with 4–10 flowers on each raceme. The flowers are pollinated by bees.
The fruit is a reddish-purple pome, resembling a small apple in shape. They ripen in summer and are very popular with birds. The fruit is eaten by over 40 species of birds and various mammals, including squirrels, rabbits, chipmunks, mice, voles, foxes, black bears, deer, and elk.
It also commonly hybridizes with other species of Amelanchier, the hybrid Amelanchier × grandiflora being one example, and identification can be very difficult as a result.
Cultivation
This species tolerates varying light levels, but is at its best in full sun. It requires good drainage and air circulation and should be watered during drought. It is often confused with other species in the nursery trade. Propagation is by seed, divisions and grafting.
The edible fruit is drier than some other serviceberries, and it is harvested locally for pies and jams, and has been known to be used for wine; they were also used by Native Americans to make bread.
Some report that the sweetened juice tastes like Dr. Pepper and some nurseries sell them as “The Dr. Pepper Tree”, but the fruit is not used in the soft drink.
Service Berry Care
Successfully growing service berries requires carefully balancing several factors: heat, light, and fertilization. Plants that are over-fertilized and grown in warm conditions, but not given enough light, will stretch out looking for more. Plants that are given too much light without a corresponding increase in fertilizer and water will scorch. The right balance indoors likely means a bright corner, with plenty of water, and less fertilizer than you probably think.
Service berry has a reputation for being somewhat of a temperamental plant. Although service berrys are understory plants in their natural habitat, indoors it’s a good idea to provide as much light as possible. Plants that are stretching and bleached should be moved into a brighter spot for a few weeks, but don’t expose them to full sunlight.
Soil
These palms are acid-loving plants that do best with a pH level as low as 5.0, so don’t worry about a peat-based mixture acidifying and hurting your service berry. A standard potting mix, with some extra peat mixed in, is an ideal growing medium for service berrys1. These palms need good drainage to prevent water-logged roots.
Water
Keep the potting media evenly moist, but not waterlogged. Don’t let the plant’s soil get too dry between watering or you’ll start to lose lower leaves.
Temperature and Humidity
This plant will grow fairly well in temperatures between 65 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. It prefers high humidity but can survive in ordinary household humidity levels. In colder climates where winter air can get very dry; running a humidifier can make the plants happier. Misting the plant daily will also ensure it gets the humidity it craves. Low humidity levels can encourage insect pests.
Some of the Garden hybrids
Since classifications have varied greatly over the past century, species names are often used interchangeably in the nursery trade. Several natural or horticultural hybrids also exist, and many A. arborea and A. canadensis plants that are offered for sale are actually hybrids, or entirely different species. A. × grandiflora is another hybrid of garden origin, between A. arborea and A. laevis.
A taxon called Amelanchier lamarckii (or A. x lamarckii) is very widely cultivated and naturalized in Europe, where it was introduced in the 17th century. It is apomictic, breeding true from seed, and probably of hybrid origin, perhaps descending from a cross between A. laevis and either A. arborea or A. canadensis. While A. lamarckii is known to be of North American origin, probably from eastern Canada, it is not known to occur naturally in the wild in North America.
Spanish Fork is a city in Utah County, Utah, United States. It is part of the Provo–Orem Metropolitan Statistical Area. The 2020 census reported a population of 42,602. Spanish Fork, Utah is the 20th largest city in Utah based on official 2017 estimates from the US Census Bureau.
TruCo is a great company to work with for your commercial landscaping and snow removal needs! Rob is excellent to work with. He is very timely in providing quotes and has a lot of great feedback and suggestions to provide on what will look great, fit within your budget, and is knowledgeable on plants that will thrive with Utah's ever changing weather conditions. I have been impressed with TruCo's landscape maintenance as well as landscape projects which have had a quick turnaround time. I would highly recommend using TruCo!
I experienced excellent all around service from landscape improvement design, scheduling and professional installation completed within the timeline we discussed. Rob, the manager does an excellent job of communicating, overseeing the install crew and making sure his customers are 100% satisfied with the job. Highly recommend TruCo for all landscaping needs.
Michael the tree guy is so smart. He knows all about tree removal, cutting and tree trimming services. Truco did amazing work for me. We had 16 very old and mature trees removed. The Truco team showed up on time ready to get the job done. They did amazing with clean up truly respect your property and your life. Communication was really good. They needed to move some things to get the stump grinder to our yard they put things back with no issues. Extremely professional and truly know what they're doing. If anyone is looking for professional tree removal or tree service you really should call Jason or Michael at Truco.
We hired TruCo to do a new install of sprinklers, sod, spigot, and bury downspouts. We even have a wifi transmitter for our control box we can access from an app on our phones! We absolutely love the professionalism and quality of their work!! Our sales rep Pete was the best to work with, we highly recommend him to anyone in the market for landscaping. It was awesome seeing the finished results and we're incredibly excited to enjoy our new space!
TruCo installed all of our plants, trees and shrubs, drip lines, and boulders. Then they installed our amazing beautiful firepit. We loved the results and they guarantee all plants and trees up to a year. They were great and easy to work with. They listened to our needs and wants and met them 100%. Our HOA sent us a letter telling us they appreciate all the work and the way our yard looks and let us know we added value to the property. Win/Win
All of the reliable and credible scientific literature done on acai is related to the antioxidant capacity and the oil composition of the berry. Companies promoting acai as a weight loss aid purposely conceal the contents of their product. They claim to provide a product in pill form that is acai. They fail to reveal what % of that pill is acai and whether it is made from freeze-dried or spray-dried powder. Acai does not possess the capacity to drive, create or stimulate weight loss. It is considered a superfood based on its nutritional profile. A superfood does not mean that it supports weight loss. The product being sold by this company does not work because it cannot work based on their claims.
If you try contacting any of the companies selling the miracle Acai diet pills, you will most likely be connected to an answering service. When you ask the service if they had a way to contact the company directly, you will probably be told that they did not have access to any phone numbers except for the toll number listed on the website. If you ask what the name of the company was for whom they were providing this service you will mostly likely find the business names to be unregistered, in other words, the company is hiding. They fail to provide a physical address, a reliable phone number to a company headquarters nor are they searchable via Google or the state they do business in.
These companies all have the ear marks of organizations involved in scamming the public. There is no recourse. In their terms of service and privacy statements they are very clear about taking the customers private information with the intent to sell and resell. In addition to this they clearly state that they will use ‘cookies’ an internet term of describing the act of monitoring their customers’ internet use. Essentially they say that when you buy a product from them they are not only going to sell and resell all of your private information but they say that the purchase in effect creates a contract with the customer that allows the company to monitor and spy on their customers so that they may gain more private information to sell and resell.
Here Is what the Terms of Service on one of the websites actually states:
1.2 Third Party List Information
XXXX collects information from individuals when an individual provides information to a third party and XXXX subsequently purchases, licenses, or otherwise acquires the information from the third party (the “Seller”). Such purchased information may include, but is not limited to, an individual’s name, email address, street address, zip code, telephone numbers (including cell phone numbers and carriers), birth date, gender, salary range, credit card information, education and marital status, occupation, industry of employment, personal and online interests, and such other information as the individual may have provided to the Seller (together, “Third Party List Information”). When acquiring Third Party List Information, XXXX seeks assurances from the Seller that the Seller has a right to transfer the Third Party List Information to XXXX and that the Seller has a right to provide offers from advertisers to the individuals whose personal information is included on the Seller’s list.
In other words, it appears to be a phishing scam. Their terms of service allows them, by a “contract”, to use your personal information any way they wish! Phishing refers to the process of tricking you into giving up personal details such as your bank account or credit card details, or your passwords. Phishing is prevalent on the internet today and you must be very careful of this phenomenon and protect your personal information.
Always check the terms of service and privacy policies of an online store before you buy anything. A reputable store should have trust icons such Hacker Safe, McAfee Secure or BBBOnline which validates a companies’ physical address, phone number which should also be listed on their home page or in their “About Us” page. You can also use a free plugin for your browser by McAfee.com called SiteAdvisor to indicate if a website is safe while you are doing searches in Google, yahoo or msn. If a website hasn’t been validated, you will see a question mark, otherwise the site will have a green checkmark. Also, some sites have been flagged if they have been caught sending spam emails or using fraudulent schemes.
Don’t be discouraged – there are legitimate acai juice companies out there. Don’t let a few fly-by-night companies give you the impression that acai is an ineffective product. If acai is taken in its original juice form, (not reconstituted with water or in pill form), it is a great natural energy drink rich with anti-oxidants.
The Berry Tree – Get Company Selling For You
The top reason people failed in multilevel marketing is they cannot sell. Is this happening to you? Imagine how great to have the company building business for you. Now it is possible with The Berry Tree. Does it solve your number one problem in multilevel marketing? Let me explain.
The Berry Tree is a new division formed by International partnership. In March 2008, this company recorded over $4 Million dollars in gross sales. The company developed a system with passive member in mind. In this system, you do not have to sponsor or recruit or sell anything though The Berry Tree has amazing products. You cannot find other program that can make similar offer.
You probably want to know how this system works. Can I succeed with The Berry Tree? How much do I have to invest? What do I get for joining this system?
It is the most exciting and unique aspects of The Berry Tree. You can earn on every single person in the entire company with patent pending compensation plan. If you cannot sell or recruit, just stay with the company. The company is giving out credit known as Berry Member Credit (BMC) for every two consecutive months. You can accumulate all member credit unless you are inactive for more than 28 days after your auto ship date. By that time, you will lose all the credit.
Every month you are qualified in bonus pool when your credit plus your personally sponsored active members equals ten. Pool share is making up of $5 from each active member. You must qualify in this first level for the triple your money back guarantee. The Berry Tree has its own online and offline marketing campaigns to increase its bonus pool.
Another advantage with Berry Member Credit is it will keep growing until you reach to next level of qualification where you can get additional amount from the bonus pool. You can sit back and let the system works for you. Further, the company guarantees your success or triples your money back.
All you have to do is becoming a full member of The Berry Tree. The monthly membership fee is $49.95 and $6 is added for shipping and handling of O2 Berry product. This makes total $55.95 a month. The membership fee covers both O2 Berry product and corporate advertising. Full member will be eligible to earn commissions.
Now The Berry Tree is offering free trial. You just need to pay $4.95 for shipping and handling. You get your own marketing website, one corporate marketing website, O2 Berry product and access to training portal. You get the chance to explore this system before you decide to join as full member.
The company is help you to get ahead faster by offering a free member credit if you become full member with first seven days of joining The Berry Tree from free trial. The company guarantees your success but this trial offer is not guaranteed to last forever. Take this advantage to start earning. That is not all. Do you know that you can receive up to two times of your credit? This allows you to reach the bonus pool in half the time!
Acai Berry and Glutathione – Why These Antioxidants Are Good For Your Body!
With many doctors, experts, and reliable professionals continuing to endorse the use of antioxidants, more and more people are becoming interested in searching for significant sources of this magical substance and applying it in their daily diet.
Acai, also known as a super fruit, is a good source of antioxidants, which include vitamin C and E, and naturally occurring plant chemicals called phytochemicals. With all these healthy ingredients, you are prevented from massive cell damage caused by free radicals, thus, promoting health and wellness. It can be found in any form of supplements – smoothies, juice, or pill – all provide the same benefits, especially if it is all pure and natural.
Your body, on the other hand, also has its own antioxidant properties. Glutathione, a combination of three amino acids – cysteine, glutamate, and glycine – is found within every cell. Because it exists within the cells, it plays a vital role in nutrient metabolism and regulation of cellular events. The highest concentration is found in the liver that is involved in the detoxification and elimination of body’s toxic wastes.
These two are good for your body as these help fight the free radicals produced by unhealthy foods, pollution, radiation, and cigarette smoking, which can cause certain diseases and aging. Aside from that, these also provide health benefits such as greater stamina, improved mental focus, reduced cholesterol level, strengthened immune system, and healthy skin. Most importantly, they can prevent certain diseases and cancer.
Therefore, you have to have adequate amounts of antioxidants in your body. Acai berry is a healthy choice to boost your natural body’s glutathione. The good news is that, this magical substance can also be found in your daily dose of fruits and vegetables.
Now you want to have more energy, be Healthier, look Younger, lose weight, and cleanse your body, right?
Eagle Mountain is a city in Utah County, Utah. It is part of the Provo–Orem metropolitan area. The city is located to the west as well as north of the Lake Mountains, which are west of Utah Lake. It was incorporated on 3 December 1996 and had been rapidly growing. The population was 43,623 at the 2020 census. Although Eagle Mountain was a town in 2000, it has since been classified as a fourth-class city by state law. In its short history, the city has quickly become known for its rapid growth.
TruCo is a great company to work with for your commercial landscaping and snow removal needs! Rob is excellent to work with. He is very timely in providing quotes and has a lot of great feedback and suggestions to provide on what will look great, fit within your budget, and is knowledgeable on plants that will thrive with Utah's ever changing weather conditions. I have been impressed with TruCo's landscape maintenance as well as landscape projects which have had a quick turnaround time. I would highly recommend using TruCo!
I experienced excellent all around service from landscape improvement design, scheduling and professional installation completed within the timeline we discussed. Rob, the manager does an excellent job of communicating, overseeing the install crew and making sure his customers are 100% satisfied with the job. Highly recommend TruCo for all landscaping needs.
Michael the tree guy is so smart. He knows all about tree removal, cutting and tree trimming services. Truco did amazing work for me. We had 16 very old and mature trees removed. The Truco team showed up on time ready to get the job done. They did amazing with clean up truly respect your property and your life. Communication was really good. They needed to move some things to get the stump grinder to our yard they put things back with no issues. Extremely professional and truly know what they're doing. If anyone is looking for professional tree removal or tree service you really should call Jason or Michael at Truco.
We hired TruCo to do a new install of sprinklers, sod, spigot, and bury downspouts. We even have a wifi transmitter for our control box we can access from an app on our phones! We absolutely love the professionalism and quality of their work!! Our sales rep Pete was the best to work with, we highly recommend him to anyone in the market for landscaping. It was awesome seeing the finished results and we're incredibly excited to enjoy our new space!
TruCo installed all of our plants, trees and shrubs, drip lines, and boulders. Then they installed our amazing beautiful firepit. We loved the results and they guarantee all plants and trees up to a year. They were great and easy to work with. They listened to our needs and wants and met them 100%. Our HOA sent us a letter telling us they appreciate all the work and the way our yard looks and let us know we added value to the property. Win/Win
Ponytail Palm Plant Care
Ponytail Palm Plant Care
Ponytail Palm Plant Profile
The ponytail palm (Beaucarnea recurvata) makes a surprisingly interesting desktop plant, considering that when grown outdoors it can be a full-size tree that towers over homes. When planted outside in full sun, ponytail palms can reach 30 feet tall, but they typically stay closer to 6 feet tall at maturity when grown indoors. Despite the common name and the appearance of the foliage, this plant is not a true palm, but rather a member of the Asparagaceae family that includes edible asparagus.
Indoors, these novel little trees are often grown in shallow pots, with a tuft of strappy green leaves emerging from a bulbous stem that seems to erupt from the soil. (The bulbous trunk is the source of one of its common names, “elephant’s foot.”) Given time and the right conditions, a small desktop plant will grow into respectable specimen plants, up to 6 feet in height or more. Ponytail palm is native to arid regions in Central America and is among the easiest of small trees to grow indoors.
When planted outdoors, spring is the traditional planting time, though a ponytail palm can be planted at almost any time. This is a very slow-growing, long-lived species. It may take five years or more for a 1-foot-tall plant to double in size.
Botanical Name Beaucarnea recurvata
Common Name Ponytail palm, elephant’s foot
Plant Type Broadleaf evergreen shrub/ tree
Mature Size 6 to 8 feet tall; 3- to 5-foot spread (up to 30 feet tall when planted outdoors)
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Sandy, well-draining soil
Soil pH 6.5 to 7.5 (neutral)
Bloom Time Seasonal bloomer
Flower Color Creamy white
Hardiness Zones 10 to 11 (USDA); usually grown as a houseplant
Native Area Semi-desert areas of Central America
How to Grow a Ponytail Palm
Ponytail palm can be grown as an outdoor plant only in USDA Zones 10 and 11, where it prefers a sandy soil in a full-sun location. When grown outdoors, it is best planted in a cactus/succulent potting mix and placed in the sunniest spot you can find; in the right location, it is largely trouble-free, provided it gets a modest amount of water at regular intervals.
As an indoor plant, the ponytail is basically a “plant it and forget it” kind of plant, providing it has enough light to thrive and somewhat steady water throughout the growing season. Keep in mind, though, that the ponytail palm is an extremely slow-growing plant, so don’t expect your desktop plant to transform into a corner specimen in one or two growing seasons.
Light
Ponytail palms like full sun or bright indirect light. When grown as an indoor plant, situate it in the brightest location you can find—a window that gets direct sun or plenty of indirect light.
Soil
This plant is native to semi-desert areas of Central America, and when planted outdoors it does best in relatively sandy but organically rich soil. As in indoor plant, it does well in a cactus/succulent potting mix augmented with peat to improve its richness.
Water
For potted indoor plants, water a ponytail palm during the growing season every seven to 14 days. The bulbous stem stores water, so be careful not to overwater it. During the winter season, cut back watering to monthly.
A ponytail palm planted in the garden rarely needs to be watered if you get any kind of regular rain. In dry climates or during periods of drought, a modest watering every two weeks is sufficient.
Temperature and Humidity
Ponytail palms prefer warm, arid temperatures, above 60 degrees Fahrenheit. However, they will survive down to 50 degrees Fahrenheit, providing these temps are not prolonged.
Fertilizer
Feed weekly with liquid fertilizer during the growing season, or use a slow-release pellet fertilizer in the spring. Reduce feeding during the winter.
Potting and Repotting
For growing indoors, pot a ponytail palm in a smallish container filled with a cactus/ succulent potting mix that is blended with some peat. Repot in the spring as needed. If your goal is to grow a large palm tree, repot it every year, but if you want to keep it smaller, repot every two or three years. Ponytail palms will thrive when slightly underpotted in a container that confines the roots.
Propagating Ponytail Palms
Ponytail palms sometimes develop offsets (“pups”) from the base, which can be removed and potted up individually. Generally, however, this is a difficult task to master because of a lack of roots on the offsets. If you want to try, use a rooting hormone to stimulate new root growth on the offset. A ponytail palm rarely (if ever) flowers indoors to produce viable seeds.
Pruning a Ponytail Palm
Damaged leaves should have the tips trimmed off back to healthy tissue. If the offsets (“pups”) send up secondary shoots, you can prune these away to maintain a central trunk and classic tree-like appearance. However, a multi-stemmed tree is often desirable, and many people welcome these secondary shoots.
Common Pests/Diseases
Like most houseplants, a ponytail palm can be susceptible to spider mites, mealybugs, and scale. Horticultural soaps or oils are good non-toxic methods for controlling these pests.
Potential but rare disease problems include leaf spots, stem rots, and bacterial leaf streak. Watering too much is the most common cause of fungal problems and stem rot.
Ponytail palms are unique-looking, long-lived indoor plants that thrive on benign neglect. They are very easy to grow, provided that you don’t overwater them! Here’s how to grow and care for a ponytail palm in your home.
About Ponytail Palms
Despite its name and palm-like appearance, the ponytail palm is not a true “palm.” In fact, it is more closely related to desert plants in the Agave and Yucca genera (such as Joshua trees).
The typical ponytail palm consists of a large, domed “stump,” which tapers off into a thinner stem. From the top of the stem, one or more rosettes of long, green, leathery leaves develop as the plant ages. Indoors, the leaves can get up to 3 feet long, but outdoors, they may be double that length.
In its native environment (eastern Mexico), the entire plant has been known to reach up to 30 feet in height! However, ponytail palms that are grown in gardens as landscape plants don’t usually get to be more than 10 feet tall. Kept indoors, they are rarely taller than 4 feet.
Care of this plant is generally simple; the most common difficulty is having to adapt your watering habits to its watering needs!
PLANTING
Choosing Soil and a Pot
Use a fast draining soil, such as a cacti and succulent potting mix. If you have potting soil, sand, and perlite already on hand, you can create your own desert soil mixture: Simply mix 1 part potting soil, 1 part perlite, and 1 part sand.
Select a pot that has a hole in the bottom, so that excess water can be drained off. Ponytail palms do not like to sit in moist soil for very long.
Use a clay pot if possible; the porous material will absorb some of the water, drying out the soil more quickly (a good thing for cacti and succulents).
GROWING
How to Care for Ponytail Palms
Ponytail palms prefer to have as much light as possible, so place the plant in a bright location. Bright, indirect sunlight is best.
Keep soil fairly dry. Water from spring through fall, allowing the top inch or two of soil to dry completely before re-watering. During the winter, only water occasionally.
To water, soak the soil and allow the excess water to drain through the bottom of the pot into a dish. Let the pot sit in the dish for several minutes, then dump out any remaining water in the dish.
Fertilize in the spring with a cacti/succulent fertilizer and bring into a brighter room for the summer months.
Normal room temperature is fine for most of the year, but keep the plant slightly cooler in the winter (50-55°F / 10-13°C) to replicate the natural dormancy cycle.
During winter, don’t let the plant sit too close to cold windows at night, as it can be severely damaged by freezing temperatures.
Repotting a Ponytail Palm
Ponytail palms will remain small if kept in a small pot. They can go for many years before needing to be repotted. Repotting every other year at the most is all a ponytail palm needs.
Moving the plant to a larger pot will give it room to grow in both height and girth. However, older plants may become difficult to manage due to their sheer size and weight if not kept on the smaller size.
When selecting a new pot, pick one large enough to leave about an inch or so of space between the ponytail palm’s trunk and the rim of the pot.
Note: Use caution when handling a ponytail palm, as its leaves have tiny serrated edges.
HARVESTING
Propagation
Rarely, a ponytail palm may produce an offset—a small baby plant that stems from the base of the adult plant. These can be cut off at the base when they reach at least 4 inches in height and planted in a succulent potting mix. Before planting, allow the cut wound to heal, then apply a bit of rooting hormone (available online and in nurseries) to encourage the offset to root.
WIT AND WISDOM
The plant’s unusual shape and coloration has granted it another strange nickname: the Elephant’s Foot Palm.
Are ponytail palms poisonous to cats? While the leaves of a ponytail palm are not toxic to feline (or canine) companions, their foliage does have abrasive edges that could irritate a pet’s mouth, so we suggest keeping the plant out of reach.
PESTS/DISEASES
Overwatering can result in stem rot. If you withhold watering, the plant may be able to internally remedy the problem. Signs of stem rot include yellowing leaves and a caudex (the plant’s base and stem) that is soft or squishy.
Spider mites and scale insects may find their way to the leaves, but can be dealt with by rubbing a cloth of dish soap and water on the stems. Spider mites are evidenced by the presence of spider-like webbing on the plant.
Brown tips on leaves can be a sign of over fertilizing or under watering, so adjust your husbandry practices appropriately. They can also be a sign that the plant is getting too much direct sunlight and too little water.
Draper is a city in Salt Lake and Utah counties in the U.S. state of Utah, about 20 miles (32 km) south of Salt Lake City along the Wasatch Front. As of the 2020 census, the population is 51,017, up from 7,143 in 1990.
TruCo is a great company to work with for your commercial landscaping and snow removal needs! Rob is excellent to work with. He is very timely in providing quotes and has a lot of great feedback and suggestions to provide on what will look great, fit within your budget, and is knowledgeable on plants that will thrive with Utah's ever changing weather conditions. I have been impressed with TruCo's landscape maintenance as well as landscape projects which have had a quick turnaround time. I would highly recommend using TruCo!
I experienced excellent all around service from landscape improvement design, scheduling and professional installation completed within the timeline we discussed. Rob, the manager does an excellent job of communicating, overseeing the install crew and making sure his customers are 100% satisfied with the job. Highly recommend TruCo for all landscaping needs.
Michael the tree guy is so smart. He knows all about tree removal, cutting and tree trimming services. Truco did amazing work for me. We had 16 very old and mature trees removed. The Truco team showed up on time ready to get the job done. They did amazing with clean up truly respect your property and your life. Communication was really good. They needed to move some things to get the stump grinder to our yard they put things back with no issues. Extremely professional and truly know what they're doing. If anyone is looking for professional tree removal or tree service you really should call Jason or Michael at Truco.
We hired TruCo to do a new install of sprinklers, sod, spigot, and bury downspouts. We even have a wifi transmitter for our control box we can access from an app on our phones! We absolutely love the professionalism and quality of their work!! Our sales rep Pete was the best to work with, we highly recommend him to anyone in the market for landscaping. It was awesome seeing the finished results and we're incredibly excited to enjoy our new space!
TruCo installed all of our plants, trees and shrubs, drip lines, and boulders. Then they installed our amazing beautiful firepit. We loved the results and they guarantee all plants and trees up to a year. They were great and easy to work with. They listened to our needs and wants and met them 100%. Our HOA sent us a letter telling us they appreciate all the work and the way our yard looks and let us know we added value to the property. Win/Win
Planting A Lemon Tree
Planting A Lemon Tree
How to plant and grow lemons
Lemon trees make an excellent addition to almost every backyard and if you get the growing process right, you’re ensured a regular, plentiful crop. The good news? It’s easier than you think to grow your own lemons – great news for all the foodies out there!
Lemon tree varieties
The most common varieties grown in Australia are Eureka, Lisbon and Meyer. Eureka produces its main crop in winter with smaller crops in spring and summer. Eureka lemons have relatively few seeds and the tree is virtually thornless growing to around four metres in height.
Lisbon is thornier and produces its main crop in winter and tends to be more cold tolerant. It grows around three to four metres tall.
Meyers has a milder, less acidic flavour with a smooth, thin rind. Its main crop is produced in winter but it can crop continuously throughout the year. It’s a small tree growing to around two metres in height, making it the ideal lemon tree to grow in a pot.
How to grow a lemon tree
Climate
The preferred climate depends on the variety of lemon, however most do well in warm climates. They tolerate drought but are sensitive to frost.
Aspect
Lemon trees require a position in full sunlight that is protected from winds and frost. If you’re growing a lemon tree in a cooler climate, plant it close to a brick wall so it can utilise the radiating heat.
Soil
Lemon trees can tolerate a range of different soils but they mostly prefer slightly acidic, well-drained soil.
Planting
You can plant lemon trees at any time of year in warmer climates, as long as you water regularly. In cold regions plant in spring to protect it from late frosts.
Citrus will thrive in large pots – choose one that is 50cm in diameter or more, with plenty of drainage holes, and fill with a premium quality potting mix. It’s a great idea to stand your pot on a trolley so you can easily move the pot to a sunnier or more protected position with the changing seasons.
If you’re planting a lemon tree in the garden, start by digging a hole twice a wide and as deep as the pot your citrus comes in. Remove it from the pot and inspect the roots, untangling any that appear to be circling around or those that are tightly packed into the shape of the pot. Plant so that the original soil level in the pot is level with your garden soil. Backfill the hole with the removed crumbled soil, and work compost or well-rotted cow manure into the top 10cm of soil. Add a mulch of straw to the soil surface, but keep this away from the trunk. Water immediately after planting and from then on keep the soil slightly moist.
Water
Lemons grow best in soils that are moist but not soggy. Water your tree every seven to 10 days during the summer, providing it with 4 to 6 inches of water each month. Allow the soil around mature trees to partially dry between waterings. Overwatered lemon trees may suffer from crown and root rots, while those not watered enough frequently shed blossoms and don’t produce as much fruit.
Feeding
Citrus produce loads of fruit! All that flowering and fruiting is a big consumer of energy so make sure you feed up your lemon tree to ensure further crops. You can tell if your tree is undernourished by poor stunted growth or yellowing leaves. Feed twice a year with citrus food, once in February and again in August. Follow the directions on the packet and water the soil well both before and after applying the fertiliser.
How to prune lemon trees
Pruning lemon trees is important for growing healthier and more plentiful fruit.
It’s best to prune your lemon tree from late winter to early spring, right after harvest. Young trees should be pruned to establish a good shape, remove any sprouts or weak limbs so the plant can focus on growing a strong canopy.
When to harvest your lemons
Lemon trees generally take around two to three years to bear fruit and harvesting depends on the variety of plant. Eurekas produce fruit two to three time a year while Lisbons fruit once a year.
Lemons are ready to harvest when they have developed full colour and flavour. Harvest lemons when their peels are yellow or only a green tinge, with a slightly glossy appearance. The longer the fruit stays on the tree the sweeter it will become so some suggest picking and tasting your fruit to determine how the crop is developing.
To pick lemons, use the twist, tilt and snap method. Take the entire fruit in your hand and twist it gently, tilting and pulling away until it breaks free.
How to propagate a lemon tree
To propagate a lemon tree it’s best to take a cutting in late spring or early summer. Choose a 15 centimetre piece of a healthy young branch without fruit or flowers and at least two to three nodes at the base. Us a non-serrated, sanitised knife to cut the stem at a 90-degree angle. Wrap cuttings in a moist paper towel to prevent dehydration.
Remove bottom leaves so the cutting has only three or so leaves at the top and dust the bottom with a hormone-based rooting powder. Plant the cutting in a large, well-draining pot with seed starter mix and cover it with a large clear plastic bag to create a warm, humid environment. Use chopsticks, wire or dowel to keep the bag from resting on the cutting. Keep the soil moist.
Once roots develop, remove the plastic covering. After a few days move the cutting outside in a sheltered location. Once the roots of the plant nearly fill its pot its time to plant it in a larger pot or garden.
Pests and disease
Scale insect: Found on stems and leaves, they have a waxy brown shell. Spray these sap-sucking insects with organic eco oil.
Leaf Miner: Tiny burrowing mites causing silvery trails and twisted leaves. They attack only fresh new leaves, so spray the new growth once a fortnight with eco oil until the leaves have matured and turned a dark green colour.
Stink bugs: May appear in large numbers from October. Knock them off the branches and squish them underfoot, but wear protective goggles as then bugs can squirt a painful liquid into your eyes.
Sooty mould: A black crusty coating on the leaves indicating the presence of a sap-sucking insect lurking higher up, such as aphids, scale or mealybugs. Treat the insect above and the sooty mould will clear up by itself. The mould is not harmful, it just looks yucky.
As long as you provide their basic needs, growing lemons can be a very rewarding experience. Outdoors Lemons are more cold-sensitive than all other citrus trees. Due to this cold sensitivity, lemon trees should be planted near the south side of the home. Lemon trees need protection from frost. Growing them near the house should help with this. Lemon trees also require full sunlight for adequate growth. While lemon trees can tolerate a range of soils, including poor soil, most prefer well-drained, slightly acidic soil. Lemon trees should be set slightly higher than ground. Therefore, dig a hole somewhat shallower than the length of the root ball. Place the tree in the hole and replace soil, tamping firmly as you go. Water sufficiently and add some mulch to help retain moisture. Lemon trees require deep watering once weekly. If necessary, pruning may be done to maintain their shape and height. Indoors Lemons can make excellent houseplants and will be comfortable in a container as long it provides adequate drainage and room for growth. Heights of around 3 to 5 feet (1-1.5 m.) can be expected for a lemon tree growing indoors. They also prefer well-draining, slightly acidic soil. Keep the soil evenly moist and fertilize as needed. Lemon trees thrive within a normal temperature range of about 70 F. (21 C.) throughout the day and 55 F. (13 C.) at night. Keep in mind that they will usually go into dormancy when temperatures fall below 55 F. (13 C.) Lemon trees require lots of light; therefore, they may need to be supplemented with fluorescent grow lights during winter. Explore More Lemon trees can be placed outdoors during warm periods, which is also recommended in order to increase their chances of bearing fruit. When you grow a lemon tree indoors, bees and other insects are unable to pollinate them.
Therefore, you should place them outdoors during summer unless you want to hand pollinate. Propagating for Lemon Tree Cultivation Many lemon trees are container-grown, purchased straight from the nursery. However, they can be propagated through cuttings, air layering, and seeds. The variety usually dictates the best method used; yet, different people see different results using different methods. Therefore, it’s best to find the method that works for you. The majority find it easier to propagate lemons by rooting large cuttings. While seeds can be used, the seedlings are usually slow to bear. When choosing to grow from seeds, allow them to dry out for a week or two. Once dried, plant the seeds about an inch deep in good potting soil and cover with clear plastic wrap. Set the pot in a sunny location and wait for it to reach 6 to 12 inches (15-30 cm.) before transplanting outdoors or to another pot.
Murray is a city situated on the Wasatch Front in the core of Salt Lake Valley in the U.S. state of Utah. Named for territorial governor Eli Murray, it is the state's fourteenth largest city. According to the 2020 census, Murray had a population of 50,637.
Murray shares borders with Taylorsville, Holladay, South Salt Lake and West Jordan, Utah. Once teeming with heavy industry, Murray's industrial sector now has little trace and has been replaced by major mercantile sectors. Known for its central location in Salt Lake County, Murray has been called the Hub of Salt Lake County. Unlike most of its neighboring communities, Murray operates its own police, fire, power, water, library, and parks and recreation departments and has its own school district. While maintaining many of its own services, Murray has one of the lowest city tax rates in the state.
TruCo is a great company to work with for your commercial landscaping and snow removal needs! Rob is excellent to work with. He is very timely in providing quotes and has a lot of great feedback and suggestions to provide on what will look great, fit within your budget, and is knowledgeable on plants that will thrive with Utah's ever changing weather conditions. I have been impressed with TruCo's landscape maintenance as well as landscape projects which have had a quick turnaround time. I would highly recommend using TruCo!
I experienced excellent all around service from landscape improvement design, scheduling and professional installation completed within the timeline we discussed. Rob, the manager does an excellent job of communicating, overseeing the install crew and making sure his customers are 100% satisfied with the job. Highly recommend TruCo for all landscaping needs.
Michael the tree guy is so smart. He knows all about tree removal, cutting and tree trimming services. Truco did amazing work for me. We had 16 very old and mature trees removed. The Truco team showed up on time ready to get the job done. They did amazing with clean up truly respect your property and your life. Communication was really good. They needed to move some things to get the stump grinder to our yard they put things back with no issues. Extremely professional and truly know what they're doing. If anyone is looking for professional tree removal or tree service you really should call Jason or Michael at Truco.
We hired TruCo to do a new install of sprinklers, sod, spigot, and bury downspouts. We even have a wifi transmitter for our control box we can access from an app on our phones! We absolutely love the professionalism and quality of their work!! Our sales rep Pete was the best to work with, we highly recommend him to anyone in the market for landscaping. It was awesome seeing the finished results and we're incredibly excited to enjoy our new space!
TruCo installed all of our plants, trees and shrubs, drip lines, and boulders. Then they installed our amazing beautiful firepit. We loved the results and they guarantee all plants and trees up to a year. They were great and easy to work with. They listened to our needs and wants and met them 100%. Our HOA sent us a letter telling us they appreciate all the work and the way our yard looks and let us know we added value to the property. Win/Win
Tree Pruning
Tree Pruning
The main reasons for pruning ornamental and shade trees include safety, health, and aesthetics. In addition, pruning can be used to stimulate fruit production and increase the value of timber. Pruning for safety involves removing branches that could fall and cause injury or property damage, trimming branches that interfere with lines of sight on streets or driveways, and removing branches that grow into utility lines. Safety pruning can be largely avoided by carefully choosing species that will not grow beyond the space available to them, and have strength and form characteristics that are suited to the site.
Pruning for health involves removing diseased or insect-infested wood, thinning the crown to increase airflow and reduce some pest problems, and removing crossing and rubbing branches. Pruning can best be used to encourage trees to develop a strong structure and reduce the likelihood of damage during severe weather. Removing broken or damaged limbs encourage wound closure.
Pruning for aesthetics involves enhancing the natural form and character of trees or stimulating flower production. Pruning for form can be especially important on open grown trees that do very little self-pruning.
All woody plants shed branches in response to shading and competition. Branches that do not produce enough carbohydrates from photosynthesis to sustain themselves die and are eventually shed; the resulting wounds are sealed by woundwood (callus). Branches that are poorly attached may be broken off by wind and accumulation of snow and ice. Branches removed by such natural forces often result in large, ragged wounds that rarely seal. Pruning as a cultural practice can be used to supplement or replace these natural processes and increase the strength and longevity of plants.
Trees have many forms, but the most common types are pyramidal (excurrent) or spherical (decurrent). Trees with pyramidal crowns, e.g., most conifers, have a strong central stem and lateral branches that are more or less horizontal and do not compete with the central stem for dominance. Trees with spherical crowns, e.g., most hardwoods, have many lateral branches that may compete for dominance. To reduce the need for pruning it is best to consider a tree’s natural form. It is very difficult to impose an unnatural form on a tree without a commitment to constant maintenance.
Pollarding and topiary are extreme examples of pruning to create a desired, unnatural effect. Pollarding is the practice of pruning trees annually to remove all new growth. The following year, a profusion of new branches is produced at the ends of the branches. Topiary involves pruning trees and shrubs into geometric or animal shapes. Both pollarding and topiary are specialized applications that involve pruning to change the natural form of trees. As topiary demonstrates, given enough care and attention plants can be pruned into nearly any form. Yet just as proper pruning can enhance the form or character of plants, improper pruning can destroy it.
Pruning Approaches
Producing strong structure should be the emphasis when pruning young trees. As trees mature, the aim of pruning will shift to maintaining tree structure, form, health and appearance.
Proper pruning cuts are made at a node, the point at which one branch or twig attaches to another. In the spring of the year growth begins at buds, and twigs grow until a new node is formed. The length of a branch between nodes is called an internode.
Crown thinning – branches to be removed are shaded in blue; pruning cuts should be made at the red lines. No more than one-fourth of the living branches should be removed at one time.
The most common types of pruning are:
Crown thinning, primarily for hardwoods, is the selective removal of branches to increase light penetration and air movement throughout the crown of a tree. The intent is to maintain or develop a tree’s structure and form. To avoid unnecessary stress and prevent excessive production of epicormic sprouts, no more than one-quarter of the living crown should be removed at a time. If it is necessary to remove more, it should be done over successive years.
Types of branch unions
Branches with strong U-shaped angles of attachment should be retained. Branches with narrow, V-shaped angles of attachment often form included bark and should be removed. Included bark forms when two branches grow at sharply acute angles to one another, producing a wedge of inward-rolled bark between them. Included bark prevents strong attachment of branches, often causing a crack at the point below where the branches meet. Codominant stems that are approximately the same size and arise from the same position often form included bark. Removing some of the lateral branches from a codominant stem can reduce its growth enough to allow the other stem to become dominant.
Lateral branches should be no more than one half to three-quarters of the diameter of the stem at the point of attachment. Avoid producing “lion’s tails,” tufts of branches and foliage at the ends of branches, caused by removing all inner lateral branches and foliage. Lion’s tails can result in sunscalding, abundant epicormic sprouts, and weak branch structure and breakage.
Crown raising is the practice of removing branches from the bottom of the crown of a tree to provide clearance for pedestrians, vehicles, buildings, lines of site, or to develop a clear stem for timber production. Also, removing lower branches on white pines can prevent blister rust. For street trees the minimum clearance is often specified by municipal ordinance. After pruning, the ratio of the living crown to total tree height should be at least two-thirds.
On young trees “temporary” branches may be retained along the stem to encourage taper and protect trees from vandalism and sun scald. Less vigorous shoots should be selected as temporary branches and should be about 10 to 15 cm apart along the stem. They should be pruned annually to slow their growth and should be removed eventually.
Crown reduction pruning is most often used when a tree has grown too large for its permitted space. This method, sometimes called drop crotch pruning, is preferred to topping because it results in a more natural appearance, increases the time before pruning is needed again, and minimizes stress.
Crown reduction pruning, a method of last resort, often results in large pruning wounds to stems that may lead to decay. This method should never be used on a tree with a pyramidal growth form. A better long term solution is to remove the tree and replace it
Crown reduction – branches to be removed are shaded in blue; pruning cuts should be made where indicated with red lines. To prevent branch dieback, cuts should be made at lateral branches that are at least one-third the diameter of the stem at their union.
Pruning Cuts
Pruning cuts should be made so that only branch tissue is removed and stem tissue is not damaged. At the point where the branch attaches to the stem, branch and stem tissues remain separate, but are contiguous. If only branch tissues are cut when pruning, the stem tissues of the tree will probably not become decayed, and the wound will seal more effectively.
1. Pruning living branches
To find the proper place to cut a branch, look for the branch collar that grows from the stem tissue at the underside of the base of the branch. On the upper surface, there is usually a branch bark ridge that runs (more or less) parallel to the branch angle, along the stem of the tree. A proper pruning cut does not damage either the branch bark ridge or the branch collar.
A proper cut begins just outside the branch bark ridge and angles down away from the stem of the tree, avoiding injury to the branch collar. Make the cut as close as possible to the stem in the branch axil, but outside the branch bark ridge, so that stem tissue is not injured and the wound can seal in the shortest time possible. If the cut is too far from the stem, leaving a branch stub, the branch tissue usually dies and wound wood forms from the stem tissue. Wound closure is delayed because the wound wood must seal over the stub that was left.
The quality of pruning cuts can be evaluated by examining pruning wounds after one growing season. A concentric ring of wound wood will form from proper pruning cuts. Flush cuts made inside the branch bark ridge or branch collar, result in pronounced development of wound wood on the sides of the pruning wounds with very little wound wood forming on the top or bottom. As described above, stub cuts result in the death of the remaining branch and wound wood forms around the base from stem tissues. When pruning small branches with hand pruners, make sure the tools are sharp enough branch collar. This cut will prevent a falling branch from tearing the stem tissue as it pulls away from the tree.
1. The second cut should be outside the first cut, all the way through the branch, leaving a short stub.
2. The stub is then cut just outside the branch bark ridge/branch collar, completing the operation.
2. Pruning dead branches
Prune dead branches in much the same way as live branches. Making the correct cut is usually easy because the branch collar and the branch bark ridge, can be distinguished from the dead branch, because they continue to grow (Fig. 6A). Make the pruning cut just outside of the ring of woundwood tissue that has formed, being careful not to cause unnecessary injury (Fig. 6C). Large dead branches should be supported with one hand or cut with the threestep method, just as live branches. Cutting large living branches with the three step method is more critical because of the greater likelihood of bark ripping.
3. Drop Crotch Cuts
A proper cut begins just above the branch bark ridge and extends through the stem parallel to the branch bark ridge. Usually, the stem being removed is too large to be supported with one hand, so the three cut method should be used.
1. With the first cut, make a notch on the side of the stem away from the branch to be retained, well above the branch crotch.
2. Begin the second cut inside the branch crotch, staying well above the branch bark ridge, and cut through the stem above the notch.
3. Cut the remaining stub just inside the branch bark ridge through the stem parallel to the branch bark ridge.
To prevent the abundant growth of epicormics sprouts on the stem below the cut, or dieback of the stem to a lower lateral branch, make the cut at a lateral branch that is at least one-third of the diameter of the stem at their union.
South Jordan is a city in south central Salt Lake County, Utah, United States, 18 miles (29 km) south of Salt Lake City. Part of the Salt Lake City metropolitan area, the city lies in the Salt Lake Valley along the banks of the Jordan River between the 10,000-foot (3,000 m) Oquirrh Mountains and the 11,000-foot (3,400 m) Wasatch Mountains. The city has 3.5 miles (5.6 km) of the Jordan River Parkway that contains fishing ponds, trails, parks, and natural habitats. The Salt Lake County fair grounds and equestrian park, 67-acre (27 ha) Oquirrh Lake, and 37 public parks are located inside the city. As of 2020, there were 77,487 people in South Jordan.
TruCo is a great company to work with for your commercial landscaping and snow removal needs! Rob is excellent to work with. He is very timely in providing quotes and has a lot of great feedback and suggestions to provide on what will look great, fit within your budget, and is knowledgeable on plants that will thrive with Utah's ever changing weather conditions. I have been impressed with TruCo's landscape maintenance as well as landscape projects which have had a quick turnaround time. I would highly recommend using TruCo!
I experienced excellent all around service from landscape improvement design, scheduling and professional installation completed within the timeline we discussed. Rob, the manager does an excellent job of communicating, overseeing the install crew and making sure his customers are 100% satisfied with the job. Highly recommend TruCo for all landscaping needs.
Michael the tree guy is so smart. He knows all about tree removal, cutting and tree trimming services. Truco did amazing work for me. We had 16 very old and mature trees removed. The Truco team showed up on time ready to get the job done. They did amazing with clean up truly respect your property and your life. Communication was really good. They needed to move some things to get the stump grinder to our yard they put things back with no issues. Extremely professional and truly know what they're doing. If anyone is looking for professional tree removal or tree service you really should call Jason or Michael at Truco.
We hired TruCo to do a new install of sprinklers, sod, spigot, and bury downspouts. We even have a wifi transmitter for our control box we can access from an app on our phones! We absolutely love the professionalism and quality of their work!! Our sales rep Pete was the best to work with, we highly recommend him to anyone in the market for landscaping. It was awesome seeing the finished results and we're incredibly excited to enjoy our new space!
TruCo installed all of our plants, trees and shrubs, drip lines, and boulders. Then they installed our amazing beautiful firepit. We loved the results and they guarantee all plants and trees up to a year. They were great and easy to work with. They listened to our needs and wants and met them 100%. Our HOA sent us a letter telling us they appreciate all the work and the way our yard looks and let us know we added value to the property. Win/Win
Palm Plants Indoor
Palm Plants Indoor
Some Types of Palm Plants to Grow Indoors
With simple care tips, these palm plants can add lush greenery to your space.
An areca palm growing indoors
The Spruce / Alonda Baird
Perhaps because of their association with tropical environments, indoor palm plants can elicit feelings of peace and relaxation like no other houseplant can. Palms are good indoor plants if you can provide the proper conditions for them. So indoor palm plant identification is key to know what your exact species needs.
Several types of indoor palm trees, including the areca palm and parlor palm, tolerate most household environments quite well. But there are some important factors to consider about indoor palm plant care.
Indoor Palm Plant Care Tips
How you care for an indoor palm plant is similar to many other houseplants that come from the tropics. Most types of indoor palm trees like the same conditions we find comfortable: warm temperatures, average humidity, and moderate light. Some indoor palm plants can even tolerate low light, though this usually will result in weaker growth.
Palms are generally slow-growing and need minimal pruning to clean up dead and broken fronds. They’ll require a quality palm fertilizer to help maintain lush growth. And you must watch out for common houseplant pests, such as spider mites and scale.
Here are some of the easiest palms to grow indoors to add a breezy, tropical feel to your home:
Chinese Fan Palm (Livistona chinensis)
Chinese fan palm with feathery frond leaves in white ceramic pot next to houseplants
The Spruce / Kara Riley
The star-shaped leaves of Livistona chinensis set it apart from other palms with the more classic feathery fronds. While it’s slow-growing, this palm species’ mature height can reach 15 feet or greater. So it’s worth seeking out the subglobosa dwarf cultivar if you plan on growing the palm indoors.
Chinese fan palms do well in bright light, but younger plants can tolerate shady locations. Water when the top of the soil feels dry. Choose a large pot that will accommodate the long taproot that the Chinese fan palm produces. And feed this palm once a year in the spring with a slow-release fertilizer.
Light: Bright, indirect light; tolerates some shade
Water: Moderately moist soil
Color Varieties: Emerald green foliage
Areca Palm (Dypsis lutescens)
An areca palm growing indoors
The Spruce / Alonda Baird
Also known as the bamboo palm, the areca palm (Dypsis lutescens) is one of the easiest palms to grow indoors thanks to its tolerance for low light. It produces large, feathery green fronds that have a gentle curve.
The areca palm prefers a moderate amount of water. Plant your areca palm in fertile soil, and give it a monthly fertilizer application to maintain a lush look.
Light: Sun or shade but looks its best in bright, indirect light
Water: Moderately moist soil
Color Varieties: Yellow-green stems and light green leaves
Majesty Palm (Ravenea rivularis)
Majestic palm in wicker basket with tall dark green fronds
The Spruce / Kara Riley
The majesty palm (Ravenea rivularis) has two positive qualities that make it an ideal palm that will grow indoors: It is very shade tolerant, and it is a slow grower. However, you must be aware of two drawbacks of this palm: It needs constant moisture and humidity, and it will outgrow an indoor space over time.
If you can keep your majesty palm in a reasonably moist area, such as the kitchen or bathroom, then you can look forward to cultivating a graceful stand of dark green fronds that will add life to an empty corner of your home.
Light: Bright, indirect light for the entire day
Water: Consistently moist soil
Color Varieties: Bright green to dark green leaves
Cascade Palm (Chamaedorea cataractarum)
Green palm foliage tree isolated
As opposed to some palm trees that feature a central trunk, Chamaedorea cataractarum is a very full palm with clumps of fronds eventually reaching 6 feet tall. You’ll be able to separate mature clumps, giving you new plant material to propagate by division.
In its native habitat, the cascade palm thrives along streams and in wet lowlands, so you must irrigate it frequently when growing it indoors. Fortunately for indoor growth, cascade palms are understory plants, so they can tolerate limited light.
Light: Bright, indirect light; tolerates shade; avoid direct sunlight
Water: Consistently moist soil
Color Varieties: Dark green leaves
Parlor Palm (Chamaedorea elegans)
Parlor palm in gold pot with small green fronds on shelf next to décor items
The Spruce / Krystal Slagle
As the name suggests, the parlor palm (Chamaedorea elegans) is one of the easiest palms to grow indoors. It grows in average indoor light (or even artificial light) and typical room temperatures. And it requires no pruning other than an occasional tidying of dead branches.
Parlor palms flourish in above-average humidity. Be aware they might attract spider mites if conditions are very dry.
Light: Indirect light; avoid direct sun
Water: Consistently moist soil
Color Varieties: Light green leaves
Ponytail Palm (Beaucarnea recurvata)
Ponytail palm in white pot with long wispy fronds next to gold watering can and patterned pillows
The Spruce / Lisa Ruschioni
Indoor palm plant identification should be fairly easy for the ponytail palm (Beaucarnea recurvata), with its short, sturdy trunk and gracefully arching leaves. In fact, this plant is not a true palm at all but rather a succulent.
The swollen trunk base isn’t just ornamental; it functions as a water reservoir for the plant, making it very drought tolerant. Give your ponytail palm a sunny location for optimal plant health. Moreover, it’s fine for the ponytail palm to become pot bound; in fact, this can keep growth manageable for a tabletop specimen.
Light: Full sun; tolerates bright, indirect light
Water: Moderately moist soil, will tolerate dry conditions
Color Varieties: Light green leaves
Sago Palm (Cycas revoluta)
Sago palm in white pot with shaggy pineapple-like trunk and feather-like fronds next to white watering can and window
The Spruce / Anastasia Tretiak
If the sago palm is your first introduction to the world of indoor palm plants, you’re in for a treat. Stiff fronds grow in an upright habit from a short, shaggy trunk that resembles a pineapple. This plant (which is not a true palm but more closely related to conifers) is very slow-growing.
Choose an indoor location that receives filtered sun for four to six hours per day. The sago palm needs regular and consistent moisture, but make sure the soil surface is nearly dry between water applications.
Light: Full sun or bright, indirect light; tolerates some shade
Water: Moderately moist soil
Color Varieties: Light green leaves
The sago palm is toxic to humans and pets. So be mindful about its placement as a houseplant if you have kids or animals.
Yucca Palm (Yucca elephantipes)
Yucca palm with sharp leaves in corner of living room
The Spruce / Krystal Slagle
Indoor palm plant identification is very important when it comes to yucca palms. Yucca aloifolia, also known as the Spanish bayonet, has razor-sharp leaves and belongs outdoors. Yucca elephantipes is the spineless yucca palm, and while its leaves do have a pointy tip, the plant is unlikely to draw blood like its spiny cousin.
You might also see the indoor yucca palm sold under the name “stick yucca.” Tough strappy green leaves emerge from an attractive trunk on the yucca palm. The plants are very drought tolerant and grow in full sun or part shade.
Light: Full sun to part shade
Water: Moderately moist soil
Color Varieties: Light green to bluish-green
Palm plant Care
Successfully growing palm plant requires carefully balancing several factors: heat, light, and fertilization. Plants that are over-fertilized and grown in warm conditions, but not given enough light, will stretch out looking for more. Plants that are given too much light without a corresponding increase in fertilizer and water will scorch. The right balance indoors likely means a bright corner, with plenty of water, and less fertilizer than you probably think.
Palm plant has a reputation for being somewhat of a temperamental plant. Although palm plants are understory plants in their natural habitat, indoors it’s a good idea to provide as much light as possible. Plants that are stretching and bleached should be moved into a brighter spot for a few weeks, but don’t expose them to full sunlight.
Soil
These palms are acid-loving plants that do best with a pH level as low as 5.0, so don’t worry about a peat-based mixture acidifying and hurting your palm plant. A standard potting mix, with some extra peat mixed in, is an ideal growing medium for palm plants1. These palms need good drainage to prevent water-logged roots.
Water
Keep the potting media evenly moist, but not waterlogged. Don’t let the plant’s soil get too dry between watering or you’ll start to lose lower leaves.
Temperature and Humidity
This plant will grow fairly well in temperatures between 65 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. It prefers high humidity but can survive in ordinary household humidity levels. In colder climates where winter air can get very dry; running a humidifier can make the plants happier. Misting the plant daily will also ensure it gets the humidity it craves. Low humidity levels can encourage insect pests.
Taylorsville is a city in Salt Lake County, Utah. It is part of the Salt Lake City metropolitan area. The population was 60,448 at the time of the 2020 census. Taylorsville was incorporated from the Taylorsville–Bennion CDP and portions of the Kearns metro township on July 1, 1996. The city is located adjacent to Interstate 215 and Bangerter Highway. It is located in the middle of the Salt Lake Valley.
TruCo is a great company to work with for your commercial landscaping and snow removal needs! Rob is excellent to work with. He is very timely in providing quotes and has a lot of great feedback and suggestions to provide on what will look great, fit within your budget, and is knowledgeable on plants that will thrive with Utah's ever changing weather conditions. I have been impressed with TruCo's landscape maintenance as well as landscape projects which have had a quick turnaround time. I would highly recommend using TruCo!
I experienced excellent all around service from landscape improvement design, scheduling and professional installation completed within the timeline we discussed. Rob, the manager does an excellent job of communicating, overseeing the install crew and making sure his customers are 100% satisfied with the job. Highly recommend TruCo for all landscaping needs.
Michael the tree guy is so smart. He knows all about tree removal, cutting and tree trimming services. Truco did amazing work for me. We had 16 very old and mature trees removed. The Truco team showed up on time ready to get the job done. They did amazing with clean up truly respect your property and your life. Communication was really good. They needed to move some things to get the stump grinder to our yard they put things back with no issues. Extremely professional and truly know what they're doing. If anyone is looking for professional tree removal or tree service you really should call Jason or Michael at Truco.
We hired TruCo to do a new install of sprinklers, sod, spigot, and bury downspouts. We even have a wifi transmitter for our control box we can access from an app on our phones! We absolutely love the professionalism and quality of their work!! Our sales rep Pete was the best to work with, we highly recommend him to anyone in the market for landscaping. It was awesome seeing the finished results and we're incredibly excited to enjoy our new space!
TruCo installed all of our plants, trees and shrubs, drip lines, and boulders. Then they installed our amazing beautiful firepit. We loved the results and they guarantee all plants and trees up to a year. They were great and easy to work with. They listened to our needs and wants and met them 100%. Our HOA sent us a letter telling us they appreciate all the work and the way our yard looks and let us know we added value to the property. Win/Win
Landscaping Trees
Landscaping Trees
To decide which types of landscape trees are best for your yard, you have to think in terms of the different seasons of the year. Begin by looking at those that are valued for their spring display and end with those trees that offer visual interest in winter. The goal is not simply to have a collection of great specimens in the yard, but rather to have at least one specimen per season that will add pizzazz to your landscaping.
Landscaping Trees for Spring
Magnolia Trees
Spring is for flowers. You have the rest of the year to fuss over the foliage of a tree, the novelty of a tree’s bark, or the pattern in which its branches grow. But when the snow recedes, and life returns, you want color—and lots of it. That is one reason why you can forgive the glorious golden chain tree (Laburnum × watereri) for being a one-hit-wonder. Its critics point out that it is useless outside of that short period of time during the spring season in which it blooms. But nothing furnishes color quite like flowers, whether annuals or perennials, shrubs or trees. Any well-planned yard will contain at least one flowering landscape tree of exceptional beauty. Magnolia trees (Magnolia spp.) are among the showiest specimens. While star magnolias often bloom earlier, saucer magnolias provide a larger bloom.
Apple Trees
You do not have to be a farmer to want to grow apple trees (Malus spp.) in your yard. It is about more than just fruit. Apple trees are beautiful bloomers in their own right. The fruit is a bonus. If you do not care about growing edible fruit, then crabapples will serve your purposes better. A type with rosy-red flowers that reaches a height of 20 to 25 feet is Malus x ‘Centzam’ or Centurion, which can be grown in zones 4 to 8.
Dogwood Trees
You will likely want more than just flowering landscape trees that provide a floral extravaganza in spring. Fortunately, sometimes you get a two-for-one deal (or better) in landscaping. In this case, that means versatile specimens that earn their keep during more than just one of the four seasons. Dogwood trees (Cornus florida and Cornus kousa) offer such a deal: blooms for spring, colorful foliage for fall, berries to attract wild birds in winter, and an interesting branching pattern year-round.
Landscaping Trees for Summer
Shining the sunlight
Japanese Maple Trees
Some Japanese maples (Acer palmatum) are very versatile, too, but in a different way. They are great not only in autumn but also during the summer season. They display the vibrant red color we associate with fall foliage when most other trees still bear green leaves.
Maidenhair Trees
Maidenhair trees (Ginkgo biloba) are very delightful in both summer and fall due to the delicate and interesting shape of their leaves. They are mostly all green in the summer and all golden in the fall.
Gingko tree with yellow and green leaves
Landscaping Trees for Fall
Sugar Maple Trees
The Japanese maples may seem somewhat precocious, giving you fall colors in the summer. But some maples native to North America or Europe are equally beautiful as autumn trees, and they are larger. For example, the great size of the sugar maple (Acer saccharum) allows the tree to fulfill another task of landscape trees: providing shade in summer. The imposing dimensions of these plants (80 feet or more in height, with a spread of up to about 60 feet) also help accentuate their fall color. Even on a cloudy fall day, maples can light up the yard like giant torches.
Katsura Trees
But bigger isn’t always better. A big tree can overwhelm a small yard and actually pose a danger to its inhabitants. A smaller tree is usually better suited to such a yard. Katsura tree (Cercidiphyllum japonicum) is one such choice. The ‘Rotfuchs’ cultivar is one of the best for foliage color. Standing 30 feet tall (with a spread of 16 feet), it bears purplish-bronze leaves in spring, greenish-bronze leaves in summer, and orangey-bronze fall foliage.
Red Maple Trees
The problem with the wild red maple trees (Acer rubrum) is that their fall leaves do not always turn out red. If you want a color that you can count on, select a cultivar, like ‘Autumn Blaze.’ Maples do not have a monopoly on autumn colors; there are many types of trees that offer autumn splendor.
Landscaping Trees for Winter
Close up of Blue spruce (Picea pungens)
Blue Spruce Trees
It is clear that landscape trees play a role in providing visual interest in the yard for spring, summer, and fall. Winter is tougher. When the fall foliage is gone, many yards are left looking drab. But if you have selected your trees wisely, then, when Old Man Winter darkens your doorstep, it is time for your evergreen trees to shine. Take your cue from the holiday season and plant those Christmas classics, the blue spruce trees (Picea pungens).
Dwarf Alberta Spruce Trees
Also popular as an evergreen tree is another kind of spruce, the dwarf Alberta spruce (Picea glauca ‘Conica’). You will often see them used in pairs to flank the entryway to a house for a formal look that strives for balance. Because dwarf Alberta spruce trees will remain relatively small for a number of years, people sometimes treat them (at least initially) as container plants.
Three spruce with dense foliage that resemble dwarfs
Arborvitae Trees
Arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis) does more than just look pretty year-round. This evergreen is widely planted to create living wall privacy fences to screen you from the prying eyes of nosy neighbors. If you are looking for something of intermediate size, try the North Pole arborvitae cultivar.
Arborvitae trees
Nellie R. Stevens Holly
Another tree or shrub that offers winter interest and is planted to form privacy screens is the holly (Ilex spp.), including the Nellie R. Stevens holly. This one is evergreen, too, but with a twist: It is considered a broadleaf evergreen.
Nellie Stevens Holly
Birch Trees
Not all landscape trees planted for winter interest bear evergreen foliage. Some just have interesting branching patterns or an unusually pleasing bark. Birches (Betula spp.) are examples of landscape trees with the latter quality—bark that peels into leathery, paper-like plates.
Some landscaping ideas
1. Well-Maintained Garden Landscape
Pine garden with mix of evergreen shrubs, annuals and perennial flowers in a beautiful national park.
Well-groomed vibrant green grass, seasonal plants, and variegated trees come together to create a stunning landscape. Well thought out landscape designs are appreciated for their creative beauty and the way the plants just seem to tell a story. The pine trees are a great ornamental accent to the space.
2. River Companions
Ornamental japanese-style garden featuring bonsai japanese maples, silver birch surrounded by tall leylandi cypress conifer hedge forming a dense evergreen barrier
Winding rivers and streams carve intriguing patterns through the land. One of the best ways to accentuate the natural flowing pattern is through the use of pine trees and other vegetation. With how many different species of pine trees there are, you’re sure to find the perfect ones for your landscape.
3. Line A Walkway
Oleander bushes and pine trees in mediterranean garden
Lining a walkway with pine trees and other evergreens ensures that the area is constantly full of new life and an abundance of lush color. Pine trees can have needles that range in color from vibrant greens to soothing blues. All these color options prevent any sense of boredom in the landscape!
4. Poolside Treasures
Large rectangular swimming pool with pine trees on the side against the background of the ocean
A palm tree is probably the typical tree you think of when it comes to poolside plants. However, pine trees shouldn’t be overlooked! They’ll add a nice pop and accentuate the pool well. With their evergreen leaves, you’ll never go a day without shade and a gorgeous tree to look at.
In a setting like this, the pine trees also serve as a partial wind-blocking wall.
5. Pine Tree Assortment
Landscape with decorative bushes and pines on a lawn
For a texture-rich landscape, use an assortment of pine trees all around the area. Dwarf pine trees, shrub-like pine trees, sky-reaching pine trees and more. Their various green tones are eye-catching in the landscape.
6. Dwarf Evergreens
Alpine garden
If you love the texture and color that pine trees provide but don’t necessarily want super tall trees in your landscape, then dwarf varieties are for you. There is still a large assortment of dwarf varieties, so you won’t be limited in your planting options whatsoever.
7. Front Yard Accent
View of a pine tree on backyard in a sunny day
One easy way to landscape your front yard is by planting a large pine tree. It serves as a show-stopping centerpiece in the yard since it can’t be missed. Surround your yard with other pine trees to increase the overall aesthetic.
