Tree Stumps

Tree Stumps

How to get rid of tree stumps is one of the most frequently asked question in the industry. Once you have had a tree removed you are left with a typically unsightly reminder, the stump. Tree stumps are an eyesore, a tripping hazard, and they can attract unwanted pests like termites or even fungi and bacteria. If left to simply decay and rot away on its own, without any sort of treatment, a stump can take up to ten years to disappear. When it comes to rotting a tree stump in Utah, the rate of decay depends on many different factors such as species of tree, size of the tree, and the climate and weather conditions.

As your leading Utah arborist, we do stump grinding in the Utah and surrounding area, although due to the demand we do have to limit our grinding services and can only offer it to current tree service clients and not as a standalone service.

To remove a tree stump you can try to tackle the job yourself, although stump grinders are quite heavy and can be difficult to use at times. So how do you get rid of a tree stump then? What is the best way? Well, the answer is in the original suggestion of letting it rot away, but doing so quickly.

How To Get Rid Of A Tree Stump Fast?

The fastest way to remove a tree stump, with and without using a grinder, is the chemical method. By applying chemicals to holes drilled into the stump, you speed up the natural decay process and the remaining tree fibers and roots will break down much more quickly. It is considered one of the best ways to remove a tree stump from your yard. Here is how to use this method by following these steps.

DIY Steps To Rotting A Tree Stump From A Leading Arborist:
Begin on a dry day or after a number of dry days if possible. This way the tree stump will be looking for liquid and nutrients and will soak up the chemicals faster.

If you are capable, use a chainsaw to cut the remaining part of the tree as close to the ground as possible. By doing this the chemicals will have less material to eat through. Chainsaws can be dangerous though, so make sure you always use caution, wear steel-toed boots and eye protection.

Once the tree stump is as close to the ground as you can comfortably get it to go, drill a number of holes into the top of the stump and along the sides in a downward direction. The bigger the drill bit the better, and each of the holes should be a few inches deep.
After drilling the holes into the stump in different places, you will apply the chemicals that will break down the remaining wood. Utah does have strict legal restrictions about the kind of chemicals you can purchase for this sort of project. Ideally, you would want a commercial fertilizer that is high in nitrogen, since it will give you the fastest results, but cow manure is also effective. Another more natural alternative is Epsom salt. It is also a cost-effective solution as a 19lbs page starts at $10. It has similar dissolving properties to nitrogen but is a more organic approach. When you have chosen the chemical you will use, pack the holes with as much of it as you can.

Then soak the ground around the stump and wet the top and sides of the stump. After the stump is wet, cover it with a plastic tarp to trap the moisture around the stump. Moisture is ultimately what will help the chemicals break down the wood particles faster.
The next step is to apply mulch over the top of the plastic tarp. Organic mulch, like hay or tree bark, is best for this task as it will retain more moisture and help to keep the tarp in place.

You can use rocks and stones to weigh down the tarp further to help keep it in place, although this step is considered optional.
Once you have completed all of these steps, you are officially rotting a tree stump. This process is a speeding up of nature, and we all know that nature can take its time, so you should expect that it will take some time to work. How can you speed up the stump rot process even more? You can repeat the rotting steps periodically if you notice the mulch has grown dry.

How Much Does It Cost To Remove A Stump?

The overall cost for a stump removal is largely dependent on the method you choose to use. If you chose to do it yourself, it would be the cost of materials needed. Whereas, if you live in the nearby Utah area, with easy access to the stump, the average cost is about $6 per inch in diameter with $150-$200 minimum charge.

Looking To Remove a Tree Stump Quickly?

Ultimately, the quickest way to remove your tree stump and return your yard to a flat surface is the method of stump grinding. Although our grinding services are limited, if you are in need of a tree removal service in the Utah, area, or if you are looking to get some stumps removed don’t hesitate to contact the tree experts.

If you’re not a current or past tree client and have a stump you’d like removed, read more about stump rot and how to safely remove the tree stump yourself.

When your stump is ground, you can expect that there will be no masses of the stump left underground. The stump grindings, which are the wood shavings from the stump mixed with dirt, are left behind. You can use these grindings as mulch around your yard. Please remove the grindings prior to replanting any plants or trees in that area.

Stump Grinding FAQs

What is the average cost for stump grinding?

If you live in the nearby Utah Metro area with easy access to the stump, stump grinding cost averages about $6 per inch in diameter with a $150-$200 minimum. Anything that makes the stump harder to access and remove such as a fence or retaining wall or anything breakable such as a flagstone patio would increase the price from there. Also removing the stump grindings is almost always an additional charge.

Is It better to grind a stump or remove it?

There are many ways how to get rid of tree stumps, and there are advantages and disadvantages for either removing a stump or grinding it. For removing a stump the advantage is there is no stump grinding left behind. The disadvantages are that removing all but the smallest stumps usually requires large equipment such as a loader or excavator. In addition, it is usually pretty hard to find a place to dispose of them. For grinding a stump the advantages are that it can be done to almost any stump in any location or a reasonable fee and the disadvantages are that the grinding as usually left behind for the property owner to deal with.

Can you grind down a tree stump with a chainsaw?

There are stump grinders that attach to a chainsaws powerhead, but grinding a stump with a regular chainsaw would be exceptionally difficult as the chain would dull every time it hit even a small amount of dirt. It also sounds very dangerous.

Can I use ground up tree stump as mulch?

Yes, a ground-up tree stump makes an excellent mulch product.

How much does it cost to rent a stump grinder from Home Depot?

In the Utah Metro area $299 per day and $209 for 4 hours as of 3/20/19 to rent a grinder for stump removal in Utah, OR.

Does stump grinding kill roots?

No, in fact, the roots are sometimes spurred to grow more from the shock of having the tree removed and stump ground out.

Does tree removal include the stump?

The answer is almost always no. The removal of the stump in the ground is for an additional fee. Tree removal bids are very specific so any extra services such as stump grinding, wood removal, or tree removal permits are not included unless expressly stated.

Will tree stumps attract termites?

Yes, but not all termites will damage your home. It will take an exterminator to determine which kind you have should your stump become infested.

Can a tree grow back from a stump?

Depending on the type of tree they can grow back but this would not be a tree that you would want to keep as its structure would be compromised and thus it would be likely to fail and damage your property.

Contact the tree experts about stump removal in Utah

If you live in the Utah area and are looking to have a tree removed and are also interested in stump removal and grinding contact our nearby team of Utah stump grinding service professionals.

Tree Removal Price Utah

Tree Removal Price Utah

WHAT IS TREE REMOVAL?

When providing a proposal for a tree removal, an arborists also evaluate the site for tree REMOVAL. While having the tree ground is not always necessary, many people prefer to deal with the tree at the same time as having the tree removed. Tree removal allows the property owner to use the area where the tree once stood for laying sod or planting a flower bed. The tree grinder also produces mulch that has many uses around the yard. Here are answers to some common questions we get about tree removal.

HOW DEEP CAN THE TREE GRINDER GO?

They generally grind four to six inches below grade (ground level). If deeper removal is needed, it can be requested, although the price of tree removal may increase. The depth to which a tree can be ground is subject to some limitations, however. The tree-removal blade has a diameter of about 10 inches, and can only be maneuvered up and down within a specific range.

A tree that grew in shallow soil, such as over the limestone bedrock prevalent in the Price area, may not have six inches of grindable depth.

Other material near or around the tree may limit how deep the grinder can go. While the tree grinder is powerful, it is only designed to handle plant material, wood, and dirt. Take note of:

Fencing, concrete, brick, or rock around a tree (such as a tree ring)
Nearby trees that may have roots under the tree
Swimming pools, walkways, and patios that may prevent the grinder from reaching all of the root material
Lawn irrigation, sprinkler systems, tree lighting wiring, and buried hoses

We generally do not grind deep enough to risk interfering with properly-installed utility lines or buried cables, but unforeseen obstacles can be encountered that necessitate a shallower grind.

What exactly lies beneath the roots of a tree or the surrounding soil may be a mystery, even to the homeowner. While we are very careful when removal a tree, we will not take responsible for damage to irrigation lines or other items located below ground that we are not aware of. It is important to inform your arborist of any sprinkler systems or other objects that might be in the area to be ground before the work begins.

WHAT IS LEFT AFTER A TREE IS GROUND?

As the blade grinds the tree and surface roots, it produces a mulch made up of tree material and dirt. The mulch produced by tree removal can take up a much greater volume than the original tree. (It can be helpful to think of the difference between a block of cheese and that same cheese after it is grated.)

Mulch from tree removal is valuable organic material that decomposes more quickly than many other kinds of mulch, as there are generally smaller wood particles present, and more soil to help it break down. It is our standard practice to push the mulch back into the area that has been ground (“backfilling”). Even so, there is usually a large pile of mulch left above ground, often much more than the tree owner expected. Because of its composition, the mulch does settle fairly quickly, but many people prefer to use the mulch around their yards, rather than leaving it where the tree once was.

Tree grinder mulch can be used for composting or applied in flower beds. (Depending on exact composition of the mulch, it may not perform in the same way as typical hardwood mulch, and may need to be replaced sooner.) After some time, when the mulch has settled, it can be packed into the ground-out area, making the area ready to be prepped for laying sod or for planting a flower bed or other small plants. If requested, we can provide mulch bagging and/or bagged mulch haul-off as an additional service after tree removal, but our standard practice is to leave all grinder mulch on-site.

WILL THE TREE COME BACK AFTER A TREE IS GROUND?

Even with tree removal, some species of tree can still send up shoots and new growth from the roots left below ground. Crape myrtles, chinaberry trees, hackberries, and Bradford pears are some common species in the area that can be very persistent in growing back. The sprouts that return after tree removal can be trimmed or mown down and will eventually stop coming back, as the remaining roots use up their energy reserves. Commercially-available woody stem killer can be used to accelerate the dieback of the roots. White vinegar can also be used as an organic alternative to commercial root killer.

CAN I REPLANT AFTER A TREE IS GROUND?

We are often contacted about removing a tree that the owner would like to replace. We do not recommend trying to re-plant trees in the same area where a tree was removed and the tree ground. Even with a deep grind, an extensive root system remains underground. The old root system can interfere with the new tree’s attempts to become established. Furthermore, if the old tree had a disease, that disease may still be present in the remaining root tissue, and can be transmitted to the new tree. When replanting is desired, we can discuss finding a location that is far enough from the removed tree to lessen the likelihood of interference from the old root system. If homeowners’ association or municipal restrictions require a tree to be replaced in a certain location, excavation or hand digging may be the only options.

CAN EVERY TREE BE GROUND?

In the case of a tree becoming uprooted (because of storm damage or root rot, for example), the tree cannot be dealt with as easily. If there is a large amount of root material above ground, the tree grinder may be physically unable to reach it. Depending on the type of tree and how it grew, it may pull up a great deal of dirt, turf grass, and other underground material when it falls. What is left after removal an uprooted tree may be more dirt than tree matter, and may not be suitable for use as mulch.

Weather is also a factor that can determine how and when tree removal can be performed. A long period of rain can cause the soil to become waterlogged. Operating a tree grinder in heavy, wet soil can not only make a bigger mess than usual, but can damage the surrounding area due to the weight of the machine. It may be necessary to wait until the area dries out before attempting even a “standard” tree grind.

If a customer has a special circumstance, like an uprooted tree, or there are multiple trees in one area to be ground, we always send an arborist to assess the situation before providing a quote or scheduling the tree grinder.

HOW MUCH DOES TREE REMOVAL COST?

The cost of tree removal is dependent upon three main factors: the size of the tree, the location of the tree, and how deep the grinder needs to go. While we generally provide a tree removal price when we give a quote for tree removal, we are also happy to evaluate any other trees you may want to have ground.

HOW DO I MEASURE A TREE?

The base cost for tree removal is determined by the diameter of the tree in inches, including any above-ground roots. This measurement can be taken before or after a tree is removed. To get the right measurement, it is important to go “from dirt to dirt.” This means measuring from the tree edge or root point (where it touches the dirt) farthest from the trunk to the opposite edge or root point. It is also important to measure from different directions and to take an average measurement, as this most accurately reflects the area to be ground. The “dirt-to-dirt” measurement can be quite a bit larger than the diameter of the tree trunk, and we do see situations where the tree removal is more costly than removing the above-ground tree.

This is a 75-inch tree, measured “dirt to dirt” at the yellow line. Measuring on the trunk is inaccurate: if this tree were measured at the red line, the result would only be 37 inches, which is not the actual area to be ground. Even after a tree is cut down, properly measuring a tree can be tricky when there is a root flare and surrounding vegetation.

CAN THE TREE GRINDER REACH MY TREE?

Our standard tree grinder is a machine that is seven feet long and three feet wide. At the front is a rounded blade (similar to the tip of a chainsaw) that chips away wood as it moves across the tree. The tree grinder is designed to fit through standard gates, but some older or narrow gates may not be able to accommodate it. The weight of the machine may also prevent it from reaching certain areas without damaging walkways or ground cover. While the removal blade has some maneuverability, clearance of at least seven feet on one side of the tree is required to allow the grinder to access the area to be ground. In smaller areas with less clearance, it is possible to use our smaller tree grinder, but this can increase the time and cost of the procedure.

CAN I JUST LEAVE THE TREE?

It is not necessary to grind or otherwise remove a tree after a tree is taken down. We have customers who request a tree not be cut all the way to ground level, and use the remaining tree as a plant stand, table base, or just a yard feature. Even if the tree is cut close to the ground, it can last several years. Preservative coatings can also be applied to prolong the life of a standing tree.

Some homeowners prefer to let a tree decompose naturally over time. Old trees can become habitats for fungi, insects, and other creatures. As the tree breaks down, it can become rich organic material that can be added to compost or used in planting. If a tree is left unground, however, it can continue to send out new growth for years after the tree has been removed. Drilling holes in the tree and filling with Epsom salt or using commercial tree killer can accelerate tree dieback, but those chemicals can be toxic to surrounding plant life. Treating the tree with chemicals can also make the area hazardous to people and pets.

Tree Removal Cost

Tree Removal Cost

It is human nature to search for the cheapest time of year for tree removal, but it’s not always possible.

Nationally, the average price for removing a tree is about $850, but that can change dramatically and painfully for your budget depending on the size of the tree, its location, and if you want the stump and roots removed with it.

However, you can, in general, use one trick for cheap tree removal, which can reduce the price by about half.

In the summer months, trees are in full bloom, branches are heavy with fruits, flowers, and leaves are bursting with green, they’re getting that much sunlight.

It is during these months that arborists and tree services are at their busiest, scaling up and down tall trees, trimming, pruning, and generally tending to the trees’ well being.

Now would not be a good time to ask how much does tree removal cost. However, free tree removal services may be available, such as free tree removal for seniors or free tree removal in exchange for wood.

Not only would you have to join the list of clients they already have booked, but the price will probably convince you that that tree teetering precariously over your house will hang in there for just a little bit longer.

It will be better to wait until the sun has shifted its attention to another part of the country and the weather has turned decidedly chillier before you try to lower your tree removal cost by removing trees in winter.

The cheapest time of year for tree removal has to be the winter months of February and March, classed as the dormant period for trees when the leaves are gone, the branches are bare, and the ground is frozen.

This time of year is regarded as ideal for removing a tree, and it is also beneficial for the environment at the same time. With the surrounding ground being frozen, there will be less upheaval to the neighboring flora when the stump and roots are being dug up.

But best of all, most of the tree companies are low on work and are offering discounts to get work in to keep them busy through these few slow months.

So, if that teetering tree hasn’t teetered all the way over, now would be a good time to ask what a good price for tree removal is.

How Much To Get Trees Cut Down: How Much Do Arborists Charge?

It is important to recognize that arborists are qualified in their area of expertise which is arboriculture. They have undergone lengthy exams, gained certifications over years of study, and know trees from the roots to the crown.

A qualified arborist will charge anywhere from $230 up to $2,000 for a tree removal service depending on the size, location, and complexity.

That is not to say that a local tree company will deliver an inferior service and there will be several in your area that will have an online presence to verify if is it always cheaper to remove a tree in winter and to get competitive quotes.

The Best Time of Year To Hire Tree Service: How Much Does It Cost To Have a Tree Trimmed?

Even though it is not as severe an undertaking as cutting down an entire tree, trimming requires the expertise of a specialist so it is done correctly.

For instance, some tree companies may advise “topping,” or removing the top branches from your trees, expanding the service that you had initially called them in for, actually causing harm rather than help.

An unnecessary procedure like this may cause the tree to become stressed, prone to other illnesses, and possibly other major health problems. Certain species can also be more expensive.

By using a certified arborist at the cheapest time of year for tree removal, any undetected diseases lurking among the leaves could be detected while the tree is being examined, and if any problems are discovered they can be treated before it becomes fatal.

A company Inexperienced and untrained in disease detection could easily overlook any growing spores or fungi, and just remove the few dead branches without getting to the root of the problem.

A tree removal cost calculator would reveal the best time of year to hire their services, which is normally the slow winter season, and would also require information such as:

Type of Tree
Height of the tree
Width of the tree
Location of the property
Trim or pruning required
Root removal
Trunk and stump removal
Number of trees
Start date
Financing required

There are a few signs that no matter how long a tree has been in your yard that is time for it to be uprooted and hauled away.
Storm damage, pests, or a disease that has run rampant throughout the tree, weakening the trunk and roots, can be a clear sign that it’s time to call in the professionals.

The trick is knowing how to negotiate tree removal.

A tree specialist can determine if a tree is salvageable by determining if removal is the only option if there is a danger to property or persons if it falls over, or just if the tree is dying.

Several clear signs that a tree is perishing are dead branches, the trunk becoming hollow and weak, or the bark and leaves appearing lifeless.

Occasionally, a simple tree root problem can end up being the reason for its removal.

Certain trees have roots that spread far and wide in the search for water and nutrients, and they let nothing stand in their way.

In fact, so strong are some roots that they have broken through asphalt, and paving stones, overbalanced nearby trees, and even threatened the foundations of houses.

In these scenarios, action needs to be taken regardless of whether it is the cheapest time of year for tree removal or if you have to pay the going rate to prevent any potentially expensive property repairs.

There is a feasible method to get a 50% discount, however. Let’s have a look at how that could be possible.

How Can I Save on Tree Removal if I Need It Done in the Busy Season and Not in the Cheapest Time of Year for Tree Removal

When the quote is received from a landscaping company it can sometimes be a shock to the system, even after the arborist has explained in detail that the price is what it is due to the awkward location of the tree that makes extracting it difficult.

The phrase back burner immediately springs to mind along with waiting for the cheapest time of year for tree removal.

But because you have procrastinated long enough already, you decide that now is the time to learn how to negotiate tree removal prices so the quote is at least within arms reach of your budget.

Savings can be made by clearing away any obstructions near the trunk that will restrict the contractor or any machinery from getting close to the tree to be removed. But a trick that can shave off nearly 50% of the quote is where the trunk is cut from the stump.

It is well known that stump removal is the labor-intensive segment of tree removal that not many tree companies relish undertaking.

Why? Because it takes time away from more lucrative jobs that are a lot easier and quicker to do. You can learn how to kill a tree stump yourself and save funds.

Regardless of whether it is the cheapest time of year for tree removal, negotiating with them to cut the trunk free just above ground level will save a bundle. Then since the majority of the hard work has been done, the remainder of the tree stump can be removed by hiring a grinder for a couple of hours to chop it down into more manageable chunks.

Within a few hours, the stump can be cut it free, all the roots removed, and the hole filled in.

How Much To Cut Down a 50-Foot Pine Tree?

Even if you wait for the cheapest time of the year for tree removal, the size of your tree is still going to dictate how much it is going to cost to uproot it and haul it away. Pricing can be based on certain size categories, and the bigger the tree the pricier it is.

These prices are not cast in stone and can also vary between states, as well as how easy it is to fully extract the tree due to access or overhead obstructions. Even the girth of the trunk can influence the final price and many online calculators will request this information.

Free Tree Removal and Free Tree Removal in Exchange for Wood

You may be surprised to learn that it is possible to get your tree cut down and removed from your property for free, irrespective of if it is the cheapest time of year for tree removal.

In some localities, for example, there are programs that offer free tree removal for seniors to avoid potential risks brought on by decaying, dead, or dying trees, and also households with lower incomes can get assistance.

Holladay, Utah

About Holladay, Utah

Holladay is a city in central Salt Lake County, Utah, United States. It is part of the Salt Lake City, Utah Metropolitan Statistical Area and abuts the Wasatch National Forest. The population was 31,965 at the 2020 census, a significant increase from 14,561 in 2000 when the first area incorporated from Salt Lake County. The city was incorporated on November 29, 1999, as Holladay-Cottonwood, and the name was shortened to Holladay on December 14 of that year. It was reported in the 1990 census as the Holladay-Cottonwood CDP.

Bus Stops in Holladay, Utah to Truco Services, Inc.

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Map of Holladay, Utah

Driving Directions in Holladay, Utah to Truco Services, Inc.

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Reviews for Truco Services, Inc. Holladay, Utah

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Marissa Burton

starstarstarstarstar (5)

TruCo is a great company to work with for your commercial landscaping and snow removal needs! Rob is excellent to work with. He is very timely in providing quotes and has a lot of great feedback and suggestions to provide on what will look great, fit within your budget, and is knowledgeable on plants that will thrive with Utah's ever changing weather conditions. I have been impressed with TruCo's landscape maintenance as well as landscape projects which have had a quick turnaround time. I would highly recommend using TruCo!

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Yvonne Olson

starstarstarstarstar (5)

I experienced excellent all around service from landscape improvement design, scheduling and professional installation completed within the timeline we discussed. Rob, the manager does an excellent job of communicating, overseeing the install crew and making sure his customers are 100% satisfied with the job. Highly recommend TruCo for all landscaping needs.

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Heather Whiting

starstarstarstarstar (5)

We hired TruCo to do a new install of sprinklers, sod, spigot, and bury downspouts. We even have a wifi transmitter for our control box we can access from an app on our phones! We absolutely love the professionalism and quality of their work!! Our sales rep Pete was the best to work with, we highly recommend him to anyone in the market for landscaping. It was awesome seeing the finished results and we're incredibly excited to enjoy our new space!

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Jan Merideth

starstarstarstarstar (5)

TruCo installed all of our plants, trees and shrubs, drip lines, and boulders. Then they installed our amazing beautiful firepit. We loved the results and they guarantee all plants and trees up to a year. They were great and easy to work with. They listened to our needs and wants and met them 100%. Our HOA sent us a letter telling us they appreciate all the work and the way our yard looks and let us know we added value to the property. Win/Win

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Michael Sorensen

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Avoid working for this company. They will promise you things to get you in, then tell you there is no documentation about said things. Extremely unprofessional. Update to response - please dont try to justify. PTO was promised by the hiring manager on day 1 due to the conditions. Your company refusing to honor the agreement and tell me that there is no documentation is the problem. I quit after being told that you would not honor the PTO, not before.

Tree Plants Indoor

Palm Plants Indoor

Tree Plants Indoor

Some Types of Tree Plants to Grow Indoors

With simple care tips, these tree plants can add lush greenery to your space.
An areca tree growing indoors.

The Spruce / Alonda Baird

Perhaps because of their association with tropical environments, indoor tree plants can elicit feelings of peace and relaxation like no other houseplant can. Trees are good indoor plants if you can provide the proper conditions for them. So indoor tree plant identification is key to know what your exact species needs.

Several types of indoor tree trees, including the areca tree and parlor tree, tolerate most household environments quite well. But there are some important factors to consider about indoor tree plant care.

Indoor Tree Plant Care Tips

How you care for an indoor tree plant is similar to many other houseplants that come from the tropics. Most types of indoor tree trees like the same conditions we find comfortable: warm temperatures, average humidity, and moderate light. Some indoor tree plants can even tolerate low light, though this usually will result in weaker growth.

Trees are generally slow-growing and need minimal pruning to clean up dead and broken fronds. They’ll require a quality tree fertilizer to help maintain lush growth. And you must watch out for common houseplant pests, such as spider mites and scale.

Here are some of the easiest trees to grow indoors to add a breezy, tropical feel to your home.

Chinese Fan Tree (Livistona chinensis)

Chinese fan tree with feathery frond leaves in white ceramic pot next to houseplants.

The Spruce / Kara Riley

The star-shaped leaves of Livistona chinensis set it apart from other trees with the more classic feathery fronds. While it’s slow-growing, this tree species’ mature height can reach 15 feet or greater. So it’s worth seeking out the subglobosa dwarf cultivar if you plan on growing the tree indoors.

Chinese fan trees do well in bright light, but younger plants can tolerate shady locations. Water when the top of the soil feels dry. Choose a large pot that will accommodate the long taproot that the Chinese fan tree produces. And feed this tree once a year in the spring with a slow-release fertilizer.

Light: Bright, indirect light; tolerates some shade

Water: Moderately moist soil

Color Varieties: Emerald green foliage

Areca Tree (Dypsis lutescens)

An areca tree growing indoors.

The Spruce / Alonda Baird

Also known as the bamboo tree, the areca tree (Dypsis lutescens) is one of the easiest trees to grow indoors thanks to its tolerance for low light. It produces large, feathery green fronds that have a gentle curve.

The areca tree prefers a moderate amount of water. Plant your areca tree in fertile soil, and give it a monthly fertilizer application to maintain a lush look.

Light: Sun or shade but looks its best in bright, indirect light

Water: Moderately moist soil

Color Varieties: Yellow-green stems and light green leaves

Majesty Tree (Ravenea rivularis)

Majestic tree in wicker basket with tall dark green fronds.

The Spruce / Kara Riley

The majesty tree (Ravenea rivularis) has two positive qualities that make it an ideal tree that will grow indoors: It is very shade tolerant, and it is a slow grower. However, you must be aware of two drawbacks of this tree: It needs constant moisture and humidity, and it will outgrow an indoor space over time.

If you can keep your majesty tree in a reasonably moist area, such as the kitchen or bathroom, then you can look forward to cultivating a graceful stand of dark green fronds that will add life to an empty corner of your home.

Light: Bright, indirect light for the entire day

Water: Consistently moist soil

Color Varieties: Bright green to dark green leaves

Cascade Tree (Chamaedorea cataractarum)

Green tree foliage tree isolated.

As opposed to some tree trees that feature a central trunk, Chamaedorea cataractarum is a very full tree with clumps of fronds eventually reaching 6 feet tall. You’ll be able to separate mature clumps, giving you new plant material to propagate by division.
In its native habitat, the cascade tree thrives along streams and in wet lowlands, so you must irrigate it frequently when growing it indoors. Fortunately for indoor growth, cascade trees are understory plants, so they can tolerate limited light.

Light: Bright, indirect light; tolerates shade; avoid direct sunlight

Water: Consistently moist soil

Color Varieties: Dark green leaves

Parlor Tree (Chamaedorea elegans)

Parlor tree in gold pot with small green fronds on shelf next to décor items.

The Spruce / Krystal Slagle

As the name suggests, the parlor tree (Chamaedorea elegans) is one of the easiest trees to grow indoors. It grows in average indoor light (or even artificial light) and typical room temperatures. And it requires no pruning other than an occasional tidying of dead branches.

Parlor trees flourish in above-average humidity. Be aware they might attract spider mites if conditions are very dry.

Light: Indirect light; avoid direct sun

Water: Consistently moist soil

Color Varieties: Light green leaves

Ponytail Tree (Beaucarnea recurvata)

Ponytail tree in white pot with long wispy fronds next to gold watering can and patterned pillows.

The Spruce / Lisa Ruschioni

Indoor tree plant identification should be fairly easy for the ponytail tree (Beaucarnea recurvata), with its short, sturdy trunk and gracefully arching leaves. In fact, this plant is not a true tree at all but rather a succulent.

The swollen trunk base isn’t just ornamental; it functions as a water reservoir for the plant, making it very drought tolerant. Give your ponytail tree a sunny location for optimal plant health. Moreover, it’s fine for the ponytail tree to become pot bound; in fact, this can keep growth manageable for a tabletop specimen.

Light: Full sun; tolerates bright, indirect light

Water: Moderately moist soil, will tolerate dry conditions

Color Varieties: Light green leaves

Sago Tree (Cycas revoluta)

Sago tree in white pot with shaggy pineapple-like trunk and feather-like fronds next to white watering can and window.

The Spruce / Anastasia Tretiak

If the sago tree is your first introduction to the world of indoor tree plants, you’re in for a treat. Stiff fronds grow in an upright habit from a short, shaggy trunk that resembles a pineapple. This plant (which is not a true tree but more closely related to conifers) is very slow-growing.

Choose an indoor location that receives filtered sun for four to six hours per day. The sago tree needs regular and consistent moisture, but make sure the soil surface is nearly dry between water applications.

Light: Full sun or bright, indirect light; tolerates some shade

Water: Moderately moist soil

Color Varieties: Light green leaves

The sago tree is toxic to humans and pets. So be mindful about its placement as a houseplant if you have kids or animals.

Yucca Tree (Yucca elephantipes)

Yucca tree with sharp leaves in corner of living room.

The Spruce / Krystal Slagle

Indoor tree plant identification is very important when it comes to yucca trees. Yucca aloifolia, also known as the Spanish bayonet, has razor-sharp leaves and belongs outdoors. Yucca elephantipes is the spineless yucca tree, and while its leaves do have a pointy tip, the plant is unlikely to draw blood like its spiny cousin.

You might also see the indoor yucca tree sold under the name “stick yucca.” Tough strappy green leaves emerge from an attractive trunk on the yucca tree. The plants are very drought tolerant and grow in full sun or part shade.

Light: Full sun to part shade

Water: Moderately moist soil

Color Varieties: Light green to bluish-green

Tree plant Care

Successfully growing tree plant requires carefully balancing several factors: heat, light, and fertilization. Plants that are over-fertilized and grown in warm conditions, but not given enough light, will stretch out looking for more. Plants that are given too much light without a corresponding increase in fertilizer and water will scorch. The right balance indoors likely means a bright corner, with plenty of water, and less fertilizer than you probably think.

Tree plant has a reputation for being somewhat of a temperamental plant. Although tree plants are understory plants in their natural habitat, indoors it’s a good idea to provide as much light as possible. Plants that are stretching and bleached should be moved into a brighter spot for a few weeks, but don’t expose them to full sunlight.

Soil

These trees are acid-loving plants that do best with a pH level as low as 5.0, so don’t worry about a peat-based mixture acidifying and hurting your tree plant. A standard potting mix, with some extra peat mixed in, is an ideal growing medium for tree plants1. These trees need good drainage to prevent water-logged roots.

Water

Keep the potting media evenly moist, but not waterlogged. Don’t let the plant’s soil get too dry between watering or you’ll start to lose lower leaves.

Temperature and Humidity

This plant will grow fairly well in temperatures between 65 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. It prefers high humidity but can survive in ordinary household humidity levels. In colder climates where winter air can get very dry; running a humidifier can make the plants happier. Misting the plant daily will also ensure it gets the humidity it craves. Low humidity levels can encourage insect pests.

American Fork, Utah

About American Fork, Utah

American Fork is a city in north-central Utah County, Utah, United States, at the foot of Mount Timpanogos in the Wasatch Range, north from Utah Lake. This city is thirty-two miles southeast of Salt Lake City. It is part of the Provo–Orem Metropolitan Statistical Area. The population was 33,337 in 2020. The city has grown rapidly since the 1970s.

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Reviews for Truco Services, Inc. American Fork, Utah

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Marissa Burton

starstarstarstarstar (5)

TruCo is a great company to work with for your commercial landscaping and snow removal needs! Rob is excellent to work with. He is very timely in providing quotes and has a lot of great feedback and suggestions to provide on what will look great, fit within your budget, and is knowledgeable on plants that will thrive with Utah's ever changing weather conditions. I have been impressed with TruCo's landscape maintenance as well as landscape projects which have had a quick turnaround time. I would highly recommend using TruCo!

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Yvonne Olson

starstarstarstarstar (5)

I experienced excellent all around service from landscape improvement design, scheduling and professional installation completed within the timeline we discussed. Rob, the manager does an excellent job of communicating, overseeing the install crew and making sure his customers are 100% satisfied with the job. Highly recommend TruCo for all landscaping needs.

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Heather Whiting

starstarstarstarstar (5)

We hired TruCo to do a new install of sprinklers, sod, spigot, and bury downspouts. We even have a wifi transmitter for our control box we can access from an app on our phones! We absolutely love the professionalism and quality of their work!! Our sales rep Pete was the best to work with, we highly recommend him to anyone in the market for landscaping. It was awesome seeing the finished results and we're incredibly excited to enjoy our new space!

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Jan Merideth

starstarstarstarstar (5)

TruCo installed all of our plants, trees and shrubs, drip lines, and boulders. Then they installed our amazing beautiful firepit. We loved the results and they guarantee all plants and trees up to a year. They were great and easy to work with. They listened to our needs and wants and met them 100%. Our HOA sent us a letter telling us they appreciate all the work and the way our yard looks and let us know we added value to the property. Win/Win

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Michael Sorensen

starstarstarstarstar (1)

Avoid working for this company. They will promise you things to get you in, then tell you there is no documentation about said things. Extremely unprofessional. Update to response - please dont try to justify. PTO was promised by the hiring manager on day 1 due to the conditions. Your company refusing to honor the agreement and tell me that there is no documentation is the problem. I quit after being told that you would not honor the PTO, not before.

Ponytail Palm Plant Care

Ponytail Palm Plant Care

Ponytail Palm Plant Care

Ponytail Palm Plant Profile

The ponytail palm (Beaucarnea recurvata) makes a surprisingly interesting desktop plant, considering that when grown outdoors it can be a full-size tree that towers over homes. When planted outside in full sun, ponytail palms can reach 30 feet tall, but they typically stay closer to 6 feet tall at maturity when grown indoors. Despite the common name and the appearance of the foliage, this plant is not a true palm, but rather a member of the Asparagaceae family that includes edible asparagus.

Indoors, these novel little trees are often grown in shallow pots, with a tuft of strappy green leaves emerging from a bulbous stem that seems to erupt from the soil. (The bulbous trunk is the source of one of its common names, “elephant’s foot.”) Given time and the right conditions, a small desktop plant will grow into respectable specimen plants, up to 6 feet in height or more. Ponytail palm is native to arid regions in Central America and is among the easiest of small trees to grow indoors.

When planted outdoors, spring is the traditional planting time, though a ponytail palm can be planted at almost any time. This is a very slow-growing, long-lived species. It may take five years or more for a 1-foot-tall plant to double in size.

Botanical Name Beaucarnea recurvata
Common Name Ponytail palm, elephant’s foot
Plant Type Broadleaf evergreen shrub/ tree
Mature Size 6 to 8 feet tall; 3- to 5-foot spread (up to 30 feet tall when planted outdoors)
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Sandy, well-draining soil
Soil pH 6.5 to 7.5 (neutral)
Bloom Time Seasonal bloomer
Flower Color Creamy white
Hardiness Zones 10 to 11 (USDA); usually grown as a houseplant
Native Area Semi-desert areas of Central America

How to Grow a Ponytail Palm

Ponytail palm can be grown as an outdoor plant only in USDA Zones 10 and 11, where it prefers a sandy soil in a full-sun location. When grown outdoors, it is best planted in a cactus/succulent potting mix and placed in the sunniest spot you can find; in the right location, it is largely trouble-free, provided it gets a modest amount of water at regular intervals.

As an indoor plant, the ponytail is basically a “plant it and forget it” kind of plant, providing it has enough light to thrive and somewhat steady water throughout the growing season. Keep in mind, though, that the ponytail palm is an extremely slow-growing plant, so don’t expect your desktop plant to transform into a corner specimen in one or two growing seasons.

Light

Ponytail palms like full sun or bright indirect light. When grown as an indoor plant, situate it in the brightest location you can find—a window that gets direct sun or plenty of indirect light.

Soil

This plant is native to semi-desert areas of Central America, and when planted outdoors it does best in relatively sandy but organically rich soil. As in indoor plant, it does well in a cactus/succulent potting mix augmented with peat to improve its richness.

Water

For potted indoor plants, water a ponytail palm during the growing season every seven to 14 days. The bulbous stem stores water, so be careful not to overwater it. During the winter season, cut back watering to monthly.
A ponytail palm planted in the garden rarely needs to be watered if you get any kind of regular rain. In dry climates or during periods of drought, a modest watering every two weeks is sufficient.

Temperature and Humidity

Ponytail palms prefer warm, arid temperatures, above 60 degrees Fahrenheit. However, they will survive down to 50 degrees Fahrenheit, providing these temps are not prolonged.

Fertilizer

Feed weekly with liquid fertilizer during the growing season, or use a slow-release pellet fertilizer in the spring. Reduce feeding during the winter.

Potting and Repotting

For growing indoors, pot a ponytail palm in a smallish container filled with a cactus/ succulent potting mix that is blended with some peat. Repot in the spring as needed. If your goal is to grow a large palm tree, repot it every year, but if you want to keep it smaller, repot every two or three years. Ponytail palms will thrive when slightly underpotted in a container that confines the roots.

Propagating Ponytail Palms

Ponytail palms sometimes develop offsets (“pups”) from the base, which can be removed and potted up individually. Generally, however, this is a difficult task to master because of a lack of roots on the offsets. If you want to try, use a rooting hormone to stimulate new root growth on the offset. A ponytail palm rarely (if ever) flowers indoors to produce viable seeds.

Pruning a Ponytail Palm

Damaged leaves should have the tips trimmed off back to healthy tissue. If the offsets (“pups”) send up secondary shoots, you can prune these away to maintain a central trunk and classic tree-like appearance. However, a multi-stemmed tree is often desirable, and many people welcome these secondary shoots.

Common Pests/Diseases

Like most houseplants, a ponytail palm can be susceptible to spider mites, mealybugs, and scale. Horticultural soaps or oils are good non-toxic methods for controlling these pests.

Potential but rare disease problems include leaf spots, stem rots, and bacterial leaf streak. Watering too much is the most common cause of fungal problems and stem rot.

Ponytail palms are unique-looking, long-lived indoor plants that thrive on benign neglect. They are very easy to grow, provided that you don’t overwater them! Here’s how to grow and care for a ponytail palm in your home.

About Ponytail Palms

Despite its name and palm-like appearance, the ponytail palm is not a true “palm.” In fact, it is more closely related to desert plants in the Agave and Yucca genera (such as Joshua trees).

The typical ponytail palm consists of a large, domed “stump,” which tapers off into a thinner stem. From the top of the stem, one or more rosettes of long, green, leathery leaves develop as the plant ages. Indoors, the leaves can get up to 3 feet long, but outdoors, they may be double that length.

In its native environment (eastern Mexico), the entire plant has been known to reach up to 30 feet in height! However, ponytail palms that are grown in gardens as landscape plants don’t usually get to be more than 10 feet tall. Kept indoors, they are rarely taller than 4 feet.

Care of this plant is generally simple; the most common difficulty is having to adapt your watering habits to its watering needs!

PLANTING

Choosing Soil and a Pot
Use a fast draining soil, such as a cacti and succulent potting mix. If you have potting soil, sand, and perlite already on hand, you can create your own desert soil mixture: Simply mix 1 part potting soil, 1 part perlite, and 1 part sand.
Select a pot that has a hole in the bottom, so that excess water can be drained off. Ponytail palms do not like to sit in moist soil for very long.

Use a clay pot if possible; the porous material will absorb some of the water, drying out the soil more quickly (a good thing for cacti and succulents).

GROWING

How to Care for Ponytail Palms
Ponytail palms prefer to have as much light as possible, so place the plant in a bright location. Bright, indirect sunlight is best.
Keep soil fairly dry. Water from spring through fall, allowing the top inch or two of soil to dry completely before re-watering. During the winter, only water occasionally.

To water, soak the soil and allow the excess water to drain through the bottom of the pot into a dish. Let the pot sit in the dish for several minutes, then dump out any remaining water in the dish.

Fertilize in the spring with a cacti/succulent fertilizer and bring into a brighter room for the summer months.

Normal room temperature is fine for most of the year, but keep the plant slightly cooler in the winter (50-55°F / 10-13°C) to replicate the natural dormancy cycle.

During winter, don’t let the plant sit too close to cold windows at night, as it can be severely damaged by freezing temperatures.

Repotting a Ponytail Palm

Ponytail palms will remain small if kept in a small pot. They can go for many years before needing to be repotted. Repotting every other year at the most is all a ponytail palm needs.

Moving the plant to a larger pot will give it room to grow in both height and girth. However, older plants may become difficult to manage due to their sheer size and weight if not kept on the smaller size.
When selecting a new pot, pick one large enough to leave about an inch or so of space between the ponytail palm’s trunk and the rim of the pot.

Note: Use caution when handling a ponytail palm, as its leaves have tiny serrated edges.

HARVESTING

Propagation

Rarely, a ponytail palm may produce an offset—a small baby plant that stems from the base of the adult plant. These can be cut off at the base when they reach at least 4 inches in height and planted in a succulent potting mix. Before planting, allow the cut wound to heal, then apply a bit of rooting hormone (available online and in nurseries) to encourage the offset to root.

WIT AND WISDOM

The plant’s unusual shape and coloration has granted it another strange nickname: the Elephant’s Foot Palm.
Are ponytail palms poisonous to cats? While the leaves of a ponytail palm are not toxic to feline (or canine) companions, their foliage does have abrasive edges that could irritate a pet’s mouth, so we suggest keeping the plant out of reach.

PESTS/DISEASES

Overwatering can result in stem rot. If you withhold watering, the plant may be able to internally remedy the problem. Signs of stem rot include yellowing leaves and a caudex (the plant’s base and stem) that is soft or squishy.

Spider mites and scale insects may find their way to the leaves, but can be dealt with by rubbing a cloth of dish soap and water on the stems. Spider mites are evidenced by the presence of spider-like webbing on the plant.

Brown tips on leaves can be a sign of over fertilizing or under watering, so adjust your husbandry practices appropriately. They can also be a sign that the plant is getting too much direct sunlight and too little water.

Draper, Utah

About Draper, Utah

Draper is a city in Salt Lake and Utah counties in the U.S. state of Utah, about 20 miles (32 km) south of Salt Lake City along the Wasatch Front. As of the 2020 census, the population is 51,017, up from 7,143 in 1990.

Neighborhoods in Draper, Utah

Willowbrook Estates

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Reviews for Truco Services, Inc. Draper, Utah

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Marissa Burton

starstarstarstarstar (5)

TruCo is a great company to work with for your commercial landscaping and snow removal needs! Rob is excellent to work with. He is very timely in providing quotes and has a lot of great feedback and suggestions to provide on what will look great, fit within your budget, and is knowledgeable on plants that will thrive with Utah's ever changing weather conditions. I have been impressed with TruCo's landscape maintenance as well as landscape projects which have had a quick turnaround time. I would highly recommend using TruCo!

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Yvonne Olson

starstarstarstarstar (5)

I experienced excellent all around service from landscape improvement design, scheduling and professional installation completed within the timeline we discussed. Rob, the manager does an excellent job of communicating, overseeing the install crew and making sure his customers are 100% satisfied with the job. Highly recommend TruCo for all landscaping needs.

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Raymond Ferraro

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Michael the tree guy is so smart.  He knows all about tree removal, cutting and tree trimming services.  Truco did amazing work for me.  We had 16 very old and mature trees removed. The Truco team showed up on time ready to get the job done.  They did amazing with clean up truly respect your property and your life.  Communication was really good.  They needed to move some things to get the stump grinder to our yard they put things back with no issues.  Extremely professional and truly know what they're doing.  If anyone is looking for professional tree removal or tree service you really should call Jason or Michael at Truco.

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Heather Whiting

starstarstarstarstar (5)

We hired TruCo to do a new install of sprinklers, sod, spigot, and bury downspouts. We even have a wifi transmitter for our control box we can access from an app on our phones! We absolutely love the professionalism and quality of their work!! Our sales rep Pete was the best to work with, we highly recommend him to anyone in the market for landscaping. It was awesome seeing the finished results and we're incredibly excited to enjoy our new space!

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Jan Merideth

starstarstarstarstar (5)

TruCo installed all of our plants, trees and shrubs, drip lines, and boulders. Then they installed our amazing beautiful firepit. We loved the results and they guarantee all plants and trees up to a year. They were great and easy to work with. They listened to our needs and wants and met them 100%. Our HOA sent us a letter telling us they appreciate all the work and the way our yard looks and let us know we added value to the property. Win/Win

Tree Pruning

Tree Pruning

The main reasons for pruning ornamental and shade trees include safety, health, and aesthetics. In addition, pruning can be used to stimulate fruit production and increase the value of timber. Pruning for safety involves removing branches that could fall and cause injury or property damage, trimming branches that interfere with lines of sight on streets or driveways, and removing branches that grow into utility lines. Safety pruning can be largely avoided by carefully choosing species that will not grow beyond the space available to them, and have strength and form characteristics that are suited to the site.

Pruning for health involves removing diseased or insect-infested wood, thinning the crown to increase airflow and reduce some pest problems, and removing crossing and rubbing branches. Pruning can best be used to encourage trees to develop a strong structure and reduce the likelihood of damage during severe weather. Removing broken or damaged limbs encourage wound closure.

Pruning for aesthetics involves enhancing the natural form and character of trees or stimulating flower production. Pruning for form can be especially important on open grown trees that do very little self-pruning.

All woody plants shed branches in response to shading and competition. Branches that do not produce enough carbohydrates from photosynthesis to sustain themselves die and are eventually shed; the resulting wounds are sealed by woundwood (callus). Branches that are poorly attached may be broken off by wind and accumulation of snow and ice. Branches removed by such natural forces often result in large, ragged wounds that rarely seal. Pruning as a cultural practice can be used to supplement or replace these natural processes and increase the strength and longevity of plants.

Trees have many forms, but the most common types are pyramidal (excurrent) or spherical (decurrent). Trees with pyramidal crowns, e.g., most conifers, have a strong central stem and lateral branches that are more or less horizontal and do not compete with the central stem for dominance. Trees with spherical crowns, e.g., most hardwoods, have many lateral branches that may compete for dominance. To reduce the need for pruning it is best to consider a tree’s natural form. It is very difficult to impose an unnatural form on a tree without a commitment to constant maintenance.

Pollarding and topiary are extreme examples of pruning to create a desired, unnatural effect. Pollarding is the practice of pruning trees annually to remove all new growth. The following year, a profusion of new branches is produced at the ends of the branches. Topiary involves pruning trees and shrubs into geometric or animal shapes. Both pollarding and topiary are specialized applications that involve pruning to change the natural form of trees. As topiary demonstrates, given enough care and attention plants can be pruned into nearly any form. Yet just as proper pruning can enhance the form or character of plants, improper pruning can destroy it.

Pruning Approaches

Producing strong structure should be the emphasis when pruning young trees. As trees mature, the aim of pruning will shift to maintaining tree structure, form, health and appearance.

Proper pruning cuts are made at a node, the point at which one branch or twig attaches to another. In the spring of the year growth begins at buds, and twigs grow until a new node is formed. The length of a branch between nodes is called an internode.

Crown thinning – branches to be removed are shaded in blue; pruning cuts should be made at the red lines. No more than one-fourth of the living branches should be removed at one time.

The most common types of pruning are:

Crown thinning, primarily for hardwoods, is the selective removal of branches to increase light penetration and air movement throughout the crown of a tree. The intent is to maintain or develop a tree’s structure and form. To avoid unnecessary stress and prevent excessive production of epicormic sprouts, no more than one-quarter of the living crown should be removed at a time. If it is necessary to remove more, it should be done over successive years.

Types of branch unions

Branches with strong U-shaped angles of attachment should be retained. Branches with narrow, V-shaped angles of attachment often form included bark and should be removed. Included bark forms when two branches grow at sharply acute angles to one another, producing a wedge of inward-rolled bark between them. Included bark prevents strong attachment of branches, often causing a crack at the point below where the branches meet. Codominant stems that are approximately the same size and arise from the same position often form included bark. Removing some of the lateral branches from a codominant stem can reduce its growth enough to allow the other stem to become dominant.
Lateral branches should be no more than one half to three-quarters of the diameter of the stem at the point of attachment. Avoid producing “lion’s tails,” tufts of branches and foliage at the ends of branches, caused by removing all inner lateral branches and foliage. Lion’s tails can result in sunscalding, abundant epicormic sprouts, and weak branch structure and breakage.

Crown raising is the practice of removing branches from the bottom of the crown of a tree to provide clearance for pedestrians, vehicles, buildings, lines of site, or to develop a clear stem for timber production. Also, removing lower branches on white pines can prevent blister rust. For street trees the minimum clearance is often specified by municipal ordinance. After pruning, the ratio of the living crown to total tree height should be at least two-thirds.

On young trees “temporary” branches may be retained along the stem to encourage taper and protect trees from vandalism and sun scald. Less vigorous shoots should be selected as temporary branches and should be about 10 to 15 cm apart along the stem. They should be pruned annually to slow their growth and should be removed eventually.

Crown reduction pruning is most often used when a tree has grown too large for its permitted space. This method, sometimes called drop crotch pruning, is preferred to topping because it results in a more natural appearance, increases the time before pruning is needed again, and minimizes stress.

Crown reduction pruning, a method of last resort, often results in large pruning wounds to stems that may lead to decay. This method should never be used on a tree with a pyramidal growth form. A better long term solution is to remove the tree and replace it
Crown reduction – branches to be removed are shaded in blue; pruning cuts should be made where indicated with red lines. To prevent branch dieback, cuts should be made at lateral branches that are at least one-third the diameter of the stem at their union.

Pruning Cuts

Pruning cuts should be made so that only branch tissue is removed and stem tissue is not damaged. At the point where the branch attaches to the stem, branch and stem tissues remain separate, but are contiguous. If only branch tissues are cut when pruning, the stem tissues of the tree will probably not become decayed, and the wound will seal more effectively.

1. Pruning living branches
To find the proper place to cut a branch, look for the branch collar that grows from the stem tissue at the underside of the base of the branch. On the upper surface, there is usually a branch bark ridge that runs (more or less) parallel to the branch angle, along the stem of the tree. A proper pruning cut does not damage either the branch bark ridge or the branch collar.

A proper cut begins just outside the branch bark ridge and angles down away from the stem of the tree, avoiding injury to the branch collar. Make the cut as close as possible to the stem in the branch axil, but outside the branch bark ridge, so that stem tissue is not injured and the wound can seal in the shortest time possible. If the cut is too far from the stem, leaving a branch stub, the branch tissue usually dies and wound wood forms from the stem tissue. Wound closure is delayed because the wound wood must seal over the stub that was left.

The quality of pruning cuts can be evaluated by examining pruning wounds after one growing season. A concentric ring of wound wood will form from proper pruning cuts. Flush cuts made inside the branch bark ridge or branch collar, result in pronounced development of wound wood on the sides of the pruning wounds with very little wound wood forming on the top or bottom. As described above, stub cuts result in the death of the remaining branch and wound wood forms around the base from stem tissues. When pruning small branches with hand pruners, make sure the tools are sharp enough branch collar. This cut will prevent a falling branch from tearing the stem tissue as it pulls away from the tree.

1. The second cut should be outside the first cut, all the way through the branch, leaving a short stub.
2. The stub is then cut just outside the branch bark ridge/branch collar, completing the operation.

2. Pruning dead branches

Prune dead branches in much the same way as live branches. Making the correct cut is usually easy because the branch collar and the branch bark ridge, can be distinguished from the dead branch, because they continue to grow (Fig. 6A). Make the pruning cut just outside of the ring of woundwood tissue that has formed, being careful not to cause unnecessary injury (Fig. 6C). Large dead branches should be supported with one hand or cut with the threestep method, just as live branches. Cutting large living branches with the three step method is more critical because of the greater likelihood of bark ripping.

3. Drop Crotch Cuts
A proper cut begins just above the branch bark ridge and extends through the stem parallel to the branch bark ridge. Usually, the stem being removed is too large to be supported with one hand, so the three cut method should be used.

1. With the first cut, make a notch on the side of the stem away from the branch to be retained, well above the branch crotch.
2. Begin the second cut inside the branch crotch, staying well above the branch bark ridge, and cut through the stem above the notch.
3. Cut the remaining stub just inside the branch bark ridge through the stem parallel to the branch bark ridge.
To prevent the abundant growth of epicormics sprouts on the stem below the cut, or dieback of the stem to a lower lateral branch, make the cut at a lateral branch that is at least one-third of the diameter of the stem at their union.

South Jordan, Utah

About South Jordan, Utah

South Jordan is a city in south central Salt Lake County, Utah, United States, 18 miles (29 km) south of Salt Lake City. Part of the Salt Lake City metropolitan area, the city lies in the Salt Lake Valley along the banks of the Jordan River between the 10,000-foot (3,000 m) Oquirrh Mountains and the 11,000-foot (3,400 m) Wasatch Mountains. The city has 3.5 miles (5.6 km) of the Jordan River Parkway that contains fishing ponds, trails, parks, and natural habitats. The Salt Lake County fair grounds and equestrian park, 67-acre (27 ha) Oquirrh Lake, and 37 public parks are located inside the city. As of 2020, there were 77,487 people in South Jordan.

Neighborhoods in South Jordan, Utah

South Jordan

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Map of South Jordan, Utah

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Driving Directions from Supreme Tree Experts to 4640 Commerce Dr, Murray, UT 84107, USA

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Reviews for Truco Services, Inc. South Jordan, Utah

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Marissa Burton

starstarstarstarstar (5)

TruCo is a great company to work with for your commercial landscaping and snow removal needs! Rob is excellent to work with. He is very timely in providing quotes and has a lot of great feedback and suggestions to provide on what will look great, fit within your budget, and is knowledgeable on plants that will thrive with Utah's ever changing weather conditions. I have been impressed with TruCo's landscape maintenance as well as landscape projects which have had a quick turnaround time. I would highly recommend using TruCo!

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Yvonne Olson

starstarstarstarstar (5)

I experienced excellent all around service from landscape improvement design, scheduling and professional installation completed within the timeline we discussed. Rob, the manager does an excellent job of communicating, overseeing the install crew and making sure his customers are 100% satisfied with the job. Highly recommend TruCo for all landscaping needs.

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Raymond Ferraro

starstarstarstarstar (5)

Michael the tree guy is so smart.  He knows all about tree removal, cutting and tree trimming services.  Truco did amazing work for me.  We had 16 very old and mature trees removed. The Truco team showed up on time ready to get the job done.  They did amazing with clean up truly respect your property and your life.  Communication was really good.  They needed to move some things to get the stump grinder to our yard they put things back with no issues.  Extremely professional and truly know what they're doing.  If anyone is looking for professional tree removal or tree service you really should call Jason or Michael at Truco.

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Heather Whiting

starstarstarstarstar (5)

We hired TruCo to do a new install of sprinklers, sod, spigot, and bury downspouts. We even have a wifi transmitter for our control box we can access from an app on our phones! We absolutely love the professionalism and quality of their work!! Our sales rep Pete was the best to work with, we highly recommend him to anyone in the market for landscaping. It was awesome seeing the finished results and we're incredibly excited to enjoy our new space!

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Jan Merideth

starstarstarstarstar (5)

TruCo installed all of our plants, trees and shrubs, drip lines, and boulders. Then they installed our amazing beautiful firepit. We loved the results and they guarantee all plants and trees up to a year. They were great and easy to work with. They listened to our needs and wants and met them 100%. Our HOA sent us a letter telling us they appreciate all the work and the way our yard looks and let us know we added value to the property. Win/Win

Apple Trees Pruning

Apple Trees Pruning

Apple Trees Pruning

When an apple tree becomes too big for a section or is in danger of falling because of disease or age, tree pruning or tree removal may be your only option. As tree pruning and arboriculture experts, the tree trimming crews have everything you need to get the job done and offer both a one off service or ongoing maintenance programs, as required.

Tree Pruning

Whether your objective is to promote tree growth or better fruit production, or to improve your view and let more sunlight in, our tree trimming crews are qualified and experienced to do the job.

Pruning a tree in a confined residential section can require a great deal of skill. Key considerations need to be given to avoid damage to surrounding buildings, water pipes, power lines and existing vegetation.

Using modern climbing techniques, our arborists can access trouble spots in the tree canopy and remove only necessary branches, without damaging any surrounding branches. Crown reductions and pruning to improve structural integrity are part of our everyday work.

In particularly confined spaces, limbs can be lowered down in small sections using specialized roping techniques, cranes, cherry pickers and even helicopters for more complicated sites.

Hedge Trimming: The hedge trimming service caters for hedges of all heights and sizes. With the right equipment for removal of hedges, we make light work of all shapes and sizes of hedge trimming.

Green Asset Management: Managing your green assets on an ongoing basis is the smartest and most economical way to maximize tree health and vitality.

Pruning around a Power line

Trees that grow too high may stretch towards electrical cables and cause problems. Tree branches can also obstruct views. In short, tree removal is needed when these situations occur. Homeowners may be compelled to take away trees to make way for a particular construction project. You have the option to cut down unwanted trees provided you have the expertise and equipment. Otherwise, get the services of professional tree removal services. These companies will give the service you like for a minimal cost.

The process of cutting trees is a complicated task. It has to be carried out by professionals who can cut down trees without destroying any structures. The task is more dangerous if the trees stand near electrical posts and wires. Trees located near edifices and fences are not easy to remove while those located in open spaces are easier to remove. Costs depend on the tallness, thickness, form and quantity of branches.

Expert cutters know how to take care of cutting timber. These service providers do not simply cut a tree without a plan. Measurements have to be taken at the start so that the falling log does not hit any person, house, vehicle or electric post and wires. Trees should be cut at the correct angle so it goes down on the proper direction.

Stump removal is also difficult. It calls for the work of experts to avoid damages. Tree cutting services know how to operate complicated gear such as cranes, special ladders and ropes. These people also consider the safety factor and disease control aspects so you can be assured of a complete service even if you have to spend some money.

Tackling the job yourself can be very dangerous, and specialist equipment is needed to avoid electrocution. The expertise, equipment and procedures (including significant public liability insurance cover) to maintain the electrical network from any possible interruptions is essential and needed when dealing with trees (apple tree) around a power line.

A crew is employed by a number of major power networks across the country to scope and audit power networks, and to carry out line clearing.

How to Prune Apple Trees

New to pruning? Then we will cover all you need to know about how to prune apple trees, including why, when, which, with what, and how in eight easy steps.

Why to Prune Apple Trees

We prune apple trees for four main reasons.

First, to make the tree easy to maintain and harvest by controlling the height and shape.

Secondly, to maintain a healthy tree by removing dead, diseased or damaged wood.

Thirdly, to improve air circulation which reduces pests and diseases.

Fourthly, to let sunlight reach the fruits so they can grow healthy and large.

When to Prune Apple Trees

It is best to prune an apple tree when it’s still dormant, this means early spring, about two weeks after the late frost. Not only are the buds easier to see and cut, but the cuts will also heal more quickly.

If you prune in the fall, then new growth will start but will be damaged by the cold winter. If you prune in the early winter, then the open cut can be susceptible to diseases.

If you see dead, diseased, or damaged, wood, you should cut these off as soon as you notice, no matter the time in the year so that the tree isn’t damaged any further.

Which Apple Trees to Prune

Wait to do the heavy pruning in the third year of growth after planting since this will allow the tree to establish itself. If your apple tree provides a lot of shade, then it needs to be pruned.

When there is a lot of pruning to do, then space out the pruning over several seasons.

What to Prune Apple Trees With

The tools to use depends on which type of branch you are cutting. In all cases though, be sure to sterilize the tools with hot soapy water or disinfectant to prevent any damage or infection.

For small branches and twigs, use hand pruners
.
For large branches about 1” thick, use loppers. These provide good leverage.

For branches about 3” thick and more, use a saw.

How to Prune Apple Trees

Step 0: Aim for a Central Leader, Pyramidal Form

Apple trees should have a pyramidal and conical shape, with shorter branches at the top so that they can allow sunlight to reach the lower branches.

Additionally, apple trees should be pruned with a central leader form, with one central branch growing vertically from the trunk.

Step 1: Remove Any Dead, Diseased, or Damaged Limbs (3 D’s)

You know if a branch is dead if it’s brittle and breaks very easily.

You usually know if a branch is diseased if the wood is a different color than the other branches around it.

You will see a damaged branch when it has partially broken from the weight of the fruits. Additionally, when two branches have crossed and rubbed against one another this can also damage the wood.

Once you have identified the branches with the 3 D’s, then cut the wood back to the nearest bud where the wood is still healthy.

Step 2: Prune Competing Central Leader Branches

Your apple tree should have one central leading branch which grows vertically from the trunk.

If there are multiple central leading branches, then choose the healthier and stronger one and cut the rest so that the tree remains strong.

Step 3: Prune Non-Primary Scaffold Branches

Your apple tree should have 2-6 primary scaffold branches (depending on the size of the tree) which connect to the central lead branch and are evenly spaced around it.

If two scaffold branches are too close to one another, remove one.

If you look at the tree from the top, it should look like a star.

These scaffold branches should have a 45 to 50 degree angle from the trunk.

When the angle is less than this, then the branch will fall from the weight of the fruit.

When the angle is more than this, then there won’t be as much fruit on the branches.

Step 4: Prune Suckers

When shoots or branches grow near the base of the trunk prune them so that the shape is preserved. Suckers shouldn’t grow below the canopy of the tree.

Step 5: Prune Downward & Inward Growing Branches

First, identify the branches growing downward. Then prune them since they won’t be able to bear the weight of the fruit.
Also prune any branches growing inward so that they don’t rub against other branches.

Step 6: Prune the Whorls

Whorls are places where three or more small branches grow from the same location. Once you identify the whorls then choose the healthier and strongest one, and prune the rest. After all, the branch won’t be able to support all of the small branches growing in this one location.

Step 7: Prune Back All Branches

In order for the stems to become thicker and develop flowers cut all branches back by ⅓ of its original length. However, make sure to make these cuts just above a bud that faces outward in order for the tree to have a healthy shape.

Step 8: Thin the Buds

Lastly, thin out the fruiting buds so that they are 4-6” apart. This will ensure that the branch bears just enough weight from the apples.
And voila! You are done! If you have any questions, we are here to help!

Salt Lake City, Utah

About Salt Lake City, Utah

Salt Lake City is the capital and most populous city of Utah, United States. It is the seat of Salt Lake County, the most populous county in Utah. With a population of 200,133 in 2020, the city is the core of the Salt Lake City metropolitan area, which had a population of 1,257,936 at the 2020 census. Salt Lake City is further situated within a larger metropolis known as the Salt Lake City–Ogden–Provo Combined Statistical Area, a corridor of contiguous urban and suburban development stretched along a 120-mile (190 km) segment of the Wasatch Front, comprising a population of 2,746,164, making it the 22nd largest in the nation. It is also the central core of the larger of only two major urban areas located within the Great Basin.

Bus Stops in Salt Lake City, Utah to Truco Services, Inc.

Bus Stop in Greyhound: Bus Station Salt Lake City, Utah to Truco Services, Inc.

Bus Stop in Salt Lake Central Salt Lake City, Utah to Truco Services, Inc.

Bus Stop in Greyhound: Bus Stop Salt Lake City, Utah to Truco Services, Inc.

Bus Stop in Stadium Station (EB) Salt Lake City, Utah to Truco Services, Inc.

Bus Stop in South Salt Lake City Station Salt Lake City, Utah to Truco Services, Inc.

Bus Stop in 2100 S / 700 E (WB) Salt Lake City, Utah to Truco Services, Inc.

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Bus Stop in South Salt Lake City Station Salt Lake City, Utah to Truco Services, Inc.

Bus Stop in 900 E / Wilson Ave (SB) Salt Lake City, Utah to Truco Services, Inc.

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Map of Salt Lake City, Utah

Driving Directions in Salt Lake City, Utah to Truco Services, Inc.

Driving Directions from Hidden Oak Tree Care to 4640 Commerce Dr, Murray, UT 84107, USA

Driving Directions from A Swedin Tree Expert to 4640 Commerce Dr, Murray, UT 84107, USA

Driving Directions from Atlas Tree Service to 4640 Commerce Dr, Murray, UT 84107, USA

Driving Directions from Diamond Tree Experts to 4640 Commerce Dr, Murray, UT 84107, USA

Driving Directions from Arbor+ to 4640 Commerce Dr, Murray, UT 84107, USA

Driving Directions from Integrated Tree Professionals to 4640 Commerce Dr, Murray, UT 84107, USA

Driving Directions from Urban Oaks Tree Service to 4640 Commerce Dr, Murray, UT 84107, USA

Driving Directions from Greenlite Tree Care to 4640 Commerce Dr, Murray, UT 84107, USA

Driving Directions from Heritage Tree Experts to 4640 Commerce Dr, Murray, UT 84107, USA

Driving Directions from Arborcare-Arborscape, Inc. to 4640 Commerce Dr, Murray, UT 84107, USA

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Driving Directions from Amen Trees to 4640 Commerce Dr, Murray, UT 84107, USA

Reviews for Truco Services, Inc. Salt Lake City, Utah

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Marissa Burton

starstarstarstarstar (5)

TruCo is a great company to work with for your commercial landscaping and snow removal needs! Rob is excellent to work with. He is very timely in providing quotes and has a lot of great feedback and suggestions to provide on what will look great, fit within your budget, and is knowledgeable on plants that will thrive with Utah's ever changing weather conditions. I have been impressed with TruCo's landscape maintenance as well as landscape projects which have had a quick turnaround time. I would highly recommend using TruCo!

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Yvonne Olson

starstarstarstarstar (5)

I experienced excellent all around service from landscape improvement design, scheduling and professional installation completed within the timeline we discussed. Rob, the manager does an excellent job of communicating, overseeing the install crew and making sure his customers are 100% satisfied with the job. Highly recommend TruCo for all landscaping needs.

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Raymond Ferraro

starstarstarstarstar (5)

Michael the tree guy is so smart.  He knows all about tree removal, cutting and tree trimming services.  Truco did amazing work for me.  We had 16 very old and mature trees removed. The Truco team showed up on time ready to get the job done.  They did amazing with clean up truly respect your property and your life.  Communication was really good.  They needed to move some things to get the stump grinder to our yard they put things back with no issues.  Extremely professional and truly know what they're doing.  If anyone is looking for professional tree removal or tree service you really should call Jason or Michael at Truco.

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Heather Whiting

starstarstarstarstar (5)

We hired TruCo to do a new install of sprinklers, sod, spigot, and bury downspouts. We even have a wifi transmitter for our control box we can access from an app on our phones! We absolutely love the professionalism and quality of their work!! Our sales rep Pete was the best to work with, we highly recommend him to anyone in the market for landscaping. It was awesome seeing the finished results and we're incredibly excited to enjoy our new space!

Truco Services, Inc. Reviews

Jan Merideth

starstarstarstarstar (5)

TruCo installed all of our plants, trees and shrubs, drip lines, and boulders. Then they installed our amazing beautiful firepit. We loved the results and they guarantee all plants and trees up to a year. They were great and easy to work with. They listened to our needs and wants and met them 100%. Our HOA sent us a letter telling us they appreciate all the work and the way our yard looks and let us know we added value to the property. Win/Win