How to Safely Remove a Fallen Tree

HOW TO SAFELY REMOVE A FALLEN TREE

Safely removing fallen trees is of paramount importance due to the potential hazards and risks they pose. Here are several key reasons highlighting the importance of safe fallen tree removal:

1. Personal Safety: The primary concern is the safety of individuals involved in the removal process, including homeowners, bystanders, and anyone assisting with the task. Improper handling of fallen trees can lead to serious injuries or fatalities.

2. Property Protection: Fallen trees can cause significant damage to property, including homes, vehicles, fences, and other structures. By removing them safely, you minimize the risk of further damage to your property and those of your neighbors.

3. Utility Lines: Fallen trees can bring down power lines, communication cables, and utility poles. This not only disrupts essential services but also poses electrocution and fire hazards. Safe removal helps avoid contact with live wires and reduces the risk of electrical accidents.

4. Environmental Impact: Removing fallen trees improperly can harm the environment. For instance, using improper cutting techniques or leaving debris scattered can damage vegetation, soil, and ecosystems. Safe removal ensures minimal environmental impact.

5. Preventing Secondary Damage: When a tree falls, it often creates a tangled mess of branches and debris. If not cleared properly, this debris can obstruct pathways, drainage systems, and access points, leading to further damage during rainstorms and inclement weather.

6. Mitigating Liability: Property owners have a legal responsibility to ensure their premises are safe. If a fallen tree on your property causes harm or damage to others, you could be held liable for negligence. Safe removal demonstrates your commitment to maintaining a safe environment.

7. Preserving Surrounding Trees: Incorrect removal methods can damage nearby trees and vegetation. When a fallen tree is removed safely, it minimizes the potential harm to neighboring trees and promotes the overall health of the ecosystem.

8. Emergency Access: Fallen trees can block roadways, driveways, and emergency access routes. Swift and safe removal helps ensure that emergency services can reach your location promptly when needed.

9. Professional Reputation: If you’re a professional in the field, such as a landscaper or arborist, practicing safe tree removal enhances your reputation and client trust. Clients appreciate professionals who prioritize safety and minimize potential damage.

10. Skill and Expertise: Removing fallen trees safely requires proper training, experience, and understanding of tree physics and cutting techniques. By employing these skills, you not only protect yourself and your property but also set an example for others in your community.

Potential Risks And Hazards Involved In A Fallen Tree

Removing a fallen tree can be hazardous due to various risks involved. Understanding these risks is crucial to ensure the safety of everyone involved in the removal process. Here are some potential risks and hazards associated with fallen tree removal:

1. Physical Injury: The process of cutting and removing a fallen tree involves the use of heavy equipment and tools such as chainsaws, axes, and ropes. Improper handling of these tools can lead to cuts, abrasions, and other injuries.

2. Falling Hazards: While working around a fallen tree, there’s a risk of branches, limbs, or even the entire tree itself falling unexpectedly. These falling objects can cause serious injuries to workers and bystanders.

3. Entanglement: Dealing with fallen trees often requires workers to navigate through tangled branches, vines, and other debris. This can lead to tripping, falling, or getting caught, potentially causing injuries.

4. Kickback: Chainsaws are commonly used for cutting fallen trees. Improper use of chainsaws can result in kickback, where the saw blade suddenly jumps back towards the user, causing severe injuries.

5. Electrocution: Fallen trees can bring down power lines, creating a risk of electrocution for anyone in the vicinity. Contact with live wires can be fatal.

6. Structural Damage: If the fallen tree is located near structures such as houses, fences, or utility poles, improper removal can lead to unintended damage to these structures.

7. Unstable Ground: The area around a fallen tree might have uneven terrain, holes, or hidden obstacles that can cause slips, trips, and falls.

8. Underlying Tension: Fallen trees can exert tension on surrounding trees, branches, and debris. Cutting the fallen tree without considering these tension points can lead to unexpected movements and hazards.

9. Lack of Proper Training: Without proper training and experience, individuals may not be aware of the correct cutting techniques, safety protocols, and potential risks involved in tree removal.

10. Inadequate Equipment: Using inappropriate or poorly maintained equipment can increase the risk of accidents. Chainsaws, ropes, and other tools need to be in good condition to ensure safe removal.

11. Limited Visibility: Working in densely vegetated areas or during adverse weather conditions can reduce visibility, making it difficult to assess potential hazards and properly execute cutting techniques.

12. Environmental Impact: Removing a fallen tree without considering the surrounding environment can lead to damage to other plants, soil, and wildlife habitats.

13. Lack of Communication: Inadequate communication among team members during the removal process can lead to confusion, coordination issues, and increased risks.

14. Fatigue and Stress: The physical and mental demands of fallen tree removal can lead to fatigue, reduced concentration, and increased likelihood of accidents.

15. Medical Emergencies: Working with tools and heavy equipment increases the risk of injuries that may require immediate medical attention.

Given these potential risks, it’s important to prioritize safety during fallen tree removal. Whenever possible, consult with trained professionals or arborists to ensure that the removal is conducted safely and effectively. Proper planning, the use of appropriate equipment, and adherence to safety protocols can significantly reduce the likelihood of accidents and injuries.

Assessing the Situation

Certainly, let’s delve deeper into how to vividly assess the situation when dealing with a fallen tree:

1. Size, Weight, and Condition: When you approach the fallen tree, take a moment to gauge its size and weight. Stretch out your arms to estimate its length and width. If possible, use a measuring tape to get accurate dimensions. Notice any visible cracks, signs of decay, or weak points. A tree that appears healthy on the outside may have hidden issues.

2. Location and Surroundings: Stand back and observe the tree’s position. Is it leaning against another tree, lying across a path, or near structures? Note any structures, vehicles, power lines, or obstacles that could be affected during removal. Consider the tree’s direction of fall if it’s cut, and identify a clear path that avoids any potential hazards.

3. Potential Dangers: Look up to check for power lines above and around the tree. A fallen tree might have brought down power lines, creating a dangerous situation. Be aware of these lines and maintain a safe distance. Examine the fallen tree for any branches that might be under tension or pressure. These can unexpectedly snap or move during removal.

4. Level of Complexity: Consider whether the removal is straightforward or complex. A simple situation involves a tree that’s away from structures and power lines, and there are no major obstacles. A complex scenario might involve a large tree entangled in power lines or leaning against a building.

5. Equipment and Tools: Ensure you’re wearing the appropriate personal protective equipment (PPE) such as a hard hat, safety glasses, and gloves. Assess whether a chainsaw is needed to cut through the fallen tree. Check that the chainsaw is well-maintained and has a sharp chain. If rigging is necessary, make sure you have strong ropes and pulleys on hand.

6. Safety Considerations: Plan for emergencies. Identify clear escape routes that lead to safe zones away from the tree. Have a first aid kit readily accessible, and ensure you have a means of communication to contact emergency services if needed. This is especially crucial if you’re working in a remote area.

7. Bystander Safety: Mark out a safe perimeter around the work area using cones, tape, or caution signs. Ensure that bystanders, including pets, are kept a safe distance away from the tree. Communicate clearly with anyone in the vicinity about the potential risks and the need to stay back.

8. Decision on Removal Approach: Based on your assessment, decide whether you’re comfortable proceeding with the removal on your own. If you’re uncertain or if the situation seems complex, consider seeking professional help. Their expertise and specialized equipment can minimize risks.

9. Documentation: Take clear photos of the fallen tree from different angles. These photos can be valuable for planning, discussing with professionals, or documenting any damage caused by the tree.

10. Emergency Plan: Have emergency contact numbers stored in your phone or written down. Be prepared to call for help in case of accidents or unforeseen situations.

By vividly assessing the fallen tree and its surroundings, you’ll be able to make informed decisions that prioritize safety and enable a smoother removal process. Remember, when in doubt, it’s always wise to consult professionals who have experience in dealing with fallen trees and the associated risks.

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Does Landscaping Count as Construction?

Does Landscaping Count as Construction? Exploring the Intricacies and Implications

When pondering the question of whether landscaping should be categorized as construction, a complex web of factors emerges, encompassing everything from design and execution to tax implications and property value. Landscaping involves altering the outdoor spaces of a property, ranging from creating lush gardens to building outdoor kitchens and hardscapes. While some may view landscaping as a mere aesthetic enhancement, others argue that it qualifies as construction due to the significant physical and financial investments it often requires. In this extensive article, we will delve deep into the world of landscaping, considering the different perspectives, financial aspects, legal implications, and broader impacts it has on homeowners and their properties.

Defining Landscaping and Construction

To embark on this exploration, let’s establish clear definitions for the terms at hand. Landscaping generally refers to the planning, design, and implementation of various features and elements within outdoor spaces to enhance their visual appeal and functionality. These features can range from softscapes like lawns, plants, and flowers to hardscapes such as patios, decks, fences, and retaining walls. Construction, on the other hand, involves the creation, alteration, or addition of structures, usually requiring the use of heavy machinery, materials, and skilled labor.

Landscaping as a Construction Project

The debate regarding whether landscaping should be considered construction stems from the substantial work and resources that often go into transforming a property’s outdoor spaces. Many landscaping projects involve tasks traditionally associated with construction, such as grading, excavation, and building structures. For instance, installing a patio, constructing a retaining wall, or even leveling the yard to correct drainage issues often require heavy equipment, skilled labor, and adherence to local building codes. In these cases, it becomes difficult to draw a clear distinction between landscaping and construction, as both processes involve altering the property’s physical characteristics.

Financial Investments and Tax Implications

One of the crucial aspects that link landscaping to construction is the significant financial investment required. Landscaping projects can entail substantial costs, ranging from materials and equipment to labor and design services. Homeowners often allocate a substantial portion of their budget to landscaping, treating it as a capital improvement that can potentially increase their property’s value. While construction typically involves erecting new structures, landscaping can be seen as a way to enhance existing structures and outdoor areas, thereby increasing the overall appeal and market value of the property.

Tax considerations play a pivotal role in understanding the relationship between landscaping and construction. Homeowners might wonder whether the money spent on landscaping qualifies for deductions or affects their property’s tax basis. Generally, expenditures on landscaping are considered capital improvements, which can be added to the property’s cost basis. A higher cost basis can potentially reduce capital gains taxes when the property is sold. However, navigating the intricacies of tax law and understanding the specific regulations in your jurisdiction can be challenging. Seeking guidance from tax professionals or legal experts is advised to make informed decisions about capital improvements and potential tax benefits.

Property Value and Curb Appeal

The concept of curb appeal often interweaves landscaping and construction, as both elements contribute to the first impression a property makes on potential buyers or visitors. A well-designed and meticulously maintained landscape can greatly enhance a property’s aesthetic appeal, drawing in potential buyers and commanding a higher selling price. The visual impact of a professionally landscaped property can significantly influence the perceived value of the home, blurring the lines between landscaping as a mere aesthetic endeavor and as a construction-related investment.

Landscaping’s Impact on Property Sales

Numerous studies have shown a positive correlation between well-executed landscaping and quicker property sales. A home with lush gardens, manicured lawns, and inviting outdoor spaces can attract more potential buyers and command higher offers. This underscores the idea that landscaping is not just about adding pretty features; it’s about creating an environment that resonates with prospective homeowners and fulfills their desires for a functional and appealing outdoor living area.

Different Types of Landscaping Projects

To grasp the multifaceted nature of landscaping, it’s essential to explore the various types of projects that fall under its umbrella. Landscaping projects can be categorized into softscapes and hardscapes, each contributing to the overall visual and functional aspects of the outdoor space.

Softscapes: Softscapes involve the use of living elements, such as plants, trees, flowers, and lawns, to create a harmonious outdoor environment. Planting trees and shrubs strategically can provide shade, privacy, and aesthetic beauty. Lawns offer a green canvas that serves as a gathering space and contributes to the property’s visual appeal. Well-planned softscape designs consider factors such as climate, soil type, and maintenance requirements to create sustainable and attractive landscapes.

Hardscapes: Hardscape projects encompass the construction of non-living elements, including patios, decks, pathways, fences, and water features. These structures not only enhance the visual appeal of the property but also provide functional outdoor living spaces. Patios and decks offer areas for relaxation and entertainment, while fences provide privacy and security. Properly designed hardscapes integrate seamlessly with the surrounding landscape, forming cohesive and inviting outdoor spaces.

Blurring the Lines: Landscape Construction Services

The line between landscaping and construction becomes even blurrier when considering landscape construction services. Landscape construction involves the creation of built elements within the outdoor space that go beyond traditional landscaping tasks. These services can include the installation of retaining walls, outdoor kitchens, fire pits, pergolas, and more. These structures often require the expertise of construction professionals and may involve permits, structural considerations, and adherence to building codes.

Landscape Architects and Designers: Bridging the Gap

The involvement of landscape architects and designers further bridges the gap between landscaping and construction. These professionals combine their artistic vision with technical expertise to create outdoor spaces that are not only visually appealing but also functional and structurally sound. They collaborate with contractors to ensure that design concepts are executed seamlessly, blurring the boundaries between design and construction.

Maintenance Considerations

Another perspective to consider is the long-term maintenance required for landscaped properties. While landscaping projects can undoubtedly increase property value, they also demand ongoing maintenance efforts to preserve their appeal. Lawns, plants, and trees need regular care, which may include mowing, pruning, fertilizing, and pest control. Hardscapes also require maintenance to prevent deterioration and ensure their longevity. The ongoing costs and efforts associated with maintenance further align landscaping with construction, as both involve continuous investment to protect and enhance the property.

Conclusion

In the end, the question of whether landscaping counts as construction is not a simple one to answer. The intricacies and implications discussed in this article highlight the interconnectedness of these two domains. Landscaping projects often involve construction-like tasks, financial investments, tax considerations, and significant impacts on property value. The blurred boundaries between landscaping and construction are perhaps reflective of the broader trend in real estate, where outdoor spaces are increasingly valued as extensions of indoor living areas.

Whether homeowners view landscaping as a creative pursuit, a capital improvement, or a form of construction, its undeniable influence on property aesthetics, functionality, and value cannot be overlooked. As the fields of architecture, design, and construction continue to evolve, landscaping will remain an essential element in shaping the built environment and enhancing the lives of homeowners.

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Service Berry

Service Berry

Service Berry

Amelanchier (/æməˈlænʃɪər/ am-ə-LAN-sheer), also known as shadbush, shadwood or shadblow, serviceberry or sarvisberry (or just sarvis), juneberry, saskatoon, sugarplum, wild-plum or chuckley pear, is a genus of about 20 species of deciduous-leaved shrubs and small trees in the rose family (Rosaceae).

Amelanchier is a known native to temperate regions of the Northern Hemisphere, growing primarily in early successional habitats. It is most diverse taxonomically in North America, especially in the northeastern United States and adjacent southeastern Canada, and at least one species is native to every U.S. state except Hawaii and to every Canadian province and territory. Two species also occur in Asia, and one in Europe. The taxonomic classification of shadbushes has long perplexed botanists, horticulturalists, and others, as suggested by the range in number of species recognized in the genus, from 6 to 33, in two recent publications. A major source of complexity comes from the occurrence of hybridization, polyploidy, and apomixis (asexual seed production), making species difficult to characterize and identify.

The various species of Amelanchier grow to 0.2–20 m tall; some are small trees, some are multistemmed, clump-forming shrubs, and yet others form extensive low shrubby patches (clones). The bark is gray or less often brown in color, and in tree species smooth or fissuring when older. The leaves are deciduous, cauline, alternate, simple, lanceolate to elliptic to orbiculate, 0.5–10 x 0.5–5.5 cm, thin to coriaceous, with surfaces above glabrous or densely tomentose at flowering, and glabrous or more or less hairy beneath at maturity. The inflorescences are terminal, with 1–20 flowers, erect or drooping, either in clusters of one to four flowers, or in racemes with 4–20 flowers. The flowers have five white (rarely somewhat pink, yellow, or streaked with red), linear to orbiculate petals, 2.6–25 mm long, with the petals in one species (A. nantucketensis) often andropetalous (bearing apical microsporangia adaxially). The flowers appear in early spring, “when the shad run” according to North-American tradition (leading to names such as “shadbush”). The fruit is a berry-like pome, red to purple to nearly black at maturity, 5–15 mm diameter, insipid to delectably sweet, maturing in summer. Amelanchier plants are valued horticulturally, and their fruits are important to wildlife.

Some of the Selected species

Amelanchier alnifolia

For North American species, the taxonomy follows the Flora of North America; for Asian species the Flora of China; and for the one European species the Flora Europaea.

Amelanchier alnifolia – Saskatoon serviceberry, alder-leaved shadbush, saskatoon, saskatoon berry
Amelanchier arborea – downy serviceberry
Amelanchier asiatica – Korean juneberry or Asian serviceberry
Amelanchier australis
Amelanchier basalticola
Amelanchier bartramiana – mountain shadbush
Amelanchier canadensis – Canada serviceberry, shadblow serviceberry, bilberry, eastern shadbush, Indian pear
Amelanchier humilis – low shadbush
Amelanchier interior – Wiegand’s shadbush
Amelanchier intermedia
Amelanchier laevis – smooth shadbush, smooth serviceberry, Allegheny serviceberry
Amelanchier lamarckii – Juneberry
Amelanchier nantucketensis – Nantucket serviceberry
Amelanchier obovalis – Southern Juneberry, Coastal serviceberry
Amelanchier ovalis – snowy mespilus
Amelanchier pallida – pale serviceberry or western serviceberry
Amelanchier parviflora
Amelanchier sanguinea – red-twigged shadbush or roundleaf serviceberry
Amelanchier sinica – Chinese serviceberry
Amelanchier spicata – low juneberry, thicket shadbush, dwarf serviceberry, or low serviceberry
Amelanchier stolonifera – running serviceberry
Amelanchier utahensis – Utah serviceberry

Garden hybrids

Since classifications have varied greatly over the past century, species names are often used interchangeably in the nursery trade. Several natural or horticultural hybrids also exist, and many A. arborea and A. canadensis plants that are offered for sale are actually hybrids, or entirely different species. A. × grandiflora is another hybrid of garden origin, between A. arborea and A. laevis.

A taxon called Amelanchier lamarckii (or A. x lamarckii) is very widely cultivated and naturalized in Europe, where it was introduced in the 17th century. It is apomictic, breeding true from seed, and probably of hybrid origin, perhaps descending from a cross between A. laevis and either A. arborea or A. canadensis. While A. lamarckii is known to be of North American origin, probably from eastern Canada, it is not known to occur naturally in the wild in North America.

Etymology

The origin of the generic name Amelanchier is probably derived from amalenquièr, amelanchièr, the Provençal names of the European Amelanchier ovalis. The name serviceberry comes from the similarity of the fruit to the related European Sorbus.

A fanciful etymology explains the name ‘serviceberry’ by noting that the flowers bloom about the time roads in the Appalachian mountains became passable, allowing circuit-riding preachers to resume church services. A similar etymology says that blooming serviceberry indicated the ground had thawed enough to dig graves, so burial services could be held for those who died in the winter when the only way to deal with the bodies was to allow them to freeze and wait for spring. Both of these fanciful etymologies are unlikely to be correct since the term is attested for both English and New World species as early as the 16th century, well before settlement of English North America, and serviceberry is far from unique in blossoming early in the year.

Juneberry refers to the fruits of certain species becoming ripe in June. The name saskatoon originated from a Cree noun misâskwatômina (misāskwatōmina, misaaskwatoomina) for Amelanchier alnifolia. The city of Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, is named after this plant.

Shadberry refers to the shad runs in certain New England streams, which generally took place about when the trees bloomed.

Ecology

Amelanchier plants are preferred browse for deer and rabbits, and heavy browsing pressure can suppress natural regeneration.

Caterpillars of such Lepidoptera as brimstone moth, brown-tail, grey dagger, mottled umber, rough prominent, the satellite, winter moth, and the red-spotted purple and the white admiral (both Limenitis arthemis), as well as various other herbivorous insects feed on Amelanchier. Many insects and diseases that attack orchard trees also affect this genus, in particular trunk borers and Gymnosporangium rust. In years when late flowers of Amelanchier overlap those of wild roses and brambles, bees may spread bacterial fireblight.

Uses and cultivation

Fruit and leaves of Amelanchier ovalis
The fruit of several species are excellent to eat raw, sweetish, and strongly accented by the almond-like flavour of the seeds. Selections from Amelanchier alnifolia have been chosen for fruit production, with several named cultivars. Other cultivars appear to be derived from hybridization between A. alnifolia and A. stolonifera. Propagation is by seed, divisions, and grafting.

Serviceberries graft so readily that grafts onto other genera, such as Crataegus and Sorbus, are often successful. The fruit can be harvested for pies, muffins, jams, and wine. The saskatoon berry is harvested commercially. One version of the Native American food pemmican was flavored by serviceberry fruits in combination with minced dried meat and fat.

The wood is brown, hard, close-grained, and heavy. The heartwood is reddish-brown, and the sapwood is lighter in color. It can be used for tool handles and fishing rods. Native Americans used it for arrow shafts. Members of the Pit River Tribe would use the wood to create a sort of body armor, crafting it into a heavy robe or overcoat and corset armor worn during fighting.

Garden history

Several species are very popular ornamental shrubs, grown for their flowers, bark, and fall color. All need similar conditions to grow well, requiring good drainage, air circulation (to discourage leaf diseases), watering during drought, and soil appropriate for the species.

George Washington planted specimens of Amelanchier on the grounds of his estate, Mount Vernon, in Virginia.

Service berry Care

Successfully growing service berries requires carefully balancing several factors: heat, light, and fertilization. Plants that are over-fertilized and grown in warm conditions, but not given enough light, will stretch out looking for more. Plants that are given too much light without a corresponding increase in fertilizer and water will scorch. The right balance indoors likely means a bright corner, with plenty of water, and less fertilizer than you probably think.

Service berry has a reputation for being somewhat of a temperamental plant. Although service berrys are understory plants in their natural habitat, indoors it’s a good idea to provide as much light as possible. Plants that are stretching and bleached should be moved into a brighter spot for a few weeks, but don’t expose them to full sunlight.

Soil

These palms are acid-loving plants that do best with a pH level as low as 5.0, so don’t worry about a peat-based mixture acidifying and hurting your service berry. A standard potting mix, with some extra peat mixed in, is an ideal growing medium for service berrys1. These palms need good drainage to prevent water-logged roots.

Water

Keep the potting media evenly moist, but not waterlogged. Don’t let the plant’s soil get too dry between watering or you’ll start to lose lower leaves.

Temperature and Humidity

This plant will grow fairly well in temperatures between 65 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. It prefers high humidity but can survive in ordinary household humidity levels. In colder climates where winter air can get very dry; running a humidifier can make the plants happier. Misting the plant daily will also ensure it gets the humidity it craves. Low humidity levels can encourage insect pests.

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Service Berry Bush

Service Berry Bush

Service Berry Bush

What Is a Service berry Bush?

Service berry bushes (Amelanchier spp.), also called June berry or shad bush, are large deciduous ornamental bushes or small trees that vary in size and form depending on the species. Service berry varieties, which are native to North America, are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture zones 2 through 9. Gardeners plant them as border shrubs or specimen plants, or use them to attract wildlife. Servce berry bushes offer year-round ornamental appeal, as well as yielding an edible and flavorful berry that works well in jellies and pies.

Service berry Tree Identification

Most types of service berry bushes are multi-trunked. Their bark color varies from tan to pale gray; some varieties also have dark lines on their branches and trunks, and most have reddish-brown twigs that grow in a zigzag pattern.

The leaves vary In shape from oval to oblong depending upon the species, with finely serrated margins. Young servce berry leaves are purple or greenish-gray, but mature to medium or dark green. Native servce berry offers an attractive fall foliage display when its leaves change to orange, yellow or red, and the silvery bark adds to winter interest.

Flowers and Berries

Servce berry is one of the earliest bushes to produce flowers each year. Early in the spring, hairy, silvery flower buds emerge before the leaves. These buds remain closed for two to three weeks before opening into clusters of showy white blossoms. The petals usually only last between one day and one week, quickly falling from the tree as the foliage begins to appear.

Heavy clusters of small, round, green berries replace the blossoms. The green gives way to red, blue, purple or black as the fruits mature. Servce berry fruits vary in size between ¼ and 3/8 inches in diameter depending on the shrub variety.

Servce berry Varieties and Cultivars

Amelanchier alnifolia ‘Regent’ or regent servce berry is an early-flowering shrub that grows best in zones 2 through 7. Also called alder-leaved servce berry, it usually reaches heights of 4 to 6 feet with an approximately equal spread and yields rich purple berries, advises Missouri Botanical Garden. Amelanchier canadensis or shadblow servce berry shrub size is between 6 and 10 feet high and it produces sweet black berries.

This species is available in a number of cultivars including ‘Spring Glory,’ ‘Rainbow Pillar’ and ‘Tradition.’ Amelanchier arborea, or common servce berry, is a small tree or tall shrub that reaches heights of 15 to 25 feet, advises Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center Native Plant Database. Sometimes called the downy servce berry, a coating of soft hair covers its emerging leaves.

Cultivation and Potential Issues

Servce berry shrubs or trees grow best in partial shade. These hardy plants can tolerate a wide range of growing conditions, but they thrive in nutrient-rich, well-drained, moist acidic soil, with regular amounts of water. Serviceberries do not do well in soggy or poorly drained soil. They benefit from an occasional pruning after they have bloomed to remove dead or dying branches.
Several diseases such as fire blight and leaf spot occasionally infect servce berry plantings. Borer insects sometimes burrow into the wood and create tunnels below the bark, weakening the internal structure and killing limbs or entire plants. Heavy infestations of sap-feeding pests such as aphids and spider mites can speckle, yellow or distort the foliage.

Amelanchier arborea

Amelanchier arborea (downy servce berry or common servce berry), is native to eastern North America from the Gulf Coast north to Thunder Bay in Ontario and Lake St. John in Quebec, and west to Texas and Minnesota.

Scientific classifications

Kingdom: Plantae
Clade: Tracheophytes
Clade: Angiosperms
Clade: Eudicots
Clade: Rosids
Order: Rosales
Family: Rosaceae
Genus: Amelanchier
Species: A. Arborea
Binomial name Amelanchier arborea

Other common names are “shadberries” (as their blossoming coincides with the shad runs in New England), “Juneberries” (because the berries usually set on in June), and “Service” or “Sarvice” berries because their blooms mean that the muddy back roads into the “coves and hollers” of Appalachia will soon be passable for circuit-riding preachers and the communities will be able to have Sunday services again. (Some say, more morbidly, that it means the ground is soft enough to dig, which means that those who died over winter can be buried and have services said over them.)

Amelanchier arborea is generally 5–12 m (16–39 ft) tall. Occasionally, it can grow up to 20 metres (66 ft) tall and reach into the overstory. The trunk can be up to 15 cm (6 in) in diameter (rarely to 40 cm or 16 in). The bark is smooth and gray.

The buds are slender with a pointed tip, and usually more than two scales visible. The leaves are ovate or elliptical, 4–8 cm (1+1⁄2–3+1⁄4 in), rarely 10 cm (4 in), long and 2.5–4 cm (1–1+5⁄8 in) wide, with pointed tips and finely serrated margins. A characteristic useful for identification is that the young leaves emerge downy on the underside. The fall color is variable, from orange-yellow to pinkish or reddish.

Flower details

It has perfect flowers that are 15–25 mm (5⁄8–1 in) in diameter, with 5 petals, emerging during bud break in early spring. The petals are white. Flowers are produced on pendulous racemes 3–5 cm (1+1⁄4–2 in) long with 4–10 flowers on each raceme. The flowers are pollinated by bees.

The fruit is a reddish-purple pome, resembling a small apple in shape. They ripen in summer and are very popular with birds. The fruit is eaten by over 40 species of birds and various mammals, including squirrels, rabbits, chipmunks, mice, voles, foxes, black bears, deer, and elk.
It also commonly hybridizes with other species of Amelanchier, the hybrid Amelanchier × grandiflora being one example, and identification can be very difficult as a result.

Cultivation

This species tolerates varying light levels, but is at its best in full sun. It requires good drainage and air circulation and should be watered during drought. It is often confused with other species in the nursery trade. Propagation is by seed, divisions and grafting.
The edible fruit is drier than some other serviceberries, and it is harvested locally for pies and jams, and has been known to be used for wine; they were also used by Native Americans to make bread.

Some report that the sweetened juice tastes like Dr. Pepper and some nurseries sell them as “The Dr. Pepper Tree”, but the fruit is not used in the soft drink.

Service Berry Care

Successfully growing service berries requires carefully balancing several factors: heat, light, and fertilization. Plants that are over-fertilized and grown in warm conditions, but not given enough light, will stretch out looking for more. Plants that are given too much light without a corresponding increase in fertilizer and water will scorch. The right balance indoors likely means a bright corner, with plenty of water, and less fertilizer than you probably think.

Service berry has a reputation for being somewhat of a temperamental plant. Although service berrys are understory plants in their natural habitat, indoors it’s a good idea to provide as much light as possible. Plants that are stretching and bleached should be moved into a brighter spot for a few weeks, but don’t expose them to full sunlight.

Soil

These palms are acid-loving plants that do best with a pH level as low as 5.0, so don’t worry about a peat-based mixture acidifying and hurting your service berry. A standard potting mix, with some extra peat mixed in, is an ideal growing medium for service berrys1. These palms need good drainage to prevent water-logged roots.

Water

Keep the potting media evenly moist, but not waterlogged. Don’t let the plant’s soil get too dry between watering or you’ll start to lose lower leaves.

Temperature and Humidity

This plant will grow fairly well in temperatures between 65 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. It prefers high humidity but can survive in ordinary household humidity levels. In colder climates where winter air can get very dry; running a humidifier can make the plants happier. Misting the plant daily will also ensure it gets the humidity it craves. Low humidity levels can encourage insect pests.

Some of the Garden hybrids

Since classifications have varied greatly over the past century, species names are often used interchangeably in the nursery trade. Several natural or horticultural hybrids also exist, and many A. arborea and A. canadensis plants that are offered for sale are actually hybrids, or entirely different species. A. × grandiflora is another hybrid of garden origin, between A. arborea and A. laevis.

A taxon called Amelanchier lamarckii (or A. x lamarckii) is very widely cultivated and naturalized in Europe, where it was introduced in the 17th century. It is apomictic, breeding true from seed, and probably of hybrid origin, perhaps descending from a cross between A. laevis and either A. arborea or A. canadensis. While A. lamarckii is known to be of North American origin, probably from eastern Canada, it is not known to occur naturally in the wild in North America.

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Service Berry Tree

Service Berry Tree

Service Berry Tree

All of the reliable and credible scientific literature done on acai is related to the antioxidant capacity and the oil composition of the berry. Companies promoting acai as a weight loss aid purposely conceal the contents of their product. They claim to provide a product in pill form that is acai. They fail to reveal what % of that pill is acai and whether it is made from freeze-dried or spray-dried powder. Acai does not possess the capacity to drive, create or stimulate weight loss. It is considered a superfood based on its nutritional profile. A superfood does not mean that it supports weight loss. The product being sold by this company does not work because it cannot work based on their claims.

If you try contacting any of the companies selling the miracle Acai diet pills, you will most likely be connected to an answering service. When you ask the service if they had a way to contact the company directly, you will probably be told that they did not have access to any phone numbers except for the toll number listed on the website. If you ask what the name of the company was for whom they were providing this service you will mostly likely find the business names to be unregistered, in other words, the company is hiding. They fail to provide a physical address, a reliable phone number to a company headquarters nor are they searchable via Google or the state they do business in.

These companies all have the ear marks of organizations involved in scamming the public. There is no recourse. In their terms of service and privacy statements they are very clear about taking the customers private information with the intent to sell and resell. In addition to this they clearly state that they will use ‘cookies’ an internet term of describing the act of monitoring their customers’ internet use. Essentially they say that when you buy a product from them they are not only going to sell and resell all of your private information but they say that the purchase in effect creates a contract with the customer that allows the company to monitor and spy on their customers so that they may gain more private information to sell and resell.

Here Is what the Terms of Service on one of the websites actually states:

1.2 Third Party List Information

XXXX collects information from individuals when an individual provides information to a third party and XXXX subsequently purchases, licenses, or otherwise acquires the information from the third party (the “Seller”). Such purchased information may include, but is not limited to, an individual’s name, email address, street address, zip code, telephone numbers (including cell phone numbers and carriers), birth date, gender, salary range, credit card information, education and marital status, occupation, industry of employment, personal and online interests, and such other information as the individual may have provided to the Seller (together, “Third Party List Information”). When acquiring Third Party List Information, XXXX seeks assurances from the Seller that the Seller has a right to transfer the Third Party List Information to XXXX and that the Seller has a right to provide offers from advertisers to the individuals whose personal information is included on the Seller’s list.

In other words, it appears to be a phishing scam. Their terms of service allows them, by a “contract”, to use your personal information any way they wish! Phishing refers to the process of tricking you into giving up personal details such as your bank account or credit card details, or your passwords. Phishing is prevalent on the internet today and you must be very careful of this phenomenon and protect your personal information.

Always check the terms of service and privacy policies of an online store before you buy anything. A reputable store should have trust icons such Hacker Safe, McAfee Secure or BBBOnline which validates a companies’ physical address, phone number which should also be listed on their home page or in their “About Us” page. You can also use a free plugin for your browser by McAfee.com called SiteAdvisor to indicate if a website is safe while you are doing searches in Google, yahoo or msn. If a website hasn’t been validated, you will see a question mark, otherwise the site will have a green checkmark. Also, some sites have been flagged if they have been caught sending spam emails or using fraudulent schemes.

Don’t be discouraged – there are legitimate acai juice companies out there. Don’t let a few fly-by-night companies give you the impression that acai is an ineffective product. If acai is taken in its original juice form, (not reconstituted with water or in pill form), it is a great natural energy drink rich with anti-oxidants.

The Berry Tree – Get Company Selling For You

The top reason people failed in multilevel marketing is they cannot sell. Is this happening to you? Imagine how great to have the company building business for you. Now it is possible with The Berry Tree. Does it solve your number one problem in multilevel marketing? Let me explain.

The Berry Tree is a new division formed by International partnership. In March 2008, this company recorded over $4 Million dollars in gross sales. The company developed a system with passive member in mind. In this system, you do not have to sponsor or recruit or sell anything though The Berry Tree has amazing products. You cannot find other program that can make similar offer.

You probably want to know how this system works. Can I succeed with The Berry Tree? How much do I have to invest? What do I get for joining this system?

It is the most exciting and unique aspects of The Berry Tree. You can earn on every single person in the entire company with patent pending compensation plan. If you cannot sell or recruit, just stay with the company. The company is giving out credit known as Berry Member Credit (BMC) for every two consecutive months. You can accumulate all member credit unless you are inactive for more than 28 days after your auto ship date. By that time, you will lose all the credit.

Every month you are qualified in bonus pool when your credit plus your personally sponsored active members equals ten. Pool share is making up of $5 from each active member. You must qualify in this first level for the triple your money back guarantee. The Berry Tree has its own online and offline marketing campaigns to increase its bonus pool.

Another advantage with Berry Member Credit is it will keep growing until you reach to next level of qualification where you can get additional amount from the bonus pool. You can sit back and let the system works for you. Further, the company guarantees your success or triples your money back.

All you have to do is becoming a full member of The Berry Tree. The monthly membership fee is $49.95 and $6 is added for shipping and handling of O2 Berry product. This makes total $55.95 a month. The membership fee covers both O2 Berry product and corporate advertising. Full member will be eligible to earn commissions.

Now The Berry Tree is offering free trial. You just need to pay $4.95 for shipping and handling. You get your own marketing website, one corporate marketing website, O2 Berry product and access to training portal. You get the chance to explore this system before you decide to join as full member.

The company is help you to get ahead faster by offering a free member credit if you become full member with first seven days of joining The Berry Tree from free trial. The company guarantees your success but this trial offer is not guaranteed to last forever. Take this advantage to start earning. That is not all. Do you know that you can receive up to two times of your credit? This allows you to reach the bonus pool in half the time!

Acai Berry and Glutathione – Why These Antioxidants Are Good For Your Body!

With many doctors, experts, and reliable professionals continuing to endorse the use of antioxidants, more and more people are becoming interested in searching for significant sources of this magical substance and applying it in their daily diet.

Acai, also known as a super fruit, is a good source of antioxidants, which include vitamin C and E, and naturally occurring plant chemicals called phytochemicals. With all these healthy ingredients, you are prevented from massive cell damage caused by free radicals, thus, promoting health and wellness. It can be found in any form of supplements – smoothies, juice, or pill – all provide the same benefits, especially if it is all pure and natural.

Your body, on the other hand, also has its own antioxidant properties. Glutathione, a combination of three amino acids – cysteine, glutamate, and glycine – is found within every cell. Because it exists within the cells, it plays a vital role in nutrient metabolism and regulation of cellular events. The highest concentration is found in the liver that is involved in the detoxification and elimination of body’s toxic wastes.

These two are good for your body as these help fight the free radicals produced by unhealthy foods, pollution, radiation, and cigarette smoking, which can cause certain diseases and aging. Aside from that, these also provide health benefits such as greater stamina, improved mental focus, reduced cholesterol level, strengthened immune system, and healthy skin. Most importantly, they can prevent certain diseases and cancer.

Therefore, you have to have adequate amounts of antioxidants in your body. Acai berry is a healthy choice to boost your natural body’s glutathione. The good news is that, this magical substance can also be found in your daily dose of fruits and vegetables.
Now you want to have more energy, be Healthier, look Younger, lose weight, and cleanse your body, right?

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Tree Pruning

Tree Pruning

The main reasons for pruning ornamental and shade trees include safety, health, and aesthetics. In addition, pruning can be used to stimulate fruit production and increase the value of timber. Pruning for safety involves removing branches that could fall and cause injury or property damage, trimming branches that interfere with lines of sight on streets or driveways, and removing branches that grow into utility lines. Safety pruning can be largely avoided by carefully choosing species that will not grow beyond the space available to them, and have strength and form characteristics that are suited to the site.

Pruning for health involves removing diseased or insect-infested wood, thinning the crown to increase airflow and reduce some pest problems, and removing crossing and rubbing branches. Pruning can best be used to encourage trees to develop a strong structure and reduce the likelihood of damage during severe weather. Removing broken or damaged limbs encourage wound closure.

Pruning for aesthetics involves enhancing the natural form and character of trees or stimulating flower production. Pruning for form can be especially important on open grown trees that do very little self-pruning.

All woody plants shed branches in response to shading and competition. Branches that do not produce enough carbohydrates from photosynthesis to sustain themselves die and are eventually shed; the resulting wounds are sealed by woundwood (callus). Branches that are poorly attached may be broken off by wind and accumulation of snow and ice. Branches removed by such natural forces often result in large, ragged wounds that rarely seal. Pruning as a cultural practice can be used to supplement or replace these natural processes and increase the strength and longevity of plants.

Trees have many forms, but the most common types are pyramidal (excurrent) or spherical (decurrent). Trees with pyramidal crowns, e.g., most conifers, have a strong central stem and lateral branches that are more or less horizontal and do not compete with the central stem for dominance. Trees with spherical crowns, e.g., most hardwoods, have many lateral branches that may compete for dominance. To reduce the need for pruning it is best to consider a tree’s natural form. It is very difficult to impose an unnatural form on a tree without a commitment to constant maintenance.

Pollarding and topiary are extreme examples of pruning to create a desired, unnatural effect. Pollarding is the practice of pruning trees annually to remove all new growth. The following year, a profusion of new branches is produced at the ends of the branches. Topiary involves pruning trees and shrubs into geometric or animal shapes. Both pollarding and topiary are specialized applications that involve pruning to change the natural form of trees. As topiary demonstrates, given enough care and attention plants can be pruned into nearly any form. Yet just as proper pruning can enhance the form or character of plants, improper pruning can destroy it.

Pruning Approaches

Producing strong structure should be the emphasis when pruning young trees. As trees mature, the aim of pruning will shift to maintaining tree structure, form, health and appearance.

Proper pruning cuts are made at a node, the point at which one branch or twig attaches to another. In the spring of the year growth begins at buds, and twigs grow until a new node is formed. The length of a branch between nodes is called an internode.

Crown thinning – branches to be removed are shaded in blue; pruning cuts should be made at the red lines. No more than one-fourth of the living branches should be removed at one time.

The most common types of pruning are:

Crown thinning, primarily for hardwoods, is the selective removal of branches to increase light penetration and air movement throughout the crown of a tree. The intent is to maintain or develop a tree’s structure and form. To avoid unnecessary stress and prevent excessive production of epicormic sprouts, no more than one-quarter of the living crown should be removed at a time. If it is necessary to remove more, it should be done over successive years.

Types of branch unions

Branches with strong U-shaped angles of attachment should be retained. Branches with narrow, V-shaped angles of attachment often form included bark and should be removed. Included bark forms when two branches grow at sharply acute angles to one another, producing a wedge of inward-rolled bark between them. Included bark prevents strong attachment of branches, often causing a crack at the point below where the branches meet. Codominant stems that are approximately the same size and arise from the same position often form included bark. Removing some of the lateral branches from a codominant stem can reduce its growth enough to allow the other stem to become dominant.
Lateral branches should be no more than one half to three-quarters of the diameter of the stem at the point of attachment. Avoid producing “lion’s tails,” tufts of branches and foliage at the ends of branches, caused by removing all inner lateral branches and foliage. Lion’s tails can result in sunscalding, abundant epicormic sprouts, and weak branch structure and breakage.

Crown raising is the practice of removing branches from the bottom of the crown of a tree to provide clearance for pedestrians, vehicles, buildings, lines of site, or to develop a clear stem for timber production. Also, removing lower branches on white pines can prevent blister rust. For street trees the minimum clearance is often specified by municipal ordinance. After pruning, the ratio of the living crown to total tree height should be at least two-thirds.

On young trees “temporary” branches may be retained along the stem to encourage taper and protect trees from vandalism and sun scald. Less vigorous shoots should be selected as temporary branches and should be about 10 to 15 cm apart along the stem. They should be pruned annually to slow their growth and should be removed eventually.

Crown reduction pruning is most often used when a tree has grown too large for its permitted space. This method, sometimes called drop crotch pruning, is preferred to topping because it results in a more natural appearance, increases the time before pruning is needed again, and minimizes stress.

Crown reduction pruning, a method of last resort, often results in large pruning wounds to stems that may lead to decay. This method should never be used on a tree with a pyramidal growth form. A better long term solution is to remove the tree and replace it
Crown reduction – branches to be removed are shaded in blue; pruning cuts should be made where indicated with red lines. To prevent branch dieback, cuts should be made at lateral branches that are at least one-third the diameter of the stem at their union.

Pruning Cuts

Pruning cuts should be made so that only branch tissue is removed and stem tissue is not damaged. At the point where the branch attaches to the stem, branch and stem tissues remain separate, but are contiguous. If only branch tissues are cut when pruning, the stem tissues of the tree will probably not become decayed, and the wound will seal more effectively.

1. Pruning living branches
To find the proper place to cut a branch, look for the branch collar that grows from the stem tissue at the underside of the base of the branch. On the upper surface, there is usually a branch bark ridge that runs (more or less) parallel to the branch angle, along the stem of the tree. A proper pruning cut does not damage either the branch bark ridge or the branch collar.

A proper cut begins just outside the branch bark ridge and angles down away from the stem of the tree, avoiding injury to the branch collar. Make the cut as close as possible to the stem in the branch axil, but outside the branch bark ridge, so that stem tissue is not injured and the wound can seal in the shortest time possible. If the cut is too far from the stem, leaving a branch stub, the branch tissue usually dies and wound wood forms from the stem tissue. Wound closure is delayed because the wound wood must seal over the stub that was left.

The quality of pruning cuts can be evaluated by examining pruning wounds after one growing season. A concentric ring of wound wood will form from proper pruning cuts. Flush cuts made inside the branch bark ridge or branch collar, result in pronounced development of wound wood on the sides of the pruning wounds with very little wound wood forming on the top or bottom. As described above, stub cuts result in the death of the remaining branch and wound wood forms around the base from stem tissues. When pruning small branches with hand pruners, make sure the tools are sharp enough branch collar. This cut will prevent a falling branch from tearing the stem tissue as it pulls away from the tree.

1. The second cut should be outside the first cut, all the way through the branch, leaving a short stub.
2. The stub is then cut just outside the branch bark ridge/branch collar, completing the operation.

2. Pruning dead branches

Prune dead branches in much the same way as live branches. Making the correct cut is usually easy because the branch collar and the branch bark ridge, can be distinguished from the dead branch, because they continue to grow (Fig. 6A). Make the pruning cut just outside of the ring of woundwood tissue that has formed, being careful not to cause unnecessary injury (Fig. 6C). Large dead branches should be supported with one hand or cut with the threestep method, just as live branches. Cutting large living branches with the three step method is more critical because of the greater likelihood of bark ripping.

3. Drop Crotch Cuts
A proper cut begins just above the branch bark ridge and extends through the stem parallel to the branch bark ridge. Usually, the stem being removed is too large to be supported with one hand, so the three cut method should be used.

1. With the first cut, make a notch on the side of the stem away from the branch to be retained, well above the branch crotch.
2. Begin the second cut inside the branch crotch, staying well above the branch bark ridge, and cut through the stem above the notch.
3. Cut the remaining stub just inside the branch bark ridge through the stem parallel to the branch bark ridge.
To prevent the abundant growth of epicormics sprouts on the stem below the cut, or dieback of the stem to a lower lateral branch, make the cut at a lateral branch that is at least one-third of the diameter of the stem at their union.

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Apple Trees Pruning

Apple Trees Pruning

Apple Trees Pruning

When an apple tree becomes too big for a section or is in danger of falling because of disease or age, tree pruning or tree removal may be your only option. As tree pruning and arboriculture experts, the tree trimming crews have everything you need to get the job done and offer both a one off service or ongoing maintenance programs, as required.

Tree Pruning

Whether your objective is to promote tree growth or better fruit production, or to improve your view and let more sunlight in, our tree trimming crews are qualified and experienced to do the job.

Pruning a tree in a confined residential section can require a great deal of skill. Key considerations need to be given to avoid damage to surrounding buildings, water pipes, power lines and existing vegetation.

Using modern climbing techniques, our arborists can access trouble spots in the tree canopy and remove only necessary branches, without damaging any surrounding branches. Crown reductions and pruning to improve structural integrity are part of our everyday work.

In particularly confined spaces, limbs can be lowered down in small sections using specialized roping techniques, cranes, cherry pickers and even helicopters for more complicated sites.

Hedge Trimming: The hedge trimming service caters for hedges of all heights and sizes. With the right equipment for removal of hedges, we make light work of all shapes and sizes of hedge trimming.

Green Asset Management: Managing your green assets on an ongoing basis is the smartest and most economical way to maximize tree health and vitality.

Pruning around a Power line

Trees that grow too high may stretch towards electrical cables and cause problems. Tree branches can also obstruct views. In short, tree removal is needed when these situations occur. Homeowners may be compelled to take away trees to make way for a particular construction project. You have the option to cut down unwanted trees provided you have the expertise and equipment. Otherwise, get the services of professional tree removal services. These companies will give the service you like for a minimal cost.

The process of cutting trees is a complicated task. It has to be carried out by professionals who can cut down trees without destroying any structures. The task is more dangerous if the trees stand near electrical posts and wires. Trees located near edifices and fences are not easy to remove while those located in open spaces are easier to remove. Costs depend on the tallness, thickness, form and quantity of branches.

Expert cutters know how to take care of cutting timber. These service providers do not simply cut a tree without a plan. Measurements have to be taken at the start so that the falling log does not hit any person, house, vehicle or electric post and wires. Trees should be cut at the correct angle so it goes down on the proper direction.

Stump removal is also difficult. It calls for the work of experts to avoid damages. Tree cutting services know how to operate complicated gear such as cranes, special ladders and ropes. These people also consider the safety factor and disease control aspects so you can be assured of a complete service even if you have to spend some money.

Tackling the job yourself can be very dangerous, and specialist equipment is needed to avoid electrocution. The expertise, equipment and procedures (including significant public liability insurance cover) to maintain the electrical network from any possible interruptions is essential and needed when dealing with trees (apple tree) around a power line.

A crew is employed by a number of major power networks across the country to scope and audit power networks, and to carry out line clearing.

How to Prune Apple Trees

New to pruning? Then we will cover all you need to know about how to prune apple trees, including why, when, which, with what, and how in eight easy steps.

Why to Prune Apple Trees

We prune apple trees for four main reasons.

First, to make the tree easy to maintain and harvest by controlling the height and shape.

Secondly, to maintain a healthy tree by removing dead, diseased or damaged wood.

Thirdly, to improve air circulation which reduces pests and diseases.

Fourthly, to let sunlight reach the fruits so they can grow healthy and large.

When to Prune Apple Trees

It is best to prune an apple tree when it’s still dormant, this means early spring, about two weeks after the late frost. Not only are the buds easier to see and cut, but the cuts will also heal more quickly.

If you prune in the fall, then new growth will start but will be damaged by the cold winter. If you prune in the early winter, then the open cut can be susceptible to diseases.

If you see dead, diseased, or damaged, wood, you should cut these off as soon as you notice, no matter the time in the year so that the tree isn’t damaged any further.

Which Apple Trees to Prune

Wait to do the heavy pruning in the third year of growth after planting since this will allow the tree to establish itself. If your apple tree provides a lot of shade, then it needs to be pruned.

When there is a lot of pruning to do, then space out the pruning over several seasons.

What to Prune Apple Trees With

The tools to use depends on which type of branch you are cutting. In all cases though, be sure to sterilize the tools with hot soapy water or disinfectant to prevent any damage or infection.

For small branches and twigs, use hand pruners
.
For large branches about 1” thick, use loppers. These provide good leverage.

For branches about 3” thick and more, use a saw.

How to Prune Apple Trees

Step 0: Aim for a Central Leader, Pyramidal Form

Apple trees should have a pyramidal and conical shape, with shorter branches at the top so that they can allow sunlight to reach the lower branches.

Additionally, apple trees should be pruned with a central leader form, with one central branch growing vertically from the trunk.

Step 1: Remove Any Dead, Diseased, or Damaged Limbs (3 D’s)

You know if a branch is dead if it’s brittle and breaks very easily.

You usually know if a branch is diseased if the wood is a different color than the other branches around it.

You will see a damaged branch when it has partially broken from the weight of the fruits. Additionally, when two branches have crossed and rubbed against one another this can also damage the wood.

Once you have identified the branches with the 3 D’s, then cut the wood back to the nearest bud where the wood is still healthy.

Step 2: Prune Competing Central Leader Branches

Your apple tree should have one central leading branch which grows vertically from the trunk.

If there are multiple central leading branches, then choose the healthier and stronger one and cut the rest so that the tree remains strong.

Step 3: Prune Non-Primary Scaffold Branches

Your apple tree should have 2-6 primary scaffold branches (depending on the size of the tree) which connect to the central lead branch and are evenly spaced around it.

If two scaffold branches are too close to one another, remove one.

If you look at the tree from the top, it should look like a star.

These scaffold branches should have a 45 to 50 degree angle from the trunk.

When the angle is less than this, then the branch will fall from the weight of the fruit.

When the angle is more than this, then there won’t be as much fruit on the branches.

Step 4: Prune Suckers

When shoots or branches grow near the base of the trunk prune them so that the shape is preserved. Suckers shouldn’t grow below the canopy of the tree.

Step 5: Prune Downward & Inward Growing Branches

First, identify the branches growing downward. Then prune them since they won’t be able to bear the weight of the fruit.
Also prune any branches growing inward so that they don’t rub against other branches.

Step 6: Prune the Whorls

Whorls are places where three or more small branches grow from the same location. Once you identify the whorls then choose the healthier and strongest one, and prune the rest. After all, the branch won’t be able to support all of the small branches growing in this one location.

Step 7: Prune Back All Branches

In order for the stems to become thicker and develop flowers cut all branches back by ⅓ of its original length. However, make sure to make these cuts just above a bud that faces outward in order for the tree to have a healthy shape.

Step 8: Thin the Buds

Lastly, thin out the fruiting buds so that they are 4-6” apart. This will ensure that the branch bears just enough weight from the apples.
And voila! You are done! If you have any questions, we are here to help!

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