Majesty Palm Care

Majesty Palm

Majesty Palm Care

The Majesty Palm, also known as the Ravenea rivularis, is a tropical palm tree that is native to Madagascar. It is a popular indoor and outdoor plant due to its elegant and striking appearance. The Majesty Palm can grow up to 30 feet tall in its natural habitat, but when grown in pots, it typically reaches between 6 and 8 feet tall.

Ravenea rivularis, the majestic palm, or majesty palm, is a species of tree in the family Arecaceae. They generally grow to 10 to 12 feet tall and are often marketed in stores as a “houseplant” in a pot, in its natural state, the majesty palm may sometimes grow to 98 feet (30 meters) tall.

The palm has upward-arching leaves divided into long, thin fingers. It is native to Madagascar; however, it is believed only about 900 plants are currently alive in the wild according to an assessment conducted in 2010. The species grows in several regions of Madagascar, but because those regions are totally surrounded and separated by desert, the natural spread of the species is limited. Despite its fragility as a species in the wild, it has become a very popular houseplant due to its beautiful leaves and slow-growing nature.

Adult Ravenea Rivularis, Florida USA

Ravenea rivularis grows in somewhat isolated humid habitats that are found in the otherwise dry, hot semi-arid climate of southwest Madagascar. Often, they grow huddled along the edges of riverbanks and natural lagoons, but also grow in shallow swamps where they receive ample water and humidity year-round. Due to its love for warm, moist air which can be difficult to provide consistently in most homes, the most common problem affecting those kept as houseplants is browning leaf tips. To replicate its natural growing conditions, plants should be misted with warm water daily or kept near a humidifier. It should also be watered more frequently than average houseplants especially in the spring and summer. That being said, fast-draining soil is preferable, such as soil labeled for cacti, in a well-draining container to allow water to seep through the root system and out of the pot. Although they can also suffer from lack of sunlight, Ravenea rivularis is much more sensitive to lack of water and humidity.

Majesty palms are often sold as cheap lush tropical foliage house plants but are hard to take care of for long term survivability.
In addition to ample water, Ravenea rivularis kept as a houseplant requires specialty fertilizer for palm trees which contains more magnesium than all-purpose fertilizers. Slow-release palm fertilizer with an NPK ratio of about 8-2-12 with at least 4% magnesium is ideal. A pinch of epsom salt may also be used as an alternative source of magnesium.

The leaves of the Majesty Palm are large and feathery, reaching up to 4 feet long. They are a glossy green color and are arranged in a graceful arching pattern. The trunk of the palm is slender and smooth, with a gray-brown color. The tree produces small, insignificant flowers that are followed by small, round berries.

The Majesty Palm prefers a well-draining soil that is rich in organic matter. It prefers a warm and humid environment, making it an ideal plant for a greenhouse or a conservatory. It can also be grown outdoors in tropical and subtropical climates.

When grown indoors, the Majesty Palm prefers bright, indirect light, and should be kept away from direct sunlight. It also prefers high humidity, so regular misting or placing a tray of water near the plant can help to maintain the necessary moisture levels.
The Majesty Palm is relatively low maintenance, but it does require regular watering and fertilization. It is also important to prune off any yellow or brown leaves as they appear, to keep the plant looking healthy and tidy.

Overall, the Majesty Palm is a beautiful and striking plant that can add a touch of elegance to any indoor or outdoor space. With proper care and maintenance, it can thrive for many years and become a cherished addition to any garden or home.

What Kind of Fertilizer for a Majesty Palm?

Palms are the kind of plant that does not go unnoticed in the landscape. Majesty palm (Ravenea rivularis) is a symmetrical, feather-leaved variety introduced from the rainforests of Madagascar. It is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11, but is commonly grown as a houseplant in colder climates. Like other palms, it has exacting fertilizer requirements that are not met by generic, all-purpose fertilizers.

Nutrient Needs

Most garden centers sell fertilizer products formulated specifically for palm trees and these are perfect for majesty palms. These differ from most other fertilizers because the manufacturer includes magnesium, along with other trace elements. The ideal palm fertilizer has 8 percent nitrogen, 2 percent phosphorus, 12 percent potassium and 4 percent magnesium – these are indicated with the numbers 8-2-12-4 printed on the bag. Make sure to use slow-release fertilizers only.

Outdoor Fertilizer Application

Fertilize majesty palms planted in the ground every two months between April and September, for a total of three applications per year. Spread the fertilizer evenly over the root zone of the plant at a rate of 1.5 pounds of granular fertilizer for every 100 square feet of surface area. Spread the fertilizer on the ground in an area that corresponds to the size of the canopy, at a minimum. However, the roots of large majesty palms can extend far beyond the canopy, so spread the fertilizer to twice the size of the canopy on mature specimens.

Lawns and Palms

One challenge in growing majesty palms outdoors is the negative effects of lawn fertilizer on nearby palm trees. Lawn fertilizers have a high ratio of nitrogen to potassium that causes a nutritional imbalance in palms. Plus, they contain little or no magnesium, which is necessary for palm health. However, palm fertilizer can effectively meet the nutrient needs of lawn grass. As a general rule, use only palm fertilizer within 30 feet of the trunk of majesty palms – it will not harm grasses and other plants in the vicinity.

Potted Majesty Palms

Fertilize potted palms in a slightly different manner than plants in the ground; this holds true for the majesty palm as well. Potted palms need a higher proportion of nitrogen – use a liquid fertilizer labeled 18-6-12 for best results. The potting mix usually will supply magnesium in the form of dolomite, though the initial quantity may last only six months. You can repot majesty palm each year, or add dolomite at a rate of 1 pound per cubic foot of potting soil each year. Apply a slow-release liquid fertilizer every three months to potted palms.

It is, however, a somewhat tricky plant to grow successfully indoors, requiring humid air, lots of bright indirect light, and consistent moisture. It is often referred to by houseplant experts as a “challenging” plant.
When grown indoors, majesty palm will add about one foot of growth per year until it reaches four to six feet, then slows down dramatically. It is faster-growing as an outdoor plant where its roots are free to roam—it is occasionally used as a landscape tree in California, South Florida, and other tropical regions.

Types of Majesty Palm

There are no named cultivars of Ravenea rivularis. There are only about 20 species in the Ravenea genus, all of them considered seriously endangered. R. rivularis is the only species commonly cultivated for garden or houseplant use.

Pruning

Pruning duties are generally limited to simply removing any fronds that have turned brown or yellow. This is all that’s needed to keep the plant looking good.

Propagating Majesty Palm

Majesty palms are raised exclusively from seed, and commercial production of seeds is somewhat limited. It’s highly unlikely that home growers can get access to seeds. Propagation through stem cuttings is also not an option. However, division, or separating the offset “pups” from the mother palm, is a viable option. This method is best done when you need to repot the plant so the plant is not stressed by moving it around too much. Here are the steps for division:

Remove the plant from its pot by gently rolling it out of the container while it’s on its side. Do not yank the palm from its pot from an upright position.

Look for pups, or offshoots, from the mother plant that you can potentially separate from the root ball.

Massage the root ball with your fingers to relax and soften it so you can untangle the pups. To help separate roots, use a disinfected, sharp knife if needed. You can even trim the roots of the pups if they are too long for new pots.

Place offshoots in pots with fast-draining soil. Water the pots in a sink until it starts to drip from the bottom, but do not let the pot sit in water.

Put pots in a bright spot, like its mother plant. Fertilize the baby palms in about a month.

Potting and Repotting Majesty Palm

This palm may need to be repotted annually, but more likely every other year since it grows slowly. When repotting, be careful not to damage the root ball and use a large, heavy container to prevent the palm tree from tipping over. Pots made from clay or ceramic will help stabilize these plants, which can get top-heavy.

A standard potting mix blended with additional peat moss works well as a growing medium.

In cold-winter regions, it’s quite common to move these plants back and forth between an outdoor patio and an indoor location as the seasons shift. Make sure to get your plant indoors before freezing weather arrives.

Overwintering

During the winter, a majesty palm likes a slightly cooler temperature, 55 to 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Otherwise, winter care remains the same.

Tree Service In Tooele Utah

Tree Removal Roy Utah

Tree Service In Tooele Utah

When you need fast, professional tree service in Tooele Truco is here to help. With experienced pros who can provide same day tree removal in Tooele you can count on us in an emergency situation. When you work with an arborist you can avoid all of the dangers to both person and property. Get started now to save on:
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For service that is on Tooele public property but encroaching on your house or yard we will need authorization for a full removal.

Choosing A Fast Tree Removal Service In Tooele For Less

When it is time to reclaim your yard, removing a large tree can actually be a lot more work than many anticipate. Truco experts take all the hassle and danger out of tree removal in Tooele by showing up on time and leaving your property with no visible signs you had a tree problem in the first place. Our pros will clearly lay out pricing for both the removal of a tree and any additional stump grinding costs in Tooele. Many tree companies quote the job with ONLY the tree removal prices included, but with Truco you will be aware of all potential charges before the project begins.

Tree Cutting Services in Tooele, UT

Need tree trimming services in Tooele for hanging branches? Worried that your tree isn’t getting enough light or is blocking the light to your home? Well look no further for your tree cutting in Tooele answers! Tree Cutting Pros offers you the convenience of comparing multiple Tooele tree cutting companies without the hassle of researching multiple websites. Our tree trimming prices in Tooele are the lowest around, and you will find yourself with more available time to handle the important things, like getting that tree cutting service in Tooele handled and making your home beautiful again.

Tooele Tree Removal – What We Offer

All of our pre-screened tree cutting companies in Utah are licensed, bonded, and insured. They and all of our partners offer:
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How Much Does Tree Cutting Service Cost in Tooele?

Tooele tree cutting service costs about $500 on average. Each job is different and pricing depends on how difficult and how long the job will take. Larger trees, hard to reach areas, and jobs that require special tools and equipment will cost more. Request a quote right now to get an estimate of how much it will cost for tree removal in Tooele.

Do You Offer Tree Removal in Tooele?

Yes, in addition to trimming, limb and branch removal, and pruning, we also remove trees in Tooele and the nearby area.

How Soon Can You Cut Down a Tree?

While this depends on how busy we are at any given time, if you need emergency tree removal in Tooele, same day service is often available. It’s recommended that you call as soon as possible so that you can get an arborist out to your property immediately. Leaning or fallen trees can be dangerous, and can also cause a lot of property damage if it falls.

Make your next tree cutting in Tooele hassle-free with our easy-to-use comparison tool. Simply fill out our quick quote request form or call one of our tree cutting companies in Tooele and compare services and pricing today.

Easy Steps For the Best Tree Service in Tooele County, UT

Proper tree care is essential to maintain the vitality of your landscape and a small investment can go a long way. Tooele County tree care professionals use techniques to keep your trees in a healthy state while encouraging strength, longevity and beauty.

Without regular tree service in Tooele, Grantsville, Dugway and Wendover you may find that your trees or shrubs can show changes in growth patterns, unusual leaf loss, show signs of insect damage, areas of decay and disease. Only the well trained eye of a knowledgeable tree company in Tooele County can spot these issues early enough to prevent long term damage and deal with them in a safe manner.

It all starts with assessing your yard to determine the species of your trees and shrubs. With certified arborists on staff and work crews with significant training in proper tree care, Truco tree experts can help with any size or type of yard. But to match your needs to the right professional it helps to have an idea of what you want to accomplish

What Type of Tree Service Do I Need?

Your tree care needs will vary based on seasonality, the types of trees in your yard, the age and size of your trees and the number of trees on your property. The climate in Tooele, Grantsville and Dugway, as well as the location of your trees in relation to buildings and hardscape features will also help determine what options are available to you.

Tree Trimming

Older trees require regular maintenance or corrective trimming for optimal health. There are several methods of trimming commonly used for mature trees:
Crown Cleaning – Most professional tree companies will start with a crown cleaning. This process removes problem areas from the crown such as dead, diseased or broken branches.
Crown Thinning – Thinning removes branches which are growing improperly and crowding out healthier limbs. Thinning an overcrowded crown allows the tree to receive better airflow and more rays from the sun.
Raising the Crown – Removing the lower branches of a tree is known as crown raising. This is usually done for aesthetics as well as ease of mowing under the tree.
Reducing the Crown – Crown reduction removes the upper limbs of the tree. This is only used when necessary because the types of cuts required for this method will often leave the tree susceptible to disease.

Tree Pruning

Younger trees require careful pruning. Pruning encourages new growth which helps keep the tree lush, healthy, and well-shaped. When pruning is introduced to a young tree it will improve the overall form and eliminate the need for heavy trimming as the tree ages. Hiring a tree company in Tooele County with a flair for artistic pruning may not be high your wish list, but it often goes hand in hand with a high quality service professional who takes pride in their work and does what is necessary to improve the aesthetics of your property.

General Ongoing Tree Care

Scheduling quarterly, semi-annual or monthly tree service will allow you to enjoy beautiful trees year round. If you have several species requiring multiple types of care a planned maintenance schedule will ensure shaping, pruning, disease detection and more are each done at appropriate times. Regular tree care services also include disease monitoring, treatment of tree diseases, and storm bracing.

Emergency Tree Service in Tooele County

Professional tree companies offer emergency service for those times when tree or limb removal just cannot wait. If a large limb or a tree has fallen on your home or car, or if a precariously balanced branch is hanging over a walkway, you should request emergency tree services. Keep in mind that emergency tree care will cost more than regular maintenance, particularly if you are requesting same or next-day service. Finding a tree care company in Tooele, Grantsville and Dugway to address hazards right after a storm can be difficult due to the amount of downed trees and subsequent service requests received. Emergency service is usually charged at a premium of 1.5x to 3.5x more than regular rates.

Questions to Ask Your Tree Service Company

Should I Have My Tree Topped?

Topping a tree is an aggressive technique and can significantly damage your tree so it is only to be used when a tree is encroaching on a building or other structure that may cause damage.

Will You Remove the Debris from Pruning and Trimming?

Yes! Truco tree service companies in Tooele County will remove all debris from trimming or pruning.

Can You Mulch the Limbs for Me?

Most of our partners have access to large chipper machines and for a small fee will mulch the limbs for you. Just be sure to make the request when scheduling.

Will Your Equipment Damage My Lawn?

Although the utmost care will be used, tree trimming equipment needed for trees above 15 feet is heavy and have the ability to damage landscaping or smaller plants.

Always alert tree service professionals to the location of any irrigation systems and other hidden areas of concern.

Do You Use Climbing Spikes?

Climbing spikes can damage a tree and should not be used for trimming a living tree whenever necessary.

When Should Trimming Be Done?

Most trees can be trimmed anytime outside of an active bloom. The best time for trimming deciduous trees is just prior to budding.

Are You Insured?

Tooele County tree companies will have general liability insurance and worker’s compensation insurance. Additionally, they will have certified arborists on staff and follow OSHA guidelines for safety.

Your Tree Care Checklist For Homeowners

There are steps you can take on your own to help ensure the health of your trees by keeping an eye out for hazards and performing small maintenance tasks in between regular appointments. Follow these tips for optimal tree health:

Look For Signs of Disease – Trees infected with bacterial diseases, blight, or certain types of fungal spores have various warning signs which indicate an unhealthy state. Look for brittle or spongy bark, defoliation (early or unusual leaf loss), visible fungus growing on the bark, and lesions on needles or leaves.

Hydration – Make sure your trees get enough water in arid climates or times of drought. For saplings during the first two years you should water them every day by soaking the root area for approximately 30 seconds. Applying mulch at a depth of 3” around the base of the tree will help it retain the right amount of moisture after watering.

Intermittent Pruning – If you want to shape your trees between regular tree care appointments, make sure you are cutting the branch in the correct manner to avoid damaging the tree. Pruning is done in a succession of three cuts:

Make a small notch on the underside of the branch, about two inches from where it joins the tree.

Make a vertical cut an inch to the outside of the first cut, lopping off the branch.

You will be left with a few inches of the branch still intact with the tree. Remove this portion at the branch collar, leaving as little of a stump as possible without wounding the collar.

Avoiding Trimming Evergreens – While deciduous trees can be pruned nearly any time of year, evergreens should not be trimmed if it can be avoided. Trimming an evergreen for corrective purposes is acceptable.

Truco tree care in Tooele County will improve the look of your property and even increase the value of your home. Hiring a professional tree service company company provides real tangible value and has been proven to increase the sales price of a home and decrease the amount of time it takes to sell. Get started now and see how Truco pros can help.

Tree Pruning Near Me

Tree Pruning Near Me

The main reasons for pruning ornamental and shade trees include safety, health, and aesthetics. In addition, pruning can be used to stimulate fruit production and increase the value of timber. Pruning for safety involves removing branches that could fall and cause injury or property damage, trimming branches that interfere with lines of sight on streets or driveways, and removing branches that grow into utility lines. Safety pruning can be largely avoided by carefully choosing species that will not grow beyond the space available to them, and have strength and form characteristics that are suited to the site.

Pruning for health involves removing diseased or insect-infested wood, thinning the crown to increase airflow and reduce some pest problems, and removing crossing and rubbing branches. Pruning can best be used to encourage trees to develop a strong structure and reduce the likelihood of damage during severe weather. Removing broken or damaged limbs encourage wound closure.

Pruning for aesthetics involves enhancing the natural form and character of trees or stimulating flower production. Pruning for form can be especially important on open grown trees that do very little self-pruning.

All woody plants shed branches in response to shading and competition. Branches that do not produce enough carbohydrates from photosynthesis to sustain themselves die and are eventually shed; the resulting wounds are sealed by wound wood (callus). Branches that are poorly attached may be broken off by wind and accumulation of snow and ice. Branches removed by such natural forces often result in large, ragged wounds that rarely seal. Pruning as a cultural practice can be used to supplement or replace these natural processes and increase the strength and longevity of plants.

Trees have many forms, but the most common types are pyramidal (excurrent) or spherical (decurrent). Trees with pyramidal crowns, e.g., most conifers, have a strong central stem and lateral branches that are more or less horizontal and do not compete with the central stem for dominance. Trees with spherical crowns, e.g., most hardwoods, have many lateral branches that may compete for dominance. To reduce the need for pruning it is best to consider a tree’s natural form. It is very difficult to impose an unnatural form on a tree without a commitment to constant maintenance.

Pollarding and topiary are extreme examples of pruning to create a desired, unnatural effect. Pollarding is the practice of pruning trees annually to remove all new growth. The following year, a profusion of new branches is produced at the ends of the branches. Topiary involves pruning trees and shrubs into geometric or animal shapes. Both pollarding and topiary are specialized applications that involve pruning to change the natural form of trees. As topiary demonstrates, given enough care and attention plants can be pruned into nearly any form. Yet just as proper pruning can enhance the form or character of plants, improper pruning can destroy it.

Pruning Approaches
Producing strong structure should be the emphasis when pruning young trees. As trees mature, the aim of pruning will shift to maintaining tree structure, form, health and appearance.
Proper pruning cuts are made at a node, the point at which one branch or twig attaches to another. In the spring of the year growth begins at buds, and twigs grow until a new node is formed. The length of a branch between nodes is called an internode.
Crown thinning – branches to be removed are shaded in blue; pruning cuts should be made at the red lines. No more than one-fourth of the living branches should be removed at one time.
The most common types of pruning are:
Crown thinning, primarily for hardwoods, is the selective removal of branches to increase light penetration and air movement throughout the crown of a tree. The intent is to maintain or develop a tree’s structure and form. To avoid unnecessary stress and prevent excessive production of epicormic sprouts, no more than one-quarter of the living crown should be removed at a time. If it is necessary to remove more, it should be done over successive years.
Types of branch unions.
Branches with strong U-shaped angles of attachment should be retained. Branches with narrow, V-shaped angles of attachment often form included bark and should be removed. Included bark forms when two branches grow at sharply acute angles to one another, producing a wedge of inward-rolled bark between them. Included bark prevents strong attachment of branches, often causing a crack at the point below where the branches meet. Codominant stems that are approximately the same size and arise from the same position often form included bark. Removing some of the lateral branches from a codominant stem can reduce its growth enough to allow the other stem to become dominant.
Lateral branches should be no more than one half to three-quarters of the diameter of the stem at the point of attachment. Avoid producing “lion’s tails,” tufts of branches and foliage at the ends of branches, caused by removing all inner lateral branches and foliage. Lion’s tails can result in sunscalding, abundant epicormic sprouts, and weak branch structure and breakage.
Crown raising is the practice of removing branches from the bottom of the crown of a tree to provide clearance for pedestrians, vehicles, buildings, lines of site, or to develop a clear stem for timber production. Also, removing lower branches on white pines can prevent blister rust. For street trees the minimum clearance is often specified by municipal ordinance. After pruning, the ratio of the living crown to total tree height should be at least two-thirds.
On young trees “temporary” branches may be retained along the stem to encourage taper and protect trees from vandalism and sun scald. Less vigorous shoots should be selected as temporary branches and should be about 10 to 15 cm apart along the stem. They should be pruned annually to slow their growth and should be removed eventually.
Crown reduction pruning is most often used when a tree has grown too large for its permitted space. This method, sometimes called drop crotch pruning, is preferred to topping because it results in a more natural appearance, increases the time before pruning is needed again, and minimizes stress.
Crown reduction pruning, a method of last resort, often results in large pruning wounds to stems that may lead to decay. This method should never be used on a tree with a pyramidal growth form. A better long term solution is to remove the tree and replace it
Crown reduction – branches to be removed are shaded in blue; pruning cuts should be made where indicated with red lines. To prevent branch dieback, cuts should be made at lateral branches that are at least one-third the diameter of the stem at their union.

Pruning Cuts
Pruning cuts should be made so that only branch tissue is removed and stem tissue is not damaged. At the point where the branch attaches to the stem, branch and stem tissues remain separate, but are contiguous. If only branch tissues are cut when pruning, the stem tissues of the tree will probably not become decayed, and the wound will seal more effectively.
1. Pruning living branches
To find the proper place to cut a branch, look for the branch collar that grows from the stem tissue at the underside of the base of the branch. On the upper surface, there is usually a branch bark ridge that runs (more or less) parallel to the branch angle, along the stem of the tree. A proper pruning cut does not damage either the branch bark ridge or the branch collar.
A proper cut begins just outside the branch bark ridge and angles down away from the stem of the tree, avoiding injury to the branch collar. Make the cut as close as possible to the stem in the branch axil, but outside the branch bark ridge, so that stem tissue is not injured and the wound can seal in the shortest time possible. If the cut is too far from the stem, leaving a branch stub, the branch tissue usually dies and wound wood forms from the stem tissue. Wound closure is delayed because the wound wood must seal over the stub that was left.
The quality of pruning cuts can be evaluated by examining pruning wounds after one growing season. A concentric ring of wound wood will form from proper pruning cuts. Flush cuts made inside the branch bark ridge or branch collar, result in pronounced development of wound wood on the sides of the pruning wounds with very little wound wood forming on the top or bottom. As described above, stub cuts result in the death of the remaining branch and wound wood forms around the base from stem tissues. When pruning small branches with hand pruners, make sure the tools are sharp enough branch collar. This cut will prevent a falling branch from tearing the stem tissue as it pulls away from the tree.
1. The second cut should be outside the first cut, all the way through the branch, leaving a short stub.
2. The stub is then cut just outside the branch bark ridge/branch collar, completing the operation.

2. Pruning dead branches
Prune dead branches in much the same way as live branches. Making the correct cut is usually easy because the branch collar and the branch bark ridge, can be distinguished from the dead branch, because they continue to grow (Fig. 6A). Make the pruning cut just outside of the ring of woundwood tissue that has formed, being careful not to cause unnecessary injury (Fig. 6C). Large dead branches should be supported with one hand or cut with the threestep method, just as live branches. Cutting large living branches with the three step method is more critical because of the greater likelihood of bark ripping.
3. Drop Crotch Cuts
A proper cut begins just above the branch bark ridge and extends through the stem parallel to the branch bark ridge. Usually, the stem being removed is too large to be supported with one hand, so the three cut method should be used.
1. With the first cut, make a notch on the side of the stem away from the branch to be retained, well above the branch crotch.
2. Begin the second cut inside the branch crotch, staying well above the branch bark ridge, and cut through the stem above the notch.
3. Cut the remaining stub just inside the branch bark ridge through the stem parallel to the branch bark ridge.
To prevent the abundant growth of epicormics sprouts on the stem below the cut, or dieback of the stem to a lower lateral branch, make the cut at a lateral branch that is at least one-third of the diameter of the stem at their union.

Clearfield, Utah

About Clearfield, Utah

Clearfield is a city in Davis County, Utah, United States. The population was 31,364 at the 2020 census. The city grew rapidly during the 1940s, with the formation of Hill Air Force Base, and in the 1950s with the nationwide increase in suburb and "bedroom" community populations and has been steadily growing since then.

Neighborhoods in Clearfield, Utah

Pratts, Smith Village, West Gate Addition, Westland, Westwood Estates, Airlane Park, Al Vita Park, Anchorage, Rhoades Lane, Ogden-Clearfield Metropolitan Area, Allison Acres, West Layton, King, Clearfield City Pickleball Courts, Heather Heights, Ogden-Clearfield, UT, Allred, Autumn Ridge Subdivision, Clearfield Parks & Recreation, Jacobsen Park

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Reviews for Truco Services, Inc. Clearfield, Utah

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Marissa Burton

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TruCo is a great company to work with for your commercial landscaping and snow removal needs! Rob is excellent to work with. He is very timely in providing quotes and has a lot of great feedback and suggestions to provide on what will look great, fit within your budget, and is knowledgeable on plants that will thrive with Utah's ever changing weather conditions. I have been impressed with TruCo's landscape maintenance as well as landscape projects which have had a quick turnaround time. I would highly recommend using TruCo!

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Yvonne Olson

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I experienced excellent all around service from landscape improvement design, scheduling and professional installation completed within the timeline we discussed. Rob, the manager does an excellent job of communicating, overseeing the install crew and making sure his customers are 100% satisfied with the job. Highly recommend TruCo for all landscaping needs.

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Heather Whiting

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We hired TruCo to do a new install of sprinklers, sod, spigot, and bury downspouts. We even have a wifi transmitter for our control box we can access from an app on our phones! We absolutely love the professionalism and quality of their work!! Our sales rep Pete was the best to work with, we highly recommend him to anyone in the market for landscaping. It was awesome seeing the finished results and we're incredibly excited to enjoy our new space!

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Jan Merideth

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TruCo installed all of our plants, trees and shrubs, drip lines, and boulders. Then they installed our amazing beautiful firepit. We loved the results and they guarantee all plants and trees up to a year. They were great and easy to work with. They listened to our needs and wants and met them 100%. Our HOA sent us a letter telling us they appreciate all the work and the way our yard looks and let us know we added value to the property. Win/Win

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Michael Sorensen

starstarstarstarstar (1)

Avoid working for this company. They will promise you things to get you in, then tell you there is no documentation about said things. Extremely unprofessional. Update to response - please dont try to justify. PTO was promised by the hiring manager on day 1 due to the conditions. Your company refusing to honor the agreement and tell me that there is no documentation is the problem. I quit after being told that you would not honor the PTO, not before.

Tree Pruning Service

Tree Pruning Service

Pruning Practices That Harm Trees

Topping and tipping are pruning practices that harm trees and should not be used. Crown reduction pruning is the preferred method to reduce the size or height of the crown of a tree, but is rarely needed and should be used infrequently.

Topping, the pruning of large upright branches between nodes, is sometimes done to reduce the height of a tree. Tipping is a practice of cutting lateral branches between nodes to reduce crown width.

These practices invariably result in the development of epicormics sprouts, or in the death of the cut branch back to the next lateral branch below. These epicormics sprouts are weakly attached to the stem and eventually will be supported by a decaying branch.
Improper pruning cuts cause unnecessary injury and bark ripping.

When to Prune

Conifers may be pruned any time of year, but pruning during the dormant season may minimize sap and resin flow from cut branches.
Hardwood trees and shrubs without showy flowers: prune in the dormant season to easily visualize the structure of the tree, to maximize wound closure in the growing season after pruning, to reduce the chance of transmitting disease, and to discourage excessive sap flow from wounds. Recent wounds and the chemical scents they emit can actually attract insects that spread tree disease. In particular, wounded elm wood is known to attract bark beetles that harbor spores of the Dutch elm disease fungus, and open wounds on oaks are known to attract beetles that spread the oak wilt fungus. Take care to prune these trees during the correct time of year to prevent spread of these fatal diseases. Contact your local tree disease specialist to find out when to prune these tree species in your area. Usually, the best time is during the late fall and winter.

Flowering trees and shrubs: these should also be pruned during the dormant season for the same reasons stated above; however, to preserve the current year’s flower crop, prune according to the following schedule:

Trees and shrubs that flower in early spring (redbud, dogwood, etc.) should be pruned immediately after flowering (flower buds arise the year before they flush, and will form on the new growth). ? Many flowering trees are susceptible to fire blight, a bacterial disease that can be spread by pruning. These trees, including many varieties of crabapple, hawthorn, pear, mountain ash, flowering quince and pyracantha, should be pruned during the dormant season. Check with your county extension agent or a horticulturist for additional information.

Trees and shrubs that flower in the summer or fall always should be pruned during the dormant season (flower buds will form on new twigs during the next growing season, and the flowers will flush normally).

Dead branches: can be removed any time of the year.

Pruning Tools

Proper tools are essential for satisfactory pruning. The choice of which tool to use depends largely on the size of branches to be pruned and the amount of pruning to be done. If possible, test a tool before you buy it to ensure it suits your specific needs. As with most things, higher quality often equates to higher cost.

Generally speaking, the smaller a branch is when pruned, the sooner the wound created will seal. Hand pruners are used to prune small branches (under 2.5 cm diameter) and many different kinds are available. Hand pruners can be grouped into by-pass or anvil styles based on the blade configuration. Anvil style pruners have a straight blade that cuts the branch against a small anvil or block as the handles are squeezed. By-pass pruners use a curved cutting blade that slides past a broader lower blade, much like a scissors. To prevent unnecessary tearing or crushing of tissues, it is best to use a by-pass style pruner. Left- or right-handed types can be purchased.

Slightly larger branches that cannot be cut with a hand pruner may be cut with small pruning saws (up to 10 cm) or lopping shears (up to 7 cm diameter) with larger cutting surfaces and greater leverage. Lopping shears are also available in by-pass and anvil styles.
For branches too large to be cut with a hand pruner or lopping shears, pruning saws must be used. Pruning saws differ greatly in handle styles, the length and shape of the blade, and the layout and type of teeth. Most have tempered metal blades that retain their sharpness for many pruning cuts. Unlike most other saws, pruning saws are often designed to cut on the “pull-stroke.”

Chain saws are preferred when pruning branches larger than about 10 cm. Chainsaws should be used only by qualified individuals. To avoid the need to cut branches greater than 10 cm diameter, prune when branches are small.

Pole pruners must be used to cut branches beyond reach. Generally, pruning heads can cut branches up to 4.4 cm diameter and are available in the by-pass and anvil styles. Once again, the by-pass type is preferred. For cutting larger branches, saw blades can be fastened directly to the pruning head, or a separate saw head can be purchased. Because of the danger of electrocution, pole pruners should not be used near utility lines except by qualified utility line clearance personnel.

To ensure that satisfactory cuts are made and to reduce fatigue, keep your pruning tools sharp and in good working condition. Hand pruners, lopping shears, and pole pruners should be periodically sharpened with a sharpening stone. Replacement blades are available for many styles. Pruning saws should be professionally sharpened or periodically replaced. To reduce cost, many styles have replaceable blades.

Tools should be clean and sanitized as well as sharp. Although sanitizing tools may be inconvenient and seldom practiced, doing so may prevent the spread of disease from infected to healthy trees on contaminated tools. Tools become contaminated when they come into contact with fungi, bacteria, viruses and other microorganisms that cause disease in trees. Most pathogens need some way of entering the tree to cause disease, and fresh wounds are perfect places for infections to begin. Microorganisms on tool surfaces are easily introduced into susceptible trees when subsequent cuts are made. The need for sanitizing tools can be greatly reduced by pruning during the dormant season.

If sanitizing is necessary it should be practiced as follows: Before each branch is cut, sanitize pruning tools with either 70% denatured alcohol, or with liquid household bleach diluted 1 to 9 with water (1 part bleach, 9 parts water). Tools should be immersed in the solution, preferably for 1-2 minutes, and wood particles should be wiped from all cutting surfaces. Bleach is corrosive to metal surfaces, so tools should be thoroughly cleaned with soap and water after each use.

Treating wounds

Tree sap, gums, and resins are the natural means by which trees combat invasion by pathogens. Although unsightly, sap flow from pruning wounds is not generally harmful; however, excessive “bleeding” can weaken trees.

When oaks or elms are wounded during a critical time of year (usually spring for oaks, or throughout the growing season for elms) -either from storms, other unforeseen mechanical wounds, or from necessary branch removals — some type of wound dressing should be applied to the wound. Do this immediately after the wound is created. In most other instances, wound dressings are unnecessary, and may even be detrimental. Wound dressings will not stop decay or cure infectious diseases. They may actually interfere with the protective benefits of tree gums and resins, and prevent wound surfaces from closing as quickly as they might under natural conditions. The only benefit of wound dressings is to prevent introduction of pathogens in the specific cases of Dutch elm disease and oak wilt.

Pruning Guidelines

To encourage the development of a strong, healthy tree, consider the following guidelines when pruning.

General

Prune first for safety, next for health, and finally for aesthetics.

Never prune trees that are touching or near utility lines; instead consult your local utility company.

Avoid pruning trees when you might increase susceptibility to important pests (e.g. in areas where oak wilt exists, avoid pruning oaks in the spring and early summer; prune trees susceptible to fire blight only during the dormant season).
Use the following decision guide for size of branches to be removed: 1) under 5 cm diameter – go ahead, 2) between 5 and 10 cm diameter – think twice, and 3) greater than 10 cm diameter – have a good reason.

Crown Thinning? Assess how a tree will be pruned from the top down.

Favor branches with strong, U-shaped angles of attachment. Remove branches with weak, V-shaped angles of attachment and/or included bark. ? Ideally, lateral branches should be evenly spaced on the main stem of young trees. Remove any branches that rub or cross another branch.

Make sure that lateral branches are no more than one-half to three-quarters of the diameter of the stem to discourage the development of co-dominant stems.

Do not remove more than one-quarter of the living crown of a tree at one time. If it is necessary to remove more, do it over successive years.

Crown Raising

Always maintain live branches on at least two-thirds of a tree’s total height. Removing too many lower branches will hinder the development of a strong stem.
Remove basal sprouts and vigorous epicormic sprouts.

Crown Reduction

Use crown reduction pruning only when absolutely necessary. Make the pruning cut at a lateral branch that is at least one-third the diameter of the stem to be removed.

If it is necessary to remove more than half of the foliage from a branch, remove the entire branch.

Kaysville, Utah

About Kaysville, Utah

Kaysville is a city in Davis County, Utah. It is part of the Ogden–Clearfield metropolitan area. The population was 27,300 at the time of the 2010 census, with an estimated population of 32,390 in 2019.

Neighborhoods in Kaysville, Utah

Kaysville, West Layton, Kaysville pickleball courts, Gailey Park, Roundy Campground, Ponds Park, Pioneer Park, Kaysville ponds, Kaysville City Cemetery, Lennar at Talbot Heights, Heritage Park, Barnes Park, Hess Farms Park, East Mountain Wilderness Park, Fruit Heights, Angel Street Soccer Complex

Things To Do in Kaysville, Utah

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Reviews for Truco Services, Inc. Kaysville, Utah

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Marissa Burton

starstarstarstarstar (5)

TruCo is a great company to work with for your commercial landscaping and snow removal needs! Rob is excellent to work with. He is very timely in providing quotes and has a lot of great feedback and suggestions to provide on what will look great, fit within your budget, and is knowledgeable on plants that will thrive with Utah's ever changing weather conditions. I have been impressed with TruCo's landscape maintenance as well as landscape projects which have had a quick turnaround time. I would highly recommend using TruCo!

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Yvonne Olson

starstarstarstarstar (5)

I experienced excellent all around service from landscape improvement design, scheduling and professional installation completed within the timeline we discussed. Rob, the manager does an excellent job of communicating, overseeing the install crew and making sure his customers are 100% satisfied with the job. Highly recommend TruCo for all landscaping needs.

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Heather Whiting

starstarstarstarstar (5)

We hired TruCo to do a new install of sprinklers, sod, spigot, and bury downspouts. We even have a wifi transmitter for our control box we can access from an app on our phones! We absolutely love the professionalism and quality of their work!! Our sales rep Pete was the best to work with, we highly recommend him to anyone in the market for landscaping. It was awesome seeing the finished results and we're incredibly excited to enjoy our new space!

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Jan Merideth

starstarstarstarstar (5)

TruCo installed all of our plants, trees and shrubs, drip lines, and boulders. Then they installed our amazing beautiful firepit. We loved the results and they guarantee all plants and trees up to a year. They were great and easy to work with. They listened to our needs and wants and met them 100%. Our HOA sent us a letter telling us they appreciate all the work and the way our yard looks and let us know we added value to the property. Win/Win

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Michael Sorensen

starstarstarstarstar (1)

Avoid working for this company. They will promise you things to get you in, then tell you there is no documentation about said things. Extremely unprofessional. Update to response - please dont try to justify. PTO was promised by the hiring manager on day 1 due to the conditions. Your company refusing to honor the agreement and tell me that there is no documentation is the problem. I quit after being told that you would not honor the PTO, not before.

Ponytail Palm Plant Care

Ponytail Palm Plant Care

Ponytail Palm Plant Care

Ponytail Palm Plant Profile

The ponytail palm (Beaucarnea recurvata) makes a surprisingly interesting desktop plant, considering that when grown outdoors it can be a full-size tree that towers over homes. When planted outside in full sun, ponytail palms can reach 30 feet tall, but they typically stay closer to 6 feet tall at maturity when grown indoors. Despite the common name and the appearance of the foliage, this plant is not a true palm, but rather a member of the Asparagaceae family that includes edible asparagus.

Indoors, these novel little trees are often grown in shallow pots, with a tuft of strappy green leaves emerging from a bulbous stem that seems to erupt from the soil. (The bulbous trunk is the source of one of its common names, “elephant’s foot.”) Given time and the right conditions, a small desktop plant will grow into respectable specimen plants, up to 6 feet in height or more. Ponytail palm is native to arid regions in Central America and is among the easiest of small trees to grow indoors.

When planted outdoors, spring is the traditional planting time, though a ponytail palm can be planted at almost any time. This is a very slow-growing, long-lived species. It may take five years or more for a 1-foot-tall plant to double in size.

Botanical Name Beaucarnea recurvata
Common Name Ponytail palm, elephant’s foot
Plant Type Broadleaf evergreen shrub/ tree
Mature Size 6 to 8 feet tall; 3- to 5-foot spread (up to 30 feet tall when planted outdoors)
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Sandy, well-draining soil
Soil pH 6.5 to 7.5 (neutral)
Bloom Time Seasonal bloomer
Flower Color Creamy white
Hardiness Zones 10 to 11 (USDA); usually grown as a houseplant
Native Area Semi-desert areas of Central America

How to Grow a Ponytail Palm

Ponytail palm can be grown as an outdoor plant only in USDA Zones 10 and 11, where it prefers a sandy soil in a full-sun location. When grown outdoors, it is best planted in a cactus/succulent potting mix and placed in the sunniest spot you can find; in the right location, it is largely trouble-free, provided it gets a modest amount of water at regular intervals.

As an indoor plant, the ponytail is basically a “plant it and forget it” kind of plant, providing it has enough light to thrive and somewhat steady water throughout the growing season. Keep in mind, though, that the ponytail palm is an extremely slow-growing plant, so don’t expect your desktop plant to transform into a corner specimen in one or two growing seasons.

Light

Ponytail palms like full sun or bright indirect light. When grown as an indoor plant, situate it in the brightest location you can find—a window that gets direct sun or plenty of indirect light.

Soil

This plant is native to semi-desert areas of Central America, and when planted outdoors it does best in relatively sandy but organically rich soil. As in indoor plant, it does well in a cactus/succulent potting mix augmented with peat to improve its richness.

Water

For potted indoor plants, water a ponytail palm during the growing season every seven to 14 days. The bulbous stem stores water, so be careful not to overwater it. During the winter season, cut back watering to monthly.
A ponytail palm planted in the garden rarely needs to be watered if you get any kind of regular rain. In dry climates or during periods of drought, a modest watering every two weeks is sufficient.

Temperature and Humidity

Ponytail palms prefer warm, arid temperatures, above 60 degrees Fahrenheit. However, they will survive down to 50 degrees Fahrenheit, providing these temps are not prolonged.

Fertilizer

Feed weekly with liquid fertilizer during the growing season, or use a slow-release pellet fertilizer in the spring. Reduce feeding during the winter.

Potting and Repotting

For growing indoors, pot a ponytail palm in a smallish container filled with a cactus/ succulent potting mix that is blended with some peat. Repot in the spring as needed. If your goal is to grow a large palm tree, repot it every year, but if you want to keep it smaller, repot every two or three years. Ponytail palms will thrive when slightly underpotted in a container that confines the roots.

Propagating Ponytail Palms

Ponytail palms sometimes develop offsets (“pups”) from the base, which can be removed and potted up individually. Generally, however, this is a difficult task to master because of a lack of roots on the offsets. If you want to try, use a rooting hormone to stimulate new root growth on the offset. A ponytail palm rarely (if ever) flowers indoors to produce viable seeds.

Pruning a Ponytail Palm

Damaged leaves should have the tips trimmed off back to healthy tissue. If the offsets (“pups”) send up secondary shoots, you can prune these away to maintain a central trunk and classic tree-like appearance. However, a multi-stemmed tree is often desirable, and many people welcome these secondary shoots.

Common Pests/Diseases

Like most houseplants, a ponytail palm can be susceptible to spider mites, mealybugs, and scale. Horticultural soaps or oils are good non-toxic methods for controlling these pests.

Potential but rare disease problems include leaf spots, stem rots, and bacterial leaf streak. Watering too much is the most common cause of fungal problems and stem rot.

Ponytail palms are unique-looking, long-lived indoor plants that thrive on benign neglect. They are very easy to grow, provided that you don’t overwater them! Here’s how to grow and care for a ponytail palm in your home.

About Ponytail Palms

Despite its name and palm-like appearance, the ponytail palm is not a true “palm.” In fact, it is more closely related to desert plants in the Agave and Yucca genera (such as Joshua trees).

The typical ponytail palm consists of a large, domed “stump,” which tapers off into a thinner stem. From the top of the stem, one or more rosettes of long, green, leathery leaves develop as the plant ages. Indoors, the leaves can get up to 3 feet long, but outdoors, they may be double that length.

In its native environment (eastern Mexico), the entire plant has been known to reach up to 30 feet in height! However, ponytail palms that are grown in gardens as landscape plants don’t usually get to be more than 10 feet tall. Kept indoors, they are rarely taller than 4 feet.

Care of this plant is generally simple; the most common difficulty is having to adapt your watering habits to its watering needs!

PLANTING

Choosing Soil and a Pot
Use a fast draining soil, such as a cacti and succulent potting mix. If you have potting soil, sand, and perlite already on hand, you can create your own desert soil mixture: Simply mix 1 part potting soil, 1 part perlite, and 1 part sand.
Select a pot that has a hole in the bottom, so that excess water can be drained off. Ponytail palms do not like to sit in moist soil for very long.

Use a clay pot if possible; the porous material will absorb some of the water, drying out the soil more quickly (a good thing for cacti and succulents).

GROWING

How to Care for Ponytail Palms
Ponytail palms prefer to have as much light as possible, so place the plant in a bright location. Bright, indirect sunlight is best.
Keep soil fairly dry. Water from spring through fall, allowing the top inch or two of soil to dry completely before re-watering. During the winter, only water occasionally.

To water, soak the soil and allow the excess water to drain through the bottom of the pot into a dish. Let the pot sit in the dish for several minutes, then dump out any remaining water in the dish.

Fertilize in the spring with a cacti/succulent fertilizer and bring into a brighter room for the summer months.

Normal room temperature is fine for most of the year, but keep the plant slightly cooler in the winter (50-55°F / 10-13°C) to replicate the natural dormancy cycle.

During winter, don’t let the plant sit too close to cold windows at night, as it can be severely damaged by freezing temperatures.

Repotting a Ponytail Palm

Ponytail palms will remain small if kept in a small pot. They can go for many years before needing to be repotted. Repotting every other year at the most is all a ponytail palm needs.

Moving the plant to a larger pot will give it room to grow in both height and girth. However, older plants may become difficult to manage due to their sheer size and weight if not kept on the smaller size.
When selecting a new pot, pick one large enough to leave about an inch or so of space between the ponytail palm’s trunk and the rim of the pot.

Note: Use caution when handling a ponytail palm, as its leaves have tiny serrated edges.

HARVESTING

Propagation

Rarely, a ponytail palm may produce an offset—a small baby plant that stems from the base of the adult plant. These can be cut off at the base when they reach at least 4 inches in height and planted in a succulent potting mix. Before planting, allow the cut wound to heal, then apply a bit of rooting hormone (available online and in nurseries) to encourage the offset to root.

WIT AND WISDOM

The plant’s unusual shape and coloration has granted it another strange nickname: the Elephant’s Foot Palm.
Are ponytail palms poisonous to cats? While the leaves of a ponytail palm are not toxic to feline (or canine) companions, their foliage does have abrasive edges that could irritate a pet’s mouth, so we suggest keeping the plant out of reach.

PESTS/DISEASES

Overwatering can result in stem rot. If you withhold watering, the plant may be able to internally remedy the problem. Signs of stem rot include yellowing leaves and a caudex (the plant’s base and stem) that is soft or squishy.

Spider mites and scale insects may find their way to the leaves, but can be dealt with by rubbing a cloth of dish soap and water on the stems. Spider mites are evidenced by the presence of spider-like webbing on the plant.

Brown tips on leaves can be a sign of over fertilizing or under watering, so adjust your husbandry practices appropriately. They can also be a sign that the plant is getting too much direct sunlight and too little water.

Draper, Utah

About Draper, Utah

Draper is a city in Salt Lake and Utah counties in the U.S. state of Utah, about 20 miles (32 km) south of Salt Lake City along the Wasatch Front. As of the 2020 census, the population is 51,017, up from 7,143 in 1990.

Neighborhoods in Draper, Utah

Willowbrook Estates

Things To Do in Draper, Utah

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Reviews for Truco Services, Inc. Draper, Utah

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Marissa Burton

starstarstarstarstar (5)

TruCo is a great company to work with for your commercial landscaping and snow removal needs! Rob is excellent to work with. He is very timely in providing quotes and has a lot of great feedback and suggestions to provide on what will look great, fit within your budget, and is knowledgeable on plants that will thrive with Utah's ever changing weather conditions. I have been impressed with TruCo's landscape maintenance as well as landscape projects which have had a quick turnaround time. I would highly recommend using TruCo!

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Yvonne Olson

starstarstarstarstar (5)

I experienced excellent all around service from landscape improvement design, scheduling and professional installation completed within the timeline we discussed. Rob, the manager does an excellent job of communicating, overseeing the install crew and making sure his customers are 100% satisfied with the job. Highly recommend TruCo for all landscaping needs.

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Raymond Ferraro

starstarstarstarstar (5)

Michael the tree guy is so smart.  He knows all about tree removal, cutting and tree trimming services.  Truco did amazing work for me.  We had 16 very old and mature trees removed. The Truco team showed up on time ready to get the job done.  They did amazing with clean up truly respect your property and your life.  Communication was really good.  They needed to move some things to get the stump grinder to our yard they put things back with no issues.  Extremely professional and truly know what they're doing.  If anyone is looking for professional tree removal or tree service you really should call Jason or Michael at Truco.

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Heather Whiting

starstarstarstarstar (5)

We hired TruCo to do a new install of sprinklers, sod, spigot, and bury downspouts. We even have a wifi transmitter for our control box we can access from an app on our phones! We absolutely love the professionalism and quality of their work!! Our sales rep Pete was the best to work with, we highly recommend him to anyone in the market for landscaping. It was awesome seeing the finished results and we're incredibly excited to enjoy our new space!

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Jan Merideth

starstarstarstarstar (5)

TruCo installed all of our plants, trees and shrubs, drip lines, and boulders. Then they installed our amazing beautiful firepit. We loved the results and they guarantee all plants and trees up to a year. They were great and easy to work with. They listened to our needs and wants and met them 100%. Our HOA sent us a letter telling us they appreciate all the work and the way our yard looks and let us know we added value to the property. Win/Win

Planting A Lemon Tree

Planting A Lemon Tree

Planting A Lemon Tree

How to plant and grow lemons

Lemon trees make an excellent addition to almost every backyard and if you get the growing process right, you’re ensured a regular, plentiful crop. The good news? It’s easier than you think to grow your own lemons – great news for all the foodies out there!

Lemon tree varieties

The most common varieties grown in Australia are Eureka, Lisbon and Meyer. Eureka produces its main crop in winter with smaller crops in spring and summer. Eureka lemons have relatively few seeds and the tree is virtually thornless growing to around four metres in height.
Lisbon is thornier and produces its main crop in winter and tends to be more cold tolerant. It grows around three to four metres tall.
Meyers has a milder, less acidic flavour with a smooth, thin rind. Its main crop is produced in winter but it can crop continuously throughout the year. It’s a small tree growing to around two metres in height, making it the ideal lemon tree to grow in a pot.

How to grow a lemon tree

Climate

The preferred climate depends on the variety of lemon, however most do well in warm climates. They tolerate drought but are sensitive to frost.

Aspect

Lemon trees require a position in full sunlight that is protected from winds and frost. If you’re growing a lemon tree in a cooler climate, plant it close to a brick wall so it can utilise the radiating heat.

Soil

Lemon trees can tolerate a range of different soils but they mostly prefer slightly acidic, well-drained soil.

Planting

You can plant lemon trees at any time of year in warmer climates, as long as you water regularly. In cold regions plant in spring to protect it from late frosts.

Citrus will thrive in large pots – choose one that is 50cm in diameter or more, with plenty of drainage holes, and fill with a premium quality potting mix. It’s a great idea to stand your pot on a trolley so you can easily move the pot to a sunnier or more protected position with the changing seasons.

If you’re planting a lemon tree in the garden, start by digging a hole twice a wide and as deep as the pot your citrus comes in. Remove it from the pot and inspect the roots, untangling any that appear to be circling around or those that are tightly packed into the shape of the pot. Plant so that the original soil level in the pot is level with your garden soil. Backfill the hole with the removed crumbled soil, and work compost or well-rotted cow manure into the top 10cm of soil. Add a mulch of straw to the soil surface, but keep this away from the trunk. Water immediately after planting and from then on keep the soil slightly moist.

Water

Lemons grow best in soils that are moist but not soggy. Water your tree every seven to 10 days during the summer, providing it with 4 to 6 inches of water each month. Allow the soil around mature trees to partially dry between waterings. Overwatered lemon trees may suffer from crown and root rots, while those not watered enough frequently shed blossoms and don’t produce as much fruit.

Feeding

Citrus produce loads of fruit! All that flowering and fruiting is a big consumer of energy so make sure you feed up your lemon tree to ensure further crops. You can tell if your tree is undernourished by poor stunted growth or yellowing leaves. Feed twice a year with citrus food, once in February and again in August. Follow the directions on the packet and water the soil well both before and after applying the fertiliser.

How to prune lemon trees

Pruning lemon trees is important for growing healthier and more plentiful fruit.

It’s best to prune your lemon tree from late winter to early spring, right after harvest. Young trees should be pruned to establish a good shape, remove any sprouts or weak limbs so the plant can focus on growing a strong canopy.

When to harvest your lemons

Lemon trees generally take around two to three years to bear fruit and harvesting depends on the variety of plant. Eurekas produce fruit two to three time a year while Lisbons fruit once a year.

Lemons are ready to harvest when they have developed full colour and flavour. Harvest lemons when their peels are yellow or only a green tinge, with a slightly glossy appearance. The longer the fruit stays on the tree the sweeter it will become so some suggest picking and tasting your fruit to determine how the crop is developing.

To pick lemons, use the twist, tilt and snap method. Take the entire fruit in your hand and twist it gently, tilting and pulling away until it breaks free.

How to propagate a lemon tree

To propagate a lemon tree it’s best to take a cutting in late spring or early summer. Choose a 15 centimetre piece of a healthy young branch without fruit or flowers and at least two to three nodes at the base. Us a non-serrated, sanitised knife to cut the stem at a 90-degree angle. Wrap cuttings in a moist paper towel to prevent dehydration.

Remove bottom leaves so the cutting has only three or so leaves at the top and dust the bottom with a hormone-based rooting powder. Plant the cutting in a large, well-draining pot with seed starter mix and cover it with a large clear plastic bag to create a warm, humid environment. Use chopsticks, wire or dowel to keep the bag from resting on the cutting. Keep the soil moist.

Once roots develop, remove the plastic covering. After a few days move the cutting outside in a sheltered location. Once the roots of the plant nearly fill its pot its time to plant it in a larger pot or garden.

Pests and disease

Scale insect: Found on stems and leaves, they have a waxy brown shell. Spray these sap-sucking insects with organic eco oil.

Leaf Miner: Tiny burrowing mites causing silvery trails and twisted leaves. They attack only fresh new leaves, so spray the new growth once a fortnight with eco oil until the leaves have matured and turned a dark green colour.

Stink bugs: May appear in large numbers from October. Knock them off the branches and squish them underfoot, but wear protective goggles as then bugs can squirt a painful liquid into your eyes.

Sooty mould: A black crusty coating on the leaves indicating the presence of a sap-sucking insect lurking higher up, such as aphids, scale or mealybugs. Treat the insect above and the sooty mould will clear up by itself. The mould is not harmful, it just looks yucky.

As long as you provide their basic needs, growing lemons can be a very rewarding experience. Outdoors Lemons are more cold-sensitive than all other citrus trees. Due to this cold sensitivity, lemon trees should be planted near the south side of the home. Lemon trees need protection from frost. Growing them near the house should help with this. Lemon trees also require full sunlight for adequate growth. While lemon trees can tolerate a range of soils, including poor soil, most prefer well-drained, slightly acidic soil. Lemon trees should be set slightly higher than ground. Therefore, dig a hole somewhat shallower than the length of the root ball. Place the tree in the hole and replace soil, tamping firmly as you go. Water sufficiently and add some mulch to help retain moisture. Lemon trees require deep watering once weekly. If necessary, pruning may be done to maintain their shape and height. Indoors Lemons can make excellent houseplants and will be comfortable in a container as long it provides adequate drainage and room for growth. Heights of around 3 to 5 feet (1-1.5 m.) can be expected for a lemon tree growing indoors. They also prefer well-draining, slightly acidic soil. Keep the soil evenly moist and fertilize as needed. Lemon trees thrive within a normal temperature range of about 70 F. (21 C.) throughout the day and 55 F. (13 C.) at night. Keep in mind that they will usually go into dormancy when temperatures fall below 55 F. (13 C.) Lemon trees require lots of light; therefore, they may need to be supplemented with fluorescent grow lights during winter. Explore More Lemon trees can be placed outdoors during warm periods, which is also recommended in order to increase their chances of bearing fruit. When you grow a lemon tree indoors, bees and other insects are unable to pollinate them.

Therefore, you should place them outdoors during summer unless you want to hand pollinate. Propagating for Lemon Tree Cultivation Many lemon trees are container-grown, purchased straight from the nursery. However, they can be propagated through cuttings, air layering, and seeds. The variety usually dictates the best method used; yet, different people see different results using different methods. Therefore, it’s best to find the method that works for you. The majority find it easier to propagate lemons by rooting large cuttings. While seeds can be used, the seedlings are usually slow to bear. When choosing to grow from seeds, allow them to dry out for a week or two. Once dried, plant the seeds about an inch deep in good potting soil and cover with clear plastic wrap. Set the pot in a sunny location and wait for it to reach 6 to 12 inches (15-30 cm.) before transplanting outdoors or to another pot.

Murray, Utah

About Murray, Utah

Murray is a city situated on the Wasatch Front in the core of Salt Lake Valley in the U.S. state of Utah. Named for territorial governor Eli Murray, it is the state's fourteenth largest city. According to the 2020 census, Murray had a population of 50,637. Murray shares borders with Taylorsville, Holladay, South Salt Lake and West Jordan, Utah. Once teeming with heavy industry, Murray's industrial sector now has little trace and has been replaced by major mercantile sectors. Known for its central location in Salt Lake County, Murray has been called the Hub of Salt Lake County. Unlike most of its neighboring communities, Murray operates its own police, fire, power, water, library, and parks and recreation departments and has its own school district. While maintaining many of its own services, Murray has one of the lowest city tax rates in the state.

Neighborhoods in Murray, Utah

Murray Oakes, Grant Park, Southwood Park, Murray Park, Murray Park Restrooms, Willow Pond Park, Neighborhood Veterinary Care

Things To Do in Murray, Utah

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Map of Murray, Utah

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Reviews for Truco Services, Inc. Murray, Utah

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Marissa Burton

starstarstarstarstar (5)

TruCo is a great company to work with for your commercial landscaping and snow removal needs! Rob is excellent to work with. He is very timely in providing quotes and has a lot of great feedback and suggestions to provide on what will look great, fit within your budget, and is knowledgeable on plants that will thrive with Utah's ever changing weather conditions. I have been impressed with TruCo's landscape maintenance as well as landscape projects which have had a quick turnaround time. I would highly recommend using TruCo!

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Yvonne Olson

starstarstarstarstar (5)

I experienced excellent all around service from landscape improvement design, scheduling and professional installation completed within the timeline we discussed. Rob, the manager does an excellent job of communicating, overseeing the install crew and making sure his customers are 100% satisfied with the job. Highly recommend TruCo for all landscaping needs.

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Raymond Ferraro

starstarstarstarstar (5)

Michael the tree guy is so smart.  He knows all about tree removal, cutting and tree trimming services.  Truco did amazing work for me.  We had 16 very old and mature trees removed. The Truco team showed up on time ready to get the job done.  They did amazing with clean up truly respect your property and your life.  Communication was really good.  They needed to move some things to get the stump grinder to our yard they put things back with no issues.  Extremely professional and truly know what they're doing.  If anyone is looking for professional tree removal or tree service you really should call Jason or Michael at Truco.

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Heather Whiting

starstarstarstarstar (5)

We hired TruCo to do a new install of sprinklers, sod, spigot, and bury downspouts. We even have a wifi transmitter for our control box we can access from an app on our phones! We absolutely love the professionalism and quality of their work!! Our sales rep Pete was the best to work with, we highly recommend him to anyone in the market for landscaping. It was awesome seeing the finished results and we're incredibly excited to enjoy our new space!

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Jan Merideth

starstarstarstarstar (5)

TruCo installed all of our plants, trees and shrubs, drip lines, and boulders. Then they installed our amazing beautiful firepit. We loved the results and they guarantee all plants and trees up to a year. They were great and easy to work with. They listened to our needs and wants and met them 100%. Our HOA sent us a letter telling us they appreciate all the work and the way our yard looks and let us know we added value to the property. Win/Win

Tree Pruning

Tree Pruning

The main reasons for pruning ornamental and shade trees include safety, health, and aesthetics. In addition, pruning can be used to stimulate fruit production and increase the value of timber. Pruning for safety involves removing branches that could fall and cause injury or property damage, trimming branches that interfere with lines of sight on streets or driveways, and removing branches that grow into utility lines. Safety pruning can be largely avoided by carefully choosing species that will not grow beyond the space available to them, and have strength and form characteristics that are suited to the site.

Pruning for health involves removing diseased or insect-infested wood, thinning the crown to increase airflow and reduce some pest problems, and removing crossing and rubbing branches. Pruning can best be used to encourage trees to develop a strong structure and reduce the likelihood of damage during severe weather. Removing broken or damaged limbs encourage wound closure.

Pruning for aesthetics involves enhancing the natural form and character of trees or stimulating flower production. Pruning for form can be especially important on open grown trees that do very little self-pruning.

All woody plants shed branches in response to shading and competition. Branches that do not produce enough carbohydrates from photosynthesis to sustain themselves die and are eventually shed; the resulting wounds are sealed by woundwood (callus). Branches that are poorly attached may be broken off by wind and accumulation of snow and ice. Branches removed by such natural forces often result in large, ragged wounds that rarely seal. Pruning as a cultural practice can be used to supplement or replace these natural processes and increase the strength and longevity of plants.

Trees have many forms, but the most common types are pyramidal (excurrent) or spherical (decurrent). Trees with pyramidal crowns, e.g., most conifers, have a strong central stem and lateral branches that are more or less horizontal and do not compete with the central stem for dominance. Trees with spherical crowns, e.g., most hardwoods, have many lateral branches that may compete for dominance. To reduce the need for pruning it is best to consider a tree’s natural form. It is very difficult to impose an unnatural form on a tree without a commitment to constant maintenance.

Pollarding and topiary are extreme examples of pruning to create a desired, unnatural effect. Pollarding is the practice of pruning trees annually to remove all new growth. The following year, a profusion of new branches is produced at the ends of the branches. Topiary involves pruning trees and shrubs into geometric or animal shapes. Both pollarding and topiary are specialized applications that involve pruning to change the natural form of trees. As topiary demonstrates, given enough care and attention plants can be pruned into nearly any form. Yet just as proper pruning can enhance the form or character of plants, improper pruning can destroy it.

Pruning Approaches

Producing strong structure should be the emphasis when pruning young trees. As trees mature, the aim of pruning will shift to maintaining tree structure, form, health and appearance.

Proper pruning cuts are made at a node, the point at which one branch or twig attaches to another. In the spring of the year growth begins at buds, and twigs grow until a new node is formed. The length of a branch between nodes is called an internode.

Crown thinning – branches to be removed are shaded in blue; pruning cuts should be made at the red lines. No more than one-fourth of the living branches should be removed at one time.

The most common types of pruning are:

Crown thinning, primarily for hardwoods, is the selective removal of branches to increase light penetration and air movement throughout the crown of a tree. The intent is to maintain or develop a tree’s structure and form. To avoid unnecessary stress and prevent excessive production of epicormic sprouts, no more than one-quarter of the living crown should be removed at a time. If it is necessary to remove more, it should be done over successive years.

Types of branch unions

Branches with strong U-shaped angles of attachment should be retained. Branches with narrow, V-shaped angles of attachment often form included bark and should be removed. Included bark forms when two branches grow at sharply acute angles to one another, producing a wedge of inward-rolled bark between them. Included bark prevents strong attachment of branches, often causing a crack at the point below where the branches meet. Codominant stems that are approximately the same size and arise from the same position often form included bark. Removing some of the lateral branches from a codominant stem can reduce its growth enough to allow the other stem to become dominant.
Lateral branches should be no more than one half to three-quarters of the diameter of the stem at the point of attachment. Avoid producing “lion’s tails,” tufts of branches and foliage at the ends of branches, caused by removing all inner lateral branches and foliage. Lion’s tails can result in sunscalding, abundant epicormic sprouts, and weak branch structure and breakage.

Crown raising is the practice of removing branches from the bottom of the crown of a tree to provide clearance for pedestrians, vehicles, buildings, lines of site, or to develop a clear stem for timber production. Also, removing lower branches on white pines can prevent blister rust. For street trees the minimum clearance is often specified by municipal ordinance. After pruning, the ratio of the living crown to total tree height should be at least two-thirds.

On young trees “temporary” branches may be retained along the stem to encourage taper and protect trees from vandalism and sun scald. Less vigorous shoots should be selected as temporary branches and should be about 10 to 15 cm apart along the stem. They should be pruned annually to slow their growth and should be removed eventually.

Crown reduction pruning is most often used when a tree has grown too large for its permitted space. This method, sometimes called drop crotch pruning, is preferred to topping because it results in a more natural appearance, increases the time before pruning is needed again, and minimizes stress.

Crown reduction pruning, a method of last resort, often results in large pruning wounds to stems that may lead to decay. This method should never be used on a tree with a pyramidal growth form. A better long term solution is to remove the tree and replace it
Crown reduction – branches to be removed are shaded in blue; pruning cuts should be made where indicated with red lines. To prevent branch dieback, cuts should be made at lateral branches that are at least one-third the diameter of the stem at their union.

Pruning Cuts

Pruning cuts should be made so that only branch tissue is removed and stem tissue is not damaged. At the point where the branch attaches to the stem, branch and stem tissues remain separate, but are contiguous. If only branch tissues are cut when pruning, the stem tissues of the tree will probably not become decayed, and the wound will seal more effectively.

1. Pruning living branches
To find the proper place to cut a branch, look for the branch collar that grows from the stem tissue at the underside of the base of the branch. On the upper surface, there is usually a branch bark ridge that runs (more or less) parallel to the branch angle, along the stem of the tree. A proper pruning cut does not damage either the branch bark ridge or the branch collar.

A proper cut begins just outside the branch bark ridge and angles down away from the stem of the tree, avoiding injury to the branch collar. Make the cut as close as possible to the stem in the branch axil, but outside the branch bark ridge, so that stem tissue is not injured and the wound can seal in the shortest time possible. If the cut is too far from the stem, leaving a branch stub, the branch tissue usually dies and wound wood forms from the stem tissue. Wound closure is delayed because the wound wood must seal over the stub that was left.

The quality of pruning cuts can be evaluated by examining pruning wounds after one growing season. A concentric ring of wound wood will form from proper pruning cuts. Flush cuts made inside the branch bark ridge or branch collar, result in pronounced development of wound wood on the sides of the pruning wounds with very little wound wood forming on the top or bottom. As described above, stub cuts result in the death of the remaining branch and wound wood forms around the base from stem tissues. When pruning small branches with hand pruners, make sure the tools are sharp enough branch collar. This cut will prevent a falling branch from tearing the stem tissue as it pulls away from the tree.

1. The second cut should be outside the first cut, all the way through the branch, leaving a short stub.
2. The stub is then cut just outside the branch bark ridge/branch collar, completing the operation.

2. Pruning dead branches

Prune dead branches in much the same way as live branches. Making the correct cut is usually easy because the branch collar and the branch bark ridge, can be distinguished from the dead branch, because they continue to grow (Fig. 6A). Make the pruning cut just outside of the ring of woundwood tissue that has formed, being careful not to cause unnecessary injury (Fig. 6C). Large dead branches should be supported with one hand or cut with the threestep method, just as live branches. Cutting large living branches with the three step method is more critical because of the greater likelihood of bark ripping.

3. Drop Crotch Cuts
A proper cut begins just above the branch bark ridge and extends through the stem parallel to the branch bark ridge. Usually, the stem being removed is too large to be supported with one hand, so the three cut method should be used.

1. With the first cut, make a notch on the side of the stem away from the branch to be retained, well above the branch crotch.
2. Begin the second cut inside the branch crotch, staying well above the branch bark ridge, and cut through the stem above the notch.
3. Cut the remaining stub just inside the branch bark ridge through the stem parallel to the branch bark ridge.
To prevent the abundant growth of epicormics sprouts on the stem below the cut, or dieback of the stem to a lower lateral branch, make the cut at a lateral branch that is at least one-third of the diameter of the stem at their union.

South Jordan, Utah

About South Jordan, Utah

South Jordan is a city in south central Salt Lake County, Utah, United States, 18 miles (29 km) south of Salt Lake City. Part of the Salt Lake City metropolitan area, the city lies in the Salt Lake Valley along the banks of the Jordan River between the 10,000-foot (3,000 m) Oquirrh Mountains and the 11,000-foot (3,400 m) Wasatch Mountains. The city has 3.5 miles (5.6 km) of the Jordan River Parkway that contains fishing ponds, trails, parks, and natural habitats. The Salt Lake County fair grounds and equestrian park, 67-acre (27 ha) Oquirrh Lake, and 37 public parks are located inside the city. As of 2020, there were 77,487 people in South Jordan.

Neighborhoods in South Jordan, Utah

South Jordan

Things To Do in South Jordan, Utah

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Map of South Jordan, Utah

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Driving Directions from Supreme Tree Experts to 4640 Commerce Dr, Murray, UT 84107, USA

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Reviews for Truco Services, Inc. South Jordan, Utah

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Marissa Burton

starstarstarstarstar (5)

TruCo is a great company to work with for your commercial landscaping and snow removal needs! Rob is excellent to work with. He is very timely in providing quotes and has a lot of great feedback and suggestions to provide on what will look great, fit within your budget, and is knowledgeable on plants that will thrive with Utah's ever changing weather conditions. I have been impressed with TruCo's landscape maintenance as well as landscape projects which have had a quick turnaround time. I would highly recommend using TruCo!

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Yvonne Olson

starstarstarstarstar (5)

I experienced excellent all around service from landscape improvement design, scheduling and professional installation completed within the timeline we discussed. Rob, the manager does an excellent job of communicating, overseeing the install crew and making sure his customers are 100% satisfied with the job. Highly recommend TruCo for all landscaping needs.

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Raymond Ferraro

starstarstarstarstar (5)

Michael the tree guy is so smart.  He knows all about tree removal, cutting and tree trimming services.  Truco did amazing work for me.  We had 16 very old and mature trees removed. The Truco team showed up on time ready to get the job done.  They did amazing with clean up truly respect your property and your life.  Communication was really good.  They needed to move some things to get the stump grinder to our yard they put things back with no issues.  Extremely professional and truly know what they're doing.  If anyone is looking for professional tree removal or tree service you really should call Jason or Michael at Truco.

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Heather Whiting

starstarstarstarstar (5)

We hired TruCo to do a new install of sprinklers, sod, spigot, and bury downspouts. We even have a wifi transmitter for our control box we can access from an app on our phones! We absolutely love the professionalism and quality of their work!! Our sales rep Pete was the best to work with, we highly recommend him to anyone in the market for landscaping. It was awesome seeing the finished results and we're incredibly excited to enjoy our new space!

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Jan Merideth

starstarstarstarstar (5)

TruCo installed all of our plants, trees and shrubs, drip lines, and boulders. Then they installed our amazing beautiful firepit. We loved the results and they guarantee all plants and trees up to a year. They were great and easy to work with. They listened to our needs and wants and met them 100%. Our HOA sent us a letter telling us they appreciate all the work and the way our yard looks and let us know we added value to the property. Win/Win

Majesty Palm

Majesty Palm

Majesty Palm

The Majesty Palm, also known as the Ravenea rivularis, is a tropical palm tree that is native to Madagascar. It is a popular indoor and outdoor plant due to its elegant and striking appearance. The Majesty Palm can grow up to 30 feet tall in its natural habitat, but when grown in pots, it typically reaches between 6 and 8 feet tall.

The leaves of the Majesty Palm are large and feathery, reaching up to 4 feet long. They are a glossy green color and are arranged in a graceful arching pattern. The trunk of the palm is slender and smooth, with a gray-brown color. The tree produces small, insignificant flowers that are followed by small, round berries.

The Majesty Palm prefers a well-draining soil that is rich in organic matter. It prefers a warm and humid environment, making it an ideal plant for a greenhouse or a conservatory. It can also be grown outdoors in tropical and subtropical climates.

When grown indoors, the Majesty Palm prefers bright, indirect light, and should be kept away from direct sunlight. It also prefers high humidity, so regular misting or placing a tray of water near the plant can help to maintain the necessary moisture levels.

The Majesty Palm is relatively low maintenance, but it does require regular watering and fertilization. It is also important to prune off any yellow or brown leaves as they appear, to keep the plant looking healthy and tidy.

Overall, the Majesty Palm is a beautiful and striking plant that can add a touch of elegance to any indoor or outdoor space. With proper care and maintenance, it can thrive for many years and become a cherished addition to any garden or home.

Ravenea rivularis, the majestic palm, or majesty palm, is a species of tree in the family Arecaceae. They generally grow to 10 to 12 feet tall and are often marketed in stores as a “houseplant” in a pot, in its natural state, the majesty palm may sometimes grow to 98 feet (30 meters) tall.

The palm has upward-arching leaves divided into long, thin fingers. It is native to Madagascar; however, it is believed only about 900 plants are currently alive in the wild according to an assessment conducted in 2010. The species grows in several regions of Madagascar, but because those regions are totally surrounded and separated by desert, the natural spread of the species is limited. Despite its fragility as a species in the wild, it has become a very popular houseplant due to its beautiful leaves and slow-growing nature.

Adult Ravenea Rivularis, Florida USA

Ravenea rivularis grows in somewhat isolated humid habitats that are found in the otherwise dry, hot semi-arid climate of southwest Madagascar. Often, they grow huddled along the edges of riverbanks and natural lagoons, but also grow in shallow swamps where they receive ample water and humidity year-round. Due to its love for warm, moist air which can be difficult to provide consistently in most homes, the most common problem affecting those kept as houseplants is browning leaf tips. To replicate its natural growing conditions, plants should be misted with warm water daily or kept near a humidifier. It should also be watered more frequently than average houseplants especially in the spring and summer. That being said, fast-draining soil is preferable, such as soil labeled for cacti, in a well-draining container to allow water to seep through the root system and out of the pot. Although they can also suffer from lack of sunlight, Ravenea rivularis is much more sensitive to lack of water and humidity.

Majesty palms are often sold as cheap lush tropical foliage house plants but are hard to take care of for long term survivability.
In addition to ample water, Ravenea rivularis kept as a houseplant requires specialty fertilizer for palm trees which contains more magnesium than all-purpose fertilizers. Slow-release palm fertilizer with an NPK ratio of about 8-2-12 with at least 4% magnesium is ideal. A pinch of epsom salt may also be used as an alternative source of magnesium.

What Kind of Fertilizer for a Majesty Palm?

Palms are the kind of plant that does not go unnoticed in the landscape. Majesty palm (Ravenea rivularis) is a symmetrical, feather-leaved variety introduced from the rainforests of Madagascar. It is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11, but is commonly grown as a houseplant in colder climates. Like other palms, it has exacting fertilizer requirements that are not met by generic, all-purpose fertilizers.

Nutrient Needs

Most garden centers sell fertilizer products formulated specifically for palm trees and these are perfect for majesty palms. These differ from most other fertilizers because the manufacturer includes magnesium, along with other trace elements. The ideal palm fertilizer has 8 percent nitrogen, 2 percent phosphorus, 12 percent potassium and 4 percent magnesium – these are indicated with the numbers 8-2-12-4 printed on the bag. Make sure to use slow-release fertilizers only.

Outdoor Fertilizer Application

Fertilize majesty palms planted in the ground every two months between April and September, for a total of three applications per year. Spread the fertilizer evenly over the root zone of the plant at a rate of 1.5 pounds of granular fertilizer for every 100 square feet of surface area. Spread the fertilizer on the ground in an area that corresponds to the size of the canopy, at a minimum. However, the roots of large majesty palms can extend far beyond the canopy, so spread the fertilizer to twice the size of the canopy on mature specimens.

Lawns and Palms

One challenge in growing majesty palms outdoors is the negative effects of lawn fertilizer on nearby palm trees. Lawn fertilizers have a high ratio of nitrogen to potassium that causes a nutritional imbalance in palms. Plus, they contain little or no magnesium, which is necessary for palm health. However, palm fertilizer can effectively meet the nutrient needs of lawn grass. As a general rule, use only palm fertilizer within 30 feet of the trunk of majesty palms – it will not harm grasses and other plants in the vicinity.

Potted Majesty Palms

Fertilize potted palms in a slightly different manner than plants in the ground; this holds true for the majesty palm as well. Potted palms need a higher proportion of nitrogen – use a liquid fertilizer labeled 18-6-12 for best results. The potting mix usually will supply magnesium in the form of dolomite, though the initial quantity may last only six months. You can repot majesty palm each year, or add dolomite at a rate of 1 pound per cubic foot of potting soil each year. Apply a slow-release liquid fertilizer every three months to potted palms.

It is, however, a somewhat tricky plant to grow successfully indoors, requiring humid air, lots of bright indirect light, and consistent moisture. It is often referred to by houseplant experts as a “challenging” plant.

When grown indoors, majesty palm will add about one foot of growth per year until it reaches four to six feet, then slows down dramatically. It is faster-growing as an outdoor plant where its roots are free to roam—it is occasionally used as a landscape tree in California, South Florida, and other tropical regions.

Types of Majesty Palm

There are no named cultivars of Ravenea rivularis. There are only about 20 species in the Ravenea genus, all of them considered seriously endangered. R. rivularis is the only species commonly cultivated for garden or houseplant use.

Pruning

Pruning duties are generally limited to simply removing any fronds that have turned brown or yellow. This is all that’s needed to keep the plant looking good.

Propagating Majesty Palm

Majesty palms are raised exclusively from seed, and commercial production of seeds is somewhat limited. It’s highly unlikely that home growers can get access to seeds. Propagation through stem cuttings is also not an option. However, division, or separating the offset “pups” from the mother palm, is a viable option. This method is best done when you need to repot the plant so the plant is not stressed by moving it around too much. Here are the steps for division:

Remove the plant from its pot by gently rolling it out of the container while it’s on its side. Do not yank the palm from its pot from an upright position.

Look for pups, or offshoots, from the mother plant that you can potentially separate from the root ball.

Massage the root ball with your fingers to relax and soften it so you can untangle the pups. To help separate roots, use a disinfected, sharp knife if needed. You can even trim the roots of the pups if they are too long for new pots.

Place offshoots in pots with fast-draining soil. Water the pots in a sink until it starts to drip from the bottom, but do not let the pot sit in water.

Put pots in a bright spot, like its mother plant. Fertilize the baby palms in about a month.

Potting and Repotting Majesty Palm

This palm may need to be repotted annually, but more likely every other year since it grows slowly. When repotting, be careful not to damage the root ball and use a large, heavy container to prevent the palm tree from tipping over. Pots made from clay or ceramic will help stabilize these plants, which can get top-heavy.

A standard potting mix blended with additional peat moss works well as a growing medium.

In cold-winter regions, it’s quite common to move these plants back and forth between an outdoor patio and an indoor location as the seasons shift. Make sure to get your plant indoors before freezing weather arrives.

Overwintering

During the winter, a majesty palm likes a slightly cooler temperature, 55 to 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Otherwise, winter care remains the same.

Logan, Utah

About Logan, Utah

Logan is a city in Cache County, Utah, United States. The 2020 census recorded the population was 52,778. Logan is the county seat of Cache County and the principal city of the Logan metropolitan area, which includes Cache County and Franklin County, Idaho. The Logan metropolitan area contained 125,442 people as of the 2010 census and was declared by Morgan Quitno in 2005 and 2007 to be the safest in the United States in those years. Logan also is the location of the main campus of Utah State University.

Neighborhoods in Logan, Utah

Neighborhood Non-Profit Housing, Logan, Logan Canyon, Canyon Road Park, Logan City School District, Hyrum Gibbons Mount Logan Park, Logan Utah Temple, MT Logan Laundry, Logan Canyon, White Horse Village, Merlin Olsen Central Park, Logan Parks & Recreation Department, US Forest Service, Woodmore Point, OLO Builders - Logan, River Hollow Park, Dry Canyon, Lundstrom Park, Logan Community Recreation Center, Rendezvous Park

Things To Do in Logan, Utah

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Map of Logan, Utah

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Reviews for Truco Services, Inc. Logan, Utah

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Marissa Burton

starstarstarstarstar (5)

TruCo is a great company to work with for your commercial landscaping and snow removal needs! Rob is excellent to work with. He is very timely in providing quotes and has a lot of great feedback and suggestions to provide on what will look great, fit within your budget, and is knowledgeable on plants that will thrive with Utah's ever changing weather conditions. I have been impressed with TruCo's landscape maintenance as well as landscape projects which have had a quick turnaround time. I would highly recommend using TruCo!

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Yvonne Olson

starstarstarstarstar (5)

I experienced excellent all around service from landscape improvement design, scheduling and professional installation completed within the timeline we discussed. Rob, the manager does an excellent job of communicating, overseeing the install crew and making sure his customers are 100% satisfied with the job. Highly recommend TruCo for all landscaping needs.

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Raymond Ferraro

starstarstarstarstar (5)

Michael the tree guy is so smart.  He knows all about tree removal, cutting and tree trimming services.  Truco did amazing work for me.  We had 16 very old and mature trees removed. The Truco team showed up on time ready to get the job done.  They did amazing with clean up truly respect your property and your life.  Communication was really good.  They needed to move some things to get the stump grinder to our yard they put things back with no issues.  Extremely professional and truly know what they're doing.  If anyone is looking for professional tree removal or tree service you really should call Jason or Michael at Truco.

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Heather Whiting

starstarstarstarstar (5)

We hired TruCo to do a new install of sprinklers, sod, spigot, and bury downspouts. We even have a wifi transmitter for our control box we can access from an app on our phones! We absolutely love the professionalism and quality of their work!! Our sales rep Pete was the best to work with, we highly recommend him to anyone in the market for landscaping. It was awesome seeing the finished results and we're incredibly excited to enjoy our new space!

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Jan Merideth

starstarstarstarstar (5)

TruCo installed all of our plants, trees and shrubs, drip lines, and boulders. Then they installed our amazing beautiful firepit. We loved the results and they guarantee all plants and trees up to a year. They were great and easy to work with. They listened to our needs and wants and met them 100%. Our HOA sent us a letter telling us they appreciate all the work and the way our yard looks and let us know we added value to the property. Win/Win

Pine Trees Landscape

Pine Trees Landscape

Pine Trees Landscape

Pine Trees Landscaping Ideas

Pine trees are a timeless landscaping option that looks great just about anywhere. In certain landscapes, they create an almost mystical and cozy vibe. Their needles also give off a unique and pleasant aroma. Since pine trees are evergreen, they will provide lush, vibrant green colors to your landscape all year long. To decide which types of landscape trees are best for your yard, you have to think in terms of the different seasons of the year. Begin by looking at those that are valued for their spring display and end with those trees that offer visual interest in winter. The goal is not simply to have a collection of great specimens in the yard, but rather to have at least one specimen per season that will add pizzazz to your landscaping.

Simply put, you can’t go wrong incorporating these magnificent trees into your landscaping scheme. Don’t know where to start? Don’t worry, we have created a list of pine tree landscaping ideas to give you some good insight. Check out the following pine tree landscaping ideas for some creative inspiration before heading to the rest of the post.

Pine trees landscaping ideas

1. Dwarf Evergreens
Alpine garden
If you love the texture and color that pine trees provide but don’t necessarily want super tall trees in your landscape, then dwarf varieties are for you. There is still a large assortment of dwarf varieties, so you won’t be limited in your planting options whatsoever.
2. Front Yard Accent
View of a pine tree on backyard in a sunny day
One easy way to landscape your front yard is by planting a large pine tree. It serves as a show-stopping centerpiece in the yard since it can’t be missed. Surround your yard with other pine trees to increase the overall aesthetic. Create a line of trees around the property to get some more privacy, if desired.
3. Cozy Cabin
Rustic log house on the woods
It’s a well-known fact that pine trees provide one of the freshest aromas ever. A walk through pine tree-filled woods is revitalizing and refreshing. One of the best companions for a cabin is a heavy planting of pine trees. Their looming height, fresh scent, and gorgeous aesthetic are what people long for when they’re staying in a cozy cabin. By planting pine trees, you can create this same vibe.
Plant the trees in rows for a shapely look or let them spread out in a random order for the more natural appearance. Just keep in mind the way that pine trees reproduce and spread. If you have paths that snake through the area, you may have to occasionally transplant the trees off the paths.
4. Pathway Interruption
Pine tree and pergolas in retro park garden in Madrid
Break up the monotony of the pathway with a lone pine tree. This adds visual interest to the area with it’s long, texture-rich trunk and spindly branches. Having a few of these handsome trees strewn about a pathway is a great idea.
5. Well-Maintained Garden Landscape
Pine garden with mix of evergreen shrubs, annuals and perennial flowers in a beautiful national park.
Well-groomed vibrant green grass, seasonal plants, and variegated trees come together to create a stunning landscape. Well thought out landscape designs are appreciated for their creative beauty and the way the plants just seem to tell a story. The pine trees are a great ornamental accent to the space.
6. River Companions
Ornamental japanese-style garden featuring bonsai japanese maples, silver birch surrounded by tall leylandi cypress conifer hedge forming a dense evergreen barrier
Winding rivers and streams carve intriguing patterns through the land. One of the best ways to accentuate the natural flowing pattern is through the use of pine trees and other vegetation. With how many different species of pine trees there are, you’re sure to find the perfect ones for your landscape.
7. Line A Walkway
Oleander bushes and pine trees in mediterranean garden
Lining a walkway with pine trees and other evergreens ensures that the area is constantly full of new life and an abundance of lush color. Pine trees can have needles that range in color from vibrant greens to soothing blues. All these color options prevent any sense of boredom in the landscape!
8. Poolside Treasures
Large rectangular swimming pool with pine trees on the side against the background of the ocean
A palm tree is probably the typical tree you think of when it comes to poolside plants. However, pine trees shouldn’t be overlooked! They’ll add a nice pop and accentuate the pool well. With their evergreen leaves, you’ll never go a day without shade and a gorgeous tree to look at.
In a setting like this, the pine trees also serve as a partial wind-blocking wall.
9. Pine Tree Assortment
Landscape with decorative bushes and pines on a lawn
For a texture-rich landscape, use an assortment of pine trees all around the area. Dwarf pine trees, shrub-like pine trees, sky-reaching pine trees and more. Their various green tones are eye-catching in the landscape.
10. Intriguing Shapes
Korean pine trees
It’s amazing how pine trees can look like pieces of art on their own. The way their branches twist and grow is intriguing and creates quite the display in the landscape.
11. Raised Planter
Japanese-style garden with large bonsai trees
Have you ever thought about planting pine trees in a raised planter? It’s not a common trend to do so, but it makes for an awesome display and great use of space. Though tall trees already call a lot of attention to themselves, being planted in a raised container brings even more emphasis to the tree. Landscape the entire container however you wish and incorporate all kinds of plant life.

12. Organic Landscape
House with solar panels on the roof surrounded by pine tress
Let nature do its thing and take over your garden landscape all on its own. This gives the area a rugged, organic appearance with only naturally growing vegetation covering the garden area. You can still trim things back, transplant plants, or completely take out other plants to slightly influence the landscape.
13. Rock Garden Décor
Corner lot of front residential yard landscaped with a mix of evergreen shrubs, plus annuals and perennial flowers
Use a collection of different sized rocks in your garden landscape. Use rubber edging to snake a trail through the garden and fill it with crushed pebbles, then use larger river rocks on the outside of the edging. Intersperse evergreens, pine trees, and other vegetation in the garden area to make it full of life and color.
14. Japanese Garden Accents
Chinese garden
Pine trees probably weren’t on your radar when it comes to landscaping a Japanese garden. However, there are over 120 species of bonsai pine trees that are perfect for this type of landscape and garden.
15. Zen Garden
Beautiful zen garden by summer morning
No zen garden is complete without an accompanying bonsai tree. Zen gardens are meant to imitate the essence of nature. Common features include rocks, water features, paving stones, moss, pruned trees and bushes, and gravel or sand that has been raked to mimic ripples of water.
16. Great Pond Pairing
Backyard garden during night time
Small ponds are a wonderful landscaping element to pair with pine trees. The soft, blue hues of the water go great with the lush green of pines.

Other Landscaping Trees to look consider

Japanese Maple Trees

Some Japanese maples (Acer palmatum) are very versatile, too, but in a different way. They are great not only in autumn but also during the summer season. They display the vibrant red color we associate with fall foliage when most other trees still bear green leaves.

Magnolia Trees

Any well-planned yard will contain at least one flowering landscape tree of exceptional beauty. Magnolia trees (Magnolia spp.) are among the showiest specimens. While star magnolias often bloom earlier, saucer magnolias provide a larger bloom.

Apple Trees

You do not have to be a farmer to want to grow apple trees (Malus spp.) in your yard. It is about more than just fruit. Apple trees are beautiful bloomers in their own right. The fruit is a bonus. If you do not care about growing edible fruit, then crabapples will serve your purposes better. A type with rosy-red flowers that reaches a height of 20 to 25 feet is Malus x ‘Centzam’ or Centurion, which can be grown in zones 4 to 8.

Dogwood Trees

You will likely want more than just flowering landscape trees that provide a floral extravaganza in spring. Fortunately, sometimes you get a two-for-one deal (or better) in landscaping. In this case, that means versatile specimens that earn their keep during more than just one of the four seasons. Dogwood trees (Cornus florida and Cornus kousa) offer such a deal: blooms for spring, colorful foliage for fall, berries to attract wild birds in winter, and an interesting branching pattern year-round.

Herriman, Utah

About Herriman, Utah

Herriman is a city in southwestern Salt Lake County, Utah. The population was 55,144 as of the 2020 census. Although Herriman was a town in 2000, it has since been classified as a fourth-class city by state law. The city has experienced rapid growth since incorporation in 1999, as its population was just 1,523 at the 2000 census. It grew from being the 111th-largest incorporated place in Utah in 2000 to the 14th-largest in 2020.

Neighborhoods in Herriman, Utah

Herriman Towne Center, Rosecrest, Sunstone Village, Walmart Neighborhood Market, Daybreak, Heritage Place Park, Herriman City Community Garden, Herriman, Indian Pony Park, The Cove at Herriman Springs, W & M Butterfield Park, Ivory Homes - Juniper Estates, Sunset Pointe by Richmond American Homes, Herriman Towne Center, Perry Homes - Hidden Oaks, Solameer Townhomes, Toll Brothers at Denali Estates, Los Tapatios Taco Grill, Copper Creek Park, Umbria Estates Park

Things To Do in Herriman, Utah

Bus Stops in Herriman, Utah to Truco Services, Inc.

Bus Stop in Crown Rose Dr @ 14029 S Herriman, Utah to Truco Services, Inc.

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Map of Herriman, Utah

Driving Directions in Herriman, Utah to Truco Services, Inc.

Driving Directions from Allmighty Tree Service to 4640 Commerce Dr, Murray, UT 84107, USA

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Driving Directions from Hidden Oak Tree Care to 4640 Commerce Dr, Murray, UT 84107, USA

Driving Directions from Arbor Works to 4640 Commerce Dr, Murray, UT 84107, USA

Driving Directions from MP Lawn Care and lighting LLC to 4640 Commerce Dr, Murray, UT 84107, USA

Reviews for Truco Services, Inc. Herriman, Utah

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Marissa Burton

starstarstarstarstar (5)

TruCo is a great company to work with for your commercial landscaping and snow removal needs! Rob is excellent to work with. He is very timely in providing quotes and has a lot of great feedback and suggestions to provide on what will look great, fit within your budget, and is knowledgeable on plants that will thrive with Utah's ever changing weather conditions. I have been impressed with TruCo's landscape maintenance as well as landscape projects which have had a quick turnaround time. I would highly recommend using TruCo!

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Yvonne Olson

starstarstarstarstar (5)

I experienced excellent all around service from landscape improvement design, scheduling and professional installation completed within the timeline we discussed. Rob, the manager does an excellent job of communicating, overseeing the install crew and making sure his customers are 100% satisfied with the job. Highly recommend TruCo for all landscaping needs.

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Raymond Ferraro

starstarstarstarstar (5)

Michael the tree guy is so smart.  He knows all about tree removal, cutting and tree trimming services.  Truco did amazing work for me.  We had 16 very old and mature trees removed. The Truco team showed up on time ready to get the job done.  They did amazing with clean up truly respect your property and your life.  Communication was really good.  They needed to move some things to get the stump grinder to our yard they put things back with no issues.  Extremely professional and truly know what they're doing.  If anyone is looking for professional tree removal or tree service you really should call Jason or Michael at Truco.

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Heather Whiting

starstarstarstarstar (5)

We hired TruCo to do a new install of sprinklers, sod, spigot, and bury downspouts. We even have a wifi transmitter for our control box we can access from an app on our phones! We absolutely love the professionalism and quality of their work!! Our sales rep Pete was the best to work with, we highly recommend him to anyone in the market for landscaping. It was awesome seeing the finished results and we're incredibly excited to enjoy our new space!

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Jan Merideth

starstarstarstarstar (5)

TruCo installed all of our plants, trees and shrubs, drip lines, and boulders. Then they installed our amazing beautiful firepit. We loved the results and they guarantee all plants and trees up to a year. They were great and easy to work with. They listened to our needs and wants and met them 100%. Our HOA sent us a letter telling us they appreciate all the work and the way our yard looks and let us know we added value to the property. Win/Win

Fiddle Leaf Fig Care

Fiddle Leaf Fig Care

Fiddle Leaf Fig Care

Native to the rainforests of western and central Africa, the Fiddle Leaf Fig Tree (Ficus lyrata) is a stunning plant with huge green leaves and an even larger following of houseplant fans. Despite its popularity, it’s certainly not the easiest houseplant to look after, but its visual impact in a space is unmatched when given proper conditions and care.
The Fiddle Leaf Fig appreciates a warm, humid environment, a fair amount of water and plenty of light. Choose a location away from air vents and drafts where the tree will receive plenty of bright ambient light. Directly in front of, or close by a southern or western facing window is ideal, and eastern exposure can also work as long as the plant is directly in the window and the space feels very bright. A few hours of direct sun is also beneficial. If placed in a full-sun location (where the plant will receive over 6 hours of direct light daily), a humid environment will keep your Fiddle Leaf looking its best. We do not recommend this plant for windows with northern exposure. They will not thrive in low-light locations.

If you’re unsure about your lighting conditions, placing the tree directly next to the window is the safest bet. We also have a guide for how to measure light in your space.

Fiddle Leaf Fig Trees are particularly sensitive to environmental changes. They will likely take a little time to adjust to their new home. Be sure to follow the care instructions, and don’t panic if yours loses a few leaves. If leaf discoloration or leaf loss persists, please reach out and we will help troubleshoot!

Lastly, if you are using a container made from organic materials to pot your Fiddle Leaf in, we highly recommend using a waterproof saucer underneath to protect your floors, as humidity may accumulate beneath the pot due to the volume of water this plant requires.

Fiddle Leaf Fig Leaf

The common name for this plant, Fiddle Leaf Fig, comes from the fact that the leaves are the size and shape of a fiddle.

Routine Maintenance

Always be sure to assess your plant’s watering needs upon receiving it. Before giving your plant a drink, it is best to check the moisture level in the soil first to ensure it isn’t moist right beneath the surface. Also, consider aerating the soil of your plant before the initial watering. Many growers compact the soil to avoid shifting during transit, so aerating can aid in drainage, help the soil breathe and allow moisture to be released.

The Fiddle Leaf Fig likes its soil to be kept consistently, evenly moist with a brief drying out period between watering as it comes from an area of the world that gets very dry between rain storms. Water it thoroughly whenever the top 2” of soil have dried. Allowing the soil to dry deep to the lower root system will lead to leaf loss, so be sure to check in with the soil regularly until you develop a routine with your plant. In contrast, too much moisture in the soil can lead to root rot and also cause leaves to drop.
The best way we have found to obtain an accurate moisture reading throughout the soil is with a soil probe, which allows you to check your plant’s moisture level at the root level and can also be used to aerate the soil if ever overwatered. Our Monitor Brass Soil Probe is an elegant option.

We highly recommend potting your Fiddle Leaf, as it is a challenging plant to keep alive long term in its nursery pot — however make sure to pot it in a permanent planter with plenty of soil mass and crucially, drainage. If your Fiddle Leaf Fig is planted in a container without a drainage hole, you must be very careful not to overwater. In this scenario we suggest allowing your Fiddle Leaf Fig to dry out slightly more between waterings and use a soil probe to see how damp the soil is at the root level before watering. These plants do particularly well in our self watering containers!

Frequently Asked Questions

Does my Ficus have a bacterial infection or root rot?

Probably not. Although the internet is ablaze with this diagnosis, we’ve found this affliction to be exceedingly rare in the thousands of Ficuses we’ve cared for through our sister company, Greenery NYC. It’s probably another problem such as low light or overwatering. However, we have a guide on how to identify fungal and bacterial leaf spotting if you’re interested in learning more.

Help! My Fiddle Leaf Fig dropped a leaf!

Ficus trees are sensitive to environmental change and transplanting. The dry, cold air is a big shift from the warm humidity of the greenhouse, and Ficus will temporarily go into shock and drop leaves. Don’t worry, this is a temporary state. It will take a couple of weeks for your tree to normalize and it might drop a couple of leaves in the process. However, if the leaves continue to drop it could be a sign of improper light or water.

My Fiddle Leaf Fig has brown spots and the leaves are dropping. What do I do?

The number one mistake most people make in taking care of their plants is overwatering. Fiddle Leaf Fig Trees prefer to dry out slightly between watering, and while they take a good deal of water to keep healthy, soggy soil will drown the plant. If your leaves start to brown and fall and the soil is moist, let the plant dry out until the soil becomes completely dry.

The second biggest mistake people make is not enough light. Fiddle Leafs need a lot of light to thrive and will start shedding their leaves if they’re not absorbing enough energy. If you’re unsure about where to put your plant, it’s best to place it by a window. For more information visit our lighting guide.

Under watering can also be a big killer of the fiddle leaf fig. When under watered, the rim of the leaves will start to brown and curl in, which will eventually spread throughout the leaf. Under watered leaves that have fallen will normally be either fully brown or mostly brown, and dry to the touch.

Brown fiddle leaf fig (ficus lyrata) leaf, due to over watering.Brown holes on a fiddle leaf fig leaf (Ficus lyrata) due to lack of light. LEFT: An example of overwatering on a dropped leaf. Note the browning spreading through the leaf’s veins from the central node (or midrib), a telltale sign that the plant has received excessive water. RIGHT: Brown spotting or holes in the leaves typically signal that the plant isn’t receiving enough light. This is common on the lower leaves of the tree, which can become shaded out over time.

How do I tell when my Fiddle Leaf Fig Tree needs water?

Once you’ve established that the top few inches of soil have dried, the easiest way to tell if your Fiddle Leaf needs water is to look at the leaves. If the leaves are not rigid and upright, and they start to look floppy, they’re telling you they need water. Be sure to check in regularly with your tree to ensure you don’t underwater until you establish a routine.

Underwatered Fiddle Leaf Fig / Ficus Lyrata before and afterAn underwatered Fiddle Leaf Fig tree on the left, and the same tree less than 24 hours later.

How much light is too much light for the Fiddle Leaf Fig?

Fiddle leaf fig sunburn.Sunburn on a Fiddle Leaf Fig’s leaves.

Fiddle Leaf Figs will generally do fine if placed right in front of a window in NYC. However, they can’t take extended periods of full sun (being placed outside on a sunny day). In extremely bright apartments (i.e. floor to ceiling windows) they may get sunburned, and in this instance your safest bet is putting them in front of the window with a sheer curtain. Do not block the light with a partial shade like a solar shade as they will block out the full spectrum of the sun’s radiation.

Can I put my Fiddle Leaf Fig Tree next to the AC / heater?

Fiddle Leaf Fig Trees are tropical plants that appreciate a humid environment. If conditions are too dry they will drop their leaves. While Fiddle Leafs will thrive in an air conditioned apartment, always avoid putting them in the direct line of fire for either AC or heating units. If their leaves are wagging from the air, it’s best to find another spot.

How often should I fertilize my Fiddle Leaf Fig?

In general, house plants will thrive when they are fertilized spring through fall. Fertilize once a month with an organic houseplant fertilizer, following the package instructions for dilution and administration. Greenery NYC uses an organic potting mix with a slow release fertilizer in the soil, so your plant will not need fertilizer within the first 6 months of receiving it.

How often does my Fiddle Leaf Fig need to be repotted?

For larger floor plants, we suggest repotting every 18-24 months. Typically you want to choose a potting vessel 2”- 4” larger in diameter to allow for growth. Don’t choose a pot much larger than the previous as this could drown the plants roots. If you prefer to maintain the current size of your plant, repot into the same vessel, providing new soil and trimming away some roots and foliage. Spring or summer is the ideal time to repot as the plant is at its strongest.

Millcreek, Utah

About Millcreek, Utah

Millcreek is a city in Salt Lake County, Utah, United States, and is part of the Salt Lake City Metropolitan Statistical Area. The population as of the 2020 Census was 63,380. Prior to its incorporation on December 28, 2016, Millcreek was a census-designated place (CDP) and township.

Neighborhoods in Millcreek, Utah

Winder Meadows, Willes, Holladay Hills, Canyon Rim, La Joya Heights, Millcreek, Wendell Circle, Mount Olympus, Millcreek Canyon, Sydnee Court, Big Cottonwood Regional Park - Big Cottonwood Area, Canyon Rim Park, Millcreek Common, Scott Avenue Park, Calla Homes, Wells, Mill Creek Canyon, Unified Police Department (Millcreek Precinct), Sunnyvale Park, Millcreek City Hall

Things To Do in Millcreek, Utah

Bus Stops in Millcreek, Utah to Truco Services, Inc.

Bus Stop in 3900 S @ 1200 E Millcreek, Utah to Truco Services, Inc.

Bus Stop in 3300 S @ 401 E Millcreek, Utah to Truco Services, Inc.

Bus Stop in 500 E / Millcreek Way (NB) Millcreek, Utah to Truco Services, Inc.

Bus Stop in 700 E @ 3229 S Millcreek, Utah to Truco Services, Inc.

Bus Stop in 3300 S @ 1001 E Millcreek, Utah to Truco Services, Inc.

Bus Stop in 3900 S @ 1567 E Millcreek, Utah to Truco Services, Inc.

Bus Stop in 3300 S @ 490 E Millcreek, Utah to Truco Services, Inc.

Bus Stop in 3900 S @ 110 E Millcreek, Utah to Truco Services, Inc.

Bus Stop in 500 E / 4200 S (NB) Millcreek, Utah to Truco Services, Inc.

Bus Stop in 1300 E @ 3643 S Millcreek, Utah to Truco Services, Inc.

Bus Stop in 3900 S @ 401 E Millcreek, Utah to Truco Services, Inc.

Bus Stop in Meadowbrook Station (Bay A) Millcreek, Utah to Truco Services, Inc.

Map of Millcreek, Utah

Driving Directions in Millcreek, Utah to Truco Services, Inc.

Driving Directions from Woodruff Tree Trimming and Removal to 4640 Commerce Dr, Murray, UT 84107, USA

Driving Directions from Tree Service Millcreek to 4640 Commerce Dr, Murray, UT 84107, USA

Driving Directions from Diamond Tree Experts to 4640 Commerce Dr, Murray, UT 84107, USA

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Driving Directions from Heritage Tree Experts to 4640 Commerce Dr, Murray, UT 84107, USA

Driving Directions from K & C TREE SERVICE EXPERTS to 4640 Commerce Dr, Murray, UT 84107, USA

Driving Directions from Doug's Tree Services to 4640 Commerce Dr, Murray, UT 84107, USA

Driving Directions from Reliable Tree Care to 4640 Commerce Dr, Murray, UT 84107, USA

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Reviews for Truco Services, Inc. Millcreek, Utah

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Marissa Burton

starstarstarstarstar (5)

TruCo is a great company to work with for your commercial landscaping and snow removal needs! Rob is excellent to work with. He is very timely in providing quotes and has a lot of great feedback and suggestions to provide on what will look great, fit within your budget, and is knowledgeable on plants that will thrive with Utah's ever changing weather conditions. I have been impressed with TruCo's landscape maintenance as well as landscape projects which have had a quick turnaround time. I would highly recommend using TruCo!

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Yvonne Olson

starstarstarstarstar (5)

I experienced excellent all around service from landscape improvement design, scheduling and professional installation completed within the timeline we discussed. Rob, the manager does an excellent job of communicating, overseeing the install crew and making sure his customers are 100% satisfied with the job. Highly recommend TruCo for all landscaping needs.

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Raymond Ferraro

starstarstarstarstar (5)

Michael the tree guy is so smart.  He knows all about tree removal, cutting and tree trimming services.  Truco did amazing work for me.  We had 16 very old and mature trees removed. The Truco team showed up on time ready to get the job done.  They did amazing with clean up truly respect your property and your life.  Communication was really good.  They needed to move some things to get the stump grinder to our yard they put things back with no issues.  Extremely professional and truly know what they're doing.  If anyone is looking for professional tree removal or tree service you really should call Jason or Michael at Truco.

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Heather Whiting

starstarstarstarstar (5)

We hired TruCo to do a new install of sprinklers, sod, spigot, and bury downspouts. We even have a wifi transmitter for our control box we can access from an app on our phones! We absolutely love the professionalism and quality of their work!! Our sales rep Pete was the best to work with, we highly recommend him to anyone in the market for landscaping. It was awesome seeing the finished results and we're incredibly excited to enjoy our new space!

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Jan Merideth

starstarstarstarstar (5)

TruCo installed all of our plants, trees and shrubs, drip lines, and boulders. Then they installed our amazing beautiful firepit. We loved the results and they guarantee all plants and trees up to a year. They were great and easy to work with. They listened to our needs and wants and met them 100%. Our HOA sent us a letter telling us they appreciate all the work and the way our yard looks and let us know we added value to the property. Win/Win