Majesty Palm Care

The Majesty Palm, also known as the Ravenea rivularis, is a tropical palm tree that is native to Madagascar. It is a popular indoor and outdoor plant due to its elegant and striking appearance. The Majesty Palm can grow up to 30 feet tall in its natural habitat, but when grown in pots, it typically reaches between 6 and 8 feet tall.

Ravenea rivularis, the majestic palm, or majesty palm, is a species of tree in the family Arecaceae. They generally grow to 10 to 12 feet tall and are often marketed in stores as a “houseplant” in a pot, in its natural state, the majesty palm may sometimes grow to 98 feet (30 meters) tall.

The palm has upward-arching leaves divided into long, thin fingers. It is native to Madagascar; however, it is believed only about 900 plants are currently alive in the wild according to an assessment conducted in 2010. The species grows in several regions of Madagascar, but because those regions are totally surrounded and separated by desert, the natural spread of the species is limited. Despite its fragility as a species in the wild, it has become a very popular houseplant due to its beautiful leaves and slow-growing nature.

Adult Ravenea Rivularis, Florida USA

Ravenea rivularis grows in somewhat isolated humid habitats that are found in the otherwise dry, hot semi-arid climate of southwest Madagascar. Often, they grow huddled along the edges of riverbanks and natural lagoons, but also grow in shallow swamps where they receive ample water and humidity year-round. Due to its love for warm, moist air which can be difficult to provide consistently in most homes, the most common problem affecting those kept as houseplants is browning leaf tips. To replicate its natural growing conditions, plants should be misted with warm water daily or kept near a humidifier. It should also be watered more frequently than average houseplants especially in the spring and summer. That being said, fast-draining soil is preferable, such as soil labeled for cacti, in a well-draining container to allow water to seep through the root system and out of the pot. Although they can also suffer from lack of sunlight, Ravenea rivularis is much more sensitive to lack of water and humidity.

Majesty palms are often sold as cheap lush tropical foliage house plants but are hard to take care of for long term survivability.
In addition to ample water, Ravenea rivularis kept as a houseplant requires specialty fertilizer for palm trees which contains more magnesium than all-purpose fertilizers. Slow-release palm fertilizer with an NPK ratio of about 8-2-12 with at least 4% magnesium is ideal. A pinch of epsom salt may also be used as an alternative source of magnesium.

The leaves of the Majesty Palm are large and feathery, reaching up to 4 feet long. They are a glossy green color and are arranged in a graceful arching pattern. The trunk of the palm is slender and smooth, with a gray-brown color. The tree produces small, insignificant flowers that are followed by small, round berries.

The Majesty Palm prefers a well-draining soil that is rich in organic matter. It prefers a warm and humid environment, making it an ideal plant for a greenhouse or a conservatory. It can also be grown outdoors in tropical and subtropical climates.

When grown indoors, the Majesty Palm prefers bright, indirect light, and should be kept away from direct sunlight. It also prefers high humidity, so regular misting or placing a tray of water near the plant can help to maintain the necessary moisture levels.
The Majesty Palm is relatively low maintenance, but it does require regular watering and fertilization. It is also important to prune off any yellow or brown leaves as they appear, to keep the plant looking healthy and tidy.

Overall, the Majesty Palm is a beautiful and striking plant that can add a touch of elegance to any indoor or outdoor space. With proper care and maintenance, it can thrive for many years and become a cherished addition to any garden or home.

What Kind of Fertilizer for a Majesty Palm?

Palms are the kind of plant that does not go unnoticed in the landscape. Majesty palm (Ravenea rivularis) is a symmetrical, feather-leaved variety introduced from the rainforests of Madagascar. It is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11, but is commonly grown as a houseplant in colder climates. Like other palms, it has exacting fertilizer requirements that are not met by generic, all-purpose fertilizers.

Nutrient Needs

Most garden centers sell fertilizer products formulated specifically for palm trees and these are perfect for majesty palms. These differ from most other fertilizers because the manufacturer includes magnesium, along with other trace elements. The ideal palm fertilizer has 8 percent nitrogen, 2 percent phosphorus, 12 percent potassium and 4 percent magnesium – these are indicated with the numbers 8-2-12-4 printed on the bag. Make sure to use slow-release fertilizers only.

Outdoor Fertilizer Application

Fertilize majesty palms planted in the ground every two months between April and September, for a total of three applications per year. Spread the fertilizer evenly over the root zone of the plant at a rate of 1.5 pounds of granular fertilizer for every 100 square feet of surface area. Spread the fertilizer on the ground in an area that corresponds to the size of the canopy, at a minimum. However, the roots of large majesty palms can extend far beyond the canopy, so spread the fertilizer to twice the size of the canopy on mature specimens.

Lawns and Palms

One challenge in growing majesty palms outdoors is the negative effects of lawn fertilizer on nearby palm trees. Lawn fertilizers have a high ratio of nitrogen to potassium that causes a nutritional imbalance in palms. Plus, they contain little or no magnesium, which is necessary for palm health. However, palm fertilizer can effectively meet the nutrient needs of lawn grass. As a general rule, use only palm fertilizer within 30 feet of the trunk of majesty palms – it will not harm grasses and other plants in the vicinity.

Potted Majesty Palms

Fertilize potted palms in a slightly different manner than plants in the ground; this holds true for the majesty palm as well. Potted palms need a higher proportion of nitrogen – use a liquid fertilizer labeled 18-6-12 for best results. The potting mix usually will supply magnesium in the form of dolomite, though the initial quantity may last only six months. You can repot majesty palm each year, or add dolomite at a rate of 1 pound per cubic foot of potting soil each year. Apply a slow-release liquid fertilizer every three months to potted palms.

It is, however, a somewhat tricky plant to grow successfully indoors, requiring humid air, lots of bright indirect light, and consistent moisture. It is often referred to by houseplant experts as a “challenging” plant.
When grown indoors, majesty palm will add about one foot of growth per year until it reaches four to six feet, then slows down dramatically. It is faster-growing as an outdoor plant where its roots are free to roam—it is occasionally used as a landscape tree in California, South Florida, and other tropical regions.

Types of Majesty Palm

There are no named cultivars of Ravenea rivularis. There are only about 20 species in the Ravenea genus, all of them considered seriously endangered. R. rivularis is the only species commonly cultivated for garden or houseplant use.

Pruning

Pruning duties are generally limited to simply removing any fronds that have turned brown or yellow. This is all that’s needed to keep the plant looking good.

Propagating Majesty Palm

Majesty palms are raised exclusively from seed, and commercial production of seeds is somewhat limited. It’s highly unlikely that home growers can get access to seeds. Propagation through stem cuttings is also not an option. However, division, or separating the offset “pups” from the mother palm, is a viable option. This method is best done when you need to repot the plant so the plant is not stressed by moving it around too much. Here are the steps for division:

Remove the plant from its pot by gently rolling it out of the container while it’s on its side. Do not yank the palm from its pot from an upright position.

Look for pups, or offshoots, from the mother plant that you can potentially separate from the root ball.

Massage the root ball with your fingers to relax and soften it so you can untangle the pups. To help separate roots, use a disinfected, sharp knife if needed. You can even trim the roots of the pups if they are too long for new pots.

Place offshoots in pots with fast-draining soil. Water the pots in a sink until it starts to drip from the bottom, but do not let the pot sit in water.

Put pots in a bright spot, like its mother plant. Fertilize the baby palms in about a month.

Potting and Repotting Majesty Palm

This palm may need to be repotted annually, but more likely every other year since it grows slowly. When repotting, be careful not to damage the root ball and use a large, heavy container to prevent the palm tree from tipping over. Pots made from clay or ceramic will help stabilize these plants, which can get top-heavy.

A standard potting mix blended with additional peat moss works well as a growing medium.

In cold-winter regions, it’s quite common to move these plants back and forth between an outdoor patio and an indoor location as the seasons shift. Make sure to get your plant indoors before freezing weather arrives.

Overwintering

During the winter, a majesty palm likes a slightly cooler temperature, 55 to 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Otherwise, winter care remains the same.

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Tree Plants Indoor

Some Types of Tree Plants to Grow Indoors

With simple care tips, these tree plants can add lush greenery to your space.
An areca tree growing indoors.

The Spruce / Alonda Baird

Perhaps because of their association with tropical environments, indoor tree plants can elicit feelings of peace and relaxation like no other houseplant can. Trees are good indoor plants if you can provide the proper conditions for them. So indoor tree plant identification is key to know what your exact species needs.

Several types of indoor tree trees, including the areca tree and parlor tree, tolerate most household environments quite well. But there are some important factors to consider about indoor tree plant care.

Indoor Tree Plant Care Tips

How you care for an indoor tree plant is similar to many other houseplants that come from the tropics. Most types of indoor tree trees like the same conditions we find comfortable: warm temperatures, average humidity, and moderate light. Some indoor tree plants can even tolerate low light, though this usually will result in weaker growth.

Trees are generally slow-growing and need minimal pruning to clean up dead and broken fronds. They’ll require a quality tree fertilizer to help maintain lush growth. And you must watch out for common houseplant pests, such as spider mites and scale.

Here are some of the easiest trees to grow indoors to add a breezy, tropical feel to your home.

Chinese Fan Tree (Livistona chinensis)

Chinese fan tree with feathery frond leaves in white ceramic pot next to houseplants.

The Spruce / Kara Riley

The star-shaped leaves of Livistona chinensis set it apart from other trees with the more classic feathery fronds. While it’s slow-growing, this tree species’ mature height can reach 15 feet or greater. So it’s worth seeking out the subglobosa dwarf cultivar if you plan on growing the tree indoors.

Chinese fan trees do well in bright light, but younger plants can tolerate shady locations. Water when the top of the soil feels dry. Choose a large pot that will accommodate the long taproot that the Chinese fan tree produces. And feed this tree once a year in the spring with a slow-release fertilizer.

Light: Bright, indirect light; tolerates some shade

Water: Moderately moist soil

Color Varieties: Emerald green foliage

Areca Tree (Dypsis lutescens)

An areca tree growing indoors.

The Spruce / Alonda Baird

Also known as the bamboo tree, the areca tree (Dypsis lutescens) is one of the easiest trees to grow indoors thanks to its tolerance for low light. It produces large, feathery green fronds that have a gentle curve.

The areca tree prefers a moderate amount of water. Plant your areca tree in fertile soil, and give it a monthly fertilizer application to maintain a lush look.

Light: Sun or shade but looks its best in bright, indirect light

Water: Moderately moist soil

Color Varieties: Yellow-green stems and light green leaves

Majesty Tree (Ravenea rivularis)

Majestic tree in wicker basket with tall dark green fronds.

The Spruce / Kara Riley

The majesty tree (Ravenea rivularis) has two positive qualities that make it an ideal tree that will grow indoors: It is very shade tolerant, and it is a slow grower. However, you must be aware of two drawbacks of this tree: It needs constant moisture and humidity, and it will outgrow an indoor space over time.

If you can keep your majesty tree in a reasonably moist area, such as the kitchen or bathroom, then you can look forward to cultivating a graceful stand of dark green fronds that will add life to an empty corner of your home.

Light: Bright, indirect light for the entire day

Water: Consistently moist soil

Color Varieties: Bright green to dark green leaves

Cascade Tree (Chamaedorea cataractarum)

Green tree foliage tree isolated.

As opposed to some tree trees that feature a central trunk, Chamaedorea cataractarum is a very full tree with clumps of fronds eventually reaching 6 feet tall. You’ll be able to separate mature clumps, giving you new plant material to propagate by division.
In its native habitat, the cascade tree thrives along streams and in wet lowlands, so you must irrigate it frequently when growing it indoors. Fortunately for indoor growth, cascade trees are understory plants, so they can tolerate limited light.

Light: Bright, indirect light; tolerates shade; avoid direct sunlight

Water: Consistently moist soil

Color Varieties: Dark green leaves

Parlor Tree (Chamaedorea elegans)

Parlor tree in gold pot with small green fronds on shelf next to décor items.

The Spruce / Krystal Slagle

As the name suggests, the parlor tree (Chamaedorea elegans) is one of the easiest trees to grow indoors. It grows in average indoor light (or even artificial light) and typical room temperatures. And it requires no pruning other than an occasional tidying of dead branches.

Parlor trees flourish in above-average humidity. Be aware they might attract spider mites if conditions are very dry.

Light: Indirect light; avoid direct sun

Water: Consistently moist soil

Color Varieties: Light green leaves

Ponytail Tree (Beaucarnea recurvata)

Ponytail tree in white pot with long wispy fronds next to gold watering can and patterned pillows.

The Spruce / Lisa Ruschioni

Indoor tree plant identification should be fairly easy for the ponytail tree (Beaucarnea recurvata), with its short, sturdy trunk and gracefully arching leaves. In fact, this plant is not a true tree at all but rather a succulent.

The swollen trunk base isn’t just ornamental; it functions as a water reservoir for the plant, making it very drought tolerant. Give your ponytail tree a sunny location for optimal plant health. Moreover, it’s fine for the ponytail tree to become pot bound; in fact, this can keep growth manageable for a tabletop specimen.

Light: Full sun; tolerates bright, indirect light

Water: Moderately moist soil, will tolerate dry conditions

Color Varieties: Light green leaves

Sago Tree (Cycas revoluta)

Sago tree in white pot with shaggy pineapple-like trunk and feather-like fronds next to white watering can and window.

The Spruce / Anastasia Tretiak

If the sago tree is your first introduction to the world of indoor tree plants, you’re in for a treat. Stiff fronds grow in an upright habit from a short, shaggy trunk that resembles a pineapple. This plant (which is not a true tree but more closely related to conifers) is very slow-growing.

Choose an indoor location that receives filtered sun for four to six hours per day. The sago tree needs regular and consistent moisture, but make sure the soil surface is nearly dry between water applications.

Light: Full sun or bright, indirect light; tolerates some shade

Water: Moderately moist soil

Color Varieties: Light green leaves

The sago tree is toxic to humans and pets. So be mindful about its placement as a houseplant if you have kids or animals.

Yucca Tree (Yucca elephantipes)

Yucca tree with sharp leaves in corner of living room.

The Spruce / Krystal Slagle

Indoor tree plant identification is very important when it comes to yucca trees. Yucca aloifolia, also known as the Spanish bayonet, has razor-sharp leaves and belongs outdoors. Yucca elephantipes is the spineless yucca tree, and while its leaves do have a pointy tip, the plant is unlikely to draw blood like its spiny cousin.

You might also see the indoor yucca tree sold under the name “stick yucca.” Tough strappy green leaves emerge from an attractive trunk on the yucca tree. The plants are very drought tolerant and grow in full sun or part shade.

Light: Full sun to part shade

Water: Moderately moist soil

Color Varieties: Light green to bluish-green

Tree plant Care

Successfully growing tree plant requires carefully balancing several factors: heat, light, and fertilization. Plants that are over-fertilized and grown in warm conditions, but not given enough light, will stretch out looking for more. Plants that are given too much light without a corresponding increase in fertilizer and water will scorch. The right balance indoors likely means a bright corner, with plenty of water, and less fertilizer than you probably think.

Tree plant has a reputation for being somewhat of a temperamental plant. Although tree plants are understory plants in their natural habitat, indoors it’s a good idea to provide as much light as possible. Plants that are stretching and bleached should be moved into a brighter spot for a few weeks, but don’t expose them to full sunlight.

Soil

These trees are acid-loving plants that do best with a pH level as low as 5.0, so don’t worry about a peat-based mixture acidifying and hurting your tree plant. A standard potting mix, with some extra peat mixed in, is an ideal growing medium for tree plants1. These trees need good drainage to prevent water-logged roots.

Water

Keep the potting media evenly moist, but not waterlogged. Don’t let the plant’s soil get too dry between watering or you’ll start to lose lower leaves.

Temperature and Humidity

This plant will grow fairly well in temperatures between 65 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. It prefers high humidity but can survive in ordinary household humidity levels. In colder climates where winter air can get very dry; running a humidifier can make the plants happier. Misting the plant daily will also ensure it gets the humidity it craves. Low humidity levels can encourage insect pests.

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Ponytail Palm Plant Care

Ponytail Palm Plant Profile

The ponytail palm (Beaucarnea recurvata) makes a surprisingly interesting desktop plant, considering that when grown outdoors it can be a full-size tree that towers over homes. When planted outside in full sun, ponytail palms can reach 30 feet tall, but they typically stay closer to 6 feet tall at maturity when grown indoors. Despite the common name and the appearance of the foliage, this plant is not a true palm, but rather a member of the Asparagaceae family that includes edible asparagus.

Indoors, these novel little trees are often grown in shallow pots, with a tuft of strappy green leaves emerging from a bulbous stem that seems to erupt from the soil. (The bulbous trunk is the source of one of its common names, “elephant’s foot.”) Given time and the right conditions, a small desktop plant will grow into respectable specimen plants, up to 6 feet in height or more. Ponytail palm is native to arid regions in Central America and is among the easiest of small trees to grow indoors.

When planted outdoors, spring is the traditional planting time, though a ponytail palm can be planted at almost any time. This is a very slow-growing, long-lived species. It may take five years or more for a 1-foot-tall plant to double in size.

Botanical Name Beaucarnea recurvata
Common Name Ponytail palm, elephant’s foot
Plant Type Broadleaf evergreen shrub/ tree
Mature Size 6 to 8 feet tall; 3- to 5-foot spread (up to 30 feet tall when planted outdoors)
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Sandy, well-draining soil
Soil pH 6.5 to 7.5 (neutral)
Bloom Time Seasonal bloomer
Flower Color Creamy white
Hardiness Zones 10 to 11 (USDA); usually grown as a houseplant
Native Area Semi-desert areas of Central America

How to Grow a Ponytail Palm

Ponytail palm can be grown as an outdoor plant only in USDA Zones 10 and 11, where it prefers a sandy soil in a full-sun location. When grown outdoors, it is best planted in a cactus/succulent potting mix and placed in the sunniest spot you can find; in the right location, it is largely trouble-free, provided it gets a modest amount of water at regular intervals.

As an indoor plant, the ponytail is basically a “plant it and forget it” kind of plant, providing it has enough light to thrive and somewhat steady water throughout the growing season. Keep in mind, though, that the ponytail palm is an extremely slow-growing plant, so don’t expect your desktop plant to transform into a corner specimen in one or two growing seasons.

Light

Ponytail palms like full sun or bright indirect light. When grown as an indoor plant, situate it in the brightest location you can find—a window that gets direct sun or plenty of indirect light.

Soil

This plant is native to semi-desert areas of Central America, and when planted outdoors it does best in relatively sandy but organically rich soil. As in indoor plant, it does well in a cactus/succulent potting mix augmented with peat to improve its richness.

Water

For potted indoor plants, water a ponytail palm during the growing season every seven to 14 days. The bulbous stem stores water, so be careful not to overwater it. During the winter season, cut back watering to monthly.
A ponytail palm planted in the garden rarely needs to be watered if you get any kind of regular rain. In dry climates or during periods of drought, a modest watering every two weeks is sufficient.

Temperature and Humidity

Ponytail palms prefer warm, arid temperatures, above 60 degrees Fahrenheit. However, they will survive down to 50 degrees Fahrenheit, providing these temps are not prolonged.

Fertilizer

Feed weekly with liquid fertilizer during the growing season, or use a slow-release pellet fertilizer in the spring. Reduce feeding during the winter.

Potting and Repotting

For growing indoors, pot a ponytail palm in a smallish container filled with a cactus/ succulent potting mix that is blended with some peat. Repot in the spring as needed. If your goal is to grow a large palm tree, repot it every year, but if you want to keep it smaller, repot every two or three years. Ponytail palms will thrive when slightly underpotted in a container that confines the roots.

Propagating Ponytail Palms

Ponytail palms sometimes develop offsets (“pups”) from the base, which can be removed and potted up individually. Generally, however, this is a difficult task to master because of a lack of roots on the offsets. If you want to try, use a rooting hormone to stimulate new root growth on the offset. A ponytail palm rarely (if ever) flowers indoors to produce viable seeds.

Pruning a Ponytail Palm

Damaged leaves should have the tips trimmed off back to healthy tissue. If the offsets (“pups”) send up secondary shoots, you can prune these away to maintain a central trunk and classic tree-like appearance. However, a multi-stemmed tree is often desirable, and many people welcome these secondary shoots.

Common Pests/Diseases

Like most houseplants, a ponytail palm can be susceptible to spider mites, mealybugs, and scale. Horticultural soaps or oils are good non-toxic methods for controlling these pests.

Potential but rare disease problems include leaf spots, stem rots, and bacterial leaf streak. Watering too much is the most common cause of fungal problems and stem rot.

Ponytail palms are unique-looking, long-lived indoor plants that thrive on benign neglect. They are very easy to grow, provided that you don’t overwater them! Here’s how to grow and care for a ponytail palm in your home.

About Ponytail Palms

Despite its name and palm-like appearance, the ponytail palm is not a true “palm.” In fact, it is more closely related to desert plants in the Agave and Yucca genera (such as Joshua trees).

The typical ponytail palm consists of a large, domed “stump,” which tapers off into a thinner stem. From the top of the stem, one or more rosettes of long, green, leathery leaves develop as the plant ages. Indoors, the leaves can get up to 3 feet long, but outdoors, they may be double that length.

In its native environment (eastern Mexico), the entire plant has been known to reach up to 30 feet in height! However, ponytail palms that are grown in gardens as landscape plants don’t usually get to be more than 10 feet tall. Kept indoors, they are rarely taller than 4 feet.

Care of this plant is generally simple; the most common difficulty is having to adapt your watering habits to its watering needs!

PLANTING

Choosing Soil and a Pot
Use a fast draining soil, such as a cacti and succulent potting mix. If you have potting soil, sand, and perlite already on hand, you can create your own desert soil mixture: Simply mix 1 part potting soil, 1 part perlite, and 1 part sand.
Select a pot that has a hole in the bottom, so that excess water can be drained off. Ponytail palms do not like to sit in moist soil for very long.

Use a clay pot if possible; the porous material will absorb some of the water, drying out the soil more quickly (a good thing for cacti and succulents).

GROWING

How to Care for Ponytail Palms
Ponytail palms prefer to have as much light as possible, so place the plant in a bright location. Bright, indirect sunlight is best.
Keep soil fairly dry. Water from spring through fall, allowing the top inch or two of soil to dry completely before re-watering. During the winter, only water occasionally.

To water, soak the soil and allow the excess water to drain through the bottom of the pot into a dish. Let the pot sit in the dish for several minutes, then dump out any remaining water in the dish.

Fertilize in the spring with a cacti/succulent fertilizer and bring into a brighter room for the summer months.

Normal room temperature is fine for most of the year, but keep the plant slightly cooler in the winter (50-55°F / 10-13°C) to replicate the natural dormancy cycle.

During winter, don’t let the plant sit too close to cold windows at night, as it can be severely damaged by freezing temperatures.

Repotting a Ponytail Palm

Ponytail palms will remain small if kept in a small pot. They can go for many years before needing to be repotted. Repotting every other year at the most is all a ponytail palm needs.

Moving the plant to a larger pot will give it room to grow in both height and girth. However, older plants may become difficult to manage due to their sheer size and weight if not kept on the smaller size.
When selecting a new pot, pick one large enough to leave about an inch or so of space between the ponytail palm’s trunk and the rim of the pot.

Note: Use caution when handling a ponytail palm, as its leaves have tiny serrated edges.

HARVESTING

Propagation

Rarely, a ponytail palm may produce an offset—a small baby plant that stems from the base of the adult plant. These can be cut off at the base when they reach at least 4 inches in height and planted in a succulent potting mix. Before planting, allow the cut wound to heal, then apply a bit of rooting hormone (available online and in nurseries) to encourage the offset to root.

WIT AND WISDOM

The plant’s unusual shape and coloration has granted it another strange nickname: the Elephant’s Foot Palm.
Are ponytail palms poisonous to cats? While the leaves of a ponytail palm are not toxic to feline (or canine) companions, their foliage does have abrasive edges that could irritate a pet’s mouth, so we suggest keeping the plant out of reach.

PESTS/DISEASES

Overwatering can result in stem rot. If you withhold watering, the plant may be able to internally remedy the problem. Signs of stem rot include yellowing leaves and a caudex (the plant’s base and stem) that is soft or squishy.

Spider mites and scale insects may find their way to the leaves, but can be dealt with by rubbing a cloth of dish soap and water on the stems. Spider mites are evidenced by the presence of spider-like webbing on the plant.

Brown tips on leaves can be a sign of over fertilizing or under watering, so adjust your husbandry practices appropriately. They can also be a sign that the plant is getting too much direct sunlight and too little water.

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Majesty Palm

The Majesty Palm is relatively low maintenance, but it does require regular watering and fertilization. It is also important to prune off any yellow or brown leaves as they appear, to keep the plant looking healthy and tidy.

Adult Ravenea Rivularis, Florida USA

What Kind of Fertilizer for a Majesty Palm?

Nutrient Needs

Outdoor Fertilizer Application

Lawns and Palms

Potted Majesty Palms

When grown indoors, majesty palm will add about one foot of growth per year until it reaches four to six feet, then slows down dramatically. It is faster-growing as an outdoor plant where its roots are free to roam—it is occasionally used as a landscape tree in California, South Florida, and other tropical regions.

Types of Majesty Palm

Pruning

Pruning duties are generally limited to simply removing any fronds that have turned brown or yellow. This is all that’s needed to keep the plant looking good.

Propagating Majesty Palm

Remove the plant from its pot by gently rolling it out of the container while it’s on its side. Do not yank the palm from its pot from an upright position.

Look for pups, or offshoots, from the mother plant that you can potentially separate from the root ball.

Place offshoots in pots with fast-draining soil. Water the pots in a sink until it starts to drip from the bottom, but do not let the pot sit in water.

Put pots in a bright spot, like its mother plant. Fertilize the baby palms in about a month.

Potting and Repotting Majesty Palm

A standard potting mix blended with additional peat moss works well as a growing medium.

Overwintering

During the winter, a majesty palm likes a slightly cooler temperature, 55 to 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Otherwise, winter care remains the same.

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Palm Plants Indoor

Some Types of Palm Plants to Grow Indoors

With simple care tips, these palm plants can add lush greenery to your space.

An areca palm growing indoors

The Spruce / Alonda Baird

Perhaps because of their association with tropical environments, indoor palm plants can elicit feelings of peace and relaxation like no other houseplant can. Palms are good indoor plants if you can provide the proper conditions for them. So indoor palm plant identification is key to know what your exact species needs.

Several types of indoor palm trees, including the areca palm and parlor palm, tolerate most household environments quite well. But there are some important factors to consider about indoor palm plant care.

Indoor Palm Plant Care Tips

How you care for an indoor palm plant is similar to many other houseplants that come from the tropics. Most types of indoor palm trees like the same conditions we find comfortable: warm temperatures, average humidity, and moderate light. Some indoor palm plants can even tolerate low light, though this usually will result in weaker growth.

Palms are generally slow-growing and need minimal pruning to clean up dead and broken fronds. They’ll require a quality palm fertilizer to help maintain lush growth. And you must watch out for common houseplant pests, such as spider mites and scale.

Here are some of the easiest palms to grow indoors to add a breezy, tropical feel to your home:

Chinese Fan Palm (Livistona chinensis)
Chinese fan palm with feathery frond leaves in white ceramic pot next to houseplants
The Spruce / Kara Riley
The star-shaped leaves of Livistona chinensis set it apart from other palms with the more classic feathery fronds. While it’s slow-growing, this palm species’ mature height can reach 15 feet or greater. So it’s worth seeking out the subglobosa dwarf cultivar if you plan on growing the palm indoors.
Chinese fan palms do well in bright light, but younger plants can tolerate shady locations. Water when the top of the soil feels dry. Choose a large pot that will accommodate the long taproot that the Chinese fan palm produces. And feed this palm once a year in the spring with a slow-release fertilizer.
Light: Bright, indirect light; tolerates some shade
Water: Moderately moist soil
Color Varieties: Emerald green foliage

Areca Palm (Dypsis lutescens)

An areca palm growing indoors
The Spruce / Alonda Baird
Also known as the bamboo palm, the areca palm (Dypsis lutescens) is one of the easiest palms to grow indoors thanks to its tolerance for low light. It produces large, feathery green fronds that have a gentle curve.
The areca palm prefers a moderate amount of water. Plant your areca palm in fertile soil, and give it a monthly fertilizer application to maintain a lush look.
Light: Sun or shade but looks its best in bright, indirect light
Water: Moderately moist soil
Color Varieties: Yellow-green stems and light green leaves

Majesty Palm (Ravenea rivularis)

Majestic palm in wicker basket with tall dark green fronds
The Spruce / Kara Riley
The majesty palm (Ravenea rivularis) has two positive qualities that make it an ideal palm that will grow indoors: It is very shade tolerant, and it is a slow grower. However, you must be aware of two drawbacks of this palm: It needs constant moisture and humidity, and it will outgrow an indoor space over time.
If you can keep your majesty palm in a reasonably moist area, such as the kitchen or bathroom, then you can look forward to cultivating a graceful stand of dark green fronds that will add life to an empty corner of your home.
Light: Bright, indirect light for the entire day
Water: Consistently moist soil
Color Varieties: Bright green to dark green leaves

Cascade Palm (Chamaedorea cataractarum)

Green palm foliage tree isolated
As opposed to some palm trees that feature a central trunk, Chamaedorea cataractarum is a very full palm with clumps of fronds eventually reaching 6 feet tall. You’ll be able to separate mature clumps, giving you new plant material to propagate by division.

In its native habitat, the cascade palm thrives along streams and in wet lowlands, so you must irrigate it frequently when growing it indoors. Fortunately for indoor growth, cascade palms are understory plants, so they can tolerate limited light.
Light: Bright, indirect light; tolerates shade; avoid direct sunlight
Water: Consistently moist soil
Color Varieties: Dark green leaves

Parlor Palm (Chamaedorea elegans)

Parlor palm in gold pot with small green fronds on shelf next to décor items
The Spruce / Krystal Slagle
As the name suggests, the parlor palm (Chamaedorea elegans) is one of the easiest palms to grow indoors. It grows in average indoor light (or even artificial light) and typical room temperatures. And it requires no pruning other than an occasional tidying of dead branches.

Parlor palms flourish in above-average humidity. Be aware they might attract spider mites if conditions are very dry.
Light: Indirect light; avoid direct sun
Water: Consistently moist soil
Color Varieties: Light green leaves

Ponytail Palm (Beaucarnea recurvata)

Ponytail palm in white pot with long wispy fronds next to gold watering can and patterned pillows
The Spruce / Lisa Ruschioni
Indoor palm plant identification should be fairly easy for the ponytail palm (Beaucarnea recurvata), with its short, sturdy trunk and gracefully arching leaves. In fact, this plant is not a true palm at all but rather a succulent.

The swollen trunk base isn’t just ornamental; it functions as a water reservoir for the plant, making it very drought tolerant. Give your ponytail palm a sunny location for optimal plant health. Moreover, it’s fine for the ponytail palm to become pot bound; in fact, this can keep growth manageable for a tabletop specimen.
Light: Full sun; tolerates bright, indirect light
Water: Moderately moist soil, will tolerate dry conditions
Color Varieties: Light green leaves

Sago Palm (Cycas revoluta)

Sago palm in white pot with shaggy pineapple-like trunk and feather-like fronds next to white watering can and window
The Spruce / Anastasia Tretiak
If the sago palm is your first introduction to the world of indoor palm plants, you’re in for a treat. Stiff fronds grow in an upright habit from a short, shaggy trunk that resembles a pineapple. This plant (which is not a true palm but more closely related to conifers) is very slow-growing.

Choose an indoor location that receives filtered sun for four to six hours per day. The sago palm needs regular and consistent moisture, but make sure the soil surface is nearly dry between water applications.
Light: Full sun or bright, indirect light; tolerates some shade
Water: Moderately moist soil
Color Varieties: Light green leaves

The sago palm is toxic to humans and pets. So be mindful about its placement as a houseplant if you have kids or animals.

Yucca Palm (Yucca elephantipes)
Yucca palm with sharp leaves in corner of living room
The Spruce / Krystal Slagle
Indoor palm plant identification is very important when it comes to yucca palms. Yucca aloifolia, also known as the Spanish bayonet, has razor-sharp leaves and belongs outdoors. Yucca elephantipes is the spineless yucca palm, and while its leaves do have a pointy tip, the plant is unlikely to draw blood like its spiny cousin.

You might also see the indoor yucca palm sold under the name “stick yucca.” Tough strappy green leaves emerge from an attractive trunk on the yucca palm. The plants are very drought tolerant and grow in full sun or part shade.
Light: Full sun to part shade
Water: Moderately moist soil
Color Varieties: Light green to bluish-green

Palm plant Care

Successfully growing palm plant requires carefully balancing several factors: heat, light, and fertilization. Plants that are over-fertilized and grown in warm conditions, but not given enough light, will stretch out looking for more. Plants that are given too much light without a corresponding increase in fertilizer and water will scorch. The right balance indoors likely means a bright corner, with plenty of water, and less fertilizer than you probably think.
Palm plant has a reputation for being somewhat of a temperamental plant. Although palm plants are understory plants in their natural habitat, indoors it’s a good idea to provide as much light as possible. Plants that are stretching and bleached should be moved into a brighter spot for a few weeks, but don’t expose them to full sunlight.

Soil

These palms are acid-loving plants that do best with a pH level as low as 5.0, so don’t worry about a peat-based mixture acidifying and hurting your palm plant. A standard potting mix, with some extra peat mixed in, is an ideal growing medium for palm plants1. These palms need good drainage to prevent water-logged roots.

Water

Keep the potting media evenly moist, but not waterlogged. Don’t let the plant’s soil get too dry between watering or you’ll start to lose lower leaves.

Temperature and Humidity

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Jade Plant Care

Jade plants (Crassula ovata or C. argentea), also known as lucky plants or money plants, are a favorite houseplant thanks to their adaptability and attractive, gem-like green leaves. With a bonsai tree-like growth habit, these charming and easy-to-propagate plants can grow well in any area of your home with bright, indirect light. Jade plants can beautify your space for years with the right conditions and a little routine care. If you have pets in the household, be careful to keep your jade plant out of their reach, as the entirety of the plant (both leaves and stem) is toxic to pets.

Botanical Name: Crassula ovata or C. argentea
Common Name: Jade plant, lucky plant, money plant
Plant Type: Succulent
Mature Size: 5 feet tall
Sun Exposure: Bright, direct light
Soil Type: Fast-draining soil
Soil pH: 6.1 to 6.3
Toxicity: Toxic to pets1

Plant Care

Jade plants are some of the hardiest succulents available. With the right care and growing conditions, your plant can live a long, flourishing life. While some varieties are dwarf types, others can grow up to five feet tall when mature.

Allow your jade plant’s soil to nearly dry out between watering, but always be sure to water thoroughly. When displayed in areas with less light, it will need watering less frequently. During the summer months, when your plant is in growth mode, keep the soil slightly moist. Fertilize your jade plant every four months or so. Road side trees are especially prone to abiotic stress by exhaust fumes, toxic road debris, soil compaction, and drought which makes them susceptible to fungal infections and various plant pests. When tree removal is not an option, because of road ecology considerations, the main challenge is to achieve road safety (visibility of road signs, blockage-free lanes, etc.) while maintaining tree health.

These comprehensive care tips will guide you through the process of selecting, planting, and caring for the right tree for your space.

It’s important to remember that proper tree care starts when you select a tree. And what you do to your tree in its first few years of life will affect its shape, strength, and even its lifespan. Following these steps will make sure your tree gets a good start for a healthy life.

Jade Plant Care: Best Growing Conditions for Jade Plants

Jade plants are succulents that grow best in dry conditions with bright light, low humidity, and cool temperatures. Plant your jade in fast-draining soil like a potting mix formulated for cacti or succulents.

Choose a spot in a south-facing window: Aim for at least four hours of direct sunlight each day to give your jade plant the brightest light possible. To create that signature reddish tinge on its paddle-shaped leaves, display you’re jade in a spot with more light.

If you plan to move your jade plant outside for the summer, let it acclimate gradually. Start with a shady spot, then slowly move it to sunnier areas until it’s in full sun.

When it comes to watering, if you start noticing yellow or drooping leaves, your plant likely needs water. Conversely, waterlogged soil or root rot are signs you need to scale back the watering.

On the hottest days of the year (above 90 degrees), move your jades into the shade to avoid sunburn. Check soil moisture levels during this time, and water accordingly so the plant doesn’t dry out.

Despite the fact that they’re sun-loving succulents, jade plants grow well indoors thanks to their adaptability to temperature. While temps between 50 degrees and 70 degrees are preferred, jade plants can tolerate temperatures between 40 and 100 degrees without damage. Especially for variegated species, moderate temperature by placing your jade plant further away from windows during extreme temperatures outside.

Types of Jade Plants

While there are over 1,400 types of jade plants, some of the most common variants include ‘Tricolor’ (pink flowers at certain times of the year), ‘Variegata’ (ivory leaves streaked with green), ‘Sunset’ (yellow leaves with red tips), ‘Red’ (reddish-purple leaves), ‘Monstruosa Hobbit’ (curled yellow-green leaves), ‘Monstruosa Gollum’ (elongated leaves), ‘Copper’ (green leaves with bronze edges), ‘Bluebird’ (gray-blue leaves with red tips), and ‘Ripple Leaf’ (wavy-edged leaves).

How to Propagate Jade Plants

The jade plant is one of the easiest plants to propagate by stem or leaf cuttings, although the latter takes longer to show new growth. Here are the best ways to propagate your jade plant:

How to Propagate Jade Plants via Stem Cuttings

Step 1: Use clean, sharp gardening shears to cut a thick stem (3 to 5 inches long) with healthy leaves. Remove the lower leaves, then set the cutting in a sunny spot for a few days until the cut end forms a callus that’s lighter in color and feels firm.
Step 2: Fill a small pot with succulent soil and create a long, thin hole in the center. To help roots grow faster, apply rooting hormone (powdered or liquid) to the bottom inch of the callused stem. Gently place the stem into the pot, then pat down the soil until the cutting stands up on its own.

Step 3: Keep the cutting out of direct sunlight for three to four weeks. Once new growth appears, gradually move it closer to a window with bright sunlight. Water sparingly during this time.

How to Propagate Jade Plants via Leaf Cuttings

Step 1: Using a clean, sharp blade, remove a large, healthy-looking leaf.

Step 2: Place the leaf onto dry succulent soil away from direct sunlight until roots begin to grow. Rooting hormone can be applied to the cut end of the leaf, and a mix of equal parts succulent soil and perlite or vermiculite can lighten the soil texture to encourage growth.

Step 3: Look for tiny roots to sprout from the cut end of the leaf, which can take several weeks. Place the leaf in a small pot of fast-draining soil mix such as a perlite-sand blend. New growth will appear, and the original leaf will shrivel completely as the roots are established.

Jade succulent plant: Potting and Repotting

Since jade plants are so slow-growing, it’s not urgent to repot your plant on a regular basis—they can live happily in a too-small container for years. Jades should be repotted every few years as a matter of routine, and they can be safely repotted any time of year. Choose a pot no more than two sizes larger than the current vessel. The best option is a ceramic pot with ample drainage.

Common Problems With Jade Plants

Jade plants are relatively easy to care for, but there are a few common problems you may encounter. When you’re growing your plant, watch out for these signs that it needs extra care:

Root Rot

Since jade plants store water in their fleshy leaves, it’s important to avoid overwatering or poorly-drained soil, which can cause root rot. Dropping leaves, dark or soft stems or leaves, and mushy brown roots are all common signs. Treat this by taking the plant out of the pot, then removing as much soil as possible. Allow the plant to air out for a few days, then repot it in fresh succulent mix once the roots are dry.

Spotty, discolored, or dropping leaves on a jade plant that hasn’t been watered in a while can indicate the opposite problem: drought stress. If you see these signs, water the plant and monitor the soil moisture going forward.

Mealybugs

Watch out for mealybugs, which can infest your jade plant with a white cotton-like substance. Treat mealybugs by swabbing the entire plant with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol, then rinse the leaves and stems with water or insecticidal soap.
Continue treatment until the infestation has disappeared. Mealybugs nestle in the space where leaves and stems meet, so check those crevices when treating the plant.

How to Get Jade Plants to Bloom

Some specimens, particularly those that are pot-bound or mature, will sprout small white or pink flowers in winter. If your jade is in a space with lights on overnight, moving it to a place that’s dark at night in the fall can help to promote blooming, which is triggered by the longer nights in winter.

FAQs

Are Jade Plants Easy to Care for?

Jade plants are especially easy to care for when it comes to common houseplants. They are very adaptable to temperature and can thrive in any space with bright, direct light.

How Fast do Jade Plants Grow?

An indoor jade plant typically grows about 2 inches each year but may grow faster in a very sunny area.

How Long Can Jade Plants Live?

Species like jade plants in the Crassula ovata family can live for several decades, with some variants surviving upwards of 100 years.

What’s the Difference Between Jade Plants and Elephant Bush?

Although they look similar, elephant bush (Portulacaria afra) is not related to jade plants. Native to South Africa, elephant bush has darker stems and grows less upright than jade plants.

Can Jade Plants Grow Indoors?

While they don’t grow as fast as they do outside, jade plants are hardy houseplants that can thrive indoors with simple care steps.

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Bamboo Plants Care

Care of Your Bamboo Plants

Bamboo is a very easy plant to care for, follow these tips and the planting guide and you will see the true beauty of what a bamboo grove can provide. New plants require some care to get established, but overtime can typically take care of itself.

Watering

This is the most important part. Watering will help establish your planting and produce better results. Over the next couple of weeks, daily watering is recommended. If your plant does begin to loose leaves, it may be just adjusting to its new home and sunlight conditions. Even under most all conditions, the bamboo will retain 70% of its leaves. After a period of time, it should put on new leaves to replace the ones it dropped during the transition. If any stress like defoliation is noticed increase watering times. Water is the key for health bamboo. During the hot summertime even established bamboo will roll their leaves to prevent transpiration. This is a neat characteristic of bamboo so, do not be alarmed to see your bamboo roll up its leaves. If you water it during very hot times that is great and will assist the bamboo during its growth. Once established, bamboo needs little care and normal rainfall is generally all that is needed. Watering daily if you have well drained soil is great! The only time you should not water, is when the bamboo is sitting in standing water. Remember the bamboo canes on your existing division are through growing. Most all the growth now will be under ground. Each spring new canes will emerge taller and larger in diameter each year until mature size for your species and climate zone are reached.

Fertilizers

The three numbers on fertilizers are important factors. The first number represents nitrogen. Nitrogen is the element for growth. The second number is phosphorus and it has to do with the transfer of carbohydrates. Carbs are essential for the bamboo to store nourishment in the rhizomes. The last number represents potassium and is necessary for photosynthesis. This is very important for the plant’s metabolism. Extra amounts of this element helps the bamboo to withstand drought, heat and cold.

Lucky Bamboo

Lucky bamboo has been a staple in homes and Feng Shui for years. It’s a symbol of luck and prosperity making it a common gift and the perfect small house plant. Learn more about why this plant is so popular and how you can grow one of your own.
Lucky bamboo (Dracaena sanderiana) – 2.5 suns out of 5. Three water drops out of five, temperature 65–95 degrees farenheit. Toxicity: harmful to cats and dogs.

Lucky bamboo (Dracaena sanderiana) is surprisingly not actually bamboo as its scientific name suggests: It’s part of the Dracaena genus. The lucky bamboo plant is from Southeast Asia and is well-known for its use in Feng Shui for over 5,000 years. In these practices, it is said to represent good luck and happiness, making it an ideal and popular gift in business and personal matters. Another factor that makes lucky bamboo so popular is its ability to be trained into shapes like a swirl, heart, braid and other designs. See the sections below for a more in-depth look at the symbolism of lucky bamboo and how to create different bamboo designs.
Lucky bamboo is an easy plant to care for which makes it great for offices and homes alike. It’s happy growing in soil or water but has the longest life when grown in soil. Because it’s a Dracaena, lucky bamboo care is more in line with Dracaena care as opposed to bamboo. If growing in water, it should be replaced every week. If planted in soil, the soil should be kept slightly damp, so don’t overwater or let it get dry. Lucky bamboo does best in indirect light and in the temperature range of 65–95°F (18–35°C). It loves these somewhat tropical conditions and is considered to be in the hardiness zones of 10–11.

Lucky Bamboo Care Tips

A shelving unit with a marble pot and bamboo inside and a white decorative jar and two dried flowers. The bottom shelf has two glass jars.

It’s fairly simple to learn how to care for lucky bamboo. We’ve included in-depth information on sunlight, water, temperature, toxicity, potting, propagation needs and common pests and problems. Our quick step-by-step bamboo care guide can be seen below:

Carefully remove any packaging and add rocks to your container to act as an anchor.

Place your bamboo in indirect sunlight.

Fill your container with enough water to cover the roots.

Lucky bamboo prefers a temperature range of 65–95°F (18–35°C).

Optional: use a liquid houseplant fertilizer every three to four weeks.

Remove any yellow leaves.

Repot the bamboo as its roots outgrow the container.

Sunlight With A Sun Symbol

Sunlight: Lucky bamboo requires moderate or indirect sunlight. Direct sunlight will scorch the leaves, so avoid placing your plant in front of a bright window. Scorched leaves look like how they sound: The edges of the leaves will have a brown tinge to them almost like they were burned by fire. If your leaves look a little scorched, move your bamboo to an area with less light.

Water With A Symbol Of A Water Drop

Water: If growing your plant in soil, make sure it’s kept slightly damp. Don’t let the soil get too dry and don’t overwater since that can lead to root rot. Bamboo does not need much water to survive, but it can be grown in water as well. If you choose to grow your bamboo in water, make sure the roots always stay covered with water. Replenish your lucky bamboo with fresh water every seven to 10 days to keep it happy and healthy.

Algae can form in the water, so try to clean out the container and change the water regularly (about once a week). Tap water is okay for the bamboo plant to drink, as long as chlorine levels are low. To be safe, leave tap water out overnight so the chlorine can evaporate before you use it to water your lucky bamboo.

If you have high levels of fluoride in your tap water, we recommend using filtered water, such as bottled water. Fluoride will not evaporate and is toxic to plants like lucky bamboo.

Temperature With A Thermometer Symbol

Temperatures: Lucky bamboo thrives in temperatures anywhere from 65–95°F (18–35°C), so it makes a great office or house plant. During colder months, be wary about leaving your plant near windows or other places with a cold draft.

Twisted bamboo in a glass jar on a living room coffee tablecopy: toxicity with a skull and cross bones symbol
Toxicity: Lucky bamboo is toxic for cats and dogs, so make sure to keep it out of reach. If consumed by your fur babies it can cause incoordination, weakness, vomiting, abdominal pain, diarrhea, drooling and dilated pupils. Lucky bamboo is not toxic to humans, however.

Pests And Problems With A Symbol Of A Bug

Pests: Some common pests that affect lucky bamboo include mealybugs, mites and fungal infections. If you notice grey fuzz on your plant it could be a fungal infection, so remove the infected growth, keep the stalk and leaves dry, and increase air circulation. Mealybugs are small white insects that should be removed manually and with rubbing alcohol. Although mites (presented as white webbing or fuzz) don’t typically affect lucky bamboo, they can be caught by other household plants. They need to be eradicated with water and dish detergent.
Problems: Your lucky bamboo should be green, but if any part of the stem or leaves are yellow, this indicates your plant could be sick. Remove the yellow part of the stem or the leaves completely so it doesn’t spread to the rest of the plant.

Repotting And Propagation With A Symbol Of A Potted Plant

Repotting: How do you know when to repot your bamboo? You should repot once the roots become too tight in the container. Once you see the roots crowding, move the bamboo to a larger container. If your plant is growing in just water, simply move it to a new vase. If you’re using rocks, dump them out, place your plant in the new container (or trim back the roots to use the same container) and replace the rocks. If you’re using soil, dampen the soil, flip the plant with your hand on the stalks and soil to remove the plant, and move it to a larger pot.

Propagation: To propagate a lucky bamboo plant, first identify a healthy parent stalk (should have more than two bamboo segments) with an offshoot. Clip the offshoot from where it connects to the parent plant stalk and remove its bottom layer of leaves to create a new independent stalk. Place the new stalk in a small container of water and nurture the plant as you would a larger one. Repot as needed.

Lucky Bamboo Symbolism

Traditional Chinese bamboo in a gold pot with a red ribbon and a metal coin.

Lucky bamboo is a perfect option if you’re looking for a Feng Shui compatible plant. According to the Chinese practice, lucky bamboo is related to the five elements: Earth (pebbles in the container), wood (the plant itself), water (the water in the container), fire (the red ribbon often tied on the plant) and metal (the metal coin attached to the ribbon). Since the bamboo is hollow it’s said to be a great conductor of Chi energy. This allows wisdom and prosperity to flow through. The amount of stalks also has a big effect on the meaning of a particular lucky bamboo plant. They all have positive meanings except for four-stalk lucky bamboo, which is one you should avoid.
One stalk: represents unity and unobstructed flow of energy.

Two stalks: represents good luck in love (a great gift for a partner).

Three stalks: represents continued growth, birth and family.

Four stalks: represents death (avoid this plant, it is also considered a rude gift).

Five stalks: represents wealth, longevity, luck, happiness and prosperity.

Six stalks: represents wealth through opportunity and luck (great for businesses).

Seven stalks: represents health and personal growth.

Eight stalks: represents infinite energy and many blessings.

Nine stalks: represents success and gratitude.

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