BEST PRACTICES FOR MANAGING TREE BRANCHES NEAR FENCES

Managing tree branches near fences requires careful planning and regular maintenance to ensure safety, prevent damage to the fence, and maintain the health of the trees. Here are some best practices for managing tree branches near fences:

Regular Inspections: Conduct regular inspections of trees near fences to identify any overhanging or potentially hazardous branches. Inspect for signs of decay, disease, or weak attachment points that could increase the risk of branch failure.
Pruning: Prune tree branches that overhang or come in close proximity to the fence. Proper pruning techniques include making clean cuts just outside the branch collar to minimize damage and promote healthy wound closure. Remove dead, diseased, or crossing branches to improve tree structure and reduce the risk of branch failure.
Maintain Clearance: Ensure there is adequate clearance between tree branches and the fence. Trim branches that are too close to the fence to prevent them from rubbing against or damaging the fence structure. The recommended clearance distance may vary depending on the tree species and type of fence.
Professional Tree Care: For larger or more complex tree pruning near fences, it is advisable to seek the assistance of professional arborists. They have the expertise and equipment necessary to safely and effectively prune trees, especially those in close proximity to structures like fences.
Selective Tree Planting: When planting new trees near fences, consider the potential size and growth habit of the tree. Choose tree species that are not prone to excessive branch growth or have a spreading canopy that may encroach on the fence. Plant trees at an appropriate distance from the fence to allow for future growth without causing interference or damage.
Install Tree Guards: For young or vulnerable trees near fences, install tree guards or barriers to protect them from contact with the fence. Tree guards can prevent rubbing, abrasion, or other damage that can occur from branches rubbing against the fence.
Monitor Tree Health: Regularly monitor the health of trees near fences. Look for signs of stress, disease, or pest infestations that could affect branch stability. Address any tree health issues promptly to minimize the risk of branch failure.
Consider Tree Removal if Necessary: If a tree near a fence poses a significant risk or is causing extensive damage to the fence, consider the possibility of tree removal. Consult with a professional arborist to assess the situation and determine the best course of action.

Remember, safety should always be the top priority when managing tree branches near fences. If you are unsure or uncomfortable with pruning or managing tree branches

Regular inspections of trees near fences are essential for identifying potential risks, maintaining the health of the trees, and ensuring the safety and integrity of the fence. Here are some key considerations and steps to follow for conducting regular inspections:

Frequency of Inspections: Schedule inspections at regular intervals throughout the year, focusing on seasons when tree growth and weather conditions may have the greatest impact on branch growth and stability. Aim for at least an annual inspection, but consider more frequent inspections during periods of active growth or after severe weather events.
Visual Assessment: Conduct a visual assessment of the trees near the fence. Look for signs of decay, disease, or damage, such as cracks, cavities, fungal growth, or dead branches. Observe the overall health and vigor of the tree, including the foliage, bark condition, and any signs of pest infestation.
Inspect Branch Structure: Examine the branch structure of the tree, paying attention to branches that extend over or near the fence. Look for branches with weak attachment points, crossing or rubbing branches, or branches that appear to be under stress. Assess the size, weight, and proximity of branches to the fence.
Assess Risk and Potential Hazards: Evaluate the potential risks and hazards associated with the tree’s branches near the fence. Consider factors such as the size of the branches, their proximity to the fence, the condition of the tree and branches, and the potential impact if a branch were to fail or fall. Assess the potential risks to people, property, and the fence itself.
Pruning Needs: Determine if any pruning is necessary to address potential risks or maintain healthy tree growth. Identify branches that need to be pruned, such as dead, diseased, or crossing branches, as well as branches that pose a risk to the fence. Make note of the pruning requirements and plan for appropriate actions.
Document Findings: Maintain a record of the inspection findings, including any identified issues, recommended actions, and dates of inspection. This documentation will serve as a reference for future inspections and help track the progress of tree management.
Professional Arborist Consultation: If you are uncertain about the health or structural stability of the tree or if significant pruning is required, consider consulting with a professional arborist. They have the expertise to assess tree health, determine the best pruning strategies, and provide guidance on managing trees near fences safely and effectively.
Follow-Up Actions: Based on the inspection findings, take appropriate actions to address any identified issues. This may include pruning branches, implementing structural support measures, or considering the removal of hazardous trees if necessary.

Regular inspections of trees near fences allow for early detection of potential risks and facilitate timely management and maintenance. By prioritizing these inspections, property owners can ensure the safety of their surroundings, preserve the health of the trees, and maintain the integrity of the fence.

Tree Management

There are certain management techniques which are applied to trees and shrubs in agroforestry systems. Some of these techniques are similar to those used in the management of trees in forestry plantations, but others are different. The most important management techniques with regard to the part of the tree which is above ground are:

Pruning
Lopping
Pollarding
Coppicing
Thinning.

In addition, root competition can be reduced by certain management techniques applied to tree roots.

Pruning

Removal of branches from the lower part of the tree crown is known as pruning or side pruning. While pruning a tree, branches are always cut near the stem.

The objectives of pruning in agroforestry are threefold:

Reduction of shade for crops near the tree
Improving the quality of the trunk, mainly for timber and poles
Early harvest of branch wood for fuel or other use.

Too much pruning may reduce the growth of certain species. For young trees, at least four or five layers of the green branches should remain uncut, while older trees of certain species can tolerate more severe pruning.

Pruning should be done at least up to the height the adjacent crops if trees are growing in fields. Such pruning facilitates farming operations and reduces competition. The best time for pruning is towards the end of the dry season when the work will not interfere with growing crops and when the workload in other agriculture tasks is not so heavy.

Lopping

Lopping is distinguished from pruning in that branches are not cut from the base. Also lopping is not always done starting from the lower part of the tree but can be more haphazard. If any selection of branches is made, the main criterion is often a good green leafy biomass since the lopping is usually done to obtain branches for fodder.

Lopping is the most common harvesting technique for tree fodder in many ASAL areas. One of the main advantages with this technique is that it allows harvest without killing the tree. All tree species can be lopped, but the growth rate of certain species can be retarded if they are heavily lopped.

Pollarding

If all the branches and the top part of a tree are cut off this is known as pollarding. There can be several objectives with pollarding:

Early harvest of wood, fodder or other biomass
Production of wood or fodder that is out of the reach of livestock, hence there is no need for protection from browsing
Reduction of shade for crops near by
Regeneration of the tree crown to promote growth of the trunk for timber or poles.

The choice of pollarding height and frequency depends on the desired products. If the main aim is production of timber or poles, the top of the tree should be cut as high up as possible, and the pollarding interval should be such that the crown is kept as green and vigorous as possible for the maximum production of trunk wood. An interval of 2-5 years is appropriate in such cases.

On the other hand, if the main aim is production of fuel wood or fodder, it is better to pollard lower down the tree to facilitate access. Pollarding can then be done more frequently, e.g. once a year. It is advantageous to try to form a wide “stool” (the part of the tree remaining at the base when it has been cut) in order to achieve a substantial production of biomass.

Sometimes the main aim is to produce staking material, poles or fito for construction. In such situations a wide stool will allow many stems to grow. Initially too dense a stand may sprout after pollarding, and thinning is then recommended, leaving a suitable number of branches in relation to the size of the stems eventually desired.

Not all species can withstand pollarding. Some commonly pollarded species are:

Balanites spp.
Bridelia micrantha
Casuarina spp.
Cordia abyssinica
Croton spp.
Erythrina abyssinica
Faidherbia (Acacia) albida
Ficus sycomorus
Grevillea robusta
Jacaranda mimosifolia
Manihot glaziovii
Markhamia lutea
Morus alba.

Coppicing

Many species of trees and shrubs have the ability to resprout after the whole tree has been cut. If this ability is utilized for regeneration of the tree the practice is known as coppicing. Coppicing can almost be regarded as a method of tree propagation since it can substitute for the task of planting a new tree after a mature one is felled.

Systematic coppicing is applied as the management technique in alley cropping, and it may be an option for trees on soil-conservation structures. In such a situation coppicing may be done annually, but in other situations, e.g. regeneration of Eucalyptus for pole production, it may be much less frequent. In that case, an interval of 6-8 years may be more suitable.

Not all tree species will coppice after being cut. Some commonly coppiced species are:

Calliandra calothyrsus
Cassia siamea
Cassia spectabilis
Eucalyptus spp.
Leucaena leucocephala
Markhamia lutea.

Certain species coppice well when young but may not do so if cut at maturity. Examples are Casuarina spp., Crevillea robusta, Sesbania sesban and some Albizia spp.

Thinning

Trees established by direct seeding or that have been planted with little space between them will soon start to compete with each other. A dense stand initially promotes straight growth and small branches, but later the trees must be thinned otherwise they will grow too slender and eventually not reach the desired size. Thinning is particularly important for trees grown in woodlots, but applies also to other situations where trees are growing close to each other. Thinning can, for example, be done by removing every second tree or two out of every three trees. Thinning is also a way of obtaining some early harvest.

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Tree Pruning Near Me

The main reasons for pruning ornamental and shade trees include safety, health, and aesthetics. In addition, pruning can be used to stimulate fruit production and increase the value of timber. Pruning for safety involves removing branches that could fall and cause injury or property damage, trimming branches that interfere with lines of sight on streets or driveways, and removing branches that grow into utility lines. Safety pruning can be largely avoided by carefully choosing species that will not grow beyond the space available to them, and have strength and form characteristics that are suited to the site.

Pruning for health involves removing diseased or insect-infested wood, thinning the crown to increase airflow and reduce some pest problems, and removing crossing and rubbing branches. Pruning can best be used to encourage trees to develop a strong structure and reduce the likelihood of damage during severe weather. Removing broken or damaged limbs encourage wound closure.

Pruning for aesthetics involves enhancing the natural form and character of trees or stimulating flower production. Pruning for form can be especially important on open grown trees that do very little self-pruning.

All woody plants shed branches in response to shading and competition. Branches that do not produce enough carbohydrates from photosynthesis to sustain themselves die and are eventually shed; the resulting wounds are sealed by wound wood (callus). Branches that are poorly attached may be broken off by wind and accumulation of snow and ice. Branches removed by such natural forces often result in large, ragged wounds that rarely seal. Pruning as a cultural practice can be used to supplement or replace these natural processes and increase the strength and longevity of plants.

Trees have many forms, but the most common types are pyramidal (excurrent) or spherical (decurrent). Trees with pyramidal crowns, e.g., most conifers, have a strong central stem and lateral branches that are more or less horizontal and do not compete with the central stem for dominance. Trees with spherical crowns, e.g., most hardwoods, have many lateral branches that may compete for dominance. To reduce the need for pruning it is best to consider a tree’s natural form. It is very difficult to impose an unnatural form on a tree without a commitment to constant maintenance.

Pollarding and topiary are extreme examples of pruning to create a desired, unnatural effect. Pollarding is the practice of pruning trees annually to remove all new growth. The following year, a profusion of new branches is produced at the ends of the branches. Topiary involves pruning trees and shrubs into geometric or animal shapes. Both pollarding and topiary are specialized applications that involve pruning to change the natural form of trees. As topiary demonstrates, given enough care and attention plants can be pruned into nearly any form. Yet just as proper pruning can enhance the form or character of plants, improper pruning can destroy it.

Pruning Approaches
Producing strong structure should be the emphasis when pruning young trees. As trees mature, the aim of pruning will shift to maintaining tree structure, form, health and appearance.
Proper pruning cuts are made at a node, the point at which one branch or twig attaches to another. In the spring of the year growth begins at buds, and twigs grow until a new node is formed. The length of a branch between nodes is called an internode.
Crown thinning – branches to be removed are shaded in blue; pruning cuts should be made at the red lines. No more than one-fourth of the living branches should be removed at one time.
The most common types of pruning are:
Crown thinning, primarily for hardwoods, is the selective removal of branches to increase light penetration and air movement throughout the crown of a tree. The intent is to maintain or develop a tree’s structure and form. To avoid unnecessary stress and prevent excessive production of epicormic sprouts, no more than one-quarter of the living crown should be removed at a time. If it is necessary to remove more, it should be done over successive years.
Types of branch unions.
Branches with strong U-shaped angles of attachment should be retained. Branches with narrow, V-shaped angles of attachment often form included bark and should be removed. Included bark forms when two branches grow at sharply acute angles to one another, producing a wedge of inward-rolled bark between them. Included bark prevents strong attachment of branches, often causing a crack at the point below where the branches meet. Codominant stems that are approximately the same size and arise from the same position often form included bark. Removing some of the lateral branches from a codominant stem can reduce its growth enough to allow the other stem to become dominant.
Lateral branches should be no more than one half to three-quarters of the diameter of the stem at the point of attachment. Avoid producing “lion’s tails,” tufts of branches and foliage at the ends of branches, caused by removing all inner lateral branches and foliage. Lion’s tails can result in sunscalding, abundant epicormic sprouts, and weak branch structure and breakage.
Crown raising is the practice of removing branches from the bottom of the crown of a tree to provide clearance for pedestrians, vehicles, buildings, lines of site, or to develop a clear stem for timber production. Also, removing lower branches on white pines can prevent blister rust. For street trees the minimum clearance is often specified by municipal ordinance. After pruning, the ratio of the living crown to total tree height should be at least two-thirds.
On young trees “temporary” branches may be retained along the stem to encourage taper and protect trees from vandalism and sun scald. Less vigorous shoots should be selected as temporary branches and should be about 10 to 15 cm apart along the stem. They should be pruned annually to slow their growth and should be removed eventually.
Crown reduction pruning is most often used when a tree has grown too large for its permitted space. This method, sometimes called drop crotch pruning, is preferred to topping because it results in a more natural appearance, increases the time before pruning is needed again, and minimizes stress.
Crown reduction pruning, a method of last resort, often results in large pruning wounds to stems that may lead to decay. This method should never be used on a tree with a pyramidal growth form. A better long term solution is to remove the tree and replace it
Crown reduction – branches to be removed are shaded in blue; pruning cuts should be made where indicated with red lines. To prevent branch dieback, cuts should be made at lateral branches that are at least one-third the diameter of the stem at their union.

Pruning Cuts
Pruning cuts should be made so that only branch tissue is removed and stem tissue is not damaged. At the point where the branch attaches to the stem, branch and stem tissues remain separate, but are contiguous. If only branch tissues are cut when pruning, the stem tissues of the tree will probably not become decayed, and the wound will seal more effectively.
1. Pruning living branches
To find the proper place to cut a branch, look for the branch collar that grows from the stem tissue at the underside of the base of the branch. On the upper surface, there is usually a branch bark ridge that runs (more or less) parallel to the branch angle, along the stem of the tree. A proper pruning cut does not damage either the branch bark ridge or the branch collar.
A proper cut begins just outside the branch bark ridge and angles down away from the stem of the tree, avoiding injury to the branch collar. Make the cut as close as possible to the stem in the branch axil, but outside the branch bark ridge, so that stem tissue is not injured and the wound can seal in the shortest time possible. If the cut is too far from the stem, leaving a branch stub, the branch tissue usually dies and wound wood forms from the stem tissue. Wound closure is delayed because the wound wood must seal over the stub that was left.
The quality of pruning cuts can be evaluated by examining pruning wounds after one growing season. A concentric ring of wound wood will form from proper pruning cuts. Flush cuts made inside the branch bark ridge or branch collar, result in pronounced development of wound wood on the sides of the pruning wounds with very little wound wood forming on the top or bottom. As described above, stub cuts result in the death of the remaining branch and wound wood forms around the base from stem tissues. When pruning small branches with hand pruners, make sure the tools are sharp enough branch collar. This cut will prevent a falling branch from tearing the stem tissue as it pulls away from the tree.
1. The second cut should be outside the first cut, all the way through the branch, leaving a short stub.
2. The stub is then cut just outside the branch bark ridge/branch collar, completing the operation.

2. Pruning dead branches
Prune dead branches in much the same way as live branches. Making the correct cut is usually easy because the branch collar and the branch bark ridge, can be distinguished from the dead branch, because they continue to grow (Fig. 6A). Make the pruning cut just outside of the ring of woundwood tissue that has formed, being careful not to cause unnecessary injury (Fig. 6C). Large dead branches should be supported with one hand or cut with the threestep method, just as live branches. Cutting large living branches with the three step method is more critical because of the greater likelihood of bark ripping.
3. Drop Crotch Cuts
A proper cut begins just above the branch bark ridge and extends through the stem parallel to the branch bark ridge. Usually, the stem being removed is too large to be supported with one hand, so the three cut method should be used.
1. With the first cut, make a notch on the side of the stem away from the branch to be retained, well above the branch crotch.
2. Begin the second cut inside the branch crotch, staying well above the branch bark ridge, and cut through the stem above the notch.
3. Cut the remaining stub just inside the branch bark ridge through the stem parallel to the branch bark ridge.
To prevent the abundant growth of epicormics sprouts on the stem below the cut, or dieback of the stem to a lower lateral branch, make the cut at a lateral branch that is at least one-third of the diameter of the stem at their union.

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Tree Cutting Services

A feller buncher is a type of harvester used in logging. It is a motorized vehicle with an attachment that ca

n rapidly gather and cut a tree before felling it.

Feller is a traditional name for someone who cuts down trees, and bunching is the skidding and assembly of two or more trees. A feller buncher performs both of these harvesting functions and consists of a standard heavy equipment base with a tree-grabbing device furnished with a chain-saw, circular saw or a shear—a pinching device designed to cut small trees off at the base. The machine then places the cut tree on a stack suitable for a skidder, forwarder, or yarder for transport to further processing such as delimbing, bucking, loading, or chipping.

Some wheeled feller bunchers lack an articulated arm, and must drive close to a tree to grasp it.

In cut-to-length logging a harvester performs the tasks of a feller buncher and additionally does delimbing and bucking.

Components and Felling attachment

Feller buncher is either tracked or wheeled and has self-levelling cabin and matches with different felling heads. For steep terrain, tracked feller buncher is being used because it provides high level of traction to the steep slope and also has high level of stability. For flat terrain, wheeled feller buncher is more efficient compared to tracked feller buncher. It is common that levelling cabins are matched with both wheeled and tracked feller buncher for steep terrain as it provides operator comfort and helps keeping the standard of tree felling production. The size and type of trees determine which type of felling heads being used.

Types of felling heads

Shear Blade Head – It is placed against the tree and the clamp arms will hold the tree firmly. Then, the blade will activate and start cutting the tree. Same as disc saw head, it can hold multiple trees before they are placed on the ground.

Chain Saw Head – The floppy head provides minimal control to place the trees on the ground. It might not suit to collect the cut trees or gather the cut stems in the felling head.

Productivity

Comparing other harvesting systems such as chainsaw and harvester, feller buncher has the relatively high productivity among them. The weekly production of the feller buncher was 627 cubic meters of usable logs, while the chainsaw system and harvester system could produce 163 cubic meters and 239 cubic meters respectively. There are several factors affecting the level of productivity of the feller buncher. They include characteristics of stand, terrain conditions, operation location, and the performance of the operator. Many studies indicated that the trees size and the gradient of the slope are the major factors impacting the overall productivity. There was a research suggested that productivity has a significant positive relationship with the tree size which means the larger stem size, larger tree height or larger diameter at breast height (DBH) results in a high productivity of the feller buncher. Terrain conditions such as ground slope and terrain roughness have a significant negative relationship to the productivity of feller buncher which means the steeper of the land or rough terrain condition can bring negative effect to the productivity. One of the studies had found that feller buncher might reduce its productivity when performing operation on a very uneven surface with slopes of more than 20%. However, larger tree size does not necessarily lead to high productivity. The same study compared the operation time when performing clear-cut of the stands with two different average DBH, 24.6 cm and 34.3 cm respectively. Result showed that the productivity when operating the second stand decreased by 32.3% because the time consumption was doubled when larger stands required two-stage of cutting operation.

Cost-effectiveness

The purchase cost of a feller buncher is around $180,000 and its fuel consumption and lubricant consumption is high among other mechanical harvesting equipment. The feller buncher also has the highest hourly cost which is around $99.5 when comparing other equipment such as a harvesters and grapple skidders. Although the total cost of feller buncher is high in overall, the unit production price is the lowest which explains why feller buncher is considered the most cost-effective harvesting equipment. The average unit cost of the feller buncher is $12.1/m3 while the unit cost of the harvesters is $16.5/m3. The unit cost of the feller buncher is primary affected by the tree size and the tree volume. The unit felling cost is lower when the tree size increased. For example, tree with 5 inches at DBH has the unit cost of $70 while tree with 15 inches at DBH has the unit cost of $12. As the cost of feller buncher is high, only large tree volume can produce more profit to cover the high average cost. In terms of stump height, lower stump height can maximise the use of natural resources and prevent wood waste. Mechanical felling such as using feller buncher can prevent 30% of value loss caused by the high stumps.

Maintenance

Feller buncher requires daily maintenance before operation and some components only require periodic maintenance. It could ensure the safety of operators and all the workers around the operation. If damaged or faulty machine is operated, it could result in further damage to the machine which can be more expensive to repair.

Daily or Every 8 hours

Modern style Tigercat feller buncher. Commonly referred to as a tree cutter

Lubrication

The felling head is considered one of the hardest part of the feller buncher and it is necessary to apply lubricant to every joint for daily maintenance. It is suggested to apply lubricant to saw head clamps, wrist attachment and driveshaft bearings during every maintenance. The use of grease should meet the extreme pressure performance standard and contains 3% of molybdenum disulphide (MoS2).

MoS2 can prevent the wear takes place where the metal to metal contact exists.

Fuel

It is also important to check if there is enough fuel for the operation. Feller bunchers use diesel fuel to generate power. In most of the cases, the fuel is preferably to have cetane number greater than 50 (minimum 40). This is suitable when undergo operation for temperature below -20 °C (-4 °F) or elevations more than 1500m (5000 Ft.). The Cloud Point of the fuel is preferably at least 5 °C (9 °F) lower than the expected low temperature. It is also suggested that the sulphur content of the fuel should not be more than 0.5% as it could reduce 50% of the service interval for the engine oil and filter.

Older style felling head that uses a bar and chain to cut trees instead of the more modern saw disk.

Engine coolant

Operators have the responsibility to check the engine coolant level of the feller buncher before starting the engine. The coolant prevents cylinder linear erosion and pitting, and provides protection during extremely low temperature for up to -37 °C (-34 °F). It is recommended to use coolants for heavy-duty engines which are relatively low silicate ethylene glycol base. There are two forms of coolants: pre-diluted or concentrate. Water is required to dilute the concentrated coolant with an approximate ratio of 50:50. The use of supplemental coolant addictive might be also required in the concentrated coolant in order to provide protection against corrosion. Distilled, deionised, or demineralised water is suggested for mixing the concentrated coolant because when some water compositions mix with other substances could form a precipitate, causing damage or blockage in the engine.

Risk management approach

During maintenance, there are common working hazards related to two main areas: working environment and exhaust system. When working on the exhaust system, be aware of the hot components around the engine. Workers could wear personal protective equipment such as safety spectacles, heat-proof gloves and safety boots. When feller buncher is elevated for service or maintenance, falls from height might happen. Related injuries could be avoided by ensuring dryness of all the walking surface, wiping any oils or other liquid substances on the floor. Also, ensure the feller buncher is parked on a level and stable ground during maintenance. When getting in and out of the machinery, workers are suggested to use three point of contact with two hands holding the handrails and one foot on a step. It is also important to provide sufficient lighting for all the working sites at all time of service.

Safety

Logging is considered one of the most dangerous occupations. This is because many loggers are injured by the falling objects which are large in size and heavy. “Struck by object” is the most common injuries that reported in the logging industry due to the manual use of equipment during the logging procedures. There is evidence that using mechanized harvesting equipment could reduce the rate of “struck by” injuries. One study indicates that total injury claims could be reduced by 14.2%, while the “struck by” injuries could be reduced by 8.2%, when comparing the changes before and after the use of feller buncher. The significant decline in the number of “struck by” injuries after using the feller buncher in the logging companies supported the statement that using mechanized harvesting equipment could lessen overall injuries. The evidence also found that the rate of injuries in the logging companies without using feller bunchers had increased slightly throughout a period of time, increasing from 14.5% to 17.5%, in five years. In terms of trees fatality, areas with lower levels of mechanization in harvesting resulted in higher rate of trees fatality. For instance, in Eastern areas of the United States, research which compared the conventional and mechanized logging operations, indicated the number of injuries, when using the conventional approach, is three times greater than that of using the mechanized equipment such as a feller buncher. However, mechanized related injury could be raised accordingly, especially when performing machine maintenance or repair. These kinds of injuries could be serious and also costly.

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Stump Removal Near Me

How to get rid of tree stumps is one of the most frequently asked question in the industry. Once you have had a tree removed you are left with a typically unsightly reminder, the stump. Tree stumps are an eyesore, a tripping hazard, and they can attract unwanted pests like termites or even fungi and bacteria. If left to simply decay and rot away on its own, without any sort of treatment, a stump can take up to ten years to disappear. When it comes to rotting a tree stump in Utah, the rate of decay depends on many different factors such as species of tree, size of the tree, and the climate and weather conditions.

As your leading Utah arborist, we do stump grinding in the Utah and surrounding area, although due to the demand we do have to limit our grinding services and can only offer it to current tree service clients and not as a standalone service.

To remove a tree stump you can try to tackle the job yourself, although stump grinders are quite heavy and can be difficult to use at times. So how do you get rid of a tree stump then? What is the best way? Well, the answer is in the original suggestion of letting it rot away, but doing so quickly.

How To Get Rid Of A Tree Stump Fast?

The fastest way to remove a tree stump, with and without using a grinder, is the chemical method. By applying chemicals to holes drilled into the stump, you speed up the natural decay process and the remaining tree fibers and roots will break down much more quickly. It is considered one of the best ways to remove a tree stump from your yard. Here is how to use this method by following these steps.

DIY Steps To Rotting A Tree Stump From A Leading Arborist:

Begin on a dry day or after a number of dry days if possible. This way the tree stump will be looking for liquid and nutrients and will soak up the chemicals faster.

If you are capable, use a chainsaw to cut the remaining part of the tree as close to the ground as possible. By doing this the chemicals will have less material to eat through. Chainsaws can be dangerous though, so make sure you always use caution, wear steel-toed boots and eye protection.

Once the tree stump is as close to the ground as you can comfortably get it to go, drill a number of holes into the top of the stump and along the sides in a downward direction. The bigger the drill bit the better, and each of the holes should be a few inches deep.

After drilling the holes into the stump in different places, you will apply the chemicals that will break down the remaining wood. Utah does have strict legal restrictions about the kind of chemicals you can purchase for this sort of project. Ideally, you would want a commercial fertilizer that is high in nitrogen, since it will give you the fastest results, but cow manure is also effective. Another more natural alternative is Epsom salt. It is also a cost-effective solution as a 19lbs page starts at $10. It has similar dissolving properties to nitrogen but is a more organic approach. When you have chosen the chemical you will use, pack the holes with as much of it as you can.

Then soak the ground around the stump and wet the top and sides of the stump. After the stump is wet, cover it with a plastic tarp to trap the moisture around the stump. Moisture is ultimately what will help the chemicals break down the wood particles faster.
The next step is to apply mulch over the top of the plastic tarp. Organic mulch, like hay or tree bark, is best for this task as it will retain more moisture and help to keep the tarp in place.

You can use rocks and stones to weigh down the tarp further to help keep it in place, although this step is considered optional.
Once you have completed all of these steps, you are officially rotting a tree stump. This process is a speeding up of nature, and we all know that nature can take its time, so you should expect that it will take some time to work. How can you speed up the stump rot process even more? You can repeat the rotting steps periodically if you notice the mulch has grown dry.

How Much Does It Cost To Remove A Stump?

The overall cost for a stump removal is largely dependent on the method you choose to use. If you chose to do it yourself, it would be the cost of materials needed. Whereas, if you live in the nearby Utah area, with easy access to the stump, the average cost is about $6 per inch in diameter with $150-$200 minimum charge.

Looking To Remove a Tree Stump Quickly?

Ultimately, the quickest way to remove your tree stump and return your yard to a flat surface is the method of stump grinding. Although our grinding services are limited, if you are in need of a tree removal service in the Utah, area, or if you are looking to get some stumps removed don’t hesitate to contact the tree experts.

If you’re not a current or past tree client and have a stump you’d like removed, read more about stump rot and how to safely remove the tree stump yourself.

When your stump is ground, you can expect that there will be no masses of the stump left underground. The stump grindings, which are the wood shavings from the stump mixed with dirt, are left behind. You can use these grindings as mulch around your yard. Please remove the grindings prior to replanting any plants or trees in that area.

Stump Grinding FAQs

What is the average cost for stump grinding?

If you live in the nearby Utah Metro area with easy access to the stump, stump grinding cost averages about $6 per inch in diameter with a $150-$200 minimum. Anything that makes the stump harder to access and remove such as a fence or retaining wall or anything breakable such as a flagstone patio would increase the price from there. Also removing the stump grindings is almost always an additional charge.

Is It better to grind a stump or remove it?

There are many ways how to get rid of tree stumps, and there are advantages and disadvantages for either removing a stump or grinding it. For removing a stump the advantage is there is no stump grinding left behind. The disadvantages are that removing all but the smallest stumps usually requires large equipment such as a loader or excavator. In addition, it is usually pretty hard to find a place to dispose of them. For grinding a stump the advantages are that it can be done to almost any stump in any location or a reasonable fee and the disadvantages are that the grinding as usually left behind for the property owner to deal with.

Can you grind down a tree stump with a chainsaw?

There are stump grinders that attach to a chainsaws powerhead, but grinding a stump with a regular chainsaw would be exceptionally difficult as the chain would dull every time it hit even a small amount of dirt. It also sounds very dangerous.

Can I use ground up tree stump as mulch?

Yes, a ground-up tree stump makes an excellent mulch product.

How much does it cost to rent a stump grinder from Home Depot?
In the Utah Metro area $299 per day and $209 for 4 hours as of 3/20/19 to rent a grinder for stump removal in Utah, OR.

Does stump grinding kill roots?

No, in fact, the roots are sometimes spurred to grow more from the shock of having the tree removed and stump ground out.

Does tree removal include the stump?

The answer is almost always no. The removal of the stump in the ground is for an additional fee. Tree removal bids are very specific so any extra services such as stump grinding, wood removal, or tree removal permits are not included unless expressly stated.

Will tree stumps attract termites?

Yes, but not all termites will damage your home. It will take an exterminator to determine which kind you have should your stump become infested.

Can a tree grow back from a stump?

Depending on the type of tree they can grow back but this would not be a tree that you would want to keep as its structure would be compromised and thus it would be likely to fail and damage your property.

Contact the tree experts about stump removal in Utah

If you live in the Utah area and are looking to have a tree removed and are also interested in stump removal and grinding contact our nearby team of Utah stump grinding service professionals.

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Tree Cutting Service Near Me

A feller buncher is a type of harvester used in logging. It is a motorized vehicle with an attachment that can rapidly gather and cut a tree before felling it.

Some wheeled feller bunchers lack an articulated arm, and must drive close to a tree to grasp it.

In cut-to-length logging a harvester performs the tasks of a feller buncher and additionally does delimbing and bucking.

Components and Felling attachment

Types of felling heads

Disc Saw Head – It can provide a high speed of cutting when the head is pushed against the tree. Then, the clamp arms will hold the tree when the tree is almost completed cutting. It is able to cut and gather multiple trees in the felling head. The disc saw head with good ground speed could provide high production which allows it to keep more than one skidders working continuously.
Shear Blade Head – It is placed against the tree and the clamp arms will hold the tree firmly. Then, the blade will activate and start cutting the tree. Same as disc saw head, it can hold multiple trees before they are placed on the ground.
Chain Saw Head – The floppy head provides minimal control to place the trees on the ground. It might not suit to collect the cut trees or gather the cut stems in the felling head.

Productivity

Cost-effectiveness

Maintenance

Daily or Every 8 hours

Modern style Tigercat feller buncher. Commonly referred to as a tree cutter.

Lubrication

Fuel

Older style felling head that uses a bar and chain to cut trees instead of the more modern saw disk.

Engine coolant

Risk management approach

Safety

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Stump Grinding Near Me

WHAT IS STUMP GRINDING?

When providing a proposal for a tree removal, an arborists also evaluate the site for stump grinding. While having the stump ground is not always necessary, many people prefer to deal with the stump at the same time as having the tree removed. Stump grinding allows the property owner to use the area where the tree once stood for laying sod or planting a flower bed. The stump grinder also produces mulch that has many uses around the yard. Here are answers to some common questions we get about stump grinding.

HOW DEEP CAN THE STUMP GRINDER GO?

They generally grind four to six inches below grade (ground level). If deeper grinding is needed, it can be requested, although the price of stump grinding may increase. The depth to which a stump can be ground is subject to some limitations, however. The stump-grinding blade has a diameter of about 10 inches, and can only be maneuvered up and down within a specific range.
A tree that grew in shallow soil, such as over the limestone bedrock prevalent in the Dallas area, may not have six inches of grindable depth.

Other material near or around the tree may limit how deep the grinder can go. While the stump grinder is powerful, it is only designed to handle plant material, wood, and dirt. Take note of:

Fencing, concrete, brick, or rock around a stump (such as a tree ring)

Nearby trees that may have roots under the tree stump

Swimming pools, walkways, and patios that may prevent the grinder from reaching all of the root material

Lawn irrigation, sprinkler systems, tree lighting wiring, and buried hoses

We generally do not grind deep enough to risk interfering with properly-installed utility lines or buried cables, but unforeseen obstacles can be encountered that necessitate a shallower grind.

What exactly lies beneath the roots of a tree or the surrounding soil may be a mystery, even to the homeowner. While we are very careful when grinding a stump, we will not take responsible for damage to irrigation lines or other items located below ground that we are not aware of. It is important to inform your arborist of any sprinkler systems or other objects that might be in the area to be ground before the work begins.

WHAT IS LEFT AFTER A STUMP IS GROUND?

As the blade grinds the stump and surface roots, it produces a mulch made up of tree material and dirt. The mulch produced by stump grinding can take up a much greater volume than the original stump. (It can be helpful to think of the difference between a block of cheese and that same cheese after it is grated.)

Mulch from stump grinding is valuable organic material that decomposes more quickly than many other kinds of mulch, as there are generally smaller wood particles present, and more soil to help it break down. It is our standard practice to push the mulch back into the area that has been ground (“backfilling”). Even so, there is usually a large pile of mulch left above ground, often much more than the tree owner expected. Because of its composition, the mulch does settle fairly quickly, but many people prefer to use the mulch around their yards, rather than leaving it where the stump once was.

Stump grinder mulch can be used for composting or applied in flower beds. (Depending on exact composition of the mulch, it may not perform in the same way as typical hardwood mulch, and may need to be replaced sooner.) After some time, when the mulch has settled, it can be packed into the ground-out area, making the area ready to be prepped for laying sod or for planting a flower bed or other small plants. If requested, we can provide mulch bagging and/or bagged mulch haul-off as an additional service after stump grinding, but our standard practice is to leave all grinder mulch on-site.

WILL THE TREE COME BACK AFTER A STUMP IS GROUND?

Even with stump grinding, some species of tree can still send up shoots and new growth from the roots left below ground. Crape myrtles, chinaberry trees, hackberries, and Bradford pears are some common species in the area that can be very persistent in growing back. The sprouts that return after stump grinding can be trimmed or mown down and will eventually stop coming back, as the remaining roots use up their energy reserves. Commercially-available woody stem killer can be used to accelerate the dieback of the roots. White vinegar can also be used as an organic alternative to commercial root killer.

CAN I REPLANT AFTER A STUMP IS GROUND?

We are often contacted about removing a tree that the owner would like to replace. We do not recommend trying to re-plant trees in the same area where a tree was removed and the stump ground. Even with a deep grind, an extensive root system remains underground. The old root system can interfere with the new tree’s attempts to become established. Furthermore, if the old tree had a disease, that disease may still be present in the remaining root tissue, and can be transmitted to the new tree. When replanting is desired, we can discuss finding a location that is far enough from the removed tree to lessen the likelihood of interference from the old root system. If homeowners’ association or municipal restrictions require a tree to be replaced in a certain location, excavation or hand digging may be the only options.

CAN EVERY STUMP BE GROUND?

In the case of a tree becoming uprooted (because of storm damage or root rot, for example), the stump cannot be dealt with as easily. If there is a large amount of root material above ground, the stump grinder may be physically unable to reach it. Depending on the type of tree and how it grew, it may pull up a great deal of dirt, turf grass, and other underground material when it falls. What is left after grinding an uprooted stump may be more dirt than tree matter, and may not be suitable for use as mulch.

Weather is also a factor that can determine how and when stump grinding can be performed. A long period of rain can cause the soil to become waterlogged. Operating a stump grinder in heavy, wet soil can not only make a bigger mess than usual, but can damage the surrounding area due to the weight of the machine. It may be necessary to wait until the area dries out before attempting even a “standard” stump grind.

If a customer has a special circumstance, like an uprooted tree, or there are multiple stumps in one area to be ground, we always send an arborist to assess the situation before providing a quote or scheduling the stump grinder.

HOW MUCH DOES STUMP GRINDING COST?

The cost of stump grinding is dependent upon three main factors: the size of the stump, the location of the stump, and how deep the grinder needs to go. While we generally provide a stump grinding price when we give a quote for tree removal, we are also happy to evaluate any other stumps you may want to have ground.

HOW DO I MEASURE A STUMP?

The base cost for stump grinding is determined by the diameter of the stump in inches, including any above-ground roots. This measurement can be taken before or after a tree is removed. To get the right measurement, it is important to go “from dirt to dirt.” This means measuring from the stump edge or root point (where it touches the dirt) farthest from the trunk to the opposite edge or root point. It is also important to measure from different directions and to take an average measurement, as this most accurately reflects the area to be ground. The “dirt-to-dirt” measurement can be quite a bit larger than the diameter of the tree trunk, and we do see situations where the stump grinding is more costly than removing the above-ground tree.
This is a 75-inch stump, measured “dirt to dirt” at the yellow line. Measuring on the trunk is inaccurate: if this tree were measured at the red line, the result would only be 37 inches, which is not the actual area to be ground. Even after a tree is cut down, properly measuring a stump can be tricky when there is a root flare and surrounding vegetation.

CAN THE STUMP GRINDER REACH MY STUMP?

Our standard stump grinder is a machine that is seven feet long and three feet wide. At the front is a rounded blade (similar to the tip of a chainsaw) that chips away wood as it moves across the stump. The stump grinder is designed to fit through standard gates, but some older or narrow gates may not be able to accommodate it. The weight of the machine may also prevent it from reaching certain areas without damaging walkways or ground cover. While the grinding blade has some maneuverability, clearance of at least seven feet on one side of the stump is required to allow the grinder to access the area to be ground. In smaller areas with less clearance, it is possible to use our smaller stump grinder, but this can increase the time and cost of the procedure.

CAN I JUST LEAVE THE STUMP?

It is not necessary to grind or otherwise remove a stump after a tree is taken down. We have customers who request a tree not be cut all the way to ground level, and use the remaining stump as a plant stand, table base, or just a yard feature. Even if the stump is cut close to the ground, it can last several years. Preservative coatings can also be applied to prolong the life of a standing stump.

Some homeowners prefer to let a stump decompose naturally over time. Old stumps can become habitats for fungi, insects, and other creatures. As the stump breaks down, it can become rich organic material that can be added to compost or used in planting. If a stump is left unground, however, it can continue to send out new growth for years after the tree has been removed. Drilling holes in the stump and filling with Epsom salt or using commercial stump killer can accelerate stump dieback, but those chemicals can be toxic to surrounding plant life. Treating the stump with chemicals can also make the area hazardous to people and pets.

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