Ponytail Palm Plant Care

Ponytail Palm Plant Care

Ponytail Palm Plant Care

Ponytail Palm Plant Profile

The ponytail palm (Beaucarnea recurvata) makes a surprisingly interesting desktop plant, considering that when grown outdoors it can be a full-size tree that towers over homes. When planted outside in full sun, ponytail palms can reach 30 feet tall, but they typically stay closer to 6 feet tall at maturity when grown indoors. Despite the common name and the appearance of the foliage, this plant is not a true palm, but rather a member of the Asparagaceae family that includes edible asparagus.

Indoors, these novel little trees are often grown in shallow pots, with a tuft of strappy green leaves emerging from a bulbous stem that seems to erupt from the soil. (The bulbous trunk is the source of one of its common names, “elephant’s foot.”) Given time and the right conditions, a small desktop plant will grow into respectable specimen plants, up to 6 feet in height or more. Ponytail palm is native to arid regions in Central America and is among the easiest of small trees to grow indoors.

When planted outdoors, spring is the traditional planting time, though a ponytail palm can be planted at almost any time. This is a very slow-growing, long-lived species. It may take five years or more for a 1-foot-tall plant to double in size.

Botanical Name Beaucarnea recurvata
Common Name Ponytail palm, elephant’s foot
Plant Type Broadleaf evergreen shrub/ tree
Mature Size 6 to 8 feet tall; 3- to 5-foot spread (up to 30 feet tall when planted outdoors)
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Sandy, well-draining soil
Soil pH 6.5 to 7.5 (neutral)
Bloom Time Seasonal bloomer
Flower Color Creamy white
Hardiness Zones 10 to 11 (USDA); usually grown as a houseplant
Native Area Semi-desert areas of Central America

How to Grow a Ponytail Palm

Ponytail palm can be grown as an outdoor plant only in USDA Zones 10 and 11, where it prefers a sandy soil in a full-sun location. When grown outdoors, it is best planted in a cactus/succulent potting mix and placed in the sunniest spot you can find; in the right location, it is largely trouble-free, provided it gets a modest amount of water at regular intervals.

As an indoor plant, the ponytail is basically a “plant it and forget it” kind of plant, providing it has enough light to thrive and somewhat steady water throughout the growing season. Keep in mind, though, that the ponytail palm is an extremely slow-growing plant, so don’t expect your desktop plant to transform into a corner specimen in one or two growing seasons.

Light

Ponytail palms like full sun or bright indirect light. When grown as an indoor plant, situate it in the brightest location you can find—a window that gets direct sun or plenty of indirect light.

Soil

This plant is native to semi-desert areas of Central America, and when planted outdoors it does best in relatively sandy but organically rich soil. As in indoor plant, it does well in a cactus/succulent potting mix augmented with peat to improve its richness.

Water

For potted indoor plants, water a ponytail palm during the growing season every seven to 14 days. The bulbous stem stores water, so be careful not to overwater it. During the winter season, cut back watering to monthly.
A ponytail palm planted in the garden rarely needs to be watered if you get any kind of regular rain. In dry climates or during periods of drought, a modest watering every two weeks is sufficient.

Temperature and Humidity

Ponytail palms prefer warm, arid temperatures, above 60 degrees Fahrenheit. However, they will survive down to 50 degrees Fahrenheit, providing these temps are not prolonged.

Fertilizer

Feed weekly with liquid fertilizer during the growing season, or use a slow-release pellet fertilizer in the spring. Reduce feeding during the winter.

Potting and Repotting

For growing indoors, pot a ponytail palm in a smallish container filled with a cactus/ succulent potting mix that is blended with some peat. Repot in the spring as needed. If your goal is to grow a large palm tree, repot it every year, but if you want to keep it smaller, repot every two or three years. Ponytail palms will thrive when slightly underpotted in a container that confines the roots.

Propagating Ponytail Palms

Ponytail palms sometimes develop offsets (“pups”) from the base, which can be removed and potted up individually. Generally, however, this is a difficult task to master because of a lack of roots on the offsets. If you want to try, use a rooting hormone to stimulate new root growth on the offset. A ponytail palm rarely (if ever) flowers indoors to produce viable seeds.

Pruning a Ponytail Palm

Damaged leaves should have the tips trimmed off back to healthy tissue. If the offsets (“pups”) send up secondary shoots, you can prune these away to maintain a central trunk and classic tree-like appearance. However, a multi-stemmed tree is often desirable, and many people welcome these secondary shoots.

Common Pests/Diseases

Like most houseplants, a ponytail palm can be susceptible to spider mites, mealybugs, and scale. Horticultural soaps or oils are good non-toxic methods for controlling these pests.

Potential but rare disease problems include leaf spots, stem rots, and bacterial leaf streak. Watering too much is the most common cause of fungal problems and stem rot.

Ponytail palms are unique-looking, long-lived indoor plants that thrive on benign neglect. They are very easy to grow, provided that you don’t overwater them! Here’s how to grow and care for a ponytail palm in your home.

About Ponytail Palms

Despite its name and palm-like appearance, the ponytail palm is not a true “palm.” In fact, it is more closely related to desert plants in the Agave and Yucca genera (such as Joshua trees).

The typical ponytail palm consists of a large, domed “stump,” which tapers off into a thinner stem. From the top of the stem, one or more rosettes of long, green, leathery leaves develop as the plant ages. Indoors, the leaves can get up to 3 feet long, but outdoors, they may be double that length.

In its native environment (eastern Mexico), the entire plant has been known to reach up to 30 feet in height! However, ponytail palms that are grown in gardens as landscape plants don’t usually get to be more than 10 feet tall. Kept indoors, they are rarely taller than 4 feet.

Care of this plant is generally simple; the most common difficulty is having to adapt your watering habits to its watering needs!

PLANTING

Choosing Soil and a Pot
Use a fast draining soil, such as a cacti and succulent potting mix. If you have potting soil, sand, and perlite already on hand, you can create your own desert soil mixture: Simply mix 1 part potting soil, 1 part perlite, and 1 part sand.
Select a pot that has a hole in the bottom, so that excess water can be drained off. Ponytail palms do not like to sit in moist soil for very long.

Use a clay pot if possible; the porous material will absorb some of the water, drying out the soil more quickly (a good thing for cacti and succulents).

GROWING

How to Care for Ponytail Palms
Ponytail palms prefer to have as much light as possible, so place the plant in a bright location. Bright, indirect sunlight is best.
Keep soil fairly dry. Water from spring through fall, allowing the top inch or two of soil to dry completely before re-watering. During the winter, only water occasionally.

To water, soak the soil and allow the excess water to drain through the bottom of the pot into a dish. Let the pot sit in the dish for several minutes, then dump out any remaining water in the dish.

Fertilize in the spring with a cacti/succulent fertilizer and bring into a brighter room for the summer months.

Normal room temperature is fine for most of the year, but keep the plant slightly cooler in the winter (50-55°F / 10-13°C) to replicate the natural dormancy cycle.

During winter, don’t let the plant sit too close to cold windows at night, as it can be severely damaged by freezing temperatures.

Repotting a Ponytail Palm

Ponytail palms will remain small if kept in a small pot. They can go for many years before needing to be repotted. Repotting every other year at the most is all a ponytail palm needs.

Moving the plant to a larger pot will give it room to grow in both height and girth. However, older plants may become difficult to manage due to their sheer size and weight if not kept on the smaller size.
When selecting a new pot, pick one large enough to leave about an inch or so of space between the ponytail palm’s trunk and the rim of the pot.

Note: Use caution when handling a ponytail palm, as its leaves have tiny serrated edges.

HARVESTING

Propagation

Rarely, a ponytail palm may produce an offset—a small baby plant that stems from the base of the adult plant. These can be cut off at the base when they reach at least 4 inches in height and planted in a succulent potting mix. Before planting, allow the cut wound to heal, then apply a bit of rooting hormone (available online and in nurseries) to encourage the offset to root.

WIT AND WISDOM

The plant’s unusual shape and coloration has granted it another strange nickname: the Elephant’s Foot Palm.
Are ponytail palms poisonous to cats? While the leaves of a ponytail palm are not toxic to feline (or canine) companions, their foliage does have abrasive edges that could irritate a pet’s mouth, so we suggest keeping the plant out of reach.

PESTS/DISEASES

Overwatering can result in stem rot. If you withhold watering, the plant may be able to internally remedy the problem. Signs of stem rot include yellowing leaves and a caudex (the plant’s base and stem) that is soft or squishy.

Spider mites and scale insects may find their way to the leaves, but can be dealt with by rubbing a cloth of dish soap and water on the stems. Spider mites are evidenced by the presence of spider-like webbing on the plant.

Brown tips on leaves can be a sign of over fertilizing or under watering, so adjust your husbandry practices appropriately. They can also be a sign that the plant is getting too much direct sunlight and too little water.

Draper, Utah

About Draper, Utah

Draper is a city in Salt Lake and Utah counties in the U.S. state of Utah, about 20 miles (32 km) south of Salt Lake City along the Wasatch Front. As of the 2020 census, the population is 51,017, up from 7,143 in 1990.

Neighborhoods in Draper, Utah

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Reviews for Truco Services, Inc. Draper, Utah

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Marissa Burton

starstarstarstarstar (5)

TruCo is a great company to work with for your commercial landscaping and snow removal needs! Rob is excellent to work with. He is very timely in providing quotes and has a lot of great feedback and suggestions to provide on what will look great, fit within your budget, and is knowledgeable on plants that will thrive with Utah's ever changing weather conditions. I have been impressed with TruCo's landscape maintenance as well as landscape projects which have had a quick turnaround time. I would highly recommend using TruCo!

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Yvonne Olson

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I experienced excellent all around service from landscape improvement design, scheduling and professional installation completed within the timeline we discussed. Rob, the manager does an excellent job of communicating, overseeing the install crew and making sure his customers are 100% satisfied with the job. Highly recommend TruCo for all landscaping needs.

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Raymond Ferraro

starstarstarstarstar (5)

Michael the tree guy is so smart.  He knows all about tree removal, cutting and tree trimming services.  Truco did amazing work for me.  We had 16 very old and mature trees removed. The Truco team showed up on time ready to get the job done.  They did amazing with clean up truly respect your property and your life.  Communication was really good.  They needed to move some things to get the stump grinder to our yard they put things back with no issues.  Extremely professional and truly know what they're doing.  If anyone is looking for professional tree removal or tree service you really should call Jason or Michael at Truco.

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Heather Whiting

starstarstarstarstar (5)

We hired TruCo to do a new install of sprinklers, sod, spigot, and bury downspouts. We even have a wifi transmitter for our control box we can access from an app on our phones! We absolutely love the professionalism and quality of their work!! Our sales rep Pete was the best to work with, we highly recommend him to anyone in the market for landscaping. It was awesome seeing the finished results and we're incredibly excited to enjoy our new space!

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Jan Merideth

starstarstarstarstar (5)

TruCo installed all of our plants, trees and shrubs, drip lines, and boulders. Then they installed our amazing beautiful firepit. We loved the results and they guarantee all plants and trees up to a year. They were great and easy to work with. They listened to our needs and wants and met them 100%. Our HOA sent us a letter telling us they appreciate all the work and the way our yard looks and let us know we added value to the property. Win/Win

Tree Pruning

Tree Pruning

The main reasons for pruning ornamental and shade trees include safety, health, and aesthetics. In addition, pruning can be used to stimulate fruit production and increase the value of timber. Pruning for safety involves removing branches that could fall and cause injury or property damage, trimming branches that interfere with lines of sight on streets or driveways, and removing branches that grow into utility lines. Safety pruning can be largely avoided by carefully choosing species that will not grow beyond the space available to them, and have strength and form characteristics that are suited to the site.

Pruning for health involves removing diseased or insect-infested wood, thinning the crown to increase airflow and reduce some pest problems, and removing crossing and rubbing branches. Pruning can best be used to encourage trees to develop a strong structure and reduce the likelihood of damage during severe weather. Removing broken or damaged limbs encourage wound closure.

Pruning for aesthetics involves enhancing the natural form and character of trees or stimulating flower production. Pruning for form can be especially important on open grown trees that do very little self-pruning.

All woody plants shed branches in response to shading and competition. Branches that do not produce enough carbohydrates from photosynthesis to sustain themselves die and are eventually shed; the resulting wounds are sealed by woundwood (callus). Branches that are poorly attached may be broken off by wind and accumulation of snow and ice. Branches removed by such natural forces often result in large, ragged wounds that rarely seal. Pruning as a cultural practice can be used to supplement or replace these natural processes and increase the strength and longevity of plants.

Trees have many forms, but the most common types are pyramidal (excurrent) or spherical (decurrent). Trees with pyramidal crowns, e.g., most conifers, have a strong central stem and lateral branches that are more or less horizontal and do not compete with the central stem for dominance. Trees with spherical crowns, e.g., most hardwoods, have many lateral branches that may compete for dominance. To reduce the need for pruning it is best to consider a tree’s natural form. It is very difficult to impose an unnatural form on a tree without a commitment to constant maintenance.

Pollarding and topiary are extreme examples of pruning to create a desired, unnatural effect. Pollarding is the practice of pruning trees annually to remove all new growth. The following year, a profusion of new branches is produced at the ends of the branches. Topiary involves pruning trees and shrubs into geometric or animal shapes. Both pollarding and topiary are specialized applications that involve pruning to change the natural form of trees. As topiary demonstrates, given enough care and attention plants can be pruned into nearly any form. Yet just as proper pruning can enhance the form or character of plants, improper pruning can destroy it.

Pruning Approaches

Producing strong structure should be the emphasis when pruning young trees. As trees mature, the aim of pruning will shift to maintaining tree structure, form, health and appearance.

Proper pruning cuts are made at a node, the point at which one branch or twig attaches to another. In the spring of the year growth begins at buds, and twigs grow until a new node is formed. The length of a branch between nodes is called an internode.

Crown thinning – branches to be removed are shaded in blue; pruning cuts should be made at the red lines. No more than one-fourth of the living branches should be removed at one time.

The most common types of pruning are:

Crown thinning, primarily for hardwoods, is the selective removal of branches to increase light penetration and air movement throughout the crown of a tree. The intent is to maintain or develop a tree’s structure and form. To avoid unnecessary stress and prevent excessive production of epicormic sprouts, no more than one-quarter of the living crown should be removed at a time. If it is necessary to remove more, it should be done over successive years.

Types of branch unions

Branches with strong U-shaped angles of attachment should be retained. Branches with narrow, V-shaped angles of attachment often form included bark and should be removed. Included bark forms when two branches grow at sharply acute angles to one another, producing a wedge of inward-rolled bark between them. Included bark prevents strong attachment of branches, often causing a crack at the point below where the branches meet. Codominant stems that are approximately the same size and arise from the same position often form included bark. Removing some of the lateral branches from a codominant stem can reduce its growth enough to allow the other stem to become dominant.
Lateral branches should be no more than one half to three-quarters of the diameter of the stem at the point of attachment. Avoid producing “lion’s tails,” tufts of branches and foliage at the ends of branches, caused by removing all inner lateral branches and foliage. Lion’s tails can result in sunscalding, abundant epicormic sprouts, and weak branch structure and breakage.

Crown raising is the practice of removing branches from the bottom of the crown of a tree to provide clearance for pedestrians, vehicles, buildings, lines of site, or to develop a clear stem for timber production. Also, removing lower branches on white pines can prevent blister rust. For street trees the minimum clearance is often specified by municipal ordinance. After pruning, the ratio of the living crown to total tree height should be at least two-thirds.

On young trees “temporary” branches may be retained along the stem to encourage taper and protect trees from vandalism and sun scald. Less vigorous shoots should be selected as temporary branches and should be about 10 to 15 cm apart along the stem. They should be pruned annually to slow their growth and should be removed eventually.

Crown reduction pruning is most often used when a tree has grown too large for its permitted space. This method, sometimes called drop crotch pruning, is preferred to topping because it results in a more natural appearance, increases the time before pruning is needed again, and minimizes stress.

Crown reduction pruning, a method of last resort, often results in large pruning wounds to stems that may lead to decay. This method should never be used on a tree with a pyramidal growth form. A better long term solution is to remove the tree and replace it
Crown reduction – branches to be removed are shaded in blue; pruning cuts should be made where indicated with red lines. To prevent branch dieback, cuts should be made at lateral branches that are at least one-third the diameter of the stem at their union.

Pruning Cuts

Pruning cuts should be made so that only branch tissue is removed and stem tissue is not damaged. At the point where the branch attaches to the stem, branch and stem tissues remain separate, but are contiguous. If only branch tissues are cut when pruning, the stem tissues of the tree will probably not become decayed, and the wound will seal more effectively.

1. Pruning living branches
To find the proper place to cut a branch, look for the branch collar that grows from the stem tissue at the underside of the base of the branch. On the upper surface, there is usually a branch bark ridge that runs (more or less) parallel to the branch angle, along the stem of the tree. A proper pruning cut does not damage either the branch bark ridge or the branch collar.

A proper cut begins just outside the branch bark ridge and angles down away from the stem of the tree, avoiding injury to the branch collar. Make the cut as close as possible to the stem in the branch axil, but outside the branch bark ridge, so that stem tissue is not injured and the wound can seal in the shortest time possible. If the cut is too far from the stem, leaving a branch stub, the branch tissue usually dies and wound wood forms from the stem tissue. Wound closure is delayed because the wound wood must seal over the stub that was left.

The quality of pruning cuts can be evaluated by examining pruning wounds after one growing season. A concentric ring of wound wood will form from proper pruning cuts. Flush cuts made inside the branch bark ridge or branch collar, result in pronounced development of wound wood on the sides of the pruning wounds with very little wound wood forming on the top or bottom. As described above, stub cuts result in the death of the remaining branch and wound wood forms around the base from stem tissues. When pruning small branches with hand pruners, make sure the tools are sharp enough branch collar. This cut will prevent a falling branch from tearing the stem tissue as it pulls away from the tree.

1. The second cut should be outside the first cut, all the way through the branch, leaving a short stub.
2. The stub is then cut just outside the branch bark ridge/branch collar, completing the operation.

2. Pruning dead branches

Prune dead branches in much the same way as live branches. Making the correct cut is usually easy because the branch collar and the branch bark ridge, can be distinguished from the dead branch, because they continue to grow (Fig. 6A). Make the pruning cut just outside of the ring of woundwood tissue that has formed, being careful not to cause unnecessary injury (Fig. 6C). Large dead branches should be supported with one hand or cut with the threestep method, just as live branches. Cutting large living branches with the three step method is more critical because of the greater likelihood of bark ripping.

3. Drop Crotch Cuts
A proper cut begins just above the branch bark ridge and extends through the stem parallel to the branch bark ridge. Usually, the stem being removed is too large to be supported with one hand, so the three cut method should be used.

1. With the first cut, make a notch on the side of the stem away from the branch to be retained, well above the branch crotch.
2. Begin the second cut inside the branch crotch, staying well above the branch bark ridge, and cut through the stem above the notch.
3. Cut the remaining stub just inside the branch bark ridge through the stem parallel to the branch bark ridge.
To prevent the abundant growth of epicormics sprouts on the stem below the cut, or dieback of the stem to a lower lateral branch, make the cut at a lateral branch that is at least one-third of the diameter of the stem at their union.

South Jordan, Utah

About South Jordan, Utah

South Jordan is a city in south central Salt Lake County, Utah, United States, 18 miles (29 km) south of Salt Lake City. Part of the Salt Lake City metropolitan area, the city lies in the Salt Lake Valley along the banks of the Jordan River between the 10,000-foot (3,000 m) Oquirrh Mountains and the 11,000-foot (3,400 m) Wasatch Mountains. The city has 3.5 miles (5.6 km) of the Jordan River Parkway that contains fishing ponds, trails, parks, and natural habitats. The Salt Lake County fair grounds and equestrian park, 67-acre (27 ha) Oquirrh Lake, and 37 public parks are located inside the city. As of 2020, there were 77,487 people in South Jordan.

Neighborhoods in South Jordan, Utah

South Jordan

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Reviews for Truco Services, Inc. South Jordan, Utah

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Marissa Burton

starstarstarstarstar (5)

TruCo is a great company to work with for your commercial landscaping and snow removal needs! Rob is excellent to work with. He is very timely in providing quotes and has a lot of great feedback and suggestions to provide on what will look great, fit within your budget, and is knowledgeable on plants that will thrive with Utah's ever changing weather conditions. I have been impressed with TruCo's landscape maintenance as well as landscape projects which have had a quick turnaround time. I would highly recommend using TruCo!

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Yvonne Olson

starstarstarstarstar (5)

I experienced excellent all around service from landscape improvement design, scheduling and professional installation completed within the timeline we discussed. Rob, the manager does an excellent job of communicating, overseeing the install crew and making sure his customers are 100% satisfied with the job. Highly recommend TruCo for all landscaping needs.

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Raymond Ferraro

starstarstarstarstar (5)

Michael the tree guy is so smart.  He knows all about tree removal, cutting and tree trimming services.  Truco did amazing work for me.  We had 16 very old and mature trees removed. The Truco team showed up on time ready to get the job done.  They did amazing with clean up truly respect your property and your life.  Communication was really good.  They needed to move some things to get the stump grinder to our yard they put things back with no issues.  Extremely professional and truly know what they're doing.  If anyone is looking for professional tree removal or tree service you really should call Jason or Michael at Truco.

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Heather Whiting

starstarstarstarstar (5)

We hired TruCo to do a new install of sprinklers, sod, spigot, and bury downspouts. We even have a wifi transmitter for our control box we can access from an app on our phones! We absolutely love the professionalism and quality of their work!! Our sales rep Pete was the best to work with, we highly recommend him to anyone in the market for landscaping. It was awesome seeing the finished results and we're incredibly excited to enjoy our new space!

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Jan Merideth

starstarstarstarstar (5)

TruCo installed all of our plants, trees and shrubs, drip lines, and boulders. Then they installed our amazing beautiful firepit. We loved the results and they guarantee all plants and trees up to a year. They were great and easy to work with. They listened to our needs and wants and met them 100%. Our HOA sent us a letter telling us they appreciate all the work and the way our yard looks and let us know we added value to the property. Win/Win

Fiddle Leaf Fig Care

Fiddle Leaf Fig Care

Fiddle Leaf Fig Care

Native to the rainforests of western and central Africa, the Fiddle Leaf Fig Tree (Ficus lyrata) is a stunning plant with huge green leaves and an even larger following of houseplant fans. Despite its popularity, it’s certainly not the easiest houseplant to look after, but its visual impact in a space is unmatched when given proper conditions and care.
The Fiddle Leaf Fig appreciates a warm, humid environment, a fair amount of water and plenty of light. Choose a location away from air vents and drafts where the tree will receive plenty of bright ambient light. Directly in front of, or close by a southern or western facing window is ideal, and eastern exposure can also work as long as the plant is directly in the window and the space feels very bright. A few hours of direct sun is also beneficial. If placed in a full-sun location (where the plant will receive over 6 hours of direct light daily), a humid environment will keep your Fiddle Leaf looking its best. We do not recommend this plant for windows with northern exposure. They will not thrive in low-light locations.

If you’re unsure about your lighting conditions, placing the tree directly next to the window is the safest bet. We also have a guide for how to measure light in your space.

Fiddle Leaf Fig Trees are particularly sensitive to environmental changes. They will likely take a little time to adjust to their new home. Be sure to follow the care instructions, and don’t panic if yours loses a few leaves. If leaf discoloration or leaf loss persists, please reach out and we will help troubleshoot!

Lastly, if you are using a container made from organic materials to pot your Fiddle Leaf in, we highly recommend using a waterproof saucer underneath to protect your floors, as humidity may accumulate beneath the pot due to the volume of water this plant requires.

Fiddle Leaf Fig Leaf

The common name for this plant, Fiddle Leaf Fig, comes from the fact that the leaves are the size and shape of a fiddle.

Routine Maintenance

Always be sure to assess your plant’s watering needs upon receiving it. Before giving your plant a drink, it is best to check the moisture level in the soil first to ensure it isn’t moist right beneath the surface. Also, consider aerating the soil of your plant before the initial watering. Many growers compact the soil to avoid shifting during transit, so aerating can aid in drainage, help the soil breathe and allow moisture to be released.

The Fiddle Leaf Fig likes its soil to be kept consistently, evenly moist with a brief drying out period between watering as it comes from an area of the world that gets very dry between rain storms. Water it thoroughly whenever the top 2” of soil have dried. Allowing the soil to dry deep to the lower root system will lead to leaf loss, so be sure to check in with the soil regularly until you develop a routine with your plant. In contrast, too much moisture in the soil can lead to root rot and also cause leaves to drop.
The best way we have found to obtain an accurate moisture reading throughout the soil is with a soil probe, which allows you to check your plant’s moisture level at the root level and can also be used to aerate the soil if ever overwatered. Our Monitor Brass Soil Probe is an elegant option.

We highly recommend potting your Fiddle Leaf, as it is a challenging plant to keep alive long term in its nursery pot — however make sure to pot it in a permanent planter with plenty of soil mass and crucially, drainage. If your Fiddle Leaf Fig is planted in a container without a drainage hole, you must be very careful not to overwater. In this scenario we suggest allowing your Fiddle Leaf Fig to dry out slightly more between waterings and use a soil probe to see how damp the soil is at the root level before watering. These plants do particularly well in our self watering containers!

Frequently Asked Questions

Does my Ficus have a bacterial infection or root rot?

Probably not. Although the internet is ablaze with this diagnosis, we’ve found this affliction to be exceedingly rare in the thousands of Ficuses we’ve cared for through our sister company, Greenery NYC. It’s probably another problem such as low light or overwatering. However, we have a guide on how to identify fungal and bacterial leaf spotting if you’re interested in learning more.

Help! My Fiddle Leaf Fig dropped a leaf!

Ficus trees are sensitive to environmental change and transplanting. The dry, cold air is a big shift from the warm humidity of the greenhouse, and Ficus will temporarily go into shock and drop leaves. Don’t worry, this is a temporary state. It will take a couple of weeks for your tree to normalize and it might drop a couple of leaves in the process. However, if the leaves continue to drop it could be a sign of improper light or water.

My Fiddle Leaf Fig has brown spots and the leaves are dropping. What do I do?

The number one mistake most people make in taking care of their plants is overwatering. Fiddle Leaf Fig Trees prefer to dry out slightly between watering, and while they take a good deal of water to keep healthy, soggy soil will drown the plant. If your leaves start to brown and fall and the soil is moist, let the plant dry out until the soil becomes completely dry.

The second biggest mistake people make is not enough light. Fiddle Leafs need a lot of light to thrive and will start shedding their leaves if they’re not absorbing enough energy. If you’re unsure about where to put your plant, it’s best to place it by a window. For more information visit our lighting guide.

Under watering can also be a big killer of the fiddle leaf fig. When under watered, the rim of the leaves will start to brown and curl in, which will eventually spread throughout the leaf. Under watered leaves that have fallen will normally be either fully brown or mostly brown, and dry to the touch.

Brown fiddle leaf fig (ficus lyrata) leaf, due to over watering.Brown holes on a fiddle leaf fig leaf (Ficus lyrata) due to lack of light. LEFT: An example of overwatering on a dropped leaf. Note the browning spreading through the leaf’s veins from the central node (or midrib), a telltale sign that the plant has received excessive water. RIGHT: Brown spotting or holes in the leaves typically signal that the plant isn’t receiving enough light. This is common on the lower leaves of the tree, which can become shaded out over time.

How do I tell when my Fiddle Leaf Fig Tree needs water?

Once you’ve established that the top few inches of soil have dried, the easiest way to tell if your Fiddle Leaf needs water is to look at the leaves. If the leaves are not rigid and upright, and they start to look floppy, they’re telling you they need water. Be sure to check in regularly with your tree to ensure you don’t underwater until you establish a routine.

Underwatered Fiddle Leaf Fig / Ficus Lyrata before and afterAn underwatered Fiddle Leaf Fig tree on the left, and the same tree less than 24 hours later.

How much light is too much light for the Fiddle Leaf Fig?

Fiddle leaf fig sunburn.Sunburn on a Fiddle Leaf Fig’s leaves.

Fiddle Leaf Figs will generally do fine if placed right in front of a window in NYC. However, they can’t take extended periods of full sun (being placed outside on a sunny day). In extremely bright apartments (i.e. floor to ceiling windows) they may get sunburned, and in this instance your safest bet is putting them in front of the window with a sheer curtain. Do not block the light with a partial shade like a solar shade as they will block out the full spectrum of the sun’s radiation.

Can I put my Fiddle Leaf Fig Tree next to the AC / heater?

Fiddle Leaf Fig Trees are tropical plants that appreciate a humid environment. If conditions are too dry they will drop their leaves. While Fiddle Leafs will thrive in an air conditioned apartment, always avoid putting them in the direct line of fire for either AC or heating units. If their leaves are wagging from the air, it’s best to find another spot.

How often should I fertilize my Fiddle Leaf Fig?

In general, house plants will thrive when they are fertilized spring through fall. Fertilize once a month with an organic houseplant fertilizer, following the package instructions for dilution and administration. Greenery NYC uses an organic potting mix with a slow release fertilizer in the soil, so your plant will not need fertilizer within the first 6 months of receiving it.

How often does my Fiddle Leaf Fig need to be repotted?

For larger floor plants, we suggest repotting every 18-24 months. Typically you want to choose a potting vessel 2”- 4” larger in diameter to allow for growth. Don’t choose a pot much larger than the previous as this could drown the plants roots. If you prefer to maintain the current size of your plant, repot into the same vessel, providing new soil and trimming away some roots and foliage. Spring or summer is the ideal time to repot as the plant is at its strongest.

Millcreek, Utah

About Millcreek, Utah

Millcreek is a city in Salt Lake County, Utah, United States, and is part of the Salt Lake City Metropolitan Statistical Area. The population as of the 2020 Census was 63,380. Prior to its incorporation on December 28, 2016, Millcreek was a census-designated place (CDP) and township.

Neighborhoods in Millcreek, Utah

Winder Meadows, Willes, Holladay Hills, Canyon Rim, La Joya Heights, Millcreek, Wendell Circle, Mount Olympus, Millcreek Canyon, Sydnee Court, Big Cottonwood Regional Park - Big Cottonwood Area, Canyon Rim Park, Millcreek Common, Scott Avenue Park, Calla Homes, Wells, Mill Creek Canyon, Unified Police Department (Millcreek Precinct), Sunnyvale Park, Millcreek City Hall

Things To Do in Millcreek, Utah

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Reviews for Truco Services, Inc. Millcreek, Utah

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Marissa Burton

starstarstarstarstar (5)

TruCo is a great company to work with for your commercial landscaping and snow removal needs! Rob is excellent to work with. He is very timely in providing quotes and has a lot of great feedback and suggestions to provide on what will look great, fit within your budget, and is knowledgeable on plants that will thrive with Utah's ever changing weather conditions. I have been impressed with TruCo's landscape maintenance as well as landscape projects which have had a quick turnaround time. I would highly recommend using TruCo!

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Yvonne Olson

starstarstarstarstar (5)

I experienced excellent all around service from landscape improvement design, scheduling and professional installation completed within the timeline we discussed. Rob, the manager does an excellent job of communicating, overseeing the install crew and making sure his customers are 100% satisfied with the job. Highly recommend TruCo for all landscaping needs.

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Raymond Ferraro

starstarstarstarstar (5)

Michael the tree guy is so smart.  He knows all about tree removal, cutting and tree trimming services.  Truco did amazing work for me.  We had 16 very old and mature trees removed. The Truco team showed up on time ready to get the job done.  They did amazing with clean up truly respect your property and your life.  Communication was really good.  They needed to move some things to get the stump grinder to our yard they put things back with no issues.  Extremely professional and truly know what they're doing.  If anyone is looking for professional tree removal or tree service you really should call Jason or Michael at Truco.

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Heather Whiting

starstarstarstarstar (5)

We hired TruCo to do a new install of sprinklers, sod, spigot, and bury downspouts. We even have a wifi transmitter for our control box we can access from an app on our phones! We absolutely love the professionalism and quality of their work!! Our sales rep Pete was the best to work with, we highly recommend him to anyone in the market for landscaping. It was awesome seeing the finished results and we're incredibly excited to enjoy our new space!

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Jan Merideth

starstarstarstarstar (5)

TruCo installed all of our plants, trees and shrubs, drip lines, and boulders. Then they installed our amazing beautiful firepit. We loved the results and they guarantee all plants and trees up to a year. They were great and easy to work with. They listened to our needs and wants and met them 100%. Our HOA sent us a letter telling us they appreciate all the work and the way our yard looks and let us know we added value to the property. Win/Win

Jade Plant Care

Jade Plant Care

Jade Plant Care

Jade plants (Crassula ovata or C. argentea), also known as lucky plants or money plants, are a favorite houseplant thanks to their adaptability and attractive, gem-like green leaves. With a bonsai tree-like growth habit, these charming and easy-to-propagate plants can grow well in any area of your home with bright, indirect light. Jade plants can beautify your space for years with the right conditions and a little routine care. If you have pets in the household, be careful to keep your jade plant out of their reach, as the entirety of the plant (both leaves and stem) is toxic to pets.

Botanical Name: Crassula ovata or C. argentea
Common Name: Jade plant, lucky plant, money plant
Plant Type: Succulent
Mature Size: 5 feet tall
Sun Exposure: Bright, direct light
Soil Type: Fast-draining soil
Soil pH: 6.1 to 6.3
Toxicity: Toxic to pets1

Plant Care

Jade plants are some of the hardiest succulents available. With the right care and growing conditions, your plant can live a long, flourishing life. While some varieties are dwarf types, others can grow up to five feet tall when mature.

Allow your jade plant’s soil to nearly dry out between watering, but always be sure to water thoroughly. When displayed in areas with less light, it will need watering less frequently. During the summer months, when your plant is in growth mode, keep the soil slightly moist. Fertilize your jade plant every four months or so. Road side trees are especially prone to abiotic stress by exhaust fumes, toxic road debris, soil compaction, and drought which makes them susceptible to fungal infections and various plant pests. When tree removal is not an option, because of road ecology considerations, the main challenge is to achieve road safety (visibility of road signs, blockage-free lanes, etc.) while maintaining tree health.

These comprehensive care tips will guide you through the process of selecting, planting, and caring for the right tree for your space.

It’s important to remember that proper tree care starts when you select a tree. And what you do to your tree in its first few years of life will affect its shape, strength, and even its lifespan. Following these steps will make sure your tree gets a good start for a healthy life.

Jade Plant Care: Best Growing Conditions for Jade Plants

Jade plants are succulents that grow best in dry conditions with bright light, low humidity, and cool temperatures. Plant your jade in fast-draining soil like a potting mix formulated for cacti or succulents.

Choose a spot in a south-facing window: Aim for at least four hours of direct sunlight each day to give your jade plant the brightest light possible. To create that signature reddish tinge on its paddle-shaped leaves, display you’re jade in a spot with more light.

If you plan to move your jade plant outside for the summer, let it acclimate gradually. Start with a shady spot, then slowly move it to sunnier areas until it’s in full sun.

When it comes to watering, if you start noticing yellow or drooping leaves, your plant likely needs water. Conversely, waterlogged soil or root rot are signs you need to scale back the watering.

On the hottest days of the year (above 90 degrees), move your jades into the shade to avoid sunburn. Check soil moisture levels during this time, and water accordingly so the plant doesn’t dry out.

Despite the fact that they’re sun-loving succulents, jade plants grow well indoors thanks to their adaptability to temperature. While temps between 50 degrees and 70 degrees are preferred, jade plants can tolerate temperatures between 40 and 100 degrees without damage. Especially for variegated species, moderate temperature by placing your jade plant further away from windows during extreme temperatures outside.

Types of Jade Plants

While there are over 1,400 types of jade plants, some of the most common variants include ‘Tricolor’ (pink flowers at certain times of the year), ‘Variegata’ (ivory leaves streaked with green), ‘Sunset’ (yellow leaves with red tips), ‘Red’ (reddish-purple leaves), ‘Monstruosa Hobbit’ (curled yellow-green leaves), ‘Monstruosa Gollum’ (elongated leaves), ‘Copper’ (green leaves with bronze edges), ‘Bluebird’ (gray-blue leaves with red tips), and ‘Ripple Leaf’ (wavy-edged leaves).

How to Propagate Jade Plants

The jade plant is one of the easiest plants to propagate by stem or leaf cuttings, although the latter takes longer to show new growth. Here are the best ways to propagate your jade plant:

How to Propagate Jade Plants via Stem Cuttings

Step 1: Use clean, sharp gardening shears to cut a thick stem (3 to 5 inches long) with healthy leaves. Remove the lower leaves, then set the cutting in a sunny spot for a few days until the cut end forms a callus that’s lighter in color and feels firm.
Step 2: Fill a small pot with succulent soil and create a long, thin hole in the center. To help roots grow faster, apply rooting hormone (powdered or liquid) to the bottom inch of the callused stem. Gently place the stem into the pot, then pat down the soil until the cutting stands up on its own.

Step 3: Keep the cutting out of direct sunlight for three to four weeks. Once new growth appears, gradually move it closer to a window with bright sunlight. Water sparingly during this time.

How to Propagate Jade Plants via Leaf Cuttings

Step 1: Using a clean, sharp blade, remove a large, healthy-looking leaf.

Step 2: Place the leaf onto dry succulent soil away from direct sunlight until roots begin to grow. Rooting hormone can be applied to the cut end of the leaf, and a mix of equal parts succulent soil and perlite or vermiculite can lighten the soil texture to encourage growth.

Step 3: Look for tiny roots to sprout from the cut end of the leaf, which can take several weeks. Place the leaf in a small pot of fast-draining soil mix such as a perlite-sand blend. New growth will appear, and the original leaf will shrivel completely as the roots are established.

Jade succulent plant: Potting and Repotting

Since jade plants are so slow-growing, it’s not urgent to repot your plant on a regular basis—they can live happily in a too-small container for years. Jades should be repotted every few years as a matter of routine, and they can be safely repotted any time of year. Choose a pot no more than two sizes larger than the current vessel. The best option is a ceramic pot with ample drainage.

Common Problems With Jade Plants

Jade plants are relatively easy to care for, but there are a few common problems you may encounter. When you’re growing your plant, watch out for these signs that it needs extra care:

Root Rot

Since jade plants store water in their fleshy leaves, it’s important to avoid overwatering or poorly-drained soil, which can cause root rot. Dropping leaves, dark or soft stems or leaves, and mushy brown roots are all common signs. Treat this by taking the plant out of the pot, then removing as much soil as possible. Allow the plant to air out for a few days, then repot it in fresh succulent mix once the roots are dry.

Spotty, discolored, or dropping leaves on a jade plant that hasn’t been watered in a while can indicate the opposite problem: drought stress. If you see these signs, water the plant and monitor the soil moisture going forward.

Mealybugs

Watch out for mealybugs, which can infest your jade plant with a white cotton-like substance. Treat mealybugs by swabbing the entire plant with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol, then rinse the leaves and stems with water or insecticidal soap.
Continue treatment until the infestation has disappeared. Mealybugs nestle in the space where leaves and stems meet, so check those crevices when treating the plant.

How to Get Jade Plants to Bloom

Some specimens, particularly those that are pot-bound or mature, will sprout small white or pink flowers in winter. If your jade is in a space with lights on overnight, moving it to a place that’s dark at night in the fall can help to promote blooming, which is triggered by the longer nights in winter.

FAQs

Are Jade Plants Easy to Care for?

Jade plants are especially easy to care for when it comes to common houseplants. They are very adaptable to temperature and can thrive in any space with bright, direct light.

How Fast do Jade Plants Grow?

An indoor jade plant typically grows about 2 inches each year but may grow faster in a very sunny area.

How Long Can Jade Plants Live?

Species like jade plants in the Crassula ovata family can live for several decades, with some variants surviving upwards of 100 years.

What’s the Difference Between Jade Plants and Elephant Bush?

Although they look similar, elephant bush (Portulacaria afra) is not related to jade plants. Native to South Africa, elephant bush has darker stems and grows less upright than jade plants.

Can Jade Plants Grow Indoors?

While they don’t grow as fast as they do outside, jade plants are hardy houseplants that can thrive indoors with simple care steps.

Layton, Utah

About Layton, Utah

Layton is a city in Davis County, Utah, United States. It is part of the Ogden-Clearfield Metropolitan Statistical Area. As of the 2020 census, the city had a population of 81,773, with 2022 estimates showing a slight increase to 84,665. Layton is the most populous city in Davis County and the ninth most populous in Utah.

Neighborhoods in Layton, Utah

West Layton, Layton, Walmart Neighborhood Market, Little League - East Field, Chelsie Meadows Park, Layton Commons Park, My Neighborhood Chiropractic, Ellison Park, The Park, Oak Forest Park, Chapel Park, Woodward Park, Legacy Park, SITE Layton, The Park by Richmond American Homes, Andy Adams Park, Ellison Park Splash Pad, Lane Heder, PAC | Layton Family Medicine, Layton Meadows Apartments, Tanner Clinic - East Layton

Things To Do in Layton, Utah

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Reviews for Truco Services, Inc. Layton, Utah

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Marissa Burton

starstarstarstarstar (5)

TruCo is a great company to work with for your commercial landscaping and snow removal needs! Rob is excellent to work with. He is very timely in providing quotes and has a lot of great feedback and suggestions to provide on what will look great, fit within your budget, and is knowledgeable on plants that will thrive with Utah's ever changing weather conditions. I have been impressed with TruCo's landscape maintenance as well as landscape projects which have had a quick turnaround time. I would highly recommend using TruCo!

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Yvonne Olson

starstarstarstarstar (5)

I experienced excellent all around service from landscape improvement design, scheduling and professional installation completed within the timeline we discussed. Rob, the manager does an excellent job of communicating, overseeing the install crew and making sure his customers are 100% satisfied with the job. Highly recommend TruCo for all landscaping needs.

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Raymond Ferraro

starstarstarstarstar (5)

Michael the tree guy is so smart.  He knows all about tree removal, cutting and tree trimming services.  Truco did amazing work for me.  We had 16 very old and mature trees removed. The Truco team showed up on time ready to get the job done.  They did amazing with clean up truly respect your property and your life.  Communication was really good.  They needed to move some things to get the stump grinder to our yard they put things back with no issues.  Extremely professional and truly know what they're doing.  If anyone is looking for professional tree removal or tree service you really should call Jason or Michael at Truco.

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Heather Whiting

starstarstarstarstar (5)

We hired TruCo to do a new install of sprinklers, sod, spigot, and bury downspouts. We even have a wifi transmitter for our control box we can access from an app on our phones! We absolutely love the professionalism and quality of their work!! Our sales rep Pete was the best to work with, we highly recommend him to anyone in the market for landscaping. It was awesome seeing the finished results and we're incredibly excited to enjoy our new space!

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Jan Merideth

starstarstarstarstar (5)

TruCo installed all of our plants, trees and shrubs, drip lines, and boulders. Then they installed our amazing beautiful firepit. We loved the results and they guarantee all plants and trees up to a year. They were great and easy to work with. They listened to our needs and wants and met them 100%. Our HOA sent us a letter telling us they appreciate all the work and the way our yard looks and let us know we added value to the property. Win/Win

Apple Trees Pruning

Apple Trees Pruning

Apple Trees Pruning

When an apple tree becomes too big for a section or is in danger of falling because of disease or age, tree pruning or tree removal may be your only option. As tree pruning and arboriculture experts, the tree trimming crews have everything you need to get the job done and offer both a one off service or ongoing maintenance programs, as required.

Tree Pruning

Whether your objective is to promote tree growth or better fruit production, or to improve your view and let more sunlight in, our tree trimming crews are qualified and experienced to do the job.

Pruning a tree in a confined residential section can require a great deal of skill. Key considerations need to be given to avoid damage to surrounding buildings, water pipes, power lines and existing vegetation.

Using modern climbing techniques, our arborists can access trouble spots in the tree canopy and remove only necessary branches, without damaging any surrounding branches. Crown reductions and pruning to improve structural integrity are part of our everyday work.

In particularly confined spaces, limbs can be lowered down in small sections using specialized roping techniques, cranes, cherry pickers and even helicopters for more complicated sites.

Hedge Trimming: The hedge trimming service caters for hedges of all heights and sizes. With the right equipment for removal of hedges, we make light work of all shapes and sizes of hedge trimming.

Green Asset Management: Managing your green assets on an ongoing basis is the smartest and most economical way to maximize tree health and vitality.

Pruning around a Power line

Trees that grow too high may stretch towards electrical cables and cause problems. Tree branches can also obstruct views. In short, tree removal is needed when these situations occur. Homeowners may be compelled to take away trees to make way for a particular construction project. You have the option to cut down unwanted trees provided you have the expertise and equipment. Otherwise, get the services of professional tree removal services. These companies will give the service you like for a minimal cost.

The process of cutting trees is a complicated task. It has to be carried out by professionals who can cut down trees without destroying any structures. The task is more dangerous if the trees stand near electrical posts and wires. Trees located near edifices and fences are not easy to remove while those located in open spaces are easier to remove. Costs depend on the tallness, thickness, form and quantity of branches.

Expert cutters know how to take care of cutting timber. These service providers do not simply cut a tree without a plan. Measurements have to be taken at the start so that the falling log does not hit any person, house, vehicle or electric post and wires. Trees should be cut at the correct angle so it goes down on the proper direction.

Stump removal is also difficult. It calls for the work of experts to avoid damages. Tree cutting services know how to operate complicated gear such as cranes, special ladders and ropes. These people also consider the safety factor and disease control aspects so you can be assured of a complete service even if you have to spend some money.

Tackling the job yourself can be very dangerous, and specialist equipment is needed to avoid electrocution. The expertise, equipment and procedures (including significant public liability insurance cover) to maintain the electrical network from any possible interruptions is essential and needed when dealing with trees (apple tree) around a power line.

A crew is employed by a number of major power networks across the country to scope and audit power networks, and to carry out line clearing.

How to Prune Apple Trees

New to pruning? Then we will cover all you need to know about how to prune apple trees, including why, when, which, with what, and how in eight easy steps.

Why to Prune Apple Trees

We prune apple trees for four main reasons.

First, to make the tree easy to maintain and harvest by controlling the height and shape.

Secondly, to maintain a healthy tree by removing dead, diseased or damaged wood.

Thirdly, to improve air circulation which reduces pests and diseases.

Fourthly, to let sunlight reach the fruits so they can grow healthy and large.

When to Prune Apple Trees

It is best to prune an apple tree when it’s still dormant, this means early spring, about two weeks after the late frost. Not only are the buds easier to see and cut, but the cuts will also heal more quickly.

If you prune in the fall, then new growth will start but will be damaged by the cold winter. If you prune in the early winter, then the open cut can be susceptible to diseases.

If you see dead, diseased, or damaged, wood, you should cut these off as soon as you notice, no matter the time in the year so that the tree isn’t damaged any further.

Which Apple Trees to Prune

Wait to do the heavy pruning in the third year of growth after planting since this will allow the tree to establish itself. If your apple tree provides a lot of shade, then it needs to be pruned.

When there is a lot of pruning to do, then space out the pruning over several seasons.

What to Prune Apple Trees With

The tools to use depends on which type of branch you are cutting. In all cases though, be sure to sterilize the tools with hot soapy water or disinfectant to prevent any damage or infection.

For small branches and twigs, use hand pruners
.
For large branches about 1” thick, use loppers. These provide good leverage.

For branches about 3” thick and more, use a saw.

How to Prune Apple Trees

Step 0: Aim for a Central Leader, Pyramidal Form

Apple trees should have a pyramidal and conical shape, with shorter branches at the top so that they can allow sunlight to reach the lower branches.

Additionally, apple trees should be pruned with a central leader form, with one central branch growing vertically from the trunk.

Step 1: Remove Any Dead, Diseased, or Damaged Limbs (3 D’s)

You know if a branch is dead if it’s brittle and breaks very easily.

You usually know if a branch is diseased if the wood is a different color than the other branches around it.

You will see a damaged branch when it has partially broken from the weight of the fruits. Additionally, when two branches have crossed and rubbed against one another this can also damage the wood.

Once you have identified the branches with the 3 D’s, then cut the wood back to the nearest bud where the wood is still healthy.

Step 2: Prune Competing Central Leader Branches

Your apple tree should have one central leading branch which grows vertically from the trunk.

If there are multiple central leading branches, then choose the healthier and stronger one and cut the rest so that the tree remains strong.

Step 3: Prune Non-Primary Scaffold Branches

Your apple tree should have 2-6 primary scaffold branches (depending on the size of the tree) which connect to the central lead branch and are evenly spaced around it.

If two scaffold branches are too close to one another, remove one.

If you look at the tree from the top, it should look like a star.

These scaffold branches should have a 45 to 50 degree angle from the trunk.

When the angle is less than this, then the branch will fall from the weight of the fruit.

When the angle is more than this, then there won’t be as much fruit on the branches.

Step 4: Prune Suckers

When shoots or branches grow near the base of the trunk prune them so that the shape is preserved. Suckers shouldn’t grow below the canopy of the tree.

Step 5: Prune Downward & Inward Growing Branches

First, identify the branches growing downward. Then prune them since they won’t be able to bear the weight of the fruit.
Also prune any branches growing inward so that they don’t rub against other branches.

Step 6: Prune the Whorls

Whorls are places where three or more small branches grow from the same location. Once you identify the whorls then choose the healthier and strongest one, and prune the rest. After all, the branch won’t be able to support all of the small branches growing in this one location.

Step 7: Prune Back All Branches

In order for the stems to become thicker and develop flowers cut all branches back by ⅓ of its original length. However, make sure to make these cuts just above a bud that faces outward in order for the tree to have a healthy shape.

Step 8: Thin the Buds

Lastly, thin out the fruiting buds so that they are 4-6” apart. This will ensure that the branch bears just enough weight from the apples.
And voila! You are done! If you have any questions, we are here to help!

Salt Lake City, Utah

About Salt Lake City, Utah

Salt Lake City is the capital and most populous city of Utah, United States. It is the seat of Salt Lake County, the most populous county in Utah. With a population of 200,133 in 2020, the city is the core of the Salt Lake City metropolitan area, which had a population of 1,257,936 at the 2020 census. Salt Lake City is further situated within a larger metropolis known as the Salt Lake City–Ogden–Provo Combined Statistical Area, a corridor of contiguous urban and suburban development stretched along a 120-mile (190 km) segment of the Wasatch Front, comprising a population of 2,746,164, making it the 22nd largest in the nation. It is also the central core of the larger of only two major urban areas located within the Great Basin.

Neighborhoods in Salt Lake City, Utah

Poplar Grove, The Avenues, Marmalade, Central City, Fairpark, Ballpark, Downtown, Capitol Hill, Woodbury, Neighborhood House, Rio Grande, The Neighborhood Hive, Rose Park Neighborhood Center, Neighborhood Services, Salt Lake City Community Development, University Neighborhood Partners, Airport East Business Park, Granary Row, Neighborhood Auto Service, Salt Lake City

Things To Do in Salt Lake City, Utah

Bus Stops in Salt Lake City, Utah to Truco Services, Inc.

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Map of Salt Lake City, Utah

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Reviews for Truco Services, Inc. Salt Lake City, Utah

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Marissa Burton

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TruCo is a great company to work with for your commercial landscaping and snow removal needs! Rob is excellent to work with. He is very timely in providing quotes and has a lot of great feedback and suggestions to provide on what will look great, fit within your budget, and is knowledgeable on plants that will thrive with Utah's ever changing weather conditions. I have been impressed with TruCo's landscape maintenance as well as landscape projects which have had a quick turnaround time. I would highly recommend using TruCo!

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Yvonne Olson

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I experienced excellent all around service from landscape improvement design, scheduling and professional installation completed within the timeline we discussed. Rob, the manager does an excellent job of communicating, overseeing the install crew and making sure his customers are 100% satisfied with the job. Highly recommend TruCo for all landscaping needs.

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Raymond Ferraro

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Michael the tree guy is so smart.  He knows all about tree removal, cutting and tree trimming services.  Truco did amazing work for me.  We had 16 very old and mature trees removed. The Truco team showed up on time ready to get the job done.  They did amazing with clean up truly respect your property and your life.  Communication was really good.  They needed to move some things to get the stump grinder to our yard they put things back with no issues.  Extremely professional and truly know what they're doing.  If anyone is looking for professional tree removal or tree service you really should call Jason or Michael at Truco.

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Heather Whiting

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We hired TruCo to do a new install of sprinklers, sod, spigot, and bury downspouts. We even have a wifi transmitter for our control box we can access from an app on our phones! We absolutely love the professionalism and quality of their work!! Our sales rep Pete was the best to work with, we highly recommend him to anyone in the market for landscaping. It was awesome seeing the finished results and we're incredibly excited to enjoy our new space!

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Jan Merideth

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TruCo installed all of our plants, trees and shrubs, drip lines, and boulders. Then they installed our amazing beautiful firepit. We loved the results and they guarantee all plants and trees up to a year. They were great and easy to work with. They listened to our needs and wants and met them 100%. Our HOA sent us a letter telling us they appreciate all the work and the way our yard looks and let us know we added value to the property. Win/Win